Help me save this Tekna Dive Light, opinions wanted

A friend gave my this spotlight after I told him I was getting into flashlights. He bought it for $2.00 at a thrift shop because hes a diver and knows the Tekna brand. This was before the reflector disintegrated, I'm assuming the damage was from the gases let off by the batteries.

Id like to know if anyone has any ideas about restoring the mirror finish on a reflector. Right now I'm considering 2 options

1. ChromeBrite chrome tape used in Lightsword's giant 24" reflector but I would prefer something more refined.

2. Vacuum deposition? not sure much about this but it seems this is what the pros use? Is there anywhere where I could get away with this method at a reasonable cost?



Also I'd like some ideas about how to lightly hotwire this light. It has a thickish plastic reflector and lens, PR base and 4 individual D cells in series. Right now I'm running a magnum star 3 cell xenon but I'd like to steal as many lumens out of this thing as I can.

Thanks in advance for any advice

-Nick

-Cool

WOW those pictures are "larger than life"

:welcome:

Looks like salt water damage to me.

How big is this reflector? About 4"?

Please take a photo of the back, showing the bulb mount, as I have a couple of spares I can part with, if the size matches.

As for hotwiring, I'd need to see a photo of how the batteries are connected before I could answer that.

The inner plastic piece threads down into the reflector and pins the bulb in place


The 4 D cells are connected in series via jumpers


The Reflector size is 5" from inner edge to inner edge

I know it's not quite the answer you're looking for but I've successfully resurfaced an automotive headlight reflector that I couldn't find a replacement for (for a roadworthy) using White Knight's Super Chrome aerosol paint :thumbsup:

This is exactly the type of ideas I am looking for. Could you explain the surface prep and any tips for application? Do you have any beamshots or idea of the percentage of light output compared to a stock reflector?

Is that really a "dive" model Tekna?

Yes I am positive it is. The housing is completely sealed except for the lens/bezel which screws on with an o-ring. The trigger button moves a magnet which penetrates through the plastic and activates a switch sealed in the housing. I have read on CPF about other similar lights with molded lead ballast weights that fit into the housing.

I am open water certified but I don't plan to use this as a dive light, more as a goto when someone comes to the house unannounced late at night

Illuminatus said:

This is exactly the type of ideas I am looking for. Could you explain the surface prep and any tips for application? Do you have any beamshots or idea of the percentage of light output compared to a stock reflector?

Click to expand...

Surface prep was the same for any paint job... free it from oils/particles IIRC just a warm soapy wash with a decent rinse, the paint I used (as mentioned previously) covered both the faded & non impaired sections of the reflector evenly, the output was down on standard but well above the minimum permissible for an automotive headlight, I suppose in a way it was like giving the reflector a "mild stippling effect" :thumbsup:

I'm sorry I can't tell you more (or provide photos) but this was all conducted over 5 years ago and the vehicle has since changed hands

I once looked into Vacuum Metalizing for the reflectors on some classic chrome flashlights, but gave up, realizing that there were definitely going to be some hefty minimum charges involved. I too have wondered what the results of spray chrome would look like.

As for the hotwire, sticking with your D cell configuration in either alkalines or ni-cads, I would suggest either of the following.

-The 5.0 volt 7.5 watt Ikelite 0042.55, available at dive-shops everywhere for $8. It's supposedly very white, and made by Carley.

-The 3.85 volt 1.32 amp KPR-139, which when overdriven to 4.8 volts would be about 7.25 watts. These are available online for $1.99 each, and are sold at some lighting supply warehouses.

BTW Since you're just getting started in CPF, I thought I would clarify that when placed under the electrical load created by a bulb, both alkalines and ni-cads (and Ni-MH for that matter) will be putting out a very similar figure of around 1.2 volts per cell; hence the 4.8 volt figure referenced above. The money I could have saved not feeding batteries into my "ghettoblaster", had I known this in middle school.