SolarForce Lantern - Inspired by Gman

Solarforce Lantern in Shed of Truth - Gman
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgNdvu2XuZQ

Thanks to Gman for his inspiration - I want to replicate your idea but take it to the next level.


Need a little advice - Building a lantern/flashlight for my Countycomm.com XL bug out bag.

http://countycomm.com/bobxl.htm $39

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It is the one on the right the zippered compartment that is flashlight size near the bottom - The XL-BOB main compartment measurements: 12"Tall X 6.5" Wide X 16.5" Long

As I do not have this bag just yet I am going to guess that from the photo here I have 13.5 inches of storage length. I am guessing the designer was factoring in a typical 3d maglite -
Length:12.34 inches


So ---


Lantern Module

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15.99 off ebay with shipping


Extra Tube 18650 is $5.99


MCE or SST-50 39.99 vs 49.99


UNIQ Continuously Variable Tailcap with Glow Button for SureFire C / M / P / Z and other Flashlights

from lighthound - $19.99


Now here are the questions....

1. MCE or SST-50? which is brighter?

2.can I use 2 extension tubes or 3 with the space constraint I believe I have?

3.will 3 18650 push these emitters harder then say 2 18650's?

4. where am I going wrong with this project?

If you are seeing this gman where did you get the glow in the dark rope (is it paracord? and what size carbiner did you use?

Don't have a Solarforce with Extenders but I do have the Lanter head, a 9P+
A19 and a BOB-XL. The 9P+A19 & Lantern will fit in that flashlight pocket without issue. There's enough space left over to add the tripod in there too.

A worthy note on the LT1 Lantern, the frosty dome and the lens are plastic so you should take that consideration when running a high power LED for long periods of time.

In case you were wondering, yes a 3D M@G will fit in that pocket on the BOB-XL, I tried it with mines and it fit the pocket perfectly.

Wait, as long as you are at CC, think about picking up a Aircraft Cable Keyring and loop it through the top hole in the lantern.

I would go with the MC-E over the SST-50, from what I have seen the sst-50's don't give the efficacy in real light output for the power they draw down.

I got the glow in the dark paracord from Lighthound.com. I will measure my light set up as is tomorrow and get back to you. I use 2 18650's I believe I have additional extentions to measure it with.

Running 3 batteries will give you close to 12V. Its up to the driver you chose to be able to handle it. It will reduce current draw from batteries for better run time if it has good regulation. None will push the emitter harder if its regulated correctly you just get longer run time. I don't remember if the CVTC can handle that much voltage though. May be 9V is all it can handle and 2 amps. I have to go back and double check.

I will get back to you. G.

Appreciate that -


I want the uber brightness but will not run it that way for extended periods of time.. I figure a few bucks more for a brighter emitter is the way to go.


The keychain is the best option as it is cheap and slim...

The L2 series supports 1 x 18650 or 2 x CR-123, so the voltage combinations are:

3.7 volts (4.2 volts max) - 1 x 18650
6 volts - 2 x CR-123a primary
7.4 volts (8.4 volts max) - 2 x RCR123

I don't know what voltage you need to direct-drive an SST50. The SST50 drop-ins that we will be selling support 3.7 - 8.4 volts, I think.

Lighthound, Inc. Sales
http://www.lighthound.com
We have an SST90 LED drop-in that works off of 6 volts. We are currently out of stock, but we will have more in the next week or so. Soon we will also offer SST50 and MCE options.

The L2P is the way to go for the SST90 drop-in. You are correct that the extension tubes are HA II finish, not HA III like the L2P.

http://www.lighthound.com/Nailbender-Custom-Lites-SST-90-3-mode-drop-in-for-Surefire-and-compatible-flashlights_p_3486.html

Lighthound, Inc. Sales
http://www.lighthound.com

I am a newbie to this but the DRIVER?(whjat part of the flashlight is regulating that voltage?

I can see that the voltage output is determined by how many and what type of batteries you are running.

It appears I can have 3 18650 with this L2 setup - Not sure what voltage that is but the idea was to get a masterpiece turbo head and be able to switch between the 2.

Looking at the Solarforce as an all around system.

Here is another question for lughthound.. can I get this without the cree? how much for just the head - I cant seem to find anyone just selling it that way.



http://www.lighthound.com/Solar-Force-Masterpiece-Pro-1-Cre-XR-E-Head-for-L2-Host_p_3475.html

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The Answers are inside of your quotes in bold blue.

maxsutter said:

I am a newbie to this but the DRIVER?(whjat part of the flashlight is regulating that voltage? The driver is the electronic circuit on the back of the LED module that regulates power to the LED itself. Most store bought LED modules such as a drop in "p60" replacement module has a driver circuit that runs the LED and regulates power to it so it will not fry. You cannot just add batteries and voltage and get more power or run time to an LED module. Some will regulate and run much longer with more voltage from more batteries in series but others will toast and die. You have to look at the specs of the module you are buying. Do not buy a direct drive (no regulator at all) module and think you can run 2 or 3 lithium ion batteries in series to give it more power and run time. You will make lots of smoke and fire and no light.

I can see that the voltage output is determined by how many and what type of batteries you are running. The run time of the light is determined by the size and number of batteries not the output voltage. The battery voltage is the "input" voltage to the LED driver circuit. Some LED drivers run from 4 to 9V. Some run 5 to 12V, some run 5 to 15V or 18V. But some only run 3 to 5V. You have to know what it is you are buying and then build the host and battery pack around it. The Malkoff MC-E module you saw me run in the video took 5 to 9V for the driver running it and so I used to 18650 batteries in series for a maximum of 8.4V.

It appears I can have 3 18650 with this L2 setup - Not sure what voltage that is but the idea was to get a masterpiece turbo head and be able to switch between the 2. so Do not get the Masterpiece turbo head. You cannot replace the LED module in that with other P60 modules, it is a dedicated head. You can simply buy other P60 type replacement LED modules to drop into the head you get with the original Solarforce light and you don't want to use the screw on lantern head, or buy additional L2 flashlight empty hosts for less money that the turbo head.

Click to expand...

The Uniq Continuously Variable tailcap also only works with modules that use constant current type driver circuits, not direct drive lights that draw high current and low voltage and not with pulse width modulated type driver circuits (PWM). Most of the Solarforce drop in modules are PWM regulated and don't actually work with the CVTC. I used Malkoff's because they are the best, most reliable constant current type drive circuits and have had great success with them. Also the CVTC cannot handle really high currrent and a wide voltage spread at the same time. It will blow. So if you buy the SST-50 (again can't use the direct drive version) that has a regulator circuit that runs 5 to 9V it may draw too much current and blow the CVTC. If you get something that has a 5 to 12V driver range and also high current at full power you may blow the CVTC. The Malkoff M60 MC-E unit that I had worked in the 5 to 9V range with the CVTC. Made a great lantern type light and didn't ever fail. That would mean 1 extension on top of the regular flashlight for a total of 2 18650 batteries max. Also I used 2 inch S caribiners, since you asked.

Do more research on LED modules, what their input voltage and drive current levels are and don't just assume you can drop anything into this host, run it with any battery configuration you want and the CVTC and it will all work, it will not. Again, I would go with a well regulated MC-E over a SST-50. Don't think that just because it would only be on high for a minute that it will work and not damage the CVTC, doesn't work that way. You can blow the tail cap at turn on instant if its a high current draw unit beyond what the tail cap can take.

G.

as a newbie I knew I was going to screw this up -

where do you recommend I pick up the mce - I am guessing you as I wanted to push the light output and picked the most powerful components. May I bother you as to where you picked up the all of the components - so the malkoff MCE is the MAXIMUM light we can go with...

now is there anywhere we can push the envelope to make this better?

expanding upon your inspiration.


I did ask Lighthound to test the nailbender sst-90 dropin.. he thought it may work -- your thoughts?
http://www.malkoffdevices.com/compare-flashlights.php

As I am looking at this chart the lumens output look rather low and I do not see a specification for MCE


I do not see the MCE on this list..

the nail bender SST-50 sold on Lighthound is a direct drive unit, it says so right in their ad. It allegedly runs from 3.7 to 6V. Basically it runs off of one 4.2V Lithium ion battery and whatever current that gives. It will blow the CVTC if it even turns on at that low voltage to start with. If you run 2XCR123 primaries, it sags that voltage down a lot, won't be any brighter, run time is very short, and the CVTC still won't work. It is the wrong module to use period, not up for debate.

My MC-E module is the older M60 MC-E by Gene Malkoff. He doesn't make them any more. It is a constant current drive which is why it works so well with the CVTC. I don't know what other brands of MC-E, P7, or XP-G modules will work other than the Malkoffs, because I don't test them all and keep track of what is constant current versus pulse width modulated. There is another sticky thread on this forum of P60 drop in modules, lots of reading but it probably could be found in there. I would say get the newest Malkoff M61 drop in module that will work and run off of 2 X18650's in either the lantern head or straight up as a regular flashlight. Otherwise you simply have to ask around. Many of the multimode LED modules out there are PWM, can't use the CVTC. If you simply buy a 5 mode module, then you don't need to use the CVTC, but you get strobe and SOS mode as well and can't go to a moonlight mode, but you do have a high medium and low. That you can get directly from lighthound.

I have the BOB XL bag. It's amazing!

Do you want me to take some measurements for you? Which ones do you need?

I'm tempted to get the small BOB bag, but CountyComm doesn't ship to Canada

The lumens ratings in the new M61 appear to be LOWER then the MCE that the M60 would have contained.

To simplify this I need a direct drive unit that has a higher outpot voltage to work properly with the cctv
http://www.lighthound.com/Nailbende...refire-and-compatible-flashlights_p_3486.html
there is a sst-90 over there at lighthound


Custom drop-in for Surefire and compatible lights using super-bright Luminus SST-90 drop-in. Over 800 lumens max output.
Luminus SST-90 - W65S-GN100-WN-G4
3.6-6 volts
3 level direct drive
High -100% / Med - 45% / Low - 10%
All modules are pre-focused DO NOT USE 2xRCR123
I asked lighthound to test it

Will the thrunite 1.5 amp single mode R5 work with the Uniq tailcap?

maxsutter said:

The lumens ratings in the new M61 appear to be LOWER then the MCE that the M60 would have contained.

To simplify this I need a direct drive unit that has a higher outpot voltage to work properly with the cctv
http://www.lighthound.com/Nailbende...refire-and-compatible-flashlights_p_3486.html
there is a sst-90 over there at lighthound


Custom drop-in for Surefire and compatible lights using super-bright Luminus SST-90 drop-in. Over 800 lumens max output.
Luminus SST-90 - W65S-GN100-WN-G4
3.6-6 volts
3 level direct drive
High -100% / Med - 45% / Low - 10%
All modules are pre-focused DO NOT USE 2xRCR123
I asked lighthound to test it

Click to expand...

this is a direct drive (no regulator) high current draw LED. You cannot use this with the CVTC either. You will destroy the tail cap, if it even turns on.


recDNA, I think I have a Thrunight module, I will see if I can dig it up and test it. Not a big fan of them, was not nearly as bright as it was advertised to be.

I tested my 3 unmarked modules. One is a Thrunite but the tag peeled off quite a while ago. Two of the 3 modules worked normally, one comes on low and cannot be turned off but otherwise ramps up and down. I believe the thrunite worked normal but cannot say for sure.

The Other way to go is to simply buy one of the new XP-G 5 modes from Solarforce through Lighthound or to simply get a high power XP-G 3 mode LED module from Dereelight and not need the tailcap at all. But any single mode LED you get from LightHound if you are going to get the CVTC you should have them check. I already know that any of the direct drive units, even if they say 3.6 to 6V will not work with the CVTC, it will blow the pulse width modulation drive circuitry of that tail cap if it even turns on at all. They really only take one type of battery to work right and that is a 4.2V IMR rechargeable and that voltage is typically too low for the CVTC to cycle properly even with a lower current light.

MrGman said:

this is a direct drive (no regulator) high current draw LED. You cannot use this with the CVTC either. You will destroy the tail cap, if it even turns on.


recDNA, I think I have a Thrunight module, I will see if I can dig it up and test it. Not a big fan of them, was not nearly as bright as it was advertised to be.

Click to expand...

BigC measured the lumens of the Thrunite 1.5 amp single mode and it was good. The 3 mode not so much.

I just thought since the op mentioned using the Uniq that the single mode 1.5 amp R5 from Thrunite might be good.

I agree that the numbers Thrunite claims are silly but which R5 P60 do you believe to be significantly brighter than the Thrunite 1.5 amp R5?

Has anyone tried the Solarforce lantern with the colored Solarforce filters with a drop-in with a strobe mode? How does it compare to a Glo-Toob?
(my wife is a volunteer firefighter and does night time traffic-control).

Tonix
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/293733

can you post the dimmenions of the water bottle holders - I am thinking http://www.kleankanteen.com/products/wide/klean-kanteen-wide.html - the stainless steel bottles so if Need be I can Boil water in them.

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basically - I wanted to build a super bright lantern - I am using 18650 batteries and it appears to make it work I would need to use a lower power emitter and these cr123 batteries.

if I dont I will blow out this tailcap - so the question now gman is -

which multimode emitter for the lantern with 3 18650's?

I see a lot of single modes available... Your thoughts?

maxsutter, I have edited your posts to remove the hotlinked images from other websites.
To post pictures, they need to be hosted at a photohosting site.

Also, is this thread primarily about the SolarForce Lantern (which should belong in the /Lanterns/ subforum, or is it about LED dropins?
This thread can be moved to /Lanterns/ if you like, otherwise the thread title should be changed to better reflect the topic.

this post is centered around the lantern made by solarforce

the dropin is part of the lantern but not the focus - it is what dropin ultimately works in the lantern

so that seems more appropriate.

the BOB is where the lantern goes and the UNIQ variable tailcap are part of the discussion
photohosting - roger
thanks