The best hosts deserve the best upgrades. Presenting for your consideration, custom made upgrades for Surefire lights.
Just pick out what you want and head to our Ordering section to complete your purchase
Want to order from multiple threads, just pick your favorite and paste all the lines into a single post
A CPF community production: engineering by Moddoo, testing by Sgt. LED
Status: Bezel tools are ready to ship!
Bezel Ring Tool (install/remove)
Laser cut delrin, suitable for installing and removing bezel rings on all Z44 for a G series Surefire bezels. We guarantee our tool won't break or shear during even prolonged use. Available in 3/8 inch socket and vice mount configurations
Please click an image to configure
Switch Upgrade Kit (zero resistance twisty)
Solid brass conductor with no springs or other components to slow down (resist) the flow of electricity
press some for momentary, twist for constant on, untwist to lock out
uses factory twisty parts (also available). compatible with P, C, Z, and G series twisty tailcaps
brass, 17 grams
Please click an image to configure
Switch Upgrade Kit (forward clicky)
McClicky switch mechanism and solid brass retainer ring, with large torquing slots
press some for momentary, press completely to lock on/off, untwist to lock out
includes ring, switch, and boot. compatible with P, C, Z, and G series twisty tailcaps
brass, silicon, plastic, and steel, 12 grams (4 grams more than twsity).
Click to view
comparison between Z41/twisty, Z41/clicky, and Z59 (factory clicky)
Please click an image to configure
Surefire G series shells, in all 4 factory colors
available only with purchase of switch kit
for use with all G series lights, available in black, yellow, green, and tan
includes installation of switch kit with first boot color choice
Nitrolon, 5 grams
Please follow these steps:
1) Click image(s) above
2) Configure as desired from Options pop up menus
3) Click Add to Basket
4) Click View Basket
5) Select shipping
6) Check out
- No account required
- Special orders available, PM for a quote
- 30 day satisfaction guarantee (refund/replacement, less shipping)
Installation can be accomplished with hand tools and a bit of time. That said, this is strictly at your own risk, do not attempt without the proper tools and abilities. This guide shows two ways (in two colors) to disassemble your twisty tailcap, and then how to put your new clicky tailcap together. Its helpful to read through and familiarize yourself with all the steps, then return to the beginning to do each step. Important notes are in red.
This is the rivet that holds the aluminum disk onto the button under the boot. There are two ways to remove it, shown here as options 1A + 2A
-or- 1B + 2B
. Select the method that works best for your tools, abilities, and patience. There is a third method which leaves less damage, but requires custom tooling. Special note: if you look through the spring and see a hex/allen head, you have an older style that is easier to disassemble. Remove the spring (step 1B) and then simply unscrew it!
Place your Z41 on a clean, non marring surface. This can be wood, plastic or even an open phone book.
Then position a flat headed punch in the exact center of the old boot. 3/32" (~2mm) is best. No bigger!
Strike the punch with a small hammer until the metal assembly drops out, 2-3 times should do it.
This leaves everything in perfect condition, except the boot. It will be scared and possibly torn/punctured.
Place a small flat headed screwdriver into the side of the spring. Then rotate your tailcap so as to force the driver into the lower coils. As you go, stop rotation long enough to try levering the driver. Continue to turn and lever, until the spring pops out.
While bracing the tailcap, use a strong pair of narrow pliers to secure and then pull on the aluminum disk inside. This may require considerable force, potentially damaging both the aluminum disk and gasket. Baking (or boil in a cooking/freezer grade bag) your tailcap for 10-20 minutes (2-300 degrees) may soften the plastic that is holding the rivet. Let it cool before handling!
Once the metal is out of the way, what remains is a plastic nut/disk. This is usually held in place with adhesive. Baking (or boil in a cooking/freezer grade bag) your tailcap for 10-20 minutes (2-300 degrees) may weaken the adhesive enough to make it easier to break loose.
Insert needle type pliers into the slot and hold them pressed both down and outward, toward the ends/outside of the slots. Then turn (unscrew) the disk. This may require considerable force, depending on how secure it is. About a third of all tailcaps cannot be rotated without baking, even with special tools. Let it cool before handling!
Consider cleaning your tailcap (especially inside) before proceeding. If using soap/water, let it dry.
Place the new boot (taller and with a smaller flange) inside the empty tailcap.
Using your finger, press it up through the hole and check for even/square installation.
With the switch already inside the brass ring, hold/pinch the spring with your thumb and first finger. Gently square the assembly inside the larger tailcap opening, locating the threads. Spin the tailcap with your other hand, starting the threads. Continue spinning/tightening the tailcap until your fingers are well inside the tailcap.
Insert long/narrow pliers into the torque slots of the brass disk. Hold the pliers in such a way as to apply outward pressure on the handles, then begin to tighten the assembly into place. As you finish, check the boot again for proper alignment (centered etc.). Then tighten down the disk the rest of the way. When ready, release pressure on the pliers before pulling them out.
- Consider doing a bit of testing before doing your final big tighten.
Check for switch function, and that the boot is snug, but not stretched against the McClicky.
To tight (the fit, not the disk) and it will activate to easily. To much slack and it will lag before activating.
Fit can be tailored by changing the height of the 'nub' on the underside/center of the boot.
- Wipe off the tail end of your SF body before the first installation, this will leave the brass shiny and improve connectivity.
Bezel Ring/Lens Installation
Installation/removal can be accomplished using the tools shown below. Use the Socket Only configuration for general/light torque use (tool > hand), shown here as options 1A + 2A + 3A and the Vice configuration when heavy torque is needed (tool > tool), shown as 1B + 2B + 3B. Its helpful to read through and familiarize yourself with all the steps, then return to the beginning to do each step. Important notes are in red.
Step 1A - Socket Method
The Socket method requires our Socket kit and a 3/8 inch socket wrench (not supplied) or similar tool.
1/4 to 3/8 or 1/2 to 3/8 adaptors may also be used, but require special care.
Step 2A - Socket Method
Begin by installing the included bumper onto your wrench, about half an inch from the end. Then add the tool to the wrench, stopping as the tool reaches the bumper. The goal is for the tool to be well seated on the wrench, but not so far that the wrench pushes through the OR label. You want to keep the wrench from pressing directly against your lens/window.
Step 3A - Socket Method
When ready, secure your bezel with one hand and with your other hand, place the label side of the bezel tool into the top of the bezel. Ensure that the teeth of the bezel tool are correctly engaged with the notches in the bezel ring. Configure your wrench for correct direction and loosen or tighten bezel ring as needed.
Step 1B - Vice Method
The Vice method requires our Vice kit and any standard bench or table vice (not supplied) or similar tool.
Begin by inserting the included bumper onto the included vice adaptor, about half an inch from one end. Then insert the bezel tool on top of the bumper, on the vice adaptor, stopping as it reaches the bumper. The goal is for the bezel tool to be well seated on the vice adaptor, but not so far that the adaptor pushes through the OR label. You want to keep the vice adaptor from pressing directly against your lens/window.
Step 2B - Vice Method
Next, decide how you want to place the kit into your vice. It works fine flat across, but is easier to align when placed into diagonal notches (if your vice is so equipped). Tighten the vice jaws enough to hold the kit, then double check the arrangement. You want the bumper sitting on top of the vice jaws and the tool sitting on the bumper. You want enough of the vice adaptor inside the bezel tool, but not so that its pressing the OR label against your lens/window. Fully insert the kit, tighten the vice jaws, and you're ready to go.
Step 3B - Vice Method
When ready, place the top of your bezel down onto the label side of the bezel tool. Use only your hands when possible. When hand strength is not enough, extra tools are required. Start by laying (think: blanket) the included 4mil plastic bag over the hex portion of your bezel. Then place an adjustable/crecent wrench (10" or larger - not included) over the bag and engage 2 of the hex sides. This can be done before putting the bezel onto the bezel removal tool.
With the wrench on the bezel and the bezel on the tool and the tool in the vice, you can apply more than enough torque to loosen the most stubborn of bezel rings (without heat) AND install new bezel rings with enough torque that adhesives are seldom needed. But be careful not to apply more torque than is needed (especially while tightening). When you feel it stop, you've gone far enough!
Once you have control of the bezel ring, its simply a matter of arranging the correct bezel ring, lens, and O ring in the correct sequence. When installing a factory bezel ring and a factory or custom lens, use the thinner/flat factory O ring. When installing a custom bezel ring and a factory or custom lens, a thicker, properly fitting O ring is recommend for a good seal. All Oveready bezel rings ship with a custom/thick O ring, suited for this purpose.
In all cases, place the O ring in first, onto the lens shelf, then the lens, then the bezel ring. As with all threaded connections, make sure the threads joining the bezel ring to the bezel are aligned before applying torque. With both the Socket and Vice setups, you should be able to get the bezel ring most of the way on before feeling it 'get tight'. If it resists at the beginning or any where along the way, back up and try again.
Take your time finishing up. Inspect the head of the bezel and continue until you are comfortable that everything is seated correctly and securely. Equipped with your own tool, you can now take apart and put back together as many bezels, as many times as you like.
- Our bezel tool is well suited for most 6 notched bezel rings, including custom crenelated rings.
It is not compatible with 5 notched bezel rings, including the factory crenelated rings found on the 6PD.
Please reply or PM with any questions