make all lights brighter, if you read this.

hi all, this is my first post here. im not perfect with writeing skills so please use this info for your good and try not to pick it apart too much.

its getting very frustrating reading in all types of reviews (wethier batteries or flashlights) about this lower amp rated battery runs my flashlight longer than this higher rated one. and also when the person is upset that thier p7 controler is only drawing 1.5 to 2 amps when all along the problem may be your battery is old(getting worn out), not fully charged, or to low a mahr rateing.

wether your powering a dc motor or a flashlight, 90% of the time when you run a higher rated battery (even agm, lead acid, nimh etc.) you will get more watts of power used which will shorten battery cycle. for example, useing my trust fire ssc p7 f15 with a 1800mah 18650 batt. ill get about 2.3 amps, but with a 2400 bat i can get closer to 3amps(= 3000milamps) also meaning i get more light. with the 2400 bat some have even complained thier light gets hotter.

this is normal and a good thing if you want more lumans on high. this is a nice thing about haveing a low mid high light is turning it on high for a few minutes when playing or searching then going back to mid or low for work.

the easyest way to test this and also check how good your battery is with it fully charged. with you meter on amps with the back cap off touch one lead to threads on case and other the to battery in your light. with a newer battery your not that interested in voltage while testing , just amperage. of course you never want to discharge it too deep or wont take a charge. you could manuly bring it back up but thats another post.

if anyone feels they can explain this better knock yourself out. as it says in the bible in proverbs a multitude of counslers brings wisdom. i have had a love of batterys since i was around 5yrs old and even learned on my own how to charge a battery from another one. also ive done just about everything your not suposed to do like blowing up batteries and also hosed off acid with my water hose on a guys face who installed his charged batteries wrong on his truck. but thats how to learn under controlled expermenting. also the love of lights is included since 5.

its truly amazing how far lights have come in the last 10 years. i hope this will help everyone get the most enjoyment from thier lights. btw im waiting for my first ssc-50 , the aurora sh-40 33615 Aurora SH-40 Luminus SST-50 5-Mode 1000-Lumen Memory 33615 Aurora SH-40 Luminus SST-50 5-Mode 1000-Lumen Memory

ATTENTION MODERATOR, IM NOT SURE WHICH POST TO PUT THIS IN AS IT APPLIES TO ALL POST. IF YOU FEEL PEOPLE WILL BENIFIT FROM IT CAN YOU PUT IT SO ALL FORMS WILL SEE IT. THANKS AND HAVE A NICE DAY

Just a small hand of help. Every two or three sentences press 'Enter' twice to leave a space between each section of writing.

I makes it easier for your readers.

It also helps your post look better thought out and it's easier to quote from. There's also a dedicated section for electronics and batteries. One of the mods will probably move this there.

:welcome:

and a great post, easy reading for a total battery noob like me but it would be easier to read if separated into paragraphs

well as i said writeing wasnt my specialty in high school. its like i tell my friends its a good thing that i can fix things, if i couldnt id be in trouble. my hope is that it doesent get moved to batt only because then people looking thru flashlight post would miss this as it mostly pertains to makeing our flashlights (works of art. or as i tell my wife who hates everything i do let alone flashlights its male julery (cant spell it) thats functional and will last a life time. not crash like my rc planes and then im looking at a 100 to 200$ pile for the trash can.

:welcome:

A 5 year old kid with batteries! Sounds like a pretty normal childhood for a CPF'er. Some of the old-timers here know so much you'd think they might even have had little LED's with them in the womb.

Just keep writing... it gets easier.

Excellent read, although I missed out on some of the intent...can you please expand (in laymans terms) about testing the amperage, as I'm a big fan of the B65's NICAD's ever since getting my M60L/LF's. I have a few that are rather old, and would like to be able to tell if they're definitely shot, or not.

Also, what effect would it have on them switching them from a low draw lamp (M60L) to a high draw lamp (M60/P60 incan, etc.). Is it best to keep batteries segregated (i.e. I only use B65's "A", "B", and "C" on low-draw lamps and use "D", "E", and "F" on the higher draw lamps). Is there any benefit gained from doing this? My common sense told me yes, but I would like to hear a more educated explination, and you seem to be the one who could explain it.

Again, very informative post, and would like to hear more. BTW, :welcome:.

Unfortunately I have a short attention span so I skimmed the article in the first post. All I got out of if it is that there is a extra awesome light that will mezmerize people and blow some lights away.

So anyone want to be a guinea pig and buy 1 to send to BigC or one of the sphere guys?

Welcome to CPF, 661randyg

I've added some paragraphing to post #1 which I hope will help. I'll move the thread to the Batteries section.

I think what you're saying is this:

For two rechargeable batteries with the same nominal voltage, say 18650 Li-ions rated at 1800mAh and 2400mAh, most of the time the 2400mAh one will have lower internal resistance and can therefore supply more current under load.

For lights with a max mode that is either direct-drive or has a sufficiently high current limit in regulation, the battery that can supply more current will run the light brighter.

This can lead to the apparent paradox where the 2400mAh battery will run the light for a shorter time (but brighter) than the 1800mAh one -- because the drain is higher.

That means plain runtime measurements (instead of output vs runtime graphs) can be misleading, and you are frustrated by people not understanding this when reviewing high-powered lights.

Accurate? (If so, I can understand why you didn't want it in the batteries subforum, as it applies more to specific lights than batteries in general.)

Quension said:

I think what you're saying is this:

For two rechargeable batteries with the same nominal voltage, say 18650 Li-ions rated at 1800mAh and 2400mAh, most of the time the 2400mAh one will have lower internal resistance and can therefore supply more current under load.

For lights with a max mode that is either direct-drive or has a sufficiently high current limit in regulation, the battery that can supply more current will run the light brighter.

This can lead to the apparent paradox where the 2400mAh battery will run the light for a shorter time (but brighter) than the 1800mAh one -- because the drain is higher.

That means plain runtime measurements (instead of output vs runtime graphs) can be misleading, and you are frustrated by people not understanding this when reviewing high-powered lights.

Accurate? (If so, I can understand why you didn't want it in the batteries subforum, as it applies more to specific lights than batteries in general.)

Click to expand...

hi, quension, you got it babe! its kind of sad when some people review perfectly good designed lights and badmouth them because they are not useing the correct rated battery in them. so we could say a light consumeing 750mah to 1amp on high is not quite as important as a light useing 2 to 3 amps on max. allthough i have seen results in 1 amp lights.

hi angel of war Excellent read, although I missed out on some of the intent...can you please expand (in laymans terms) about testing the amperage, as I'm a big fan of the B65's NICAD's ever since getting my M60L/LF's. I have a few that are rather old, and would like to be able to tell if they're definitely shot, or not.
yes, by doing amp draw test with a known load, ie certain flashlight that draws 3 amps with good battery, with a worn batt might only draw 2 amps.

if your still useing nicads, and want to bring them back to life, you can what a friend of mine calls pop them. say you have a dead or weak d size nicad rated at about 3 amps, take a larger batt. about 2 or 3 times the voltage and same for amps. pos. to pos neg to neg and just tap the wire to one of the side short and quick say 10 to 20 times until wire gets warm. wait till it cools and do it again. the more power you use the harder it is on the batt your trying to bring back to life. the white stuff you see forming around the + termanal is fibers like growing thruout battery and what your doing is breaking them loose. those fibers slowly short out the batt over time. start lower current and work up, if your too hard on it, it can leak, explode (very rarely) or just die. but if its getting ready to be tossed out its worth a try.

sorry, no more time gots to go do the work thing. see ya. randy