Are the aluminum EN Aleph Mule McClickie sets still available? If so, whats the pricing?
Are the aluminum EN Aleph Mule McClickie sets still available? If so, whats the pricing?
EDC: HDS Ra Clicky T SN7156 (100L WWGD) or Lunasol 20 (I can't choose between the two)
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Below are a few pics of minerals from around the world, taken using Don's Nichia LE:
Hydroxy Herderite from Pakistan (crystal) - LW photo (Nichia LED)
Sodalite from Greenland (animated, switching between natural lighting and LW UV)
Sphalerite from Langban, Sweden (again - switching between natural lighting and LW)
This is really cool, especially the second pic glowing orange
Dear Mcgizmo,do you have uv led (nscu033b or a) adapted in torch flashlight? and what is the price?
ps. really good work.
I tried searching and couldn't find a concrete answer, but does the UV light engine fit the aluminum Aleph Mule heads? I've read that the titanium Mule heads are identical to the aluminum ones, but I just wanted to be sure since I've read in other threads that some LE don't fit certain heads.
Question to McGizmo:
Will the XR-U UV light head fit/work with the McGizmo 2x CR123 battery tubes to extend output times? Also, would it work with a 2x AA McGizmo battery tube?
We're looking to outfit up with these for use in some expeditions to some remote locals, so battery versatility and maximizing run times is of some concern.
I work with two converters, one is a 3V based and the other a 6V based. The 3V converter will work with either the 1x123 pak or 2xAA pak. The 6V converter is for use in the 2x123 pak. Maximum runtime I would assume could be enjoyed with the 6V converter and the 2x123 pak although I would imagine using a good set of 2xAA and the 3V converter would not be too far off. The XR-U UV head can be host to either the 3V converter (3V UV Light Engine) or the 6V converter (6V UV Light Engine). If you are in remote locations that do have sunshine, you might want to consider the 3V and 2xAA battery tube and one of the solar chargers that will charge the AA cells.
Dear flashaholics ,
During last winter (2010/2011) I modified a dive torch (Underwater Kinetics UK Sunlight C4 eLED) with two Nichia NCSU033B ultraviolet LEDs (see http://picasaweb.google.com/ostbey/H...letDivingLamp2), which I ordered directly through Nichia's inquiries page at https://www.nichia.co.jp/en/contact/inquiries.html, via their branch in the Netherlands (where I currently live). I paid €81.82 a piece, plus €31 import tax.
My charge number was AA5059-UaP7M. This means (see NCSU033B specs):
AA=produced October 2010, Ua=365nm, P7=270-310mW, M=3.6-4.0V.
Recently I was finally able to test this torch under water in Hurghada/Egypt (Red Sea) in order to experience bio-fluorescence (which is what this project is all about).
You can find my results here: https://picasaweb.google.com/1061999...3/Hurghada2011
Or see here (more choice of video resolutions but no pictures): http://www.youtube.com/user/ostbey
My camera is a Nikon Coolpix P300 with Ikelite underwater housing.
I only had three days with this camera under water, so please bear with me and the low quality...
Moreover, it seems that the torch is not powerful enough yet (the electrical power is 6W, the radiant flux according to the specs for a P7 at 700mA should on average be around 816 mW for the two LEDs together, or between 756 mW and 868 mW) for the autofocus to work properly.
In the meantime I have found manufacturers of commercially available torches for underwater bio-fluorescence (electrical power in parentheses):
http://www.nightsea.com/bw-1_sp.htm - NightSea BW-1 Blue/White Dive Light (3W)
http://www.nightsea.com/uklc.htm - Filters for UK Light Cannon (10W)
http://www.nightsea.com/bluestar_sp.htm - BlueStar Light (1W)
http://www.dyron.fr/page_article.php...age&language=2 (6x4=24W/12x4=48W, or 75W/130W halogen-equivalent)
http://www.hartenberger.de/hartenber...chnik/001.html (mini compact LCD: 7x3.5W=28W, 21x2.5W=50W; maxi compact LCD: 7x3.5W=28W, 21x3W=60W)
All these lamps use blue LEDs instead of UV LEDs, with peak wavelengths around 450 nm.
Allegedly, UV does not excite the red fluorescing proteins (http://www.bild-der-wissenschaft.de/...ct_id=32128252 "Dummerweise regt UV aber nicht die Rot-Fluoreszenz an").
I personally suspect that it is also a question of safety (blue light is safer to handle than UV) and price (blue LEDs are probably cheaper - for a given desired output - than UV LEDs).
The Hartenberger fluorescent lamps are also used by Prof. Nico Michiels of the University of Tübingen for his research.
Prof. Horst Grunz has built his own based on equipment from TillyTec.
TillyTec also offers a UV lamp head with a single UV LED and a halogen-equivalent power of 10W.
You might also be interested in the videos (of much better quality than mine) by other people:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnL1xTKQjNw (10:06) (Prof. Horst Grunz)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nLMAyYHNeeQ (9:08) (Prof. Horst Grunz)
http://www.leddivelight.com/biofluor...-grand-cayman/ (7:17) or
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AjPjiYyia_Q (7:17) (DrDichro)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGWcoM7Apyc (5:24) (Prof. Horst Grunz)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9GfctqCGKE (4:16) (Prof. Horst Grunz)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHVI9vhgkXc (2:55) (diveclubaquanauts)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78de8IoRY0M (2:31) (BBC)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbXgG37vlYw (2:20) (aquanautsgrenada)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZueVxQ-tIYU (1:59) (DrDichro)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meczKORhpmo (1:20) (DrDichro)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2KXbOPxH5I (0:25) (DrDichro)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oD4Z4RC_isc (0:25) (DrDichro)
Recently I also discovered a French online magazine with an article about bio-fluorescence diving:
http://www.plongeur.com/magazine/telechargement/ (Télécharger le numéro #1)
pages 55-58 of 62 (page numbers according to Adobe Reader), or pages 108-115 (page numbers at the bottom of each page)
There are also some very nice bio-fluorescence pictures in issue #57 of Underwater Photography Magazine (but see also http://ejlabs.net/tmp/UwP57.pdf) on pages 56-59.
Or see the author's web page at https://picasaweb.google.com/1112514...ljskaJamaUV02#
Last edited by LarsB; 09-22-2011 at 07:55 AM.
Quite an information and example rich post there! I find UV light facinating as it is light that we can't see but energy none the less. Some critters do see it and exploit this. It's fascinating to see how minerals and life forms will fluoresce under UV or near UV light in the absence of other light. I assume this is not something that critters and creatures can exploit since UV light does not occur in nature by itself; at least to my knowledge. I have yet to take a UV light underwater and I do have some reservations in doing so. I have read where some dive lights have UV blocking filters in consideration of potentially harming sea life and I wonder if there is some danger in subjecting the reef to strong UV sources? Clearly blue light is present at any depths that sunlight penetrates but I wonder what the presence of shorter wave length light is.
thanks a lot for your kind reply!
On the contrary, it appears that corals use fluorescence to convert available UV and blue light into visible light, at greater depths where UV and blue light is the only light left (since all longer wavelengths are filtered out by water), in order to feed their symbiontic algae, which allows them to thrive at greater depths than corals without fluorescence can.
So in fact UV light is essential to their survival!
It also appears that fish use fluorescence for intra-species communication, at least at short distances, and for camouflage, when they live between fluorescent corals (since non-fluorescent fish would sharply contrast with fluorescent corals in the background, making them an easy prey).
It also appears that the energy delivered by UV lights is much lower than that originating from natural sunlight.
Artificial UV light should therefore not harm any marine life.
Moreover, the commercially available fluorescent diving lights are all blue, not UV.
And the HID lights used by thousands of underwater photographers emit a large amount of UV anyway, so much so that the most common UV lights for diving are simply HID lights equipped with an additional dichroic UV filter in front of their lens.
See also the threads Dive Blacklight (UV Light)? ("Has anybody seen an underwater blacklight (ultraviolet light) for sale? I know many corals and things are fluorescent so I was wondering if a uv light would make them glow with strange colors -especially on a night dive. Any ideas?"), UV Night Dive?? ("I've seen a few posts about UV night dives but have yet to see any details. Are they offered through dive shops? Is it something that you do on your own. It looks like a VERY cool dive. Any info you guys have is greatly appreciated."), UltraViolet light... ("Does anyone have any experience with an underwater UV light? Especially in making one from UV LED's. I've made some regular LED lights with white light and red LED's but some folks have talked about using UV to make the colors pop with corals, etc. But would UV damage coral??"), and Biofluorescent fun with your HID light.
Last edited by LarsB; 09-23-2011 at 03:58 AM.
Thanks for the insight. I have a reasonable idea of what happens with the visible spectrum of light as you you leave the surface and go down in depth but no good feel for what happens with the invisible sides of the spectrum. With ambient light present, I don't perceive the fluorescence of coral and I suppose falsely assume that the ambient UV was therefore not significant or strong enough to generate any fluorescence. I guess the acuity or sensitivity of other critters is different than mine.
I recently purchased an IR converted digital camera and put together a UW system with the camera and a couple IR flashlights. I hope to use this at night to capture images of nesting turtles and hatchlings if the opportunity arises. I took the camera underwater yesterday in day time to see what the shallow reef and critters looked like when viewed through a filter passing the IR spectrum. In particular, there is a black frogfish which has been a very difficult subject to photograph as the camera simply doesn't gather reflected light from this "black hole". Its skin is non-reflective in the red and IR spectrum as well. I wonder if it reflects UV light or possibly even fluoresces. I suspect it simply absorbs all light. If my spectrometer were submersible, it would be interesting to record the noon day suns spectrum at the surface and then watch the spectrum change as the sampling port were lowered into the depths. But I digress .........
I wonder if one could construct a box of glass that only allowed UV light passage with a camera or viewing port on top and the bottom open if you could place this over a portion of reef and view the florescence using ambient light as the source of UV? I would think so.
So despite our sensitivity for certain wavelengths possibly being very different from that of marine life, in some cases ambient light does not prevent the detection of biofluorescence with the naked human eye.
However, I wonder how far your IR light will actually shine under water, since water absorbs longer wavelengths first, I imagine that IR having a longer wavelength than red, which is the human-visible colour filtered out first, IR must be heavily affected as well, and travel only for very short distances in water.
Maybe some of the black you saw is due to that?!
Consider how even street light at night illuminates the interior of a completely dark house in such a way that you can usually move around in it quite easily - and humans do not even have the best night vision of the animal kingdom!
What I want to say is that backscattered light travels very far and illuminates even quite hidden hooks in a house.
Now imagine what backscatter light must do in bright daylight!
And also consider how faint the fluorescent light is, as you can see in my videos.
I believe that you don't have a chance to observe biofluorescence under the conditions you described.
And even if it worked, it would completely destroy the magic of these neon signs in the dark which are these fluorescing marine organisms, at night, under water!
You would lose the most beautiful and enchanting part of it all!
See http://guest.engelschall.com/~sb/fluo-diving/ for a most comprehensive collection of information about fluorescent night dives, which will be kept up to date as more information becomes available.
Last edited by LarsB; 01-17-2013 at 01:05 AM.
Can you provide more information on the uv led to be used in the Sapphire ? Is the converter and drive level the same as the sapphire 25 ? Is eye protection highly recommended like the current 365nm offerings ?
I really like the sapphire form factor, and I'm always interested in different led options.
Last edited by ibcj; 09-29-2011 at 05:13 PM.
nystrpr and others,
I do have an addition now to the 365 nm offerings and it is with a Sapphire version which uses a Nichia 5 mm 365 nm UV LED. (Part number NSHU591B) these are rank 4 which means they put out between 1890-2670 uW of power driven at 25 mA. THese UV sapphire light are no where near as powerful as the high power UV LED's used in the other lights this thread addresses. However these are not a cheap 5 mm UV LED as is typically found in the small UV flashlights. Most 5 mm UV LED's are not as low as the 365 nm and they are packaged in an epoxy envelope which can degrade rather quickly because of the UV being generated. The Sapphire UV light engine:
The LED consists of a metal can hosting the UV die and there is a quartz lens capping off the can and providing for a tight collimated beam. The can is positive for some reason so I use two small metric EPDM o-rings to both center and isolate the can from the negative ground flashlight head.
I think this light has merit if one wants to check for the hidden strips in bills, the hidden markings on drivers licenses, credit cards, passports and what have you. You can also look for pet and other stains with this light but you will require very low ambient light in many instances. This is not a tool for curing Norland adhesives! I made a simple gif showing how this light can pick up all three dyes used on the CA drivers license. These will not fluoresce with the typical 385 nm UV LEDs.
The image is a bit overexposed and the CA bear is yellow to the naked eye but the ground beneath it is green. There is a red rectangular border. The strips on bills is the most difficult to flouresce and you do need to do it in a low lit setting. Perhaps they do better with a higher wave length?!?
At any rate, I did purchase some of these UV LED's and do offer a Sapphire UV light now as a result. The price on the UV Sapphire is $165 plus postage.
I would add that there is a visible violet light in the beam so you can tell if the light is on and you do get an idea of the area it is covering.
In response to an e-mail I want to post here as well that these UV offerings are still open. I am now using the 033B Nichia UV LED which is essentially the same as the 033A but with greater light output.
Are the UV Sapphire still available?
Will this run on AAA eneloops NiMh?
Last edited by Benchiew; 08-20-2012 at 10:10 AM.
I have since seen other threads that some of your other customers using the eneloop with much success.
I understand that the difference between the Sapphire and the GS model is in the emitter it uses, one a 3mm and the other a 5mm. Since the Nichia UV is a 5mm, i presume that you will need to use the Sapphire GS as a host since it accommodates a 5mm emitter. Is my line of thought flawed?
Also, does the UV model come with a split ring?
Orders and email sent.
Shipment notification received.
Paypal payments sent. Thanks.
Last edited by Benchiew; 08-22-2012 at 08:16 AM.
The Sapphire is my favorite 1xAAA light ever. It doesn't try to be super-powerful, which is good because of its limited power source. It just produces a little light for a long time, and it's easy to upgrade.
I have a specific need for a 365nm light at work and I'd like to know it you (or anyone else) would you be able to take an output measurement at 15 inches from the lens of the Haiku? a visible light measurement at the same distance would also be appreciated as I have to answer to very stringent standards.
Shiny things specialist.