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Thread: Cree 12v Q5 DIY with heatsink from ebay question.

  1. #1
    Unenlightened
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    1

    Default Cree 12v Q5 DIY with heatsink from ebay question.

    Hi!
    Im about to purchase one of these
    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWNX:IT

    The specs states 12v in. But if i put it in a car the voltage would range from 12-14.4v.
    Just want to know if this is ok, as the seller doesnt really know.
    Also, might that thing in the picture be a 12v regulator already?

    thanks.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Cree 12v Q5 DIY with heatsink from ebay question.

    Yes. I like the cooler; seems to come with a snap on lens kit.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Cree 12v Q5 DIY with heatsink from ebay question.

    just read though the listing and it says in the description
    Input Voltage: 6VDC - 24VDC / 10AVC-16VAC

    so will be fine to use in a car

  4. #4
    Flashaholic* nein166's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    New York
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    Default Re: Cree 12v Q5 DIY with heatsink from ebay question.

    That looks like a 12v MR16 DX board and they have been known to throw off a lot of feedback noise. People report loosing radio signal with the lights on.
    Similarly I have 2 DX P60 Dropins for taillights and while in reverse I loose my radio signal. Only while the lights are on there is total static on a strong station.
    Maybe a filter capacitor across the input could help this? Not sure.

  5. #5
    Flashaholic* uk_caver's Avatar
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    Feb 2007
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    Central UK
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    Default Re: Cree 12v Q5 DIY with heatsink from ebay question.

    Quote Originally Posted by nein166 View Post
    That looks like a 12v MR16 DX board and they have been known to throw off a lot of feedback noise. People report loosing radio signal with the lights on.
    Similarly I have 2 DX P60 Dropins for taillights and while in reverse I loose my radio signal. Only while the lights are on there is total static on a strong station.
    Maybe a filter capacitor across the input could help this? Not sure.
    Filtering output and input, possibly with a combination of sizes of capacitor might well help that.

    Maybe some kind of choke in series with the input would also help?

    At least one upside of having consistent widespread interference is that it's fairly easy to see if what you try and do is actually making a difference.

    I guess in a vehicle, one problem interference-wise is that positive and negative supply travel by different routes, rather than being in nice parallel or twisted-pair cables.

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