Irs amazing to me that with the new colors that international orange wasnt one of them.
Irs amazing to me that with the new colors that international orange wasnt one of them.
FAILURE TO PLAN ON YOUR PART DOES NOT CONSTITUTE AN EMERGENCY ON MY PART.
Not to get too off topic, but excuse my ignorance; what is with the hype of orange gear items? Not trying to troll, honest question.
Makes items easier to spot, maybe?
I have got some issues with my 6px pro as well, and sent mine into for repair/replacement. Well they notified me they were in fact replacing the system. This thread had me concerned what exactly "replacing the system" meant, as I read JonnyLunar's experience. I emailed them asking what their procedure was when "replacing the system" This was their response.
"Flashlights that are sent to us for warranty-repair but deemed un-repairable by our warranty-department are replaced with flashlights from our “Demo” inventory.
This warehouse is stocked with flashlights that are purchased and returned to us within 30-days. These lights are received and re-inspected by our quality control to ensure they are un-used, in proper functioning order and performing to our minimum specifications. They are then loaded with fresh batteries and re-sealed (usually in a plastic-bag)."
So there you go. I should be getting my replacement 6px pro in the mail via ups today, so you can bet I will inspect it good when I get it.
Has anyone been able to remove the bezel from a 6PX Pro and replace it with the bezel from a 6PX Defender?
"I don't fail, I succeed at finding what doesn't work." -Chris Titus
I'm not sure if this has been covered in the past, most of the searches I get are rather vague on this issue. I just wanted to report that I have successfully run through a complete cycle of 2 AW RCR123 in my 6PX Tactical from 4.2v down to 3.5v. It seems to handle 2 RCR123s just fine. I noticed no excessive heating and the light seemed to have the same brightness as on 2 CR123s. I measured the tailcap current with the RCRs and it came in around 550mA. With fresh CR123s it's around 760mA.
Anyway just thought I'd add this to the giant mass of knowledge here on these lights. Like I say this was with single mode 6PX Tactical. I'm not sure how RCR's would affect the dual mode Pro models, especially on the low mode. Perhaps somebody could give it a shot?
I've also run this 6PX Tactical on AW 17670 cell as well. It's a tight fit and it works, however because of the tight fit or perhaps because it's just a hair longer than 2 RCR123 cells, it causes the switch to be a little more stiff. (The twist on, push momentary type switch). My example seems to run a lot smoother with 2 RCR123 cells or 2 CR123 cells.
Update on my replacement 6px pro.
I was extremely disappointed upon opening, to find a nice 1" scratch on the side of the head of the light. This was my fear when told that a "new" replacement light was one that was previously bought by someone and returned within 30 days to surefire. I would expect a $100 flashlight to be nothing else than perfect, ya know. I emailed surefire about this, so we'll see what happens. I asked for a replacement in original, unopened packaging much like jonnylunar. We'll see. Here is a pic of said scratch.
Honestly, the very least they should do is send you one that's been refurbished so that it both performs and looks like new. You didn't buy a used SureFire with scratches on it. You shouldn't get one either. You buy a new car that breaks down, you bring her in for warranty repair work; last thing you expect is the Service Manager coming to you and saying, "Well, we can't fix the problem with the engine. So we're going to give you a replacement car. Exact same model, but it's been in an accident and the passenger's side was T-boned. We didn't bother fixing the dents. Here are your new car keys. Enjoy!"
"The World is insane. With tiny spots of sanity, here and there... Not the other way around!" - John Cleese.
I am with the others - I would expect a new light in mint condition fresh out of the box / inside the OVP but tested by the department that handled the whole case. Return / used lights as described by the Surefire rep should be sold as such - former demo lights/returned lights/refurbished lights. Reduced price, maybe reduced warranty etc. I must admit that I am glad that a) if I had any reason for a complaint, my dealer would be my first adress to turn to and I would expect to get a new light in return. b) I still have no confidence in the Pro line of lights. With a lego-able light, one could keep the unscratched host and just return the dropin.
I think I would b*tch about that one myself. You might want to try rubbing that scratch with a pencil eraser though...some scratches on HA lights are actually material from something else that rubbed against the light, they look bad, but might possibly be removed with an eraser. It's worth a try at least...
Why bother with the G2X / G2X Pro / 6PX / 6PX Pro when the P2X Fury is $108 & 500 LM?
That's the sad part...I didn't find out the Fury even existed until I already had four 6PX Pros, and a G2X Tactical.
Well, after expressing my disappointment with the "new" light they sent me, they agreed to have me send it back, in which they would then send me my requsted brand new 6px pro, still in it's factory packaging. So we'll see..
I finally got my 6PXPro back from Surefire's warranty service. They sent me a whole new light still in the packaging. Is there someplace I can plug the serial number in and find out how new this is? Surely they didn't send me one from the run with bad tail-caps? I just opened it up and gave several good slaps....can't get it to change modes from a bump! Looks like I got a good one.
I just got two. A G2X tactical tan and a G2X Pro yellow. The Pro on low has a terrible tint. It may be the worst I have ever seen. Hopefully I won't have any tail cap issues like I have been reading about.
I finally gave in and got myself a G2X Pro, since I was looking for a flashlight for walking with two modes. And I must admit that I really do like the Pro and its tint, even though I just discovered the preflash problem on my light. But I think I can live with it. Now I only need to give myself a good reason why a 6PX with its full alumium body would make any sense in my collection. Since there are no heat issues in the G2X lights, I see no really benefit in the 6PX type of body.
Has anyone had a long term issue with the G2X Tactical and an AW 17670 battery? I have been using said combo for a year (give or take) as a back up duty light. I just pulled the battery off the charger today and put it in the light, and I am getting maybe 1/4 of the light I am used to. I tried swapping regular CR123s and observed the same light patter. The output is way less than my old Surefire L7 on a battery that hasn't been charged in a long time. This is my first Surefire problem ever, despite owning 6 (6p, 9p, G2, G2X Tactical, L7, X300). I will try it again when I get home, but I am not happy about it.
Ok, I came home and tried it again. The light would not come on at all at first with either the 17670 or cr123 primaries. I tested the battery in my 6p with thru night xml drop in and it worked perfectly, so I know the battery is good. I put fresh primaries in the g2x again and it worked perfectly all of a sudden. I then tried the 17670 again, and it turned on, but was extremely dull, almost to the point of unusable. Have I fried the circuitry in my light?
Last edited by Shurefire; 07-14-2012 at 12:44 AM. Reason: It was a thru night drop in, not a nail bender
It is highly unlikely that you have fried the emitter since a single 17670 only measure 4.2 volts fully charged, way below the 6 volts tested by Surefire.
Now, let's talk about your usage habits. Did you run it for prolonged period till the light gets hot on the head? It could be a case of the LED dying due to overheating issues. Afterall, the nitrolon body on the G2X Tactical isn't really a good heat sink for proper thermal transfer. Look into the LED. Do you see a darkened spot? Is the beam now bluish?
No dark spots, and it worked just fine with fresh primaries after the initial failure to work just after getting home. Beam looks perfectly normal. The light did sit in a hot car all day, but I don't believe it received any direct sunlight, just sat inside the car (which is bloody hot here in Arizona). I have checked the battery in other lights, so I'm at a loss as to what has happened.
Try cleaning the metal contacts on the body tube and tail cap area with a Q tip and isopropyl alchohol. Maybe some loose grease is sticking on it causing poor electrical contact. Another thing you can try is pull out the spring on the tailcap a bit more as it may be a bit too compressed after long usage with the AW17670 cell. I realized my AW17670 is a tiny bit longer than 2 x CR123 put together so it could be possible that the spring might have been compressed. Honestly, I don't know what the problem is, but if doing all these could prevent you from sending the light back to SF, then I think it is worth it. Oh, and don't pull too hard on the spring. Last thing you want is the spring popping out and voiding your lifetime warranty.
Edit: forget the spring thing. I think if the spring is compressed, then CR123 shouldn't work as well but it still works in your case.
Ok, some weird voodoo is going on. After a few more attempts, I slowly put the battery back in, gently put the tail cap back on, and voila! it worked again. To ensure it was not a fluke, I took the battery back out and tried it again, only to find that it did not work again. More research led me to find that if I put the battery in with the label to one side (the AW 17670 will fit with label on, but only in two positions, as if there is more room on one side of the tube than the other) it will not work, but if I turn it around, it works normally. Very weird. I examined the inside, and it appears that the green circuit board on the backside of the head has slightly moved, exposing some of the metal on the backside of the head. I have no idea if this is what is causing the issue, but it would make sense that after being left in a hot car for a day, the heat could have shifted the board, making the contacts not as effective, depending on battery position. Of course, cr123s are not effected by this. Very very weird. No more leaving flashlights in cars, even my beloved surefire lights.
Try contacting Surefire. I am sure they would make it right for you.
There's a wire trace on G2X, 6PX and Fury lights that when cut disables low mode on the Pro models. It comes cut from the factory on the single mode tactical models. In the P2X Fury thread someone bridged the cut trace on factory cut single mode light and it turned on in low mode, but unlike the two mode lights it would not go to high.
So my theory is that the larger 17670 battery is somehow bridging the connection causing the light to come on at a lower output. Maybe the broken trace wires shifted closer together after prolonged use. Just a theory. If true I'm sure you could use a pen or something to separate the wires a bit.
Look at posts: 738, 766, 771 in the P2X Fury thread for more info.
Last edited by Slumber Pass; 07-14-2012 at 02:05 PM.
Thanks, I will have to look into this phenomenon. Fortunately for now it is working with the battery turned a specific way.
I picked up a G2X Pro at REI. It was $6 in the garage sale area - returned cause it wouldn't switch modes. I had pulled up Surefire's CS # and was ready to call when I thought I should check the batteries. 2.4 volts. 2 new 123's and it works great.
Only think I don't like is no clip or lanyard. Anyone attach a lanyard to it?
WOW! That's a screamin' deal! Great score!