1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

Klem

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Now it's finally finished I thought I'd combine the photos and ideas from a few previously threads into a single 'How to'.



Thanks everyone for your ideas in this.



It's a solid compact torch, more powerful than the 'Ugly Torch' but still fits in a BC pocket.



1200MagliteMod.jpg


It's a 2D Maglite with a DX 1200 lumen 'drop-in'...Using 5*Cree XR-E run at about 16watts. Batteries are 2* D Cell Li-ion (7.2V 5Ah gives 2+hrs run time). Switch is a piezo connected to a toggle circuit.



The drop-in is this one found here, http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.35241

dxshot5cree.jpg






The Body

Take a 2D Maglite and remove the switch barrel. Remove the rubber switch cover and use a 2mm Allen key to release the barrel. This is the only way so don't try coming in from the front on that circlip, you'll never get it out. Slide the barrel out the back. Cut off the narrow tube section of the barrel and discard. Push out the blue plastic insert and discard the switch mechanism. Hacksaw the blue insert in half, to free up space for the piezo. Cut short the long silver flat lead and solder a cable to what's left of it. This will be your negative take-off forward of the batteries. Solder a positive lead to the metal positive contact inside the barrel. Return the blue section to the barrel and permanently glue with epoxy.

th_allenkey.jpg
th_barrelcomplete.jpg
th_pieces.jpg




Reinsert the modified barrel back into the Maglite tighten in place with the allen key. Glue a 16mm piezo switch into the space left. Before you glue shorten the legs and solder two leads to the legs. I used 2-part metal epoxy to glue the piezo into the Maglite (Devcon). Run all four leads forward through the convenient hole in the barrel.

th_internals.jpg


So, you now have 2 leads from the switch and the positive and negative leads from the battery.





The Switch Circuit

The toggle circuit for the switch is made from a few parts; including a 556 timer chip and a logic FET. I used the following circuit.



Toggle-circuit-RevisedLED.jpg




ToggleCircuitPhotoA.jpg




Make the board fairly compact as this needs to slide into the space between the piezo barrel and the head.



In the photo above the FET is the IRLZ34N, which is a TO-220 size part. You can use smaller FETs and make the board more compact. For example, in the photo below it is a IRF3707 in a smaller I-Pak size.

togglecircuitcmosexplained.jpg




The Head

The drop-in and the Maglite head need to be machined so they fit. No way round this I'm afraid and so you'll need access to a lathe.



Start by shaving the threads off the drop-in to the same ID as the Maglite

dorp-in.jpg




Shave the inside of the head as in the photo below. Shave shorter the Maglite bezel thread...This will make the drop-in seat proud to the front, and so when you screw the bezel on it pushes the drop-in back hard against the Maglite, which helps with heat transfer, adds internal support to the lens (to resist water pressure), and keeps it from rattling around inside.



magliteshavedhead.jpg




In this photo you can see by shaving the thread the drop-in sits 1mm proud.

proudhead.jpg








The Maglite head is now semi-permanently glued to the body by polyeurathane sealant (Sikaflex Marine). You will not need to open this again. Check that it all fits together before glueing.





The lens

The lens can be glass or synthetic. I've used both on Maglite heads and they both work. In this latest torch I used a 6mm piece of Perspex



The lens is actually 6mm thick, but if you carefully cut a 3mm ridge on a lathe you can sit some of this thickness out the front of the bezel, leaving a thinner amount for screwing the bezel onto the Maglite threads. I've glued both the inside and outside gaps and when it's all done you peeling off the protective brown paper.



lenses.jpg
Maglitebezeldiagramjpeg.jpg




The bezel is screwd onto the Maglite head and sealed with a bead of silicone sealant (Silastic). I discard the three factory O rings on the Maglite. I replace one at the back of the handle with a thicker one... to access the battery compartment. The other two seals may as well be semi-permanent as you probably won't need to open them again.





frontbezelandclamps.jpg




Using silicone gasket sealant for the bezel instead of a stronger glue means it can be 'cracked' open if ever you need to service the front section. I made a couple of wood clamps for this; A square of wood holed with a hole saw and cut in half. Good for an even grip in the vise and won't scratch the finish or crack the waterproof seal.





The Back End



springs.jpg




th_Transit.jpg
th_DCellLi-ion.jpg




The back end. You need to shorten the spring as in the picture. D Cell Li-ions are slightly longer than normal D Cells. The O ring needs to be upgraded to a thicker 2.5mm one. As the toggle circuit chews a few milliamps I leave the back end slightly cracked to open the circuit and save the batteries. Batteries have a charging bed with leads for both balance charging, and normal fast charging. Don't forget they are unprotected so don't mix up the polarity in or out of the torch!



On an earlier torch I fitted a built-in Li-ion protection circuit, but it seems they only work to protect from over discharge if you can connect both cells individually to the circuit. With individual D Cells stacked in the handle you can't do this so I'm just mindful of the time and don't go beyond 2 hours without re-charge.



th_torchtesting.jpg






Extras

If you like to attach your torch you can always use a hose clamp (saves drilling a hole into the torch and so minimises potential flooding).



hoseclamp1.jpg
hoseclamp2.jpg




Or you can use a hands free wrist band. 20 minutes with a hand-sticher and some old wetsuit material.

2Dmaglites.jpg








Some comparison beamshots, the drop-in is the bottom-right (I made the mistake of labelling it '5*XP-G', but it should be '5*XR-E').

35HID2.jpg
Terralux2.jpg


UglyLight2.jpg
XP-GDrop-in2.jpg




I've made a few torches in my time and this would have to be the most solid. Maglites are a perfect host for a dive torch, and great for heat sink/dissipation, and this one sits in your BC pocket.



Hope this is of some help to someone.
 

Craigit

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Hi, excellent build. Did you cut off of the springs to the drop in or just solder to them? I am planning on doing a similar build and I just got the drop in today and ran across your build.

I too have the same color host lol. I also want to toy around with what a aspheric would do with the 5 cree's. I plan on using 2X18650's. I don't think the stock switch is going to hold the amperage either, any suggestions without using a piezo? Sorry for being a noob :) just signed up today.
 

Klem

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Are you building this as a dive torch?

I ripped the springs off with a pair of pliers

An aspheric on the front of a 5-LED 'drop-in' does not work...But it looks good!

ashperic5XR-E.jpg
 

Craigit

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Hi, I just my internet back up and running again so I apologize for the delay.

Yes, I would like to get it to the point where it can be used for diving. And wow, thanks for throwing the aspheric on, that looks crazy. I hope you didn't mess too much up for doing that.

I've got it all put together now. So far the stock switch is holding but I do need to find a better solution for under water applications like your Piezo switch. I see why you used the Piezo and it looks great, but frankly the toggle circuit looks a bit scary for me to build.
 

Klem

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The stock switch will flood in 30 seconds, and if you manage to waterproof it the water pressure will push it in to make it unusable...don't use it.

If you don't want to solder up your own toggle circuit you can go magnetic. I recommend the toggle version of Taskled's Hall switches. It's reasonably priced, cheaper than a piezo, and all you need to do is solder the contact leads to it. You'll have to dive with a magnet to turn it on and off but that can be tied to the lanyard or on your wrist or BC. You'll have to waterproof the switch hole or you could cut a longer Maglite behind the hole (and then figure out how to arrest the batteries from sliding forward and make electrical contact).

George from Taskled says his toggle switch can be slaved to a piezo, however the detail of exactly how to do that is yet to be clarified for the lesser electrically-minded people like us.
 

beekeeper5

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Instead of going with a magnetic switch or a piezo, how about a plain toggle switch with a waterproof boot? I think that would be the simplest approach.
 

Klem

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Instead of going with a magnetic switch or a piezo, how about a plain toggle switch with a waterproof boot? I think that would be the simplest approach.

Yes you could, as long as you are happy with the toggle sitting out the side of an otherwise clean-sided torch. Just be prepared for it to catch on everything and anything, and if left exposed that rubber boot will eventually get torn/pierced. You could put a protective hood around it but again, it's adding bulk to an otherwise clean-lined torch.
 

beekeeper5

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Yes you could, as long as you are happy with the toggle sitting out the side of an otherwise clean-sided torch. Just be prepared for it to catch on everything and anything, and if left exposed that rubber boot will eventually get torn/pierced. You could put a protective hood around it but again, it's adding bulk to an otherwise clean-lined torch.

Good point. I was thinking about that (re: toggle sticking out and catching everything in sight). I would like a magnetic switch but I'm still waiting for parts before I can start modding my Maglite. One thing I'm thinking is how am I going to hook up the magnetic switch with the tail cap. I've read that the negative goes to the tail cap then along the Mag body to the driver or switch. But what happens if I shorten the Mag barrel by removing several inches (I have a 6D) and reconnecting it using JB Weld? Will that still work?
 

Klem

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When you cut a long Maglite you cut the torch behind the switch hole. The switch hole is where the blue plastic frame normally sits. You will then need to figure out a way of making contact with the front of the batteries and my advice is to re-affix the blue barrel at the equivalent spot in the shortened handle. I would drill a tiny hole through the side and put the smallest brass or stainless bolt you cna find through it. A dab of polyeurathane or silicone based sealant will waterproof it, and you can stretch a small length of bicycle inner-tube over the area where the bolt protrudes if you want to hide/protect it.

The negative pathway comes from the spring, via the cap, through the body and forward of the batteries the brass bolt becomes the take off. The bolt will also help hold the blue plastic frame in place so you have good contact with the batteries every time. The reason I'm suggesting drilling through the side of the handle is that it's almost impossible to solder aluminium, and so you have to have physical contact with the sides somehow.

Just be aware the head of the DX drop-in comes electrically positive. As soon as you shave any of the Maglites insides to fit the drop-in you risk making electrical contact. Negative from the tail with positive from the head is a potential short. Go underwater with a short and there's the added damage done by electroysis. Your torch will look 40 years old after one dive (like mine did!).

Just pop the driver out the back of the drop-in with a pocket knife and make sure it doesn't make electrical contact with the body.
 

beekeeper5

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Just be aware the head of the DX drop-in comes electrically positive. As soon as you shave any of the Maglites insides to fit the drop-in you risk making electrical contact. Negative from the tail with positive from the head is a potential short. Go underwater with a short and there's the added damage done by electroysis. Your torch will look 40 years old after one dive (like mine did!).

Just pop the driver out the back of the drop-in with a pocket knife and make sure it doesn't make electrical contact with the body.

Can you elaborate on popping the driver out the back of the dropin? And how would I make sure it doesn't make an electrical contact with the body?
 

Klem

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Like this...

5XR_EInternals.jpg


If you have a look at yours there will be two blobs of solder opposite each other on the edge of the driver, and that holds the driver in the reflector. Just get your soldering iron and scrape away the solder joins, then the driver can be carefully prised out with a knife.

What this does is break the electrical path with the head. Or... you could break the path by re-anodising any machining you do to the inside of the Maglite head. Up to you, but this takes two minutes and is by far the easiest way.
 
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Craigit

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Klem, you are awesome. Thank you for your help and input. I am fixing to pop the driver out, I didn't realize the potential short.
 

Klem

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Nor did I, until I went for the first dive with my brand new torch...and then realised all too late it was being eaten alive by itself!

Just had another thought...you could break the connection to the head by popping that brass ring out, leaving the driver soldered to the ring. The brass ring is not glued to the head, just press fitted.
 

beekeeper5

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Thanks Uncle Klem. You rock!

I'm contemplating if I should grind the mag head or the DX 5 Cree. I'm leaning towards grinding the DX 5 Cree as I only have one huge grinding stone for my drill. That grinding stone will be too big to fit in the mag head. Any comments or should I buy a smaller grinding stone and grind the mag head instead?

Also, I measured 1.6A from the tailcap using two 32650 protected batteries for a total of 8.4V. Is yours the same?
 

Klem

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It makes sense that coming from the outside of an object is more easy than going inside (if you don't have access to a lathe).

Don't forget you're going to have to grind the threads off that head as well, and I recommend you do that first. Check it fits in the Maglite by turning it upside down. then you can attack the ledge, or the head to get it to sit neatly.

13.4Watts sounds a bit low for the head. I think mine was 16watts. But I wouldn't worry too much. quality control on thsoe drivers will not be too flash.
 

beekeeper5

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The DX 5 Cree hotspot is brighter than my ugly light MC-E. It looks nice! Although the DX 5 Cree dropin looks a bit "worn" out outside with scratch marks and glue (flux residue?) but the reflectors inside are in good shape. I guess they forgot to polish or clean up the outside.

I'll go to Home Depot later this evening to buy a small grinding stone to grind the threads off the head.

Regarding the lens. I just bought the Borafloat 52.1mm x 2.00mm from Flashlightlens. Will that be thick enough for rec diving (no greater than 100ft)? Otherwise, I can either go with the 52.1mm x 2.85 UCL but it won't be as durable as the Borafloat. Or should I get the 350xfire's 52.5mm x 5mm?
 

Codiak

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I use UCLs

350xFires is a good option too..

my first build was with FLLs Borafloat and it still works after a few 130+ dives
 

beekeeper5

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I use UCLs

350xFires is a good option too..

my first build was with FLLs Borafloat and it still works after a few 130+ dives

How thick are your UCLs and Borafloat lens and how deep do you usually go? I would like to use the borafloat (52.1 x 2.00mm) lens since I already have them and I'm itching to get my light up and running. It took 4 weeks to get my lens from Flashlightlens -- I'm in Canada so go figure. :S
 

350xfire

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I use 5mm. 2mm seems thin. I have tested my lights to 265' without problems. I suspect for 50-100' 2mm no problem but I have never tried this. I have some 3mm that I use on my land lights.
 
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