Volcano Killer

[PhotonFanatic]

A customer wanted a Kuukuu Killer, similar to this one, but since I get easily bored making the same exact item more than once, this light would be different.

This is also made from Mokume Gane, which is comprised of alternating layers of copper and nickel silver; even before etching the pattern is clearly visible in the metal:



But etching with ferric chloride really developes the pattern as it etches away the copper at a faster rate than the nickel silver. And the ferric chloride will also darken the copper, too.

However, there are other methods to enhance the contrast, from special patina solutions to home-made brews using eggs, or vinegar and ammonia. There is also heat, which will darken the copper, and even produce various colors, depending on the temperature and composition of the gases striking the metal.

I decided to try some heat this time, to see what could be done. Only problem was that having never done it before, I really wasn't super experienced, although I did try a test piece first. In retrospect, I overheated the light, going way past the color that I wanted--red hot copper colors look completely different from the final color after coloring!

Still, the excess heat did something else that was fine--it oxidized the nickel silver to a nice black. And the oxidation on the copper mostly flaked off when the light was just touched. The net result: a nice black and orange combo:






Now dubbed the Volcano Killer I have no clue if my customer will like it or not, but I do. And I now know that there are some really nice colors possible with heating the Mokume Gane lights, so further experimentation awaits.

[ninemm]

That is quite possibly the coolest combination of textures, patterns, and colors I've seen on a light ever! Fred, where was this brilliant idea of yours when I was looking for an orange killer??? Oh wait, it's probably out of my price range anyway Thanks for the awesome eye candy Fred!

[paulr]

Wow!

[1 what]

Hi Fred.
I wish you'd stop tempting me!
One of these days I'm going to have to sell something (a kidney?) and buy one of your lights.
Fantastic!

[paintballdad]

Fred, your creativity simply amazes me. Awesome work as always.

[jch79]

Well, it's no original Kuukuu Killer , but I suppose it's alright!

Fred, the colors you achieved in this thing are awesome. And the textures and shape of the pattern are perfectly complimented by the shape of the light.

When do you start on your next MG light?

john

[karlthev]

Looks great Fred but will you seal it some fashion so that it doesn't corrode?



Karl

[RIDE]

UBER cool!

RIDE

[PhotonFanatic]

Looks great Fred but will you seal it some fashion so that it doesn't corrode?



Karl

Hi Karl,

Well, it really wouldn't "corrode", just oxidize further if not coated.

I've offered the customer a couple options: 1) Renaissance Wax, or 2) Protectaclear--a polymer coating that can be baked on. Either of these would provide protection for 1-2 years. The Protectaclear is used in the jewelry industry to coat sterling silver. I've just started using it and so far I find it to be clear, smooth and hypoallegenic, so it seems fine for Shelf Queens.

[PhotonFanatic]

The customer loved it and noted that it looked like a volcano, so it now has a name. I'll be coating it with Protectaclear and will post a photo once it has cured.

[toby_pra]

Stunning!

[kaichu dento]

That is quite possibly the coolest combination of textures, patterns, and colors I've seen on a light ever! Fred, where was this brilliant idea of yours when I was looking for an orange killer??? Oh wait, it's probably out of my price range anyway Thanks for the awesome eye candy Fred!

After you've been here for a full year you'll be surprised at how your perspective of what's in/out of your price range!

[rayman]

Great light, always liked your custom flashlights .

PS: We in Europe could really need a 'Volcano Killer' right now .

rayman

[karlthev]

Sorry about the terminology "corrode" Fred---"oxidize" would be more appropriate. My bad.


Karl

[Nitroz]

I must say that you make the cadillac/bentley/rolls royce of flashlights! Excellent work!

[foxracer72]

amazingly cool, great job i love the textured look

[J Smyth]

When I use heat for coloring purposes I use the back part of the flame on the outside of the yellow spectrum. Go real slow and when you first start to see the color change stop heating it and wait about 30 seconds and re-inspect. This will stop the heat coloring transfer and makes the coloring more uniform. I also dont heat the same area for any length of time. The flame is always moving so I dont get things blotchy or over colored, patience is key. I also do more flat sections than your round flashlites Fred. But the thicker sections get more heat and then I work to the thinner section. If you dont do it that way the thin sections way over color first and look washed out on my knives. I probably spend 5 minutes for each piece bringing it up to color.

[datiLED]

That light looks amazing. The textures and colors draw the eye and capture the attention. It reminds me of a relic that was unearthed and carefully cleaned, before being put on display in a museum.

Nice work as usual, Fred.

[PhotonFanatic]

Some final pics--after installing the LED/driver and coating the outside of the light with Protectaclear:






Did ya like that blatant commercial?

[ninemm]

Oh me likey!

[jch79]

The Protectaclear really makes this thing pop. What a cool combination of color, pattern, and texture.

Congrats to the owner, whoever they may be!

john

[wquiles]

Awesome work Fred

[PhotonFanatic]

When I use heat for coloring purposes I use the back part of the flame on the outside of the yellow spectrum. Go real slow and when you first start to see the color change stop heating it and wait about 30 seconds and re-inspect. This will stop the heat coloring transfer and makes the coloring more uniform. I also dont heat the same area for any length of time. The flame is always moving so I dont get things blotchy or over colored, patience is key. I also do more flat sections than your round flashlites Fred. But the thicker sections get more heat and then I work to the thinner section. If you dont do it that way the thin sections way over color first and look washed out on my knives. I probably spend 5 minutes for each piece bringing it up to color.

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the tips--although I'm not one to be overly patient.

Good point about stopping early--I guess there's no harm done that way, even if I do have to reheat the entire light to take it to the next color. OK, I will be patient.

[fyrstormer]

Be still my beating heart.

Fred, do you think you could make something like this that runs on an RCR123 and has a proper reflector? I think the cold precision of the reflector would contrast nicely with the organic handmade look of the body.

[PhotonFanatic]

Unfortunately, the largest diameter bar of Mokume Gane that I can buy is 19mm, and after cleaning it up a tad, that takes it down to 18.50mm, which is not large enough for a CR123 battery.

Just Google Protectaclear--it is a polymer coating.

[ninemm]

Unfortunately, the largest diameter bar of Mokume Gane that I can buy is 19mm, and after cleaning it up a tad, that takes it down to 18.50mm, which is not large enough for a CR123 battery.

Just Google Protectaclear--it is a polymer coating.

Large enough for AA maybe? I wonder what MG would look like knurled?

[PhotonFanatic]

Large enough for AA maybe? I wonder what MG would look like knurled?

AA? -- Been there, done that. And I'll do it again, soon, I hope.

I think knurling would look terrible in MG, due to the different hardnesses of the two/three metals, plus, you would break up the nice pattern that is inherent in the twist pattern.

[crossliner67]

There goes my eyes! Looks like some alien hybrid technology that's been buried for eons and unearthed by some flashalogist, dang! That ain't no human work, nossuh!

[fyrstormer]

Well, if you ever get your hands on some 1-inch Mokume Gane, give me a yell and I'll come up with something fun for you to do with it.

I agree with not knurling this stuff. I think if you wanted a really grippy surface, the key would be to etch it longer so the "grain" would be more pronounced.

[ninemm]

I think knurling would look terrible in MG, due to the different hardnesses of the two/three metals, plus, you would break up the nice pattern that is inherent in the twist pattern.

That's what I thought. I just like knurling.

How wide can you make knurls? This is a bit OT, but is it possible to do a single row of knurls and have them be large/spaced widely?