How NOT to mod a PEAK

1. Beer and modding do not mix.
2. Use the right size snap ring pliers or you will damage the lens.
3. Don't loose the original reflector or try to find o-rings at home depot.


The saving grace- I have the beam just the way I like it.....:thumbsup:
Hi Henk!

Rage, that first photo looks like ordinary CPF handiwork, so don't feel bad. The second looks a little like a beer cooler with cans packed in ice, a clue perhaps to some of your subconscious thoughts.

Never tried to mod a Peak, myself. I've modded an Arc6, a Ti Arc AAA, and a McLuxIII-T, though. I prefer to mod lights that have some ability to self-center the emitter while the epoxy is drying; it saves me a lot of work if I goof up.

Hello Rage,

I pulled my Caribbean apart the other night to see if I can throw a warm emitter in there and I was wondering what you have done to remove the led, emitter only I assume, from a Peak Lensed flashlight. I am assuming that the white substance around the emitter is what I have seen referred to as Arctic White and that there is a different thermal epoxy under the emitter. Any information would be helpful.

Thanks Robert

Hey SG- I left the Seoul P4 that was in there alone- just had to replace the reflector with one I scavanged from another host. MWClint is prob. the most experienced modder on the peak sub forum- he has drilled out entire haeds and modded them with diff. emitters. I will see if I can find any of his mod links. The potting and the depth of the head makes it a fairly tough job from what he has said- so until the P4 goes poof...it stays.
here is info from MWClint.......he is the peak mod master....
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/226601
Peak Caribbean mod.

I started with a 4000K seoul (they put out nice clean beams on small smooth
reflectors), so they are perfect for the peaks. The caribbean driver didnt
like the low vf of these seouls and blew up the led rather quickly.

I have a bunch of 800 mah buck drivers that match up with the low vf and
current requirements of the neutral white seouls, so i set up a new light
engine for the caribbean. The low vf even allows the driver to run well
on a cr123a primary.

oh, the lights are out, i'm using the seoul'd Ti Sapphire to light the place up.


The new light engine


The pcb has a hole for the led, so it can be epoxied directly to the heatsink below it.


gutted caribbean head


light engine in place


back end


the body parts


guts all set up


all sealed up


side profile, with peak momentary switch


Beamshot(800mah 4000K seoul) vs my EDC (500mah U2SWOH modded peak pacifc)..both use a 17mm IMS reflector.
Even though it's a lower flux bin, the extra current more than makes up for it.
it's quite bright.


Peak Caribbean mod.

That's kind of what I was afraid of. I would love to throw some warm emitters in there so maybe I'll pick up one of the old Lux Mediterranean heads at RMSK to tear apart. I just can't bring myself to rip apart a brass body, and who am I kidding, I probably won't be able to kill the Aluminum body either.

I posted for a WTB Peak dead head over in the MP with no luck so unless I get really drunk or bored and or a combination of both, I'll just wait for an unlikely failure.

Thanks for the link, I maybe able to remove the emitter only but I'll pick MWClint's brain for further advice.

Rage.. you can wrap the reflector with electrical tape to build up the diameter to keep it centered in the peak head. if you make it fit too tight, it's
hard to pull the reflector out in the future.

as for the bezel, smoothen/file off the flash created from the pliers, flip the bezel so the holes are facing the plexi and use a small jewelers screwdriver
at an extreme angle to spin the bezel down tight. the look of the reversed
bezel is nice and clean, ive been doing this to all my peaks.

to lighten up scratches on the polycarb lens, use some plastic cleaner or
even some of your brass polish.


for a straight up led swap, you pretty much just have to use a bunch of
force with a flathead screwdriver and pop the led out(destructive).
luxIII leds usually break apart and the base of the led stays intact and you'll
have to dremel the remains to clean it up.. seouls pop out cleanly and in
some cases are even re-usable.
Tape off areas of the head that you dont want to nick up with tools. The
screwdriver will bend..and at times you will even slip and launch a head
across the room.
i've had good luck with the small butane soldering iron from radio shack for
all my work, it'll even reach into a caribbean to solder in a new led
without hitting the led dome. keep the tip clean with a wet sponge and
the tips will last a while.


gutting a peak head with hand tools(dremel) is a painfully long process. again, thickly tape up any edges you dont want to nick. getting through the
epoxy and electrical components is tough. i use carbide bits and plunge cut
through most of it. try to salvage the gold plated/brass battery tip if possible.