Sorry I didn't reply sooner. I modded mine last summer (July?) with a high-cri xp-g from Illumination supply (this), and it works great. If I remember correctly, it was a little tricky trimming the mcpcb to fit and to be at the right height, but it's certainly doable. I used arctic alumina adhesive to attach the LED. I think I turned either a quarter or a pre-1982 penny into a little copper heatsink for it, but I can't quite remember. Good luck all.
Well I took the lantern apart successfully but the wires are so tight that I can't get it assembled back again. I'll try a little bit more but just give up if I can't. I have a modded Rayovac SPortsman Xtreme now and working on my second moded Rayovac, which puts out a ton of light.
I just modded the coleman with a neutral r5, it is much improved. Man those 4 skinny little screws holding the thing together were a serious pita. I had to buy a special skinny screwdriver to get to them, and basically trashed it because those threads were so tight.
I havent done a heat test but i dont think it will do well theres no real heatsink, just a metal plate no thicker than a quarter that the pcb is glued to... but fortunately due to the variable levels design, i dont have to run it maxed out to get good light out of it.
Coming into this thread really late, but I'm also interested in replacing the LED with a neutral XP-G. From the spec, the original LED is a XR-C, with a forward voltage of 3.5V at 350mA, 0.5A max. The nominal rating for XP-G is 2.9V at 350mA, about 1.5A max. Is there any issues with the difference in specs? I thought that since the brightest setting would have a resistor set to supply 0.5 amps (maybe?), you would be around 42% of XP-G brightness, so over 150 lm?
Any other details on what you use for heat sinking?