2 headed M*g 3 x MCE and 1 x P60 dropin FINISHED :-)

[The Dane]

This post got my brain farting like it has been on baked beans for a week

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...99&postcount=6

(Why cant i get this to show as a pic )

So today i took a brand new 6 D to the lathe and began working.
A carrier for 4 protected LiIon C cells has been made and i plan to mill a slot for a wire carrying the positive to the opposite end. A ring in one end will carry negative and feed the other end via the body.
The body has been shortened 50mm~2" and recut for another switch and head.
No problems with the mecanical part just fun work.

But what options for lights?

The "max" for the C cells are in the ballpark of 6,5-7A (The circuit kicks in at @8A) and then they deliver @3,5V a piece, so 14V 7A = 98W.

I plan a softstart for the incan (and a regulator for the LED?)

So help me out here fellas, what goes in either end of this ??? (Incert good name here!) light?

[Conte]

Oh Snap, that's hilarious.

It's brilliant when you consider the fact it'll be led on end incan on the other.

The power plant is a bit oddball I think. One less cell would of been perfect for a Mag85 incan end. 14v, that's oddball, can't think off the top of my head what hotwire bulb you'd use. Maybe use the regulated incan driver ?

P7 is coming to mind for the led end, but then, I dont' know leds very well.



An amusing but really easy way to wire this up, with two stock switches, and the batteries connecting between the 2 positive points on the switches, you could maybe of run 2 Mag11 in series running at the same time That's would be funny.

[spc]

You can call it "The Axe" . How about a white led on one end, and a red on the other.

[wquiles]

Very interesting project, and nice work on the head threads by the way

What was the thread for the head?

Will

[Dioni]

2 head?!

[The Dane]

Very interesting project, and nice work on the head threads by the way

What was the thread for the head?

Will

???
37,4mm~1.47" x 20TPI

I just measured the other end and copied it for diameter and other dimensions

Sorry no rocket science

[ledaholic]

Biclopse???

[wquiles]

???
37,4mm~1.47" x 20TPI

I just measured the other end and copied it for diameter and other dimensions

Sorry no rocket science

I expected it to be 20 TPI, but I was not 100% sure. I do a "lot" of the cut/re-thread on the tailcap side (those are also 20 TPI), but I have never done a re-thread hob on the other side. Thanks

[jabe1]

You should have an SST-90 at one end. Run it at something ridiculous, like 8amps on high (perhaps use 3 drivers in parallel?), 3 mode so it will actually be usable. On the incan side, try a 35-50w Osram.

[The Dane]

I was thinking along the lines of a power end and a feeble end, ie
5xMCE, 12V 75W bulb or something other and a XPG.

I have a M*g with 3xMCE so a SSR-90 will be exactly the same just different!

I would prefer to go bulb to minimize cost (5xMCE=@80-100 and 3xSSR90=@150 and i'm broke!) but sugestions are appresiated and 2'hand LED's i can afford would be great

Maybe HID but i dont know where to get a kit with a round ballast!

[Benson]

For HID, look up the WA Solarc -- the old ones were 10W, the new ones (NGX) I think are 14W, and more efficient besides. You'll need to bore the top of the Mag (well, one of the tops ) to fit the ballast in; it's quite round, but just a hair bigger than the Mag ID.

[T24]

This post got my brain farting like it has been on baked beans for a week

(Why cant i get this to show as a pic )

You have to copy the Imageadress, and insert it between the img-tag


And sorry for infecting you by a simple photo Now i have to work on a new picture, somthing like a 4 headed, or a bended 6D like a "U", or.... or... :P

[The Dane]

A little thought later i have decided on 3 x MCE in one end. More power in the P7 but the 3 day old fisheye dont fit in the DX reflector.
What about the low power end, any thoughts?

[The Dane]

Did some thoughts and work on the battery compartment today.

One end ( high power) will deliver positive and negative to the light.


A wire vill run from the battery positive to the positive in the other end. To avoid the negative ring the wire is feed through the side.




The finished result


The negative end with a lot of springs
Internally a spring to make negative contact and maintain compression on the cells.


To make the extern contact another spring to keep pressure on the contact points in the other end.


The positive was a little more complex to fabricate.
The brass thingy was made with a concave rescess to make it guide and "lock" onto the M*g contact's positive spring when the light is assembeled.





Next wil be some sort of adaptor so the low power end will accept P60 dropin's. And then fishing assembling, hopefully tomorrow.

[Benson]

Not really relevant to this build, but you mentioned a P60 drop-in, and I thought ''hey, a P60 would fit in a custom D tailcap, for greater stealth." Not sure about a stealthy switching arrangement, though. Maybe a twisty-tailcap? Use a wire to connect the tailspring to the - contact of the switch, and thus to the body, then the P60 in the tailcap only gets - when it's tightened. (Naturally it gets + from another wire.) At least until the type-II anodize wears out and the tailcap threads start conducting...

[The Dane]

So the P60 mod is complete.
Funny thing the P60 spring fits nicely on the outside of the M*g bulb post.






Sorry for the ugly red but it was all i had in 2" diameter on a sunday midnight The P60 is held in place by the front lens and thereby keeps proper contact.



The beast lives



Now i have come up with a project even sillier than this and the 12 D BigM*g

[mvyrmnd]

That's completely nuts.... I love it!

[strycnine]

OMG! I like it!

[Nitroz]

This should confuse some people. Good stuff!

[nein166]

Wait no charging plug in the side?
You have to disassemble an entire end to charge it?

[Zeva]

Where did you get the MC-E heatsink?

[The Dane]

@ Zeva
Homemade, want one?

[The Dane]

Wait no charging plug in the side?
You have to disassemble an entire end to charge it?

Unscrew the bezel in the P60 end and there is positive and negative contacts in plain wiew. No need to drill and build