How to remove protection on 10440 batts?

fran82

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Feb 23, 2010
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I need to remove the protection circuit of a 10440.

I remember a thread in CPF forum that had photos about it, but searching in the forums, I cant find it

Any help? thanks
 

HKJ

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I have disassembled a protected battery here. But to be used with the circuit removed it needs some heat-shrink tubing around it.
 

flatline

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I have disassembled a protected battery here. But to be used with the circuit removed it needs some heat-shrink tubing around it.

Is that because the metal shell of the cell will short to the inside of the tube and bypass the switch?

Just testing my understanding of things.

--flatline
 

HKJ

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Is that because the metal shell of the cell will short to the inside of the tube and bypass the switch?

Just testing my understanding of things.

--flatline

With single battery lights that is the reason, but if you have two batteries in the light, you will short one of them.
 

LuxLuthor

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I had done the same in this earlier thread.

As HJK says the entire can is the negative Ve terminal. You need to insulate it from shorting against inside light body and other cells. If you have a tight cell fit in a particular light, good luck finding the 1-2 mil thickness shrink that the cell comes with. You can find it in clear, or you can use Kapton tape that holds up to heat.
 

flatline

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I am totally going to remove the protection from the ultrafire(?) 14500s I bought. I trust the protection built into my LF5XT way more than the circuit on the cells and the circuit on the cells is wider than the cell is, so I had to file it down to fit in the light (which makes me worry about shorting the cell).

In the case of the LF5XT, if the cell shorts to the inner tube, that should be okay since there is no switch between the base of the inner tube and the tube itself. Right? It just carries power to the head of the light?

Clearly, I need to examine the design of the LF5XT before I try this...

--flatline
 

LuxLuthor

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I am totally going to remove the protection from the ultrafire(?) 14500s I bought. I trust the protection built into my LF5XT way more than the circuit on the cells and the circuit on the cells is wider than the cell is, so I had to file it down to fit in the light (which makes me worry about shorting the cell).

In the case of the LF5XT, if the cell shorts to the inner tube, that should be okay since there is no switch between the base of the inner tube and the tube itself. Right? It just carries power to the head of the light?

Clearly, I need to examine the design of the LF5XT before I try this...

--flatline

I don't know anything about that light, but in theory if it is single cell, and the tube is just a typical, simple ground, and there is no way it can make contact with positive, I don't see any reason you would need the insulation.

Remember also though, that you will be handling and recharging it, so you should anticipate all the other ways you might accidentally short it==>Murhpy's Law.
 

kaptain_zero

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Sorry, not familiar with the light you are using but if it has a tail cap switch, you have to keep the body of the battery insulated. Twisty type lights will normally be fine, but I can still think of situations where that would depend on how the twisty operates.

I stripped the protection off one of my 10440 cells using a sharp knife and a diamond file to smooth out the broken welds so that they would not dig into the rather thin contact area of my twisty light. I replaced the insulation with masking tape.... not exactly the best solution but finding heat shrink that was thin enough turned out to be an issue for me...... and my sparsely populated wallet.:oops: My light (Preon) also has a clicky switch that I can add or remove, thus the need for insulating the battery.

Regards

Christian
 

KiwiMark

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I need to remove the protection circuit of a 10440

When I bought a couple of 10440 cells last year I couldn't find a single one with a protection circuit. Have they now made small enough protection circuits to be able to fit on 10440 cells? Where can these protected 10440 cells be bought from?
 

pae77

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I think DX sells some protected 10440s but they are longer than the unprotected ones and I believe there were some reports that they did not work in various lights. Fortunately, the light I use 10440's in (LF2XT) has over discharge protection built in so I feel fairly comfortable using unprotected 10440s in that light.
 

Ludwell01

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*Sorry to dig up an old post*

i too would like a little advice :help: .. after removing the PCB is it necessary to remove the wire that runs from end to end or can this just be left in place to save removing the wrapper from the cell?
 

Phlogiston

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*Sorry to dig up an old post*

i too would like a little advice :help: .. after removing the PCB is it necessary to remove the wire that runs from end to end or can this just be left in place to save removing the wrapper from the cell?

Definitely remove the wire and rewrap the cell.

If you leave the wire on, it might short the negative pole of your cell to the negative pole of the cell above it in a multicell light. Given that the positive pole will also be in contact with the negative pole of the cell above it, that would short your cell out with all the usual nasty consequences.

Same problem in a single cell light, except that the short would be through the light's positive contact point.

If the wire was long enough, the loose end might even be able to short your cell out directly. That could happen at any time: on the charger, sitting on your desk, or packed away in a storage box, for example.
 

Ludwell01

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Definitely remove the wire and rewrap the cell.

...the loose end might even be able to short your cell out directly. That could happen at any time: on the charger, sitting on your desk, or packed away in a storage box, for example.

Thanks for the info! That confirms what I thought but was hoping I could get away without needing to re-wrap the cell. :lazy:

Now to find some thin shrink wrap!
 
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