EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

[selfbuilt]

New P20C2 owner here. I've tried this method of putting on the lanyard ring, but when I do this the light will not turn on. Removing the clip and then putting on the lanyard ring works, but I kind of want to keep the clip on there. Any suggestions?
Thanks!

Hmm, that's odd - works fine on my sample to have both in place. But I guess tolerances vary with the degree the tailcap screws down.

Have you tried unscrewing the switch retaining in the tailcap slightly? That may give you the extra clearance you need.

UPDATE: seems I spoke too soon - my sample won't light up either with both the ring and clip installed. And loosening the switch doesn't help - it is clearly designed to work with only one or the other.

[LauraQ]

I found I did not like the clip - the lanyard is of much more use to me - although I am using the Inova lanyard - it doesn't have a clip and is smaller and thinner.

I have removed the clip and I'm trying it just with the lanyard ring and lanyard. Guess I can't have the best of both worlds : ) However, trying this light outside last night...it rocks! Awesome beam! I can't believe that much light comes out of this thing. I've found my new favorite light!

[LauraQ]

Hmm, that's odd - works fine on my sample to have both in place. But I guess tolerances vary with the degree the tailcap screws down.

Have you tried unscrewing the switch retaining in the tailcap slightly? That may give you the extra clearance you need.

Tried it, no go. Oh, well, not a deal breaker for me. I LOVE this light!

[shipwreck]

I have removed the clip and I'm trying it just with the lanyard ring and lanyard. Guess I can't have the best of both worlds : ) However, trying this light outside last night...it rocks! Awesome beam! I can't believe that much light comes out of this thing. I've found my new favorite light!

Yes, I am extremely satisfied with the output of it. It is my new EDC. The Tactical version of the light will be in today, and I plan to keep that by the nightstand.

My T2MP at 140 lumens was blinding me when I grabbed it in the middle of the night when I first woke up. I like the 60 lumen mode for by the bed, but the 300 lumen is great for outside.

[lebox97]

NOTE: loosening the switch retaining will cause erratic switching or no switching at all.

Loose switch ring used to be the number one customer problem I saw with the ET line ("erratic switching", "switch not working", etc) until I explained to customer how to tighten the ring as part of their routine maintenance, (this applies to many other light brands as well that uses a retaining ring)

I also now make it a habit to tighten ring before I ship out product.

This is why ET made retaining ring reverse threaded on the new style caps (MKII XP-G Models) - the ring now self-tightens over time rather than loosening due to the friction on ring from body with frequent cap removal/battery replacement.

...
Have you tried unscrewing the switch retaining in the tailcap slightly?
That may give you the extra clearance you need.

ummm, sounds like you need to work with the dealer who know their products?

SMO reflector as a dealer "default" is a carry over from the NON XP-G R5 models as they produced maximum LUX/Throw, albeit usually w/ ringy beam.

ET FACTORY Default since day one (and as you noted - my default too) with the XP-G models is LOP as it produces more LUX/Throw and better beam with the XP-G LED's than the SMO reflector does.


Tod

Does anyone have comparison of beam pattern of different reflectors available, for P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5), i.e. OP vs LOP with regards to the 'doughnut hole' that is seen with SMO?

Quote from one dealer's site:
'MKII Default Reflector is LOP (Light Orange Peel) for optimum balance between Throw and Beam quality. (You may select optional Orange Peel Reflector in Shopping Cart for smoother beam pattern)'. Other dealers are not aware that LOP exists.

[selfbuilt]

Hmm, just checked, and my P20C2-II doesn't light up with both rings installed. Sorry about that Laura, I thought I had checked that before taking the pic. I'll add a note to the review. The behaviour of your light is perfectly normal.

NOTE: loosening the switch retaining will cause erratic switching or no switching at all. ... This is why ET made retaining ring reverse threaded on the new style caps (MKII XP-G Models) - the ring now self-tightens over time rather than loosening due to the friction on ring from body with frequent cap removal/battery replacement.

Yes, I agree that it was a good choice to change to a reverse threading design. This is a common complain on most lights, not just eagletac. You frequently see people bashing lights for "breaking" within weeks of purchase here on CPF, when it many cases it is simply the switch retaining ring having worked itself loose.

I hope more makers follow Eagletac's lead on reverse treading.

[shipwreck]

Thanks for the info on the tailcap - although I have the Mk II, so that seems to be a non issue as you report it. I did want to swop to the GITD tailcap cover, and I read the online instructions on how to do it.

But, I couldn't get the inside to loosen, and I didn't want to force it, so I gave up.

[was.lost.but.now.found]

When did you stop including the impressions of Mrs. Selfbuilt? I always like to hear what non-enthusiasts think.

[selfbuilt]

When did you stop including the impressions of Mrs. Selfbuilt? I always like to hear what non-enthusiasts think.

Although I didn't inquire in this specific case, I know Mrs. Selfbuilt's general preference in the 2xCR123A class - she likes beefier lights, and so would go for the T20C2-II over the P20C2-II.

She also likes a simple interface, so the head twist here works. But she can't stand strobe/SOS modes, so probably wouldn't like the chance of accidentally activating it in this series (i.e. repeated tighten-loosen cycles can bring it out accidentally).

She also doesn't like these kinds of pocket clips, and would prefer to take it off and just use the holster for carry.

[nonanon]

NOTE: SMO reflector as a dealer "default" is a carry over from the NON XP-G R5 models as they produced maximum LUX/Throw, albeit usually w/ ringy beam.

ET FACTORY Default since day one (and as you noted - my default too) with the XP-G models is LOP as it produces more LUX/Throw and better beam with the XP-G LED's than the SMO reflector does.


Tod

Tod, my confusion is with the OP reflector. Does it come in two versions? The dealer's site offers a choice of LOP or OP, or are they the same?

[lebox97]

I am the dealer of which you speak... (see my sig line)
unless of course someone has borrowed text of my site.

Brief History: several Q5/R2 etc LED light models/brands offer 2 choices of reflectors for easy swap out depending on use -
Smooth (SMO) typically produces an intense center spot/high LUX for maximum throw, but with a ringy beam pattern.
Orange Peel (OP) texture typically produces a smoother-nicer beam pattern, but, but typically reduces the hot spot intensity/LUX, and thus is less throwy (typical LUX measurements I have taken - show about 15%+ less throw with OP)

With the new ET MKII XP-G R5 COOL LED's -
there are 3 reflector choices offered by the EagleTac factory.
NOTE: These are not replaceable reflectors, but easily replaceable inexpensive modules which include the reflector.
LOP - (LIGHT textured OP) is factory default, and this produces the highest LUX/Throw, and a nice beam.
OP - offers a more diffused center spot and nicest beam, but slightly less throw/LUX.
SMO - frankly in my opinion offers no benefit with the short and wide 120 degree output from the R5 COOL LED, and, produces a center spot with a darker center (donut hole).

as I have said - "YMMV"
I have read a few posts that stated someone got the SMO reflector with the R5 and love the output, and it throws further (with no mention about comparing it to other reflector choices so how do they know?)

In MY experience of personally checking EVERY light I sell -
LOP offers the best output for general use with the R5 COOL LED, and those of us with LUX meters will tell you that the LOP reflector produces more LUX on average than the SMO reflector does with the XP-G R5 COOL LED (due to the darker center).
There can always be an exception I suppose (I have seen a dark donut hole w/ a LOP reflector, but considered this a defect and returned/exchanged it).

Recently a large SWAT/SO Department did a face off - 3 of my LOP T20C2 MKII's Weapon Kit's, against several typical Streamlight/Pelican/Surefire Weapon mounted systems - their response? They "could count fingers at 75 yards distance" w/ the LOP, and have since purchased 50 more of them.

My advice is to order the model with the reflector you think you'd like, and if you don't like it - work with the dealer to replace the module with another one. (it takes 10-15 seconds to swap them out) or worst case for $24-25 +/- buy another module if you want to.
Some people buy a second module with a different tint (NEUTRAL) so they can change out the module for use in different environments (Indoor/Urban COOL, vs Outdoor/Rural NEUTRAL)

The dealer doesn't offer more than 1 module/reflector choice,
or does not disclose which reflector is THEIR default,
or says there is only 1 reflector choice?

Simple - buy the product from somewhere else.


Tod

[shipwreck]

I'll give a +1000 to Illumination gear. I ordered a P20C2 Mk II, and I accidentally screwed up the po box #. The post office returned it back to him - but it took about 2 weeks for it to get back to him.

As soon as I realized the problem - he shipped a 2nd one out to me at no extra charge, while he waited for the 1st one to come back to him. I got my light a few days later, and he didn't get his back until a couple of days ago.

I also ordered a T20C2 Mk II from him as well, and it came in on Thur.

Any other Eagletacs I buy will be thru Illumination Gear!

[selfbuilt]

In MY experience of personally checking EVERY light I sell -
LOP offers the best output for general use with the R5 COOL LED, and those of us with LUX meters will tell you that the LOP reflector produces more LUX on average than the SMO reflector does with the XP-G R5 COOL LED (due to the darker center).

Yes, that was my experience as well with the smooth and textured reflectors, as reported in my T20C2-II review.

Glad to hear it confirmed by a dealer with more experience.

[tacgearguy]

I love my P20A2 MkII !!!!!!! This review was the reason I bought it!

[ildiopantofola]

Hi guys,

I was looking for the P20C2 MarkII, I think it is a great light but I didn't get one thing: can I use a 18650 rechargeable li-on battery in it or this kind of cell is only for the tactical version T20C2 MarkII ??

Thank you

[jcalvert]

Hi guys,

I was looking for the P20C2 MarkII, I think it is a great light but I didn't get one thing: can I use a 18650 rechargeable li-on battery in it or this kind of cell is only for the tactical version T20C2 MarkII ??

Thank you

An 18650 does not fit the P20C2 MKII, however if you prefer rechargeable Li Ion batteries, it will accept 1x 17670, and 2x 16340 (RCR123). If you choose the P20, you won't regret the decision.

[ildiopantofola]

I see, so the P20C2 mkii has more or less half the runtime of the T20C2 mkii that accepts the 18650.. am I right? if the 17670 is rated 1800mAh and the 18650 is 3000+mAh .... I'm also thinking about the P20A2 mkii because I have a lot of AA NiMh rechargeable batteries but it has less output... do you think the P20C2 mkii is worth the battery and charger cost ?

Thank you again guys

[jcalvert]

I see, so the P20C2 mkii has more or less half the runtime of the T20C2 mkii that accepts the 18650.. am I right? if the 17670 is rated 1800mAh and the 18650 is 3000+mAh Assuming the XM-L (C2100 driver) in both models, then "generally speaking", yes .... I'm also thinking about the P20A2 mkii because I have a lot of AA NiMh rechargeable batteries but it has less output... do you think the P20C2 mkii is worth the battery and charger cost ? That would be a very personal decision in that if the length of the P20A2 MKII is not an issue, and you already have plenty of AA NiMH batteries, then the P20 would be a wonderful choice, but at ~ half the output on high. If you're not tied to using the AA format, for the same price, you could get the shorter P20C2 MKII, and start out with 3.0V lithium batteries (aka "primaries") as opposed to the investment of rechargeable 3.7V (4.2V fully charged) Li Ion batteries and a charger.

EagleTac has a new high capacity lithium battery (~1700mAh) w/ circuit protection from short circuit and current overflow. Four of those added to an order for the P20C2 MKII would be a cost-effective, initial choice. Armed with more education, you could eventually move to rechargeables and a charger. Primaries are always great as back-up to Li Ions or other rechargeable chemistries. Regardless of the type of battery you choose, you are encouraged to read as much as possible about battery safety by going to that CPF sub-forum. Thank you again guys

[Websniper]

I partially based my decision to pickup this light based on this review. Unfortunately, my experience with my new p20c2 has been quite disappointing.

I posted seperately in the led flashlight forum, but figured this may be a good place to elicit some feedback as well.

One main concern is how slowly the light actually activates after depressing the switch either partially for momentary or fully for constant on. There is a significant delay after the switch is activated until light is generated. Even a co-worker that I showed the light to commented about how slow the activation was after depressing the switch.

Is this common for all ET or this model, or do I have a bum unit?

[jcalvert]

One main concern is how slowly the light actually activates after depressing the switch either partially for momentary or fully for constant on. There is a significant delay after the switch is activated until light is generated. Even a co-worker that I showed the light to commented about how slow the activation was after depressing the switch.

Is this common for all ET or this model, or do I have a bum unit?

That is strange and it's certainly an anomaly! Our family has among us, two each of the P20 & T20 and each has always fired-up immediately.

How long is the delay? After ignition, does it otherwise function normally? Could it be the brand of battery?

If requisite troubleshooting excludes the batteries (2x CR123?), the switch (being fully seated & tightened down), the LED module (tightened down w/ reverse threading), then unless someone else can offer something more, I would send it back to the dealer for repair or replacement.

The P20C2 MKII is a great value with its relatively high quality construction, it's compact size for such a powerful light, it's many features, and of course the ability to switch out modules makes the P20 a favorite of mine. I would just exchange it after you have exhausted all advice and efforts at diagnosis. Start over with a new one and you'll be glad you did. Best wishes!

[Websniper]

Yeah I love the features the light offers. I have the neutral white pill and I love the tint.

Unfortunately the only batteries I have right now are Streamlight. I use my last two in the light so I'm going to have to order some batteries anyway. I am probably going to get some Rayovac's.

I'm fairly certain the switch, pill, and the head are tightened appropriately on the body, but I will double check today and if that doesn't help I'll be getting a hold of Going Gear.

[Websniper]

The delay is not excessive, I would say half a second. Otherwise the light functions normally and I can switch modes no problem.

[Chevy-SS]

The delay is not excessive, I would say half a second. Otherwise the light functions normally and I can switch modes no problem.

The delay should not be there. I have both of the ET lights in this thread (P20C2 and P20A2). Both of mine are XP-G R5 MkII. They both work great, no delay at all.

A delay would drive me crazy. I would start by cleaning and tightening everything, and trying some different batteries.

Good luck.

-

EDIT: - I will add that on my P20C2 I had an issue with some of the internals loosening up. Now that I think about it (if my fuzzy memory serves me correctly), I believe there WAS a delay caused by that...... I suspect you may have same issue. I dis-assembled the light, then carefully re-assembled and problem was gone.

-

[selfbuilt]

Unfortunately the only batteries I have right now are Streamlight. I use my last two in the light so I'm going to have to order some batteries anyway. I am probably going to get some Rayovac's.
I'm fairly certain the switch, pill, and the head are tightened appropriately on the body, but I will double check today and if that doesn't help I'll be getting a hold of Going Gear.

I never saw a delay on any of my P20A2/C2 or T20C2 sample (had Mark I and Mark II of all three). Of course, since this is a forward clicky, there's a minimum degree of press required before the light will come on. But there should be no lag once that point is reached. Sounds a like a switch connectivity issue - I would clean and re-tighten the switch internals and body tube, like others have recommended.

FYI, Streamlight batteries perform the same as Rayovacs (in fact, they may be identical and just re-branded). Of course, always a good idea to try a fresh pair of cells when troubleshooting. Good luck!

[Websniper]

Gonna grab another set of batts and I have a new tube of nyogel onhand, so I'll tear it down and clean it up tonight.

[Websniper]

After cleaning up the threads, the slow response only seems to occur with the head loosened(general mode). Response in Turbo seems almost instantaneous.

Something is off in my opinion. I've initiated contact with GoingGear.

They do suggest checking the retaining ring in the switch, but how do I tighten or even remove this ring(If I wanted to swap out the boot, for example)?

[Chevy-SS]

...... how do I tighten or even remove this ring(If I wanted to swap out the boot, for example)?

You would officially use a "spanner" wrench, which you would adjust to sync with the two small holes in the retaining ring. Then simply unscrew (being careful to rotate in proper direction because often times the threads are reversed). I use a small pair of needlenose pliers, and put one end of the nose into each small hole, then carefully remove the ring.

EDIT - I just checked my P20C2 and there IS some delay when turning light on with loose head. No delay with tight head. Very small delay with loose head, but noticeable. This intrigued me, so I checked my P20A2 and I noticed the same thing!


-

[Websniper]

Thanks for that input Chevy.

I'm hearing several reports of this delay from CPF members.

I'm undecided what I want to do with this light. I'll keep it for sure, but I'm debating if I wanna deal with the hassle of sending it back for a replacement, especially if it behaves similarly. Plus, I am going up to the mountains next weekend and I had hoped to have the light with me. If I RMA it, I doubt it'll be back in time.

[slickseal]

I am a total newb, but how would this compare to the T100C2 Mark II ?
thanks in advance!

[selfbuilt]

I am a total newb, but how would this compare to the T100C2 Mark II ?
thanks in advance!

The T100C2 that I have (which is a Mark II) was directly compared to P20C2 Mark II in this review. Look at the summary tables and runtimes in the first review post.

Basically, the P20C2-II has higher max output than the T100C2-II (and concurrently, reduced runtime). The T100C2-II has further throw.

If you are having trouble interpreting the runtime graphs, I have a video that will help:



You can see the full list and explanation of these videos in my Selfbuilt's introductory flashlight video primers thread.