I'm in for a dropin, 3spd. I assume I can purchase battery sleeves from you as well? I'll put Run4JC in for one as well...![]()
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I'm in for a dropin, 3spd. I assume I can purchase battery sleeves from you as well? I'll put Run4JC in for one as well...![]()
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I'm interested in the full light. So that would be $375? Does that include batteries?
And what best to charge it with? I don't think those bad boys are going to fit in the same charger I use for my 18650s. Maybe they do, I dunno.
These look amazing.
Any idea when they will ship out??
Put me down for a full unit...
Now just waiting for my JHanko LF3XT to be made.
My Lights In Detail
Seems there may be some interest...![]()
will this not run on on NiMH,s
i was hoping to run it on 1/2Ds
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thanks for the reply that's good news![]()
In for a full light!
what is the throw like on this dropin
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Any chance you will offer a copper heatsink to keep the lumens up for longer than 10 second runs?
Various Neutral Tinted Goodness.
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I'm definitely in for a full light with 4500K! I can't wait!!!!!!![]()
Last edited by jgraham15; 10-02-2010 at 09:46 PM.
First off sorry for the cavalier initial post. I should have been more specific since my goal is not to aggravate.
All the high lumen lights that undergo sphere testing show dramatic lumen drops within seconds due to the substantial heat dump due to the amount of wattage within a relatively small area. I am presuming at least 3.33 watts per emitter on high so 9x3.33=30 watts.
Without a nice chunk of copper copper to wick that heat away after 10 seconds on high I believe there will be about a 10+% lumen drop from what I have personally seen during light sphere testing.
I believe this is an issue for anybody designing a light that uses that much power.
Take a look at this post. Both lights are essentially identical except for the copper vs aluminum heatsink & are using 30+ watts on high.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...&postcount=910
If you look at the percentage & ignore the likely Vf differences of the luminus led there is a hard to ignore difference between the two heatsink materials.
Travis
p.s. I bring this forward because I recently received your EDC(in Al for better thermal perf.) & love your craftsmanship. But since I own a Vara 2K light I know how important in my opinion copper is to these "light howitzers".
Various Neutral Tinted Goodness.
I have no plans to offer this in copper as at $275 now it is very expensive. 2" x 2" of copper would be 10x the cost of the aluminum and I think in "Real Word" use the difference of a couple hundred lumen's when where talking 3000 LED lumen's does not warrant the cost or more so the weight increase.
Those tests are great but are really not accurate in my opinion. You need to do the same test with 2 identical heatsinks in each material, to make the test accurate you need to use the same LED and regulated power source.
Mac
Last edited by cmacclel; 10-03-2010 at 06:39 PM.
www.macscustoms.com
*Note* Shipping Insurance must be requested.
I would be in for a complete light but not with a tailcap switch, one just like in the first post![]()
Mac-
I think I'm going to need to order one of these when you make them available. Please add me to any list you may have.
Thanks.
I'm in for a light and tailcap.
"Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional"
Looks amazing matey!
+1 Complete light $375.
Andy
Quite a nice upgrade compared to an original Mag, I think
Any more info on the converter : are levels regulated, what's the input voltage range for full regulation, what about the UI : how do you switch levels, is last level remembered... Also is the switch a reverse or forward switch ?
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That is AWESOME!!!!!!!
Thank you for blazing the trail yet again. I just stumbled across the thread and it predates mine but I was planning a similar build and you've just shown me in terms of output and 'head end' what things could potentially be. Mine is nowhere near as sophisticated as this masterpiece though (resistored drive - no fancy electronics).
The beamshot is fantastic.....
Stock switch will be fine. We routinely run ROP 3854 bulbs in the stock switch and PR base and these high-power incans are 4.2 amps. Full-blast-drain-the-whole-pack 40 minute runs on Sub-C NiMH - no issues.
Ginseng, one of the original hotwire gurus, has taken these WAAAAAAAY beyond that into the region of 10 amps. I wouldn't go that high but 5A should be no issues at all.
I would be interested in a complete light with tailswitch and finned head.
full light and if ur not gonna offer a full light id want the drop in
Tino you can see in the picture I'm using the Lux-Rc modules also you can see the voltage range is listed at 4.8-9.6v you can go as low as 3v but will see slight output drop. As of right now there is no mode memory after 10 seconds of powering down it will revert back to starting on high. You switch levels like any of the tailswitch mode changing lights by interrupting the power via switch. My tailswitch is a reverse type. If you install the drop-in in a standard 2d mag with 2x 26650 cells it's a forward type.
Mac
www.macscustoms.com
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So it's perfect for a 2 li-ion cells (5-8.4V range) configuration.
thanks for the info !