We’re going to a little something different here, set up this thread, Michael.su’s thread, to be a place where hobby machinists’ can offer their services for members who want bicycle light work done. Never mind that this is an old thread, I have discussed this issue with Michael.su via PM and he thinks it is a great idea. There will some basic rules for this thread:
No advertising by professional business’s, or professional machinists.
Professional machinists can post as hobby machinists who want to do side work.
All transactions will take place via PM’s where email addresses can be shared.
As in all CPF or CPFMP sales transactions, CPF will not be responsible for transactions gone bad. In this thread, deal with questions about delivery, malfunctioning parts, etc, via PM or Email.
Rules may change or be amended.
This thread will be heavily moderated.
I'm a machinist by trade, trail-riding mountain biker by night. You just can't beat blazing down pitch black trails in the quiet night IMHO.
What I'm looking for is some side work. Do you have some ideas for a light housing or any other accessory but don't have the tools to manufacture it?
I can help.
This way, I can help people out and also make little extra income to help offset the cost of my hobbies.
I'm not really looking for any production work. more like custom components.
I can help with designing also. I have the software necessary for modeling and mechanical drawings as well as 15 yrs experience in manufacturing.
I've designed, machined and built my own light.
Simple but cool .... I can make yours more or less intricate, however you envision it.
Here is mine:
Last edited by Bullzeyebill; 07-11-2011 at 09:35 PM.
You folks do some great work. Being a hobbyist wannabe machinist I can appreciate the amount of time and work it takes to turn out even the simplest of parts. Then again, I'm doing it all on a manual miniature mill (Sherline). Keep up the good work, fellas.
Yeah...the drill press is not rigid like a mill. Therefore you get chatter if you try to take too much off. The neighbor's lathe is from 1920. It's not bad, but parting tools are an issue b/c of the flex in the tool holder.
It's frustrating. Takes me at least a couple hours to fin one side of a hex light
Barry_Scott, i am half way through doing a poor imitation of that twin light you posted, just by coincidence. I'm at the stage of getting drivers, battery and housing. Could you help out / recommend anything there? at the moment im thinking the taskled bflex driver and an enclosure made from tubing (not ideal). I really need to find a source for a decent battery.
Would a copy of your enclosure be something you could provide? If so, what sort of $?
sory for the delay but yes i can do that the issue would be if mods were required and which parts you would require. eg just the body, the body + end caps + mount. The would also have to be negotiated as more changes need more proving out.
hey all this is my first post, nice to meet you....
im looking for a night trail set up, i ride with a couple of different clubs but all the guys seem quite hung up on splashing as much cash as can can on different rigs... they just dont seem to consider customs.
so i think having something different would be great thinking twin on bars but like the look of the two lock fish block fixing for the mount... then something similkar but just single on lid.
sorry to keep on lol....
output wise im looking for as close to the 1000 mark as poss.
i hope we can do something and that it could catch on with the other guys i ride with.
Hi Garth my name is really matt (long story about barry)
You are a MTB trail rider and looking for a twin on the bars and one on the head.
Well my design is good (he says himself) but mainly suited for road use as the beam is persing with not much spill. Mind out for low hanging branches!
Also i would suggest that you might not need a double as you can get a tripple light unit in a setup like chelboed which is 1100. It also depend on the burn time. How long do you ride for?
My setup is good for 10 rides of 1/2hrs on a 7.6v 4500mah lipo battery. If you are going for a 1000 setup you will looking at 1.5-2.5amp current draw on that battery so could be good for an hour or two at most.
So what i would suggest is think hard what you want to acheive.
My current battery is about 50mm x 20mm x 150mm but i would suggest that it is sealed in a water. it ways about 200g but with your multiple lights you may need 2 or three to get the run time.
Have a look at my site.
So the big issue so to speak is the enclosure. Since my parts seem to be so similar to your setup, i would suppose that its a case of getting a better look at your build? I think I'd probably be able to get away with a direct copy of your milled enclosure + switches? I'm not too sure about the battery indicator, but very cool if doable.
Thanks for the heads up on the battery place. I havent checked shipping yet, but they seem like good options. I'll probably mount whatever the final solution is in a pvc tube and mount some waterproof plugs in the end. I just wish the batts werent built to such stocky dimensions. (Ie i obv want something more tube like rather than a brick :P). A 50mm diameter tube is a bit much against the size of your normal bike frame. I spose i could always get a few of the smaller capacity units and wire them in series.
I have to arrange the mechanics of getting the drivers too. taskled dont sell to australia directly, but through a reseller who absolutely gouges. It's cheaper for me to buy through a USA postage bouncer with their fees than it is to buy from the reseller. bastards.
If i end up getting the case from you barry, i might ask for the pcb for the indicator as well. I'm quite capable of building it myself, but my pcb fabrication starts and ends at sending it off to one of the online mobs. I understand you did yours on a mini cnc?
as a rough indication, the optics are about 20mm x 25mm or so, the leds are on 20mm stars. Would you be able to post some idea of what the internals of your design look like? At a guess it looks like theres the front panel, some o-rings, two channels for optics, the leds, and then a back chamber for drivers / switches / battery circuit?
I was also thinking that it might be an idea to do the front panel out of acrylic/plexiglass, thoughts?
With the slight heatsinking that you did on yours, was that functional or aesthetic in purpose?
i will go for the easy one first, heatsinking. both functional and aesthetic. that design required the body to be machined from both sides so to hide any miss match in setups the heat sinking gave me a functional and sneaky way of hiding the evidence.
Right my twin shooter was based on the deal extreme drop in unit similar to this one HERE. So the internals are massive. The units are affectively 25mm in diameter for 7mm then 22mm for a further 23 - 24mm this includes the driver. The space in the back is for wiring and the pcb.
The first thing is are you think of using a driver for each light?
Do you want to minimize the light unit and have separate on / off switch remote or encase that on the battery? I am not opposed to develop something completely new as i like a project. i quite like the ayup light but that can be improved. i have taken some pictures of the case so if you want to PM me with your email address i can send them on.
I'm looking for something designed like that blue housing there but slightly larger. I like universal parts when possible so if something breaks I can swap it out easy. My thinking is 3 x MCE 900lm in a housing like that all finned out with the smallest fan built into it with two fan speeds (hi and low). I had a 5v fan before but can't find it right now to measure it's sizing but that would have been something I'd us on the under belly of the light to give it extra cool down if I was pumping max light but not bombing down hills. So I'm looking at something 900lm x 3 = 2700lm x .85 lens effeciency = 2295lm on the head. >
To answer your question, yes i'd be running each led off a separate driver.
First, i'll just say that to be honest, your design, as is, would work for me so long as there was some sort of 'base' to put the led stars on, since yours is a tube completely through.
I put this together quickly after work, what are your thoughts? I know it is fairly complex, but there are quite a few areas that can be cheapened. The bevel on the outer edge can go happily, and the depressions for seating the stars is optional. The inside edges of the fins are only shaped with the curve for ease of drawing, i imagine machined they'd just get the shape of the toolhead, which is fine.
I havent put the spaces for the leds/switches in the back panel as i figured they'd be apparent. I'd probably keep the switching mechanism on the light for now, but since its modularish, you could really just remachine a back end if you wanted switches elsewhere and less bulk on the light.
If you think this design is too easy (if so, im jealous) then it would be pretty awesome to bring the side fins 5mm forward and back so the panels fit -into- the block rather than sitting on the outside.
I have the sketchup file if you want to have a poke around. I've really only guessed at some measurements. I assumed 3mm bolts to hold it together, and 27mm - 28mm to hold the star and optic. (cant remember optic length, i assumed 25mm). gave 40mm of depth for rear components, didnt mark in the wiring holes for the leds as i would probably do them last minute with a dremel, little 1mm holes in the star gaps. The whole thing is roughly 70x70x27mm.
I also kind of did this in a way that you could machine a long bar of material, cut the sections apart, then take out the internal areas, should you want to build multiple.