Sharpening system
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TriChrome
Enlightened
I use this system:
http://www.gatcosharpeners.com/product/diamond/diahone_sharp_sys.mgi?mgiToken=41D30B033CE728F4AC5
They can be found for around $55. I believe it's good because it keeps the sharpening angle the same through the entire process. This means it's going to be easier to sharpen the knife the next time you do it, and should make the knife last longer since you're not taking away any unnecessary metal.
With a 25 degree sharpening angle, my large 10" hunting knife can still slice little slivers off paper, or shave the hair off your arm.
http://www.gatcosharpeners.com/product/diamond/diahone_sharp_sys.mgi?mgiToken=41D30B033CE728F4AC5
They can be found for around $55. I believe it's good because it keeps the sharpening angle the same through the entire process. This means it's going to be easier to sharpen the knife the next time you do it, and should make the knife last longer since you're not taking away any unnecessary metal.
With a 25 degree sharpening angle, my large 10" hunting knife can still slice little slivers off paper, or shave the hair off your arm.
Chauncey Gardner
Enlightened
I use the Idahone Crock Stix for the pocket & field knives and it works very well. The angles are 20 or 25, comes with fine & medium ceramic rods enclosed in a small hardwood block.
Very similar to the Spyderco setup with the triangular sticks but has been around a lot longer.
Both produce a consistent & repeatable edge even if you have little sharpening experience.
For the kitchen knives I use Japanese waterstones because my kitchen knives have a very steep (typical of Japanese cooking cutlery) angle & relatively thin blades.
For German type kitchen cutlery the Idahone or Spydie system would work great.
A lot depends on what kind of knives you want to sharpen & the bevel angles used on them.
A rounded bevel edge knife is another matter (Bark River, Hattori & others).
Very similar to the Spyderco setup with the triangular sticks but has been around a lot longer.
Both produce a consistent & repeatable edge even if you have little sharpening experience.
For the kitchen knives I use Japanese waterstones because my kitchen knives have a very steep (typical of Japanese cooking cutlery) angle & relatively thin blades.
For German type kitchen cutlery the Idahone or Spydie system would work great.
A lot depends on what kind of knives you want to sharpen & the bevel angles used on them.
A rounded bevel edge knife is another matter (Bark River, Hattori & others).
was.lost.but.now.found
Enlightened
I used to use the stones with the rods set at a chosen angle, but it took me an hour or more to sharpen all my (mainly kitchen) knives. I got this for Christmas and I love it: http://www.williams-sonoma.com/prod...ner/?pkey=cknife-sharpeners-storage|cutsshman. It works very very well for how easy it is. It's a two stage - carbide to set the edge and ceramic to smooth the burrs.
bthrel
Newly Enlightened
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TriChrome
Enlightened
I have that CRKT one as well, and I don't like it. Probably because none of my fixed blade knives will fit in it (too thick of a blade, but they're only 1/4 and 3/8"), and it seems awkward to use with my smaller pocket knives.
I also remember the two angle options they give you are way off from how I normally sharpen (which is 22-25 degrees).
I also remember the two angle options they give you are way off from how I normally sharpen (which is 22-25 degrees).
carrot
Flashaholic
Spyderco Sharpmaker. Extremely versatile and easy to use.
gunga
Flashaholic
I totally agree with your last statement. My setup is dmt coarse/fine benchstone, the duobase. Synthetic japanese whetstones 1000/4000 combo. Dmt dia sharps minis the 3pack with extra fine, fine and coarse. I have some oilstones that rarely use. I freehand everything. I love both but find the my dmt benchstone is the most useful, it trues my waterstones, oilstones if I have to and its very quick. The japanese whetstone is just a joy for japanese steel, it just feels like you are a accompishing something as you slice away the resin bond of the stone and for 25 bucks its hard to argue but my duobase is a luxury and I appreciate it. It really does depend on what I am sharpening, single/double bevel's and what I ultimately want to do with what I'm sharpening.
Ps if anyone wants to sell a an old norton white lilly pm me.
Jedi Knife
Enlightened
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2006
- Messages
- 217
I have to say Lansky. If you are using a Spyderco Sharpmaker, your knife probably doesn't really need sharpening anyway. The Lansky system (or any comparable ones that use a clamp and rod/stone combination) can take a knife with no edge whatsoever and make it razor sharp. I did that for a friend of mine who had a custom knife made for him but for some reason the maker did not put any edge on it (?). I dare any Sharpmaker user to try to do that with their sharpener. The Lansky system (or comparable rod/clamp style sharpener) makes every movement exactly the correct angle so there is no wasted material or effort; every stroke across the stone is the correct angle and working progressively with finer stones will make a ridiculously sharp, scary sharp edge that is shaving sharp.
Hmm looks interesting. Sounds like you would recommend it?
Chauncey Gardner
Enlightened
Agree, the DMT's are great and partiuclarly useful for bringing back your waterstones to a uniform level surface. I believe the combo stone I primarily use is also a 1000/4000 combo. It works very well & have not felt a need to go to anything finer. After that edge is put on I only need one or two light strokes on a MAC fine ceramic rod for occaisonaly realigning the edge. The Idahone does 10 degrees a side (close to most of the factory grinds in these types of knives) and works well on my Shun stuff, but some of the spendy stuff (Mr. Ito or Mr Saji if you are familiar with them from japaneseknifedirect) only sees the waterstones.
It is almost meditative working some of them over.
The rest of the diamond (gerber etc) stones are far too aggresive for that type of superfine edge & better suited for thinning duty or bringing back field blades that are 59+ RHC.
Learned how to sharpen on Arkansas oil stones & will never go back:laughing:.
Way too much work & the surface hardness varies from spot to spot on the stones producing minor irregularities as you work the edge.
Not a big fan of the carbide V type edge shapers either for restoration purposes.
Have you tried any of the suspended diamond spray on a strop yet?
Been wanting to check it out for a set of bevel edge Saji's that are just wicked sharp, hand hammered damascus around 62RHC.
Was skeptical about a bevel edge cooking knfe, but they hold an edge forever & just fall through almost any prep job you can try them on.
Have you tried any camelia oil on the blades for protection / conditioning?
Much better than the mineral oil I've use in the past for this.
We need a kitchen knife thread around here for the ocd foodies next!
was.lost.but.now.found
Enlightened
If you're looking to shave with it, go with the Lanksy style. If you want a durable, even, sharp edge in 1 minute, then I absolutely recommend it (Williams-Sonoma two stage).
Batou00159
Enlightened
I recomend taling some time and lurning to use a whetstone in various grit 600 or less for damaged tools and knives and 1500 grit for everyday and when you need a fine shine you could splash out on an 8000 grit
And if your on the go try a fallkniven dc3 for a touch up.
p.s it dosent take as long as you think
And if your on the go try a fallkniven dc3 for a touch up.
p.s it dosent take as long as you think
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I have the Wicked Edge.
Batou00159
Enlightened
Originally Posted by Chauncey Gardner 
Agree, the DMT's are great and partiuclarly useful for bringing back your waterstones to a uniform level surface. I believe the combo stone I primarily use is also a 1000/4000 combo. It works very well & have not felt a need to go to anything finer. After that edge is put on I only need one or two light strokes on a MAC fine ceramic rod for occaisonaly realigning the edge. The Idahone does 10 degrees a side (close to most of the factory grinds in these types of knives) and works well on my Shun stuff, but some of the spendy stuff (Mr. Ito or Mr Saji if you are familiar with them from japaneseknifedirect) only sees the waterstones.
It is almost meditative working some of them over.
The rest of the diamond (gerber etc) stones are far too aggresive for that type of superfine edge & better suited for thinning duty or bringing back field blades that are 59+ RHC.
Learned how to sharpen on Arkansas oil stones & will never go back:laughing:.
Way too much work & the surface hardness varies from spot to spot on the stones producing minor irregularities as you work the edge.
Not a big fan of the carbide V type edge shapers either for restoration purposes.
Have you tried any of the suspended diamond spray on a strop yet?
Been wanting to check it out for a set of bevel edge Saji's that are just wicked sharp, hand hammered damascus around 62RHC.
Was skeptical about a bevel edge cooking knfe, but they hold an edge forever & just fall through almost any prep job you can try them on.
Have you tried any camelia oil on the blades for protection / conditioning?
Much better than the mineral oil I've use in the past for this.
We need a kitchen knife thread around here for the ocd foodies next!
dindent see this kool some pros out there then:twothumbs
Agree, the DMT's are great and partiuclarly useful for bringing back your waterstones to a uniform level surface. I believe the combo stone I primarily use is also a 1000/4000 combo. It works very well & have not felt a need to go to anything finer. After that edge is put on I only need one or two light strokes on a MAC fine ceramic rod for occaisonaly realigning the edge. The Idahone does 10 degrees a side (close to most of the factory grinds in these types of knives) and works well on my Shun stuff, but some of the spendy stuff (Mr. Ito or Mr Saji if you are familiar with them from japaneseknifedirect) only sees the waterstones.
It is almost meditative working some of them over.
The rest of the diamond (gerber etc) stones are far too aggresive for that type of superfine edge & better suited for thinning duty or bringing back field blades that are 59+ RHC.
Learned how to sharpen on Arkansas oil stones & will never go back:laughing:.
Way too much work & the surface hardness varies from spot to spot on the stones producing minor irregularities as you work the edge.
Not a big fan of the carbide V type edge shapers either for restoration purposes.
Have you tried any of the suspended diamond spray on a strop yet?
Been wanting to check it out for a set of bevel edge Saji's that are just wicked sharp, hand hammered damascus around 62RHC.
Was skeptical about a bevel edge cooking knfe, but they hold an edge forever & just fall through almost any prep job you can try them on.
Have you tried any camelia oil on the blades for protection / conditioning?
Much better than the mineral oil I've use in the past for this.
We need a kitchen knife thread around here for the ocd foodies next!
dindent see this kool some pros out there then:twothumbs
mossyoak
Flashlight Enthusiast
Hated my lansky with the fixed angle of sharpening, crap quality. Sharpmaker was much better and sits in the kitchen setup all the time. But the best setup I've found is my DMT diafold red/blue works like a charm on anything. But takes a second to learn how to use it. Now I can do it blindfolded and sharpen anything
nvrdark
Newly Enlightened
Razor Edge Systems. I do not use there stones but with a large ultra course and one very fine stone and a large and small guide I can take any knife in any shape and shave with it in 10 minutes or less.
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