Hey guys I just received the new Surefire product catalog and noticed they are introducing a 6PX Defender sometime this year anyone know if the emitter is the same or if there are any differences besides the crenulated bezel?
Hey guys I just received the new Surefire product catalog and noticed they are introducing a 6PX Defender sometime this year anyone know if the emitter is the same or if there are any differences besides the crenulated bezel?
It looks to be the same as the other X series, with only one high mode like the Tactical models. Has a clicky though. I want one!
Good im excited to hear that it has a clicky I also want one now!
Are there any beamshot comparsions of a G2X/6PX versus a Quark 123^2 or Malkoff M61/M61L? I want to find out if these Surefires are competitive in today's 2xCR123 market, I just cannot seem to find them. I can't even find a regular review using the search bar. Can someone point me out in the right direction of a review? I just purchased mine and am loving it. The beam is absolutely flawless and the tint is pure cool white.
That's good to hear that yours has a nice beam, just bought mine and anxiously waiting for the mail.. I haven't seen many detailed reviews for the X series either, seems to me like a great opportunity to compare Surefire to the other market options. I just wish the price didn't inflate so muchI probably would've bought two..
Just to chime in- I have the 6PX Pro and like it more after having used it a few months than I did when I first recieved it as a gift. The tint on mine is definitly on the warm side and it is sized prefectly for 17670. I actually just tried one out tonight, trustfire 17670, and it seemed about as bright as with two primaries. Mine will do the mode change on two cr123's if I hit it on right spot. However, I can not get it to change modes by hitting it when running the single cell 17670. Also I compared it side by side with a brand new 6PL and what a difference. The 6PX has such a nicer, brighter beam, nice clicky switch with lock out and perfect amount of space for laynard ring. The only negative I can find is its lack of lego-ability with led drop ins. But thats why I have a C2 and 6P![]()
When comparing the beamshot of my 6PX Pro to the E2DL, LX2, and Malkoff M60/M61 against a white wall, the 6PX has a narrower/smaller hot spot and nearly as much flood as the other two Surefires. Probably close to half the diameter. Outdoors, the throw is about equal, but the E2DL, LX2, and Malkoffs are noticeably brighter in terms of flood and getting a little more throw.
This one is Ultrafire LC17670 1800 mAh and it is snug but still drops out without having to shake the light. You did not ask but for other readers the beam is as described by previous posters. Nice diffused hotspot smoothly transitioning to an even spill. It does not throw as far as Surefire lights with the Tiros optic such as the E2L or L1. It is impressively bright on the high setting however and all I have run it on so far is the 17670. Definitely a best bang for the buck in a Surefire light.![]()
Can someone tell me which clickie tailcaps work with SF 6PX Tac? I know that Z59 works.
Toons, thanks for the reply! I'll be sure to try the Ultrafire 17760 when I get my G2X Pro. Looking forward to getting it, damn that slow international mail!
Quick Review: FM34 beam diffuser
I took a gamble when I ordered my 6PX Pro, I added a beam diffuser made by Surefire.
-I prefer a wider beam for night trail running
-I usually will custom cut some holographic film and press-fit to a flashlight lens
What I like about the FM34
-Good beam angle
-no hot spots
-no light leakage
-can flip the diffuser up and out of the way
-great quality, attention to bullet proof design
What I don't like about the F34
-adds extra bulk to flashlight, making it un-pocketable
-I would like a glass lens for protection (instead of plastic)
Overall, great addition, I will always buy one of these for my 1.25" bezel lights!
Ah the age-old compromise: scratchable but shatter-proof vs lead-scratchable but shatterable...
There are also weight considerations and the not insignificant issue of transmissivity and the associated durability of coatings such as anti-reflection coatings...
Chemically or mechanically frosting glass weakens it. Milking it may not provide the complete non-imaging diffusion required.
Hey guys im looking into buying a 6px pro but just confused about the tactical runtime...on the packages im seeing it says 2.5 hours in 200 but on surefire's website it states 2.0 hours???? need clarification thank you...
I haven't done a runtime test as I am without an integrating sphere but you would most likely get 200 lumen up till 2 hrs and later diminishing down to 60 lumen at 2 1/2 hrs. Anything 60 lumen and above are considered tactical brightness by Surefire.
The love of light is the reason why I don't walk in darkness. But darkness has it's beauty...Sadly, my lights are much more beautiful!!
Beam shots Night Trekking with HDS high CRI and McGizmo Haiku & Mule high CRI
How do you compare it to the z2s like with throw? and beam tint? and thank you for your quick responses again...
Runtime (by FL1 standards) is when the light reaches 10% (IIRC...amybe 20%???) of starting lumen out-put. "Tactical Runtime" is is when the light drops below 50 lumens. Surefire considers "Tactical Lumens" to be 60 for incandescent and 50 for LED's (since our eye's react more to the "white" in the LED's).
Looks like it's 2 hours of tactical, and 2.5 of "useful" (on high).
My two G2Xp's have creamy white tint and my 6PXp has a greenish tint.
Just a coincidence and probably has nothing to do with the fact that it is G2X vs 6PX.
All my Surefire, except the AZ2 and Stratum, have a creamy white tint.
I don't have a Z2S, but since the Z2S uses the same Luxeon K2 TFFC emitter as the AZ2 and Stratum, all 3 should share the same tint.
The love of light is the reason why I don't walk in darkness. But darkness has it's beauty...Sadly, my lights are much more beautiful!!
Beam shots Night Trekking with HDS high CRI and McGizmo Haiku & Mule high CRI
Just got my G2X Pro today, smaller than I expected, it has a warmish green tint on low but a very pleasnt creamy white tint on high. The green is not unbearable though like my S2 Quark. Overall a very nice light but not the most water resistant; I found water in the threads after taking it into the shower and shaking it around.
YEah, the nitrolon one's aren't the best when it come's to water-proof-ness. The E-series with the Z57 clickies have shown to be the "most water resistant" to me. My lights regularly get "cleaned"...in the shower...LOL!
Well, from my understanding, there should be no water in the threads, because the O ring is before it; water should stop at the O ring and not ingress forward. Once the water gets through the threads, it will get into the light body itself. This happened when I placed my Fenix LD20 in a bottle of water and water creeped past the O ring and through the threads, and then into the head/reflector. (Faulty light)
Lol, I do that too, good test for most lights for water resistance also. What you said about the E series being the most water proof just makes me want an E2DL even more!YEah, the nitrolon one's aren't the best when it come's to water-proof-ness. The E-series with the Z57 clickies have shown to be the "most water resistant" to me. My lights regularly get "cleaned"...in the shower...LOL!
Last edited by CheepSteal; 05-30-2011 at 08:23 PM.
There have been some reports of water ingression on the E2DL. The weak link is in the tail cap.
The love of light is the reason why I don't walk in darkness. But darkness has it's beauty...Sadly, my lights are much more beautiful!!
Beam shots Night Trekking with HDS high CRI and McGizmo Haiku & Mule high CRI
True...but I still hold firm to the E-Series being the most "water-proof" of the lot...even though the millenium series come stock with double O-rings. While the tail-caps may be the weakest link, they're still a good bit more waterproof than the L, C/P, and definitely the G-Series...from my experience (and what I've read).
5/16 plumbing O-ring (thicker than usual) from Wal-Mart. Package of assorted O-rings, .99 cents.
Remove tailcap on G2, insert new O-ring. Replace tailcap. Problem solved. And you get rid of the ugly gap too.
"The World is insane. With tiny spots of sanity, here and there... Not the other way around!" - John Cleese.
"The World is insane. With tiny spots of sanity, here and there... Not the other way around!" - John Cleese.
I've been banging my G2X Pro around and I've noticed that it changes modes quite readily when hit or dropped, is this normal?
Does anyone know how that actually happens circuit-wise? I wanna know if this is going to develop into a problem into the future.