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I have failed (a McLux)

ExMB

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Mar 25, 2003
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66
Everything was going OK, not pretty, but I think it would have worked.
I was soldering the last connection to the converter board, at the capacitor, and soldered it right off /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif

I need /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/help.gif

Will some kind, skilled soul put this thing together for me?

Just let me know what you require.

I believe the anode and cathode assembly are salvageable, but some wires may need to be replaced.

The LED is already set.

I'm going to go /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mecry.gif
 

dat2zip

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You're doing fine. I know how tough some projects can be.

In this case, keep going and leave the cap off. Since the battery connection is short (very short), you will not need the input capacitor.

Keep going. Sounds like you are almost finished. I think you will get it done.

Wayne

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

ExMB

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Mar 25, 2003
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Thanks for the encouragement, but I'm confused.

The capacitor, at C5, when I touched it w/ the iron moved, I would have thought the board ruined.

Are you saying I can just pop it off, solder the red wire to where it was located and have it (BB 400) work?
 

dat2zip

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OK, Now I'm confused. If it's a BB400, the capacitor is C1 and if you think it moved a little you can ohm across it to make sure it is not shorted. If there is no short, leave it. Otherwise, C1 can be removed without any detrimental side effects.

NOTE: EVERYONE ELSE... This only applies if the battery connection is less than 2".... Outside on the bench, C1 is Manditory.

So, if it is C1 you may have moved it and it that is OK, as long as it still makes connection and it hasn't moved in such a way that shorts VIN to GND. If in doubt, you can heat it up and remove it.

Wayne
 

ExMB

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Mar 25, 2003
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Yes, C1, my mistake.

It moved a fair amount.
I will remove it and give it another shot.

Thanks for the advice.
 

ExMB

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Mar 25, 2003
Messages
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No progress. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

I removed the capacitor, I tried soldering power wire in to each post beneath, no luck with either, does it need to contact both?

I can't see where anything is grounding out on the board.

The wires are getting pretty mangled from assembly, disassembly, does anybody know of a source, that might be local, for 26 AWG?

If anybody has any trouble shooting advice I would appreciate it, otherwise I guess I need to try a new board
 

dat2zip

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Ex,

Where are you located? If you are in the western US, I'd be glad to give you a phone call and talk to you about what you have done. This would be more preferable than exchanging posts here on CPF or via email.

The red wire should only contact the one side of C1.

How are you testing the board? If you have a power supply that is great. Otherwise a 2AA or 2 cell battery holder with wires attached can be used as a power source to test the board before putting it all together.

Also, the output must always be connected if you apply power. Otherwise, the IC blows if you apply power without the Luxeon connected.

I've posted some lines to images in the other thread. Please have a look at those.

Wayne
 

ExMB

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Mar 25, 2003
Messages
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[ QUOTE ]
dat2zip said:
Also, the output must always be connected if you apply power. Otherwise, the IC blows if you apply power without the Luxeon connected.

Wayne

[/ QUOTE ]

Oh, whoops.
I have already done that a few times.
This being the case the board is definetly blown, after the first solder incident I didn't want to solder in the head until I was sure things worked.

I really appretiate the offer Wayne, I will email you my number, I am on the east coast, but reply with yours, I don't want you paying for the bill.

On the brighter side, I think I'l upgrade to a BB500. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif
 

Rothrandir

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sorry, an off topic but quick question...

what kind of rtv should the board be sealed in?
 

ExMB

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Mar 25, 2003
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Lest anyone read this and think its difficult, don't use me as an example. I am ham fisted, and knew enough about electricity to get through the EIT, less now.

I think I've solder twice before and it was 18 AWG.

I did do a good job of centering and adhering the LED if I do say so myself
 

dat2zip

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Roth,

You can use almost any RTV goop, shoe goo. The best would be thermal RTV which at the moment I can't recall the brand or model.
 

Rothrandir

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hmm...

i was at several stores, and found a couple types of trv silicone, but wasn't sure if that's what was suggested...
 
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