E-can dimension

Wayne or McGizmo, can one of you please tell me how thick the "lip" of the E-can is?

I'd like to get started making a heatsink for my E1e mod, but I need to know how far into the bezel the lip of the E-can protrudes. Thanks for the info.

The Lip is .105" thick. The overall height of the E-can is .350". For an E bezel mod, target the end of the E-can (battery side) being flush with the end of the E bezel. This will allow the battery tube to go .245" into the head until it contacts the lip. This will "typically give you .005" of gap between the E bezel and the raised shoulder of the battery tube. For what it's worth, I have found that for a HD LED, the face of the sink plane, where the LED slug is mounted, should be the same plane as the rear face of the reflectors primary bulkhead (not the raised lamp standoff). For a SE, the sink plane should be about.025" back from the bulkhead plane. I put a .025" counter bore in the face of my E modules.

Hope this helps. I am planning on drawing up a suggested "front end" for the E bezels. When I have these dimensions, I will provide them and a simple dwg to anyone interested. I also hope to find some shop to make some of these in a small production run. I would like to get them HA so there will be no need to concern oneself with isolating the LED slug in applications using the DownBoys.

- DOn

Thanks, Don! Just the info I needed.

Since you mentioned the DBs, why does the LED slug need to be isolated with this converter board? I thought only the red/amber LEDs shared a lead with the slug.

Don,

Great! Please be sure to think of us non-elite E series owners as well... I have an e2 and an e1 (specifically sought out non-elite models) with the intent of modding to LS. Now waiting to see what comes of E-can and particulary,
front end. Thanks!

Chief Wiggam,

Wayne could probably answer the DB question better but the slug of the LED is not isolated electrically from the LED leads and in the case of the wizards and now the DB's the ground or (-)In must be isolated from the cathode and anode of the LED; instant death otherwise!

Kill-O-Zap,

The E bezels require boring of the complete rear face of the reflector bulkhead. If the pocket clip can't be removed, this is a major PITA. As I recall, after boring, the pocket clip hole is now exposed or open from the outside to the inside. Good luck with your mods of this baby! If you want more of these, I think I have a few in GM and HA and probably a black somewhere. No Thanks!

- Don

OK, Confession time.

I bought a mini lathe about a month ago. Been trying to get up to speed on it. I bought it mainly for fixtures, and new product development. As such, here is one of the first parts to be built based on a drawing to verify mechanical fit and function.

It is the Etop for the ECan. Together this module drops into a E series head after the hole has been enlarged.

[

Wayne

Sweet! Otokoyama was kind enought to whip up one that looks exactly like it...imagine that /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Except the one he made for me has the counterbore for the SE.



Now if I could just buy some E-cans /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Cool guys! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

- Don

The ECans are up for sale on the shoppe. You have two version. Straight brass or nickel plated.

Remember to isolate the LED slug if you are using a driver that requires it to be isolated.

Don,

Ok, so reading between the lines then, I think what you are saying is a very enthusiatic NO huh /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif. Still, I am highly encouraged about the feasibility of what I want by Y2Kirk1028's impressive E module. I dream of ending up with something very similar to that, perhaps making use of the E-Can if possible. Yes, even with the reduced diameter bore, the clip hole opens to the inside of the light as you suspected, and as Kirk's image reveals, but I don't consider that a major problem, and it could probably be plugged up with some epoxy or loctite if desired.

Y2Kirk,

I did not comment on your module in the other thread, but I won't hold back now. I LOVE it! I want one!

Dat2zip,

Since you're already working on an E-Top for E-elite (it appears) will you also consider an E-Top for E-non-elite, something resembling Kirk's? Pleeeeezzzz? I'm willing to sacrifice one or even two junky E heads in the name of progress, if that helps...

Kill-O-Zap,

Yes the E-can would work fine for the rear end in a non eliite E bezel. I am guilty of past considerations of the non elite E bezel where I would have wanted to locate the driver further forward which would require boring out the head. I hadn't really considered it after the E-can but can now see you guys are right! I just took out a LA from one and dropped in an E-can. The battery tube snugs up against the E-can seated on the stock bulkhead perfectly. You could make a reduced diameter front end (Pedestal) that could seat on the inner counter bore of the E-can. Looking at Y2Kirk's module, the Ecan would replace the large Al disk and all parts aft of it. I would *guess* that you would want a pedestal of .200" rising above the lip of the E-can for a HD and probably .175" tall for a 1W SE.

I just made my first module for an E bezel with the E-can and I sure wish I had these in the past!! Having the driver digested within the battery tube really reduces the required "train" length. The E-can will allow for simple mods in many cases where less work will need to be done to the host. I would even consider moding a none elite E bezel now since all you need to do really is drill out the lamp hole.

Below is my first E-can for an E1e. It's a red SE driven by BB400 for a fellow CPFer.



Being able to solder a lead wire to the E-can for the ground lead really beats mechanical or electrically conductive epoxy connections I had to use before.

- Don

All right! That's what I've been waiting to see. I've got my E-can's on the way. I'm excited...can you tell /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Kill-O-Zap, thanks for the compliment. I've since re-modded the module to accommendate an NX-05 within the reflector, as I was dissappointed with the short throw the reflector produced. Perhaps with an R emitter and a BB700, it might very well match the NX-05 in throw. As for the screw hole being exposed, I don't think that would pose any problems. In fact, I've replaced the orginal hex screw with a longer one that secures the module, so it won't accidently drop out when changing the battery.

Don, 0.200" (5mm~5.5mm)is roughly what I've came up with also (it was a PITA to figure that out). Having said that, with these "building blocks" it should make things easier for everyone now. Thanks again for making them available.

Looking forward to see everyone's mods.

Great, so will E-Tops be available from the Shoppe soon?

So, if I'm reading this right, the E-Cans are not useable in an E-Series without the E-Top, however the E-Tops are not available?

Ray,

You are correct. The E-can takes care of the rear end for electrical contact and driver accomodation. A host specific front end, in this case, the E-top is required to host the LED as well as position it acordingly to the architecture of the host. Wayne Y. has some "E-Tops" on order for the module package to be hosted by the E bezels.

- Don

Understood. Thanks Don.

E-tops are ordered. They will be called ESinks. Should be here near the end of the month or early next month.

The only version I ordered are for the side emitter.

Wayne

Two quick questions:

1) Will the e-can accept an actual BB or MM sandwich sans luxeon instead of just the board?

2) Are Q or R ranked SE's available anywhere? (I know this one is off topic, but if the ESinks are designed for SE's... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif )

Jon

StoneDog,

I think the current BB's and MM sandwiches will fit with the surface of the board just a bit high of the lip of the E-can. I used an old proto sandwich which was actually recessed some but I think Wayne has increased the sandwich thicknes. Below a pic of old proto (on the right):



- Don