I send him an email a while ago asking about the same mod your after Stoli, no reply
I send him an email a while ago asking about the same mod your after Stoli, no reply
It doesn't look good ... He does some crazy mods ... Really would like the XPG / XML combo mod but I could live with just a really nice neutral XPG centrally...
What would be good would be a neutral XPG and a mule nichia high cri !
Currently into SPYs....
My Lights In Detail
I would try an emitter swap out myself but am concerned about getting a XPG
focussed correctly with a LS20 reflector.
Which MCPCB would work best, the standard Cutter 10mm board or a Shoppe 6mm XPE board ?
Ideally I would like to swap the 3mm emitters out for some neutral ones ... can anyone point
me in the right direction ?
Hey guys! I appologize for not getting back with you. My internet is horrible! Most times I try to respond to a forum thread or respond to an email it either drops out or won't let me edit. Anyway it drives me NUTS so I just stopped going online as much and then got busy with work.
I'll be taking modification requests again starting next week.
The last several months have been spent working whenever and wherever possible followed by working in my shop to be set up more efficiently. All my machine tools were striped down, cleaned, painted, relubed and reassembled. I purchased a 9X18 lathe that ended up being a huge PITA...JUST got that running again. I spent the money I had saved for a car on a PM1127VF-LB lathe. That will be delivered monday or tuesday. Also got my milling machine running again.
As for the LS20 mods....the latest one to go out had my new heatsink design that increases mass and contact with the wall on the inside of the head helping to dissipate heat MUCH better.
The LS20.1, using the xp-g with an McR10 and an XM-L for the flood is also an option.
I'll be busy for the next week working on a few cars and setting up the new lathe. After that, I plan to be able to offer modding services again.
tx101, did you get my email? never heard back from ya.
Here's an update on what I've been working on.
The original LS20.1 heatsinks were aluminum and a pretty basic design that added a lot more mass than the stock heatsink and also more contact area to the head to improve heat transfer.
After much thought and a redesign, a new improved version was made from brass.
It's a huge step in the right direction for thermal management when running a HO GDuP driver to the emitters.
The brass slug is "stepped" in 3 places and has a tight fit to further help transfer that heat to the head. After turning the slug to its final size, it's seated in a special holder I made for the milling maching to have the holes drilled and pockets milled for the emitters and wires. Another holder was made to secure the brass finish rings so they can have their holes milled and the backside milled for wire clearance for the XM-L.
I feel much better about the new design even though it takes WAY more time to make than the simple design I previously used in my personal light.
About the only improvement I can see from here on out is a way to heatsink the drivers and make the drive assembly
and LED heatsink plug into each other for ease of assembly/disassembly.
Anyway, heres a few pics.
Well since my stupid cursor won't go where I want it to to edit my post I have to follow up! F-in computer pisses me off to no end!
Anyway, you can see the original LS20 heatsink on the right end followed by the new brass heatsink and finally the original LS20.1 heatsink on the left end.
That is an awesome design. Very impressive work. I hope that dual emitter set-up makes it into more than just the LS20.
You use a GDuP driver in a PD light? How does that work? My mod just adds extra modes to the spotlight, but not to the floodlight. Have you figured out a way to do both?
Looking forward to updating your light! Keep me updated on what you want to do!
Heres an updated pic of Obi's LS20.1B
Had a chance to use it in a dark wooded area and was completely impressed by the output of the XP-G powered by a GDuP on high!
The large contact/surface area really does its job of transfering the heat to the head!
So far I'm completely happy with this new heatsink design of the simple aluminum proof of concept design.
Last edited by DaFABRICATA; 04-13-2012 at 09:12 PM.
Wow, that looks superb. How much current is going to the XM-L and the XP-G and how does the UI work?
I presume that you mod users' existing LS20s and that you don't have any complete modded LS20s that you would consider selling?
Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine
Perhaps Don can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the flood driver outputs around 11V to support three LEDs wired in-series, with a ~3.6V voltage drop across each one. How does that work with the XM-L emitter?
sooner or later I need to get a lunasol 20 and have this done to it. wow nice job.
Question, could you make this set up in a p60 package? I think it would be awesome.... Et me know, I would be own or e if not two.....
+2 on the p60
Bumping an old thread instead of starting another. When I was building Obiwans LS20.1, he had expressed interest in trying to make the flood have multiple levels. While I had made a rough prototype, I wasn't confident in the long term durability and so the idea was set on the back burner and his build had to move forward.
My LS20.2 has been carried just about everyday since I bought it and it was only a matter of time before my interest in making the flood have more levels would be peaked again.
One of the obsticals that needs to be worked around or made different is the small screw that secures the driver/contact assembly to the heatsink. Most drivers aren't small enough to either sit sideways or stacked in order to fit inside the head.
I had a few of the 4 level Nichia 219 L10 flashlights that I intended to keep around to sell to someone in need. Well those had thier drivers stipped from them, stacked on top of each other and wired to work in the same fashion as the original but , with more levels.
Flood first followed by the reflector. The flood is still a high CRI XP-G and the reflector has a Nichia 219 behind it.
So now I have 4 levels for BOTH emitters. Now this light really has some utility!
Tighten the head until the flood comes on and then either tighten and loosen to change levels or cycle the clicky on the C-Pac. Tighten the head more and the reflector comes on. Tighten and loosen the head to cycle levels. If using the clicky to switch levels while both emitters are on, both will cycle simultaneously.
Currently this only works with the C-Pac since the flood stays on with the PD body. This is due to an unintended ground path that just needs to be isolated, then it'll work on the PD again.
The driver assembly isn't the most attractive piece but it fits and the small screw fits just fine. By using a flashlight under the driver to examine the electrical traces on the board looking where a notch could be made, I then carefully used my dremil to make the notch on both drivers to give clearance for that screw.
I see Obi sold his LS20.1 recently. Just figures some drivers are finally available that do what he wanted.
Last edited by DaFABRICATA; 04-23-2014 at 07:54 PM.
All I can say is "Wow"!
Oh, and I'd like mine to work like that too!
Marduke - Solitaire...I've seen matches which are brighter AND have a longer runtime. 光陰矢の如し
That does not make the idea any less appealing to me.
You finally got it working!! Well F-ing done.
You really are the man around here with these finest of fine mods.
I will regret letting that light go.
But if I am honest, my family cannot afford your work in the long run. I carry these...and I had to cut back somewhere. And your light, regardless of it's user condition...was simply the most unobtainium I had. Having nearly lost it, I decided it was someone else's turn.
Thanks for all you do. Your creativity is inspiring to me, even if the light is no longer in my pocket.
Last edited by Obijuan Kenobe; 04-09-2014 at 02:04 AM.
Stay sharp and bright for life.
Have your knife and light handy at all times.
Sent from a long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away.
Having bought Obi's LS20.1 I have to say it is an amazing mod for the LS20. I love every aspect of it! The fact that it is a user give it lots of character.
This new LS20.2 upgrade is truly amazing. The way the drivers have been stacked is wild. It's not a necessary upgrade for me though - the one level flood is a perfect option as anything further than what the flood can illuminate needs the reflector anyway. I'd be really curious to know in the long run if the multiple switching options may begin to get confusing as it seems that there is a high probability of the levels to get out of sync. Switching issues aside - this is a stellar mod!
Oh - one thing I would be curious about is if with the stacking it would be possible to replace the flood driver with a more efficient single mode low driver and keep the multi-mode reflector.
Last edited by ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond; 04-11-2014 at 05:16 PM.
How hard is it to get the drivers out? You have me intrigued.
Thanks for the feedback guys.
Kaichu dento, send me a PM, maybe I can help.
Obi, I really wish this option in drivers was available sooner so we could have made the LS20.1 to your specs. I've misplaced mine on a few occasions and the feeling is sickening. Luckily, it's always somewhere safe in the end. Partial credit must be given to you for input on what would transpire, so thank you for that!
SOYCD, I'm happy to hear the light is in your possession and that you're enjoying it. I'm a big fan of a nice flood beam and, for me, having multiple levels there allows much more flexibility in how my light will perform for the given task. I loved my Tri-V2 and carried it with me everywhere. It was kept in a protective case in my backpack so was never easily accessible and therefore not used as much. I also found that the aspherical lense wasn't used much either. The flood and reflector were by far the most used. I sold it since I could use the money for something else (Brigdeport mill). The LS20.2 gives me flood and reflector with multiple levels for each and so takes the place of the the Tri-V2 for my type of use. I usually have my 007T turbohead on hand when I need real throw.
The mode switching hasn't been a problem as long as you're paying attention to what you're doing. The only way to get out of sync is by human error.
As for finding another single mode driver to replace the stock one, I really have no idea since I've never looked into it. I'll take multi level every time so was just never considered. Sorry I can't be more help there.
Gunga, I answered this question in detail in your marketplace thread.
I spent some time isolating that ground, and it now functions as it should on the original PD body.
Twist for flood. Twist On/Off to cycle levels.
Twist further for the reflector and twist On/Off to cycle levels.
Generally I'll keep the flood on low if I'm using the reflectored beam but like the abilty to mix them.
The LS20.2 is now at a point where I feel very content with its form and functionality and look forward to an adventurous summer to put it through some tough use.
Last edited by DaFABRICATA; 04-18-2014 at 05:30 AM.