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Thread: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

  1. #61
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    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    Hi,

    Quote Originally Posted by beekeeper5 View Post
    ...I'm going to give George's TaskLED hallsw a try. I'm hoping to get it by next week if everything goes well.
    I've been eyeing thos HallSW/HallTG's as well, and I'm interested in hearing about practical applications. Did they work out for you? What kind of magnet and field strength/distances is needed?

    I'm thinking to try with a rotary magnetic switch (from alunatec - http://goo.gl/XiBiH) through a delrin canister. Any thoughts on that?

    Thanks,
    Anders

  2. #62
    Flashaholic* 350xfire's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    Quote Originally Posted by bystrup View Post
    Hi,



    I've been eyeing thos HallSW/HallTG's as well, and I'm interested in hearing about practical applications. Did they work out for you? What kind of magnet and field strength/distances is needed?

    I'm thinking to try with a rotary magnetic switch (from alunatec - http://goo.gl/XiBiH) through a delrin canister. Any thoughts on that?

    Thanks,
    Anders
    Anders:
    The hall effect and hall toggle work very well. They do not require a super strong magnet to operate. I have used some of those very small rare earth magnets to work them through the thickness of a Maglite. They are much more responsive than the reed switches.
    http://tlslights.com/ your source for quality affordable dive lights, Mag-lite conversions and weapon lights. Now a Federal Firearms Dealer.

  3. #63

    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    Ok, back to working on my 1200 maglite. I'm not having any good luck with the Hallswitch so I bought a small toggle switch instead. So, I wired everything up and it works -- sorta. When I put the tailcap halfway in, everything works. However, when I fully insert the tailcap, it stops working. I have a feeling that the spring isn't making good contact with the tailcap. I grinded off all the anodized in the tail cap. Any ideas what could be the problem?

  4. #64
    Flashaholic* 350xfire's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    Quote Originally Posted by beekeeper5 View Post
    Ok, back to working on my 1200 maglite. I'm not having any good luck with the Hallswitch so I bought a small toggle switch instead. So, I wired everything up and it works -- sorta. When I put the tailcap halfway in, everything works. However, when I fully insert the tailcap, it stops working. I have a feeling that the spring isn't making good contact with the tailcap. I grinded off all the anodized in the tail cap. Any ideas what could be the problem?
    Post pics... Did you bend the spring in to make sure it contacts the battery? Could the spring be losing contact as the pressure increases when you thread the tail cap in? No luck with magnetic switch, how so?
    Last edited by 350xfire; 08-09-2011 at 06:32 PM.
    http://tlslights.com/ your source for quality affordable dive lights, Mag-lite conversions and weapon lights. Now a Federal Firearms Dealer.

  5. #65

    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    Quote Originally Posted by 350xfire View Post
    Post pics... Did you bend the spring in to make sure it contacts the battery? Could the spring be losing contact as the pressure increases when you thread the tail cap in? No luck with magnetic switch, how so?
    You know how much I like to take pics. See below. I sent the Hallswitch back to George. It doesn't seem to work properly so he wants to take a closer look at it.

    Yes, the spring contacts the battery. I was not entirely correct in my last post. It appears now that as I screw the tailcap, the light would randomly turn on and off. And if I jiggle the tail cap as I'm screwing, it would randomly turn on and off. I grabbed my voltage meter and it appears that certain part of the barrel thread seems to work and not work. Maybe it's dirty or maybe it's the type of springs I'm using. I can't seem to cut the original maglite spring. It's too tough!





    Last edited by beekeeper5; 08-09-2011 at 08:45 PM.

  6. #66
    Flashaholic* Klem's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    Clamp the spring in a vise and use a pair of bolt cutters.

    Perhaps the cap is not making proper electrical contact with the body. Due to anodising acting as an insulator the true electrical path is not the threads, but the mating surface of the cap and body. Note the bare 'teeth' on the cap surface. If the mating surfaces have red anodising on them then this will interfere with the electrical path.

  7. #67
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    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    Quote Originally Posted by beekeeper5 View Post
    I can't seem to cut the original maglite spring. It's too tough!
    I use a dremel with thin abrasive cutoff wheel to cut spring wire.

  8. #68
    Flashaholic* Klem's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    Quote Originally Posted by DIWdiver View Post
    I use a dremel with thin abrasive cutoff wheel to cut spring wire.
    That is probably the smarter move as whenever I've used bolt cutters it takes an effort to get the big jaws between the coils.

  9. #69

    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    Quote Originally Posted by Klem View Post
    Perhaps the cap is not making proper electrical contact with the body. Due to anodising acting as an insulator the true electrical path is not the threads, but the mating surface of the cap and body. Note the bare 'teeth' on the cap surface. If the mating surfaces have red anodising on them then this will interfere with the electrical path.
    I'll have a look tonight and try to clean it up. I thought the threads themselves provide the electrical path not the "teeth" on the tailcap.

    On a side note there is a small gap of about 0.25 or 0.5 mm between the barrel and the "teeth" on the tailcap. Any ideas what other options I have to ensure that I have good electric path?

  10. #70
    Flashaholic* Klem's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    The barrel and cap must close completely for the electrical path to work.

    It may be that the spring is not compressing into itself.

    If you have a multimeter you can also use the probes to check for electrical path/resistance between the spring and any other point...the threads, the teeth. I would also check the end of the barrel through to the driver.

  11. #71
    Flashaholic* 350xfire's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    Based on your pictures I would say the spring is compressing to the point where the outside is touching the plastic cover on the battery which brings the area that contacts the proper side of the battery up. So it loses contact as tension is increased. You also need to bend the spring in some to make sure it falls into the metal contact part of the battery.
    http://tlslights.com/ your source for quality affordable dive lights, Mag-lite conversions and weapon lights. Now a Federal Firearms Dealer.

  12. #72

    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    I think I figured it out. The 32650 batteries are too wide in diameter and hitting the bevel in the tailcap to properly close the tailcap to the barrel so they touch.

    I have a couple options (I think):

    1. Grind down the bevel in the tailcap so the 32650 batteries and go deeper in the tailcap
    2. Grind the top of the maglite switch (the black thing) and hope the -ve where you use an allen key still works.

    Anything else?

  13. #73
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    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    I'll cut down plastic on bottom of bateries , mod spring with fine copper braid arround spring to provide better current connection.

  14. #74
    Flashaholic* Klem's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    D Cell Li-ion's are designated 32600, i.e. 32mm diameter and 60mm length. But they are actually 62mm long. Can you measure the length to make sure you've got 62mm batteries.

    When you hold the Maglite upright and load 2 D Cells into the barrel, letting gravity pull them against the inside stop I measure 16mm of clearance from the second D cell to the end of the barrel.


    Is it a genuine Maglite and not a clone or similar?

  15. #75

    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    I took apart the maglite switch, removed the +ve spring and grinded it down the plastic a few mm so the batteries can go deeper in the barrel. Then I found another small spring for the +ve and after a number of trial and errors, it's working!! The tail cap can now close properly. I forgot to take a picture but I'm hoping it'll work after putting the JB Weld around the switch to make it waterproof and waiting for it to dry. Tomorrow, I'll put some marine silicone around the head and the barrel neck then off to do a leak test later this week.

  16. #76

    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    Hi all,

    Apologies if this sounds like a total and complete noob statement, but I've been looking at JayRob's 1000Lumen XM-L Mag mod, and this thread seems to give the same capacity/capability for a lot less cash. Correct me if I'm wrong, but this LED emitter: dx link removed looks like a complete drop in without any mods except to the tailspring and you get close to 1000 Lumens with a pretty decent runtime on high-capacity 32000's.

    I'm looking for a decently waterproof mod to my Maglite, it's a 4-D cell model with the Maglite LED in it, but not really bright enough. The Cree above is $30 and I'll probably get 4 32000's or 32650's for a long runtime...but what else am I lacking/missing?

    Regards,

    W.
    Last edited by Unforgiven; 10-12-2011 at 01:17 PM.

  17. #77
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    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    A few things...

    Firstly, this drop-in won't fit into a Maglite without machining. You need to remove the threads and machine a section out of the inside of the head. You will need access to a lathe.

    Secondly, the four Lithium batteries will be in series in your 4D Maglite. 4 Li-ions are 16.5Volts when fully charged. Note the max voltage on the Mod is 8.2V meaning you will damage the driver. This drop-in is designed for a 2-cell Li-ion.

    Thirdly you will need to consider a replacement waterproof switch as the existing clicky will not work underwater. It will flood and won't work under pressure anyway.

    Some other considerations are listed in this thread.

  18. #78

    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    While I don't disagree that using a lathe is ideal, it can be done with a dremel. It was my first time machining a head with a dremel, and it took me about 6 hours in total to get everything to fit perfectly... don't try it unless you're willing to fail, but if you're careful you should be okay

    I know others have more experience comparing this head to the XM-L, but I understand the XM-L package from DX is a little easier to fit into a Mag head. When I compared the beams of the two, the stock 5*Cree is tighter and a bit brighter (and a bit cooler in colour). I have modded the board in the 5*Cree to output approx 20watts, and it makes a considerable difference. I haven't taken a look at the XM-L board yet, but it may be fair to assume you can get more out of it too.

    The board used in the 5*Cree has undergone at least three modifications since it first came out, and the trend is to reduce its forward current. The first documented version had an ouput of roughly 700ma (as opposed to the advertised 800ma), a later version provided 650ma, and the version I just received in the mail yesterday is close to 600ma. I assume this has been done to reduce failures - perhaps in implementation where there is poor heat transfer and dissipation.

    Based on some tests I read of the R2, my best estimate is the 5*cree outputs somewhere between 900 and 1000 lumen (depending on the board you have).

  19. #79
    Flashaholic* Klem's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    I have had a look at the 3*XML drop-in and I find it woefully underpowered.


    Three settings; High, Low, and Strobe.
    High, 7.8 Watts
    Low, 0.7 Watts
    Strobe 3 Watts.

    Compared against the 5*XR-E drop-in the 5*XRE wins hands down. Not only is it brighter, but more focussed. The 5*XR-E draws between 12-15Watts by comparison. I agree with 'Laut', the XRE factory driver is only delivering about 0.7A which means the claim to 1200 lumens is exaggerated. However compared to the 3*XML; each one capable of running at 3A delivering 1,000lumens... it's like driving a Ferrari in second gear.

    To be fair to the manufacturer the 30Watt maximum potential of the 3*XM-L drop-in can never be achieved without the risk of overheating in a standard above-water torch. The volume of metal for heat dissipation and tenuous thermal path inthose 'W' series torches is simply asking for a flood or warranty claims and returns.

    Not to say the $33 3*XML drop-in is a complete write-off, but you would need to replace the driver and add heat sink to the base. Then house it in a Maglite designed for diving with plenty of thermal path to the outside...then you can put your foot on the accelerator!
    Last edited by Klem; 10-12-2011 at 05:18 PM.

  20. #80
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    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    Quote Originally Posted by Klem View Post
    I have had a look at the 3*XML drop-in and I find it woefully underpowered.


    it's like driving a Ferrari in second gear.
    In a lot of places you can get arrested for speeding while driving a Ferrari in second gear...

    Are those XM-L's on fiberglass boards? Or is it just the thin laminate layer on top of the aluminum substrate that gives it that 'woven' look? If the boards are fully fiberglass, you wouldn't want to drive them any harder.

    Oh, and that would be like putting bicycle tires on a Ferrari.

  21. #81
    Flashaholic* Klem's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    Looks like metal bases with black material on top. Looking even more closely I can see a tiny gap between one of the XML's and the metal base. That white epoxy is on one side of the XML only. Must have been 'beer-O-Clock' in the factory when this one was put together.

    I couldn't prise out the driver so it got the hacksaw treatment. Does anyone recognise it?

  22. #82

    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    Quote Originally Posted by Klem View Post
    I have had a look at the 3*XML drop-in and I find it woefully underpowered.
    Three settings; High, Low, and Strobe.
    High, 7.8 Watts
    Low, 0.7 Watts
    Strobe 3 Watts.

    Compared against the 5*XR-E drop-in the 5*XRE wins hands down. Not only is it brighter, but more focussed. The 5*XR-E draws between 12-15Watts by comparison. I agree with 'Laut', the XRE factory driver is only delivering about 0.7A which means the claim to 1200 lumens is exaggerated. However compared to the 3*XML; each one capable of running at 3A delivering 1,000lumens... it's like driving a Ferrari in second gear.

    To be fair to the manufacturer the 30Watt maximum potential of the 3*XM-L drop-in can never be achieved without the risk of overheating in a standard above-water torch. The volume of metal for heat dissipation and tenuous thermal path inthose 'W' series torches is simply asking for a flood or warranty claims and returns.

    Not to say the $33 3*XML drop-in is a complete write-off, but you would need to replace the driver and add heat sink to the base. Then house it in a Maglite designed for diving with plenty of thermal path to the outside...then you can put your foot on the accelerator!
    I don't recognize the driver from your picture, but the interesting part would likely be the part I can't see. There's probably a sense resistor, perhaps near the ground wire that will determine your forward current. If you were able to find the resistor (it would also likely be larger than most of the other resistors), measure it and post your forward voltage, you could do some experiment increasing the current. It's a bit of a shot in the dark without having a schematic and knowing the specs on the components (so yes you could blow your board.)

  23. #83
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    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    Quote Originally Posted by Klem View Post
    Looks like metal bases with black material on top.
    Well that's good at least.

    Quote Originally Posted by Klem View Post
    Must have been 'beer-O-Clock' in the factory when this one was put together.
    That's why the production floor at my company shuts down at quarter-to-beer. That way we only get mistakes made by those thinking about getting wasted. Some of the office staff (including me) has been known to stay until Mike's-Hard-Lemonade-thirty, but we never do anything important after beer-O-clock.

    Seriously though, at 2.6 watts each, the LEDs don't need really careful heatsinking, and if you don't 'enhance' your drop-in, it will probably last a while. The words 'probably' and 'a while' may not satisfy those with more discriminating taste, but what are you going to do, buy a Shurefire, or a Malkoff? They chose to save a cent or two on thermal (?) epoxy, by trading off some trivial things like lifetime and reliability. It would be nice if they would put that in the sales literature, but that's written by the office staff after production shuts down, and obviously isn't considered important.

    Thanks, Klem, for showing us exactly what is inside these things.

  24. #84
    Flashaholic* 350xfire's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    That sucks... Guess I'll have to install a Taskled on it
    http://tlslights.com/ your source for quality affordable dive lights, Mag-lite conversions and weapon lights. Now a Federal Firearms Dealer.

  25. #85
    Flashaholic* Klem's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    Yes, my thoughts exactly...which is why I've hacksawed the thing off in disgust.

  26. #86

    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    how did you remove the reflector? I looks like you just need to pry, but I don't want to break it.

  27. #87
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    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    Quote Originally Posted by Racket View Post
    how did you remove the reflector? I looks like you just need to pry, but I don't want to break it.
    On the 3*XM-L there is a single screw in the centre.
    One the 5*XR-E there are two screws either side of centre.

    You need to remove the driver to access the screws.

    Once unscrewed the reflector and base comes apart, no glue.

  28. #88

    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    Hello. I finally had time to work on this after several months of waiting for the driver replacement and finding time to work on this. Everything tested ok and it was nice and bright. However, as soon as I soldered the driver wires to the 5*XR-E dropin wires together, it lit up for a second then after that, it won't light up again. I measured the driver wires going to the 5*XR-E dropin and they're at 17V which is ok. I'm using two 32650 batteries. If I switch the mode, it went down to 9V and variable voltage reading depending if it is on strobe or SOS mode. However, the dropin still won't light up for some reason. Any ideas?

  29. #89

    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    I'd suggest you check each LED seperately with a direct drive from a single cell.

  30. #90

    Default Re: 1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

    I replaced the driver and that was the cultprit. No idea why but I think it's ok now. I've just JB weld the barrel to the head so we'll see if the leak test works.

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