One must remember that the Sharpmaker, by design, only creates two different bevel angles, depending on stone positioning. Not all knives fall into these angle categories. Some knives even have an asymmetrical grind that your Sharpmaker would absolutely ruin by creating a micro-bevel with a new angle that would probably dull after the first few pieces of paper you cut.
My dad always taught me: there's an easy way, and there's a right way...
I may have missed it, but I didn't see a mention of the EdgePro Apex; we've found it to be the simplest and best value in sharpeners, and I'm pretty sure we've tried them all
I don't like the fact that it's messy (water) and the stones need to be flattened periodically.
I like that the WE clamps the blade, you sharpen each side right after each stroke, it's not messy, no need to flatten the stones on occasion and it's so easy even a caveman can do it.
I've had great luck sharpening with a spyderco sharpmaker. Easy as can be. Quick to set up, and it sharpens a huge variety of things. Scissors to fishing hooks!
I sold my sharpmaker today. Hoping the Wicked Edge will help eliminate operator error on my part.
for those willing to spend allot of $, check out the edgepro sharpeners:
I received notification today that my WE sharpener will be shipping out this week.
A Sharpmaker is ideal for beginners and those with without patience.
There might be better results possible but for "quick and dirty" sharpening it´s pretty good.
If i need a renovation for one of my knives i give to my sharpenng shop of trust.
For powered home renovating/sharpening i would recommend a Scheppach Tiger series, if available.
I received my Wicked Edge sharpener yesterday and tried it out on some knives. I was able to put some hair popping mirror finish edges on some knives in no time. I have only been practicing on my cheaper ($40-$50) knives but I believe I will try it out on some of my nicer knives this weekend.
What became quite apparent quickly was that my hand sharpening on the Spyderco Sharpmaker was making some very uneven edges. All my factory edges were not the same on both sides as well.
This Sharpener is not for everyone because of the price but if you want to put some really nice edges on knives and don't feel like putting the time in to correctly learn how to hand sharpen knives, this is for you. The WE was roughly 4 times the price of my Sharpmaker (I purchased the extra super fine rods with the Sharpmaker) but I purchased a few extras with the WE (super fine stones, 5 & 3.5 micron strops and the 1 & .5 micron strops).
Last edited by Bullzeyebill; 05-18-2011 at 10:39 PM. Reason: Title spelling correction
A quick comment here from a knife maker. Regardless of the system you choose it is very important to keep your abrasive clean. Stones and ceramics load up quickly. They need regular cleaning to stay effective. I clean my stones with bathroom cleanser such as Comet and use a fingernail brush. Add a bit of water to make a paste. In just a few seconds you'll have your stones/rods cutting like new. I clean mine after every few uses.
You can't build a proper burr cutting into the stone like some may teach (IMHO). Always push away from the edge instead. Keep thinning that Burr with progressively finer grit until you finally remove the final traces of it when you strop. Use magnification to study the process as you go.
The other thing is just practice. You'll get great at it if you keep after it. Study your progress under magnification. Before long the tools won't matter much. You'll be able to put a great edge on a blade with a stone, wet/dry paper, or even a belt grinder (with appropriate grits of course). And no matter what you do, always finish with a strop, but like everything, you can over strop too. Just keep practicing. It won't take as long as you think. I used to be hopeless at it but doing the above I got pretty good in just a few months. It's no big deal any more.
Last edited by airsix; 05-19-2011 at 06:10 PM.
Edge Pro or Wicked Edge.
Even with widgets that hold a constant angle some knowledge of what is going on at the blade edge helps. I picked up this book
years ago. Read it, read it again, then really sat down and studied it. I am now able to put an edge on a knife (good steel of course) that'll pop hairs AND have a decent lifespan. I use a Lansky(sp?) el-cheapo clamp and made a few stones to my liking. I have an old Spyderco Military in CPM-440V (crucible) that is an absolute bear to sharpen, after reading the above book I was able to get an uber smooth almost mirror edge on the thing and it's a wicked hunk of steel now.
I seem to have misplaced my occipital lobe, and as such cannot search for it. Do you see my dilemma?
Is the Sharpmaker good for tougher steels (like CPM-M4 and M390)? I've read a few threads on other forums that say it's difficult to get an edge without diamond stones on those.
Well, pal, you opinion is worth about what any opinion is worth, then. Try a WE, and you will prove yourself wrong in less than 5 minutes. (yes, I do go "backwards" frequently as it lets me see what I'm doing better)Originally Posted by airsix
I can recommend the Lansky Sharpening System. It's super-easy to use, comes with a variety of honing stones, oil, clamp, rods. Not only that, it actually puts a mean edge on kitchenware, scissors, knives of all types.
Flashlight Selection Process: Pick any two, and only two of the following: Bright, Cheap, Long-Runtime.
I have a Lansky clamo on kit and a DMT clamp in kit. I would suggest the DMT if you have a knife with a harder blade. The DMT kit makes sharpening my D2 blade a breeze.
Anyone use the convex sharpening method with a leather base on wood...with sandpaper on top? A guy from BRKT has a web page with a simple tutorial. I just followed that and practiced a bit.
The magnification method of learning WORKS. I figured this out on my own out of sheer curiosity...just to see if I could see the burr.
I have had great results with this method...cheap...easy...and I get razors with little maintenance. Every user I own, including my RJ Martin is convexed and now just needs a strop as maintenance.
Stay sharp and bright for life.
Have your knife and light handy at all times.
Sent from a long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away.
When you HAVE it sharp and gain a little skill this:
will help keep it that way!
I love my Edge Pro.
Apart from using a knife sharpening stone :P
I've used this with reasonable results. "zwilling knife sharpener"
Since I posted the link to the Klein Pocket Steel I have fond some knives that only respond well to sandpaper!
I do not own a great selection of paper nor a mouse pad. I generally fold the paper to give about a 4 layer cushion.
I have not gotten really good at it, but have gotten some formerly not quite as sharp as I like knives to be THAT sharp!
Heres a pic of the worksharp mini belt grinder, great little unit IO
Here's the YouTube of that WSKTS:
the setup i use is pretty simple lansky diamond hone clamping kit and a leather strop. gets my knives sharp enough to shave with and the edge looks like a katana sword
I've made more knives dull trying to sharpen them...finally found the Lansky sharpening system for around $30. Pretty much idiot-proof so clowns like me can even make a dull blade sharp. But the most important, and often overlooked step, is finishing the blade off with a leather strop. Stropping my knives after sharpening on the Lansky has made them razor sharp...which I never thought I could accomplish on my own.
My dog ate my flashlight...
I have waterstones, sandpaper and mousepads, and charged and plain strops. I can get my Leek shaving-sharp with any of them.
The ONLY method I've successfully used to put a hair-popping edge on my S30V BM940 is the WSKTS.
I also re-profiled and sharpened my in-laws' entire kitchen knife set (mostly Henckels and Wustoff, which they would run through the Dishwasher!) - from dull, chipped and near useless, to "holy cow, I can't believe I can slice tomatoes with this" in about 3 hours.
I heartily recommend learning to use stones, sandpaper, and whatever is available (coffee mug...) - and doing so will aid your technique when using mechanized methods. But for reprofiling, restoring really messed up edges, and taking care of business without spending all night on it, I can't recommend the WSKTS highly enough.
I have the Lansky as well as all the other stuff, all of it works fine and important to understand how it all works. The Worksharp saves a ton of time, just did all my parents kitchen knives, wouldn't have even attempted it with the other methods.