Prototype Delrin Canister

OK guys, due to the expense and extra time consumed during the building of a full delrin canister with latches, I have decided to redesign my canisters to make them simpler to assemble and cheaper to produce. Here is what I have come up with.

It's a threaded lid design using no latches. By doing this, a savings of about $18 on latches and some labor is achieved. Also, during CNC operation, a couple of steps are eliminated (mainly locating and drilling latch holes). This takes the machinist quite a bit of set up time and thus cost!!!

I would like to see what everyone's thoughts are on this canister. Another benefit of no latches is the elimination of a possible entanglement point and a failure point as the latches are installed with stainless screws into very thin plastic (1/4") which can strip out easily. Oh, and one more thing, the canister can be made with a thinner wall since the need for a 1/4" wall for screws is no longer there.

This one has a single o-ring seal, but I may add another one at a later point. Right now it does not have a switch guard either. That will be designed later as well... Also, this canister is about the size of a slim line. It will accept up to 8 LiIon 18650 batteries.

This is just a prototype so I have no idea what a CNC shop would charge to produce these in quantities yet.

Thanks
Hector

http://s535.photobucket.com/albums/ee355/350xfire/Prototype canister/?action=postupload

Your link does not show any latchless cannisters.

Also it would save us all aot of time just posting the pic on the thread instead of a link to it.

I used a latchless delrin design for awhile. To be honest I didnt like it and never used it in any of my own personal lights.

The design used a tripple start thread which meant that the lid would only rotate about 450 degrees. This was good because it allowed for thick stongs threads but didnt take up too much space. It also meant that the cable didnt get too twisted when you put the lid on or off. But even though even the 1 & 1 /4 turns still caused issues with the cable and in the end I had to attach the battery pack to the lid so the cannister rotated around the battery pack and lid.

The other problem was due to my magnet and reed switch set up. Due to the triple start thread there are 3 posistions the lid can be in in relation to the can. But only 1 position would let the switch work. Making alignment marks on the lid and can is easy enough but some of my customers had problems understanding how to put the lid on properly. An issue solved by practice and it shouldnt even be an issue with you toggle switch design.

As for single O rings. Is it an axial or a radial O ring? I prefer to use one of each. It does not increase machining time by much or cost yet it makes the light far less likely to leak.

Pack:
If this site would make it easier topost pics I would do so more often. I'm not into spending 20 minutes posting pictures...

Anyway, here they are, sorry for the bad link

http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/ee355/350xfire/Prototype%20canister/DSC00795.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/ee355/350xfire/Prototype canister/DSC00797.jpg

[over-size images replaced by links - DM51]

Oh, hell, now they are too damn big and they are side by side and blah blah blah... Let the bitching begin... lol!

Oh, and I just figured you would turn the can upside down, screw the top in place then flip back over.

They are too big and dont fit in my laptop screen!!!!! LOL

Photobucket has a handy resize tool.

It looks very nice and clean.

Unless the battery pack is a loose fit you will have issues. Even if it is loose the twisting may cause issues long term. May I suggest some sort of cradle that attaches the pack to the lid. Its quite easy to do. Perhaps 2 dowels that protude out of the lid and then just tape the battery pack to them.

Packhorse said:

They are too big and dont fit in my laptop screen!!!!! LOL

Photobucket has a handy resize tool.

It looks very nice and clean.

Unless the battery pack is a loose fit you will have issues. Even if it is loose the twisting may cause issues long term. May I suggest some sort of cradle that attaches the pack to the lid. Its quite easy to do. Perhaps 2 dowels that protude out of the lid and then just tape the battery pack to them.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I normally size it down in my camera and then upload to the forum directly, but since I was not going to upload I did not size them down. I will next time.

What would be cool to do would be to use one of those really nice holders that holds multiple cells and use a twis on/off on the canister lid. This way you get rid of the switch. However, that would need a multi o-ring set up to be done without flooding the light if you accidentally leave it off (lid out).

Or build the battery holder onto the lid... Now you got me thinking again!!!

How about recessing the O ring into the cannister? should be easy to do. That will add to better sealing and also protection for the O ring.

I think a that twisting the lid to turn the light on is a bad idea. Chances are it will be quite stiff and there may be the chance of someone unscrewing it by mistate and have it flood.

Twist on the base of the light may be a better idea. But personaly I think its hard to beat a reed switch.

Yeah, the more I think about the twist top the more I don't think it's a good idea. I would love to see a piezo circuit to turn on/off. This way no switch guard to worry about.

350xfire said:

Pack:
If this site would make it easier topost pics I would do so more often. I'm not into spending 20 minutes posting pictures...

Click to expand...

it doesn't take 20 minutes to hit this button when you post a message: but it needs to be uploaded somewhere first. Imageshack gives you the option to choose the size when uploading the picture.

350xfire said:

I would love to see a piezo circuit to turn on/off. This way no switch guard to worry about.

Click to expand...

I think Klem has a working circuit here: Piezo toggle switch by Klem.
I never tried it though.

Johan

Never used piezo switches before. Will any pressure on them make them turn on? If so why dont they turn on at depth pressure? Is it sudden changes in pressure?
Anyway what is stopping something in your gear bag bumping against it and turning it on. I guess with a piezo you could always recess it in the lid or better yet mount it on the light head.
Still, it does require another hole to be made that has potential to leak. Better than a toggle but still not as good as a reed. Much cleaner though I guess.

Packhorse said:

Never used piezo switches before. Will any pressure on them make them turn on? If so why dont they turn on at depth pressure? Is it sudden changes in pressure?
Anyway what is stopping something in your gear bag bumping against it and turning it on. I guess with a piezo you could always recess it in the lid or better yet mount it on the light head.
Still, it does require another hole to be made that has potential to leak. Better than a toggle but still not as good as a reed. Much cleaner though I guess.

Click to expand...

Yes, I have yet to answer these questions myself as I have never used them either. I have 6 of them in the garage but never used.

350xfire said:

I have 6 of them in the garage ....

Click to expand...

QUite possibly the best reason to use them!!

Hi, somebody asked me a dive light that could be delivered quickly today, and you produce some of the finest canister here.

how mush for one of the pictured canister with one of your beautifull gland ? price for switch and no switch

with this thickness can you make me one that hold 4 group of 4 18650 li-ion

quick estimation is appreciated

kaouchouque AT hotmail DOT com


thanks

PM sent, let me know if you did not received it since my computer did something stupid when I hit send.
Thanks
Hector

350xfire said:

Yeah, the more I think about the twist top the more I don't think it's a good idea. I would love to see a piezo circuit to turn on/off. This way no switch guard to worry about.

Click to expand...

I have 2 canisters with the same design and I prefer them to latches, of course that twist the top is a very bad idea, mines because are very long and boring it's very difficult they open on both sides and are charged thru the bottom.

I'm building another one open only on the top but has a port for the charger.

350xfire said:

Oh, hell, now they are too damn big and they are side by side and blah blah blah... Let the bitching begin... lol!

Click to expand...

Yes, they are too big, and no, it is not funny. It's a nuisance. Please read Rule 3.

350xfire said:

I did not size them down. I will next time.

Click to expand...

No, you will not wait until next time - you will do it straight away, please.

DM51 said:

Yes, they are too big, and no, it is not funny. It's a nuisance. Please read Rule 3.

No, you will not wait until next time - you will do it straight away, please.

Click to expand...

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOkay! I will hold my laughter inside of me next time... and I will not wait until next time, I will immediately jump out of my seat and rectify this situation!!!

Packhorse said:

Your link does not show any latchless cannisters.

Click to expand...

Use this link instead:
http://s535.photobucket.com/albums/ee355/350xfire/Prototype%20canister

Is this better?
Oh, and here is a little project I did yesterday. I had this 12W HID light sitting around and a Maglite that needed a P7 replacement since the P7 failed so of course.... https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/281697

Yes, my pictures are smaller on the Maglite build... Moderator rest assured I have figured out how to do this and will.

No leaks after a day and a half in the pressure pot at over 250'...