If possible change my order to 2 x IS1006-0820 8 2
I need a little help, where to install the pot? In series with H-C, and omit any connection to L-C? Or do I need to vary the value of R5 with pot?
Is this correct????
EDIT: Diagram removed, it had wrong info I didn't want anyone to confuse for actual.
Sorry, I'll be patient and wait till you have more time. I was rewiring my light for the driver.
Last edited by Aircraft800; 03-09-2010 at 08:15 PM.
Sorry I haven't been able to draw pics, but that seems to take me forever, as I am just learning to do it, and I've been busy answering questions and getting product ready to ship (as well as my real job). Next week it should lighten up, after I ship on Monday. I expect all orders received as of now will ship by then. The first batch has been shipping this week.
Mine came in the mail today. I'll post more when I get it installed.
I your items IS1006 - 0880 Items to buy one
How much money will you include the shipping amount to Japan.
Found through this link
If you need help, send it to me and I'll get you a link so you can ad to your first post.
Easy. Yeah. I suppose it could have been if the *&^%$ing PRINTSCREEN keycap had been on the proper key!
Now that my keyboard is adjusted, and with your help , I have been able to post an extract from my own document, here's the image showing how to connect a potentiometer to the IS1006. It also shows an alternate configuration on the positive side: batt direct to LED, and much smaller wire from batt to IS1006. Note the heavy red wires carry high current, the thin black ones can be very small, as they carry very little current.
Below is an excerpt from an e-mail sent to 350xfire regarding questions he had about using the LDO10C with the IS1006:
Someone needs to teach those idiots how to write a data sheet. In order to use the device, you need three documents - the data sheet, the longform datasheet, and the application note. The latter two I found on the "certificates, TRN's & documents" link from the LDO10C web site.
After looking at the thermal data in the longform datasheet, I'm a little alarmed at the possibility of the LDO10C overheating. It says it's designed to use forced air (fan) cooling. They don't give any information about running in still air (as you would have in a flashlight). At 5A, you are probably okay, as long as you don't have high input voltage and high ambient temp around the module. 9V and 40degrees C should be fine. At 8A, you may have a problem, but it's really hard to tell. At 10A you might be screwed.
It's best if the input voltage is as low as possible. The IS1006 needs 0.3V above the LED voltage, and the LDO10C probably needs another 0.5V, so the minimum input voltage is Vled+0.8V. 5S or 6S NiMH or 2S Li-Ion packs should provide sufficient input voltage (but if you're going NiMH, I'd recommend 4S packs and eliminate the LDO10C). From here on I'll assume you are using 2S Li-Ion packs.
A single resistor sets the output voltage of the LDO10C. The equation is
R (K ohms) = 1.182/(Vout-0.591V).
For 5A output, I would recommend Vout = Vled + 0.4V. This would maximize overall system efficiency. If Vled is 3.9V, then R= 0.319 K ohms, or 319 ohms. The nearest standard value would be 316 ohms.
For 8A output, you could run the same way if you had good cooling, but I worry the LDO would overheat. In a closed container with no real cooling for the LDO10, I would recommend sacrificing some overall efficiency to protect the LDO10. I would raise the LDO10's output voltage to 5V using a 267 ohm resistor. Explaination: the heat generated in the LDO10 increases as the output current increases, and also as the ratio of input to output voltage increases. Keeping the ratio of input to output voltage low helps keep the LDO10 from overheating.
Packhorse has more experience keeping electronics cool in a light than I do. Perhaps he can add some suggestions.
payment sent for 1 IS1006-0512 driver.
I hate companies that supply bad data sheets. Really a terrible thing...
EDC E1B, Tigerlight w/LED dropin for when I need more light. Love my new Zebralight H30 for floody tasks and my Quark Mini123 for being awesomely small and bright.
I'm just taking a guess, but by DIWdiver post #50 above, this project was put on hold to clarify the heat and/or damage issue by bad numbers given in the data sheets. Hopefully a quick solution can be found, I need my SST-90 Mag!!
Sorry about the confusion I added. I don't know what a LDO10C is or how it is used in this regulator. It looks like my 4s NiMh was never in question. Disregard this post, I obviously don't know what I'm talking about, it just alarmed me and the other electronic Noobs
Last edited by Aircraft800; 03-23-2010 at 10:33 PM. Reason: Bad Info
If anyone can help, I'm all ears.
In the meantime, I e-mailed you the entire data sheet.
With that said, it appears that the LDO10C isn't the panaea some of us had hoped. But all is not lost. If running an SST-50 with a 2S LiIon pack, I wouldn't worry at all. Running SST-90 at 7A, with 2S LiIon, probably okay, some care warranted. Running higher than 7A or 8V, there are some questions. I'm hoping to hear from Packhorse or someone else with appropriate experience soon. Otherwise, I may have to delve deeper into it myself. As a designer whose expertise is a mixture of theoretical and practical, leaning toward theoretical, I find it''s always useful to listen to those that lean toward practical.
It seems to me the issue is how to get the heat out of the LDO10C. With the thermal epoxies, pastes, and other compounds available, hopefully there will be a good solution soon.
Here is my setup,
BRITELUMENS SST-90 Custom MAG D Heatsink with a DIWdiver SST-90 driver and hand made heatsink thermo grease and screwed down. Wires are 20GA Teflon jacket silver coated copper. It draws 9.97A on 4 fresh C size AccuEvolution Ultra Low Self Discharge NiMH Rechargeable Batteries in a 3D Maglite. 2 Modes, off and "Holy Crap!"
Thanks for a great product Don!!