90 CRI XP-G Emitter Swaps

Hey all,

I've got a Ti Quark lying around that doesn't get much use due to the icky cool white tint, I'm considering swapping in one of the 90CRI XP-Gs cutter has for sale.



I'm wondering, have any of you more experienced modders done anything cool with the 90 CRI XPG's? There was a big fuss before they came out, but I haven't heard much since...



I'll post pics and beamshots once I get around to doing the emitter swap!



Cheers,

Alex

Just bumping this thread to see if you ever got to doing the mod. My quark is still dreadfully blue!

Hey mvyrmnd, the 90 CRI mod is still in the pipeline, but between Uni and a new job, it's taken a back seat. I should get around to it fairly soon, when I do I'll post results and beamshots.

Cheers,
Alex

I've been thinking about putting a high-cri xp-g in my armytek predator. I just have to figure out how I'm going to do it exactly since the predator insn't the easiest light to mod. It would be perfect for those times when my high-cri hds clicky doesn't throw far enough or just isn't bright enough.

Okay guys an update here, I finally ordered the 90 CRI XP-Gs from cutter, Q2 bin.
My angry blue Ti Quark is on the operating table ready to have its guts spilled!
I should have beamshots and some other pics by next weekend!
This has been a long time coming, but between uni, work and some other projects (and new lights) it kept getting bumped back.

Don't suppose we can get before and after beam shots, and maybe even one from an xml as a comparison? I'm considering a high CRI but it would be nice to see what sort of a difference it will make.

This might give you a good idea of what to expect:

7 Light CCT/CRI Comparison

yazovyet said:

Don't suppose we can get before and after beam shots, and maybe even one from an xml as a comparison? I'm considering a high CRI but it would be nice to see what sort of a difference it will make.

Click to expand...

I can give it a shot, My camera isn't great, but it can lock the white balance, so I'll see how that goes.
I don't have any XM-L lights, but I can do a comparo against a HDS Hi CRI clicky, Neutral XP-G Quark, warm XP-G Preon, a cool white SST-50 and maybe a Surefire incan.
I'll try and do indoor and outdoor shots, because outdoors is where you REALLY notice the CRI of your lights.

If the mod works out, I'll probably do the same thing to my SR3, which doesn't get used much due to its ICY cold white tint. I know an XP-G will eat up its throw, but I have an M6 and a D-Mini VX Ultra as throwers, so I'd rather make the SR3 functional again.

Cheers,
Alex

Im contemplating doing this to my mini123 but it seems like
such a hassle to take it apart... and my soldering skills are
pretty weak. Im ok @ point to point stuff in old guitar amps
etc. but not good with the smaller hi tech stuff..

Check out my liteflux mod. But I used a high CRI XP-E P4 http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-mod-but-a-fine-one.-(LF3XT-XP-E-P4-high-CRI)

I finally got around to doing the mod! This has gone from being one of my least used lights, to an EDC!

I took some pics with my point and shoot camera, need to borrow my mate's SLR to do proper pics of it. White balance was set to "daylight". The Hi CRIs and incans look a little redder, and the NW XP-G Quark looks a little greener than in real life.

First up we have a NW Quark (camera makes it greener than my eye sees) on left, yucky cool white Quark on right:


Second, Neutral White XP-G Quark on left, 90 CRI XP-G centre, Surefire A2 aviator right:


Thirdly, Ra Clicky Hi CRI left, 90 CRI XP-G centre, Ra Twisty 85Tr cool osram right:


To my eye the clicky has a more pure white hotspot, with a red corona, and is overall a higher CCT. The XP-G 90 CRI is a creamy rose tint, but overall very similar to an unregulated incan beam, with half dead cells.

In all beamshots the lights were set to 80 lumens, or as close as possible. (EDIT: except the clicky, which I accidentally left on ~60 lumens.) All lights were approx 2ft from the white wall.

I'll post some outdoor pics once I can get my hands on a real camera...

Basically I now have this light permanently in my pocket, with a Ti AA body. It is programmed to Moon and High, I may change that to Low and High soon, as I use my 85Tr as my dedicated "low light". I'm far more willing to beat this light around than my clicky, as i've sanded the Ti finish to avoid scratches. (The clicky is cerakote orange)

Cheers,
Alex

SOLD!

How much to do mine?

Well I have been doing some heat testing, and it seems the titanium head is heating up faster now than before the mod. It heats up almost as fast as my aluminium quark now, when tailstanding on max. Before the mod the Ti head took far longer to get hot to touch.

The one problem I've found with it, is that between my High CRI clicky and this High CRI Quark, all my other LEDs look terrible! My Neutral White Quark, which I once considered to be a great tinted LED, now looks green and lifeless! I think a few more of these High CRI XP-G's will find homes in my lights, and possibly some High CRI XP-Es too for the throwier lights!

Cheers,
Alex

Well I have been doing some heat testing, and it seems the titanium head is heating up faster now than before the mod. It heats up almost as fast as my aluminium quark now, when tailstanding on max. Before the mod the Ti head took far longer to get hot to touch.

The one problem I've found with it, is that between my High CRI clicky and this High CRI Quark, all my other LEDs look terrible! My Neutral White Quark, which I once considered to be a great tinted LED, now looks green and lifeless! I think a few more of these High CRI XP-G's will find homes in my lights, and possibly some High CRI XP-Es too for the throwier lights!

Cheers,
Alex

A good friend upgraded an LF2XT with a high CRI XP-G. It's a fantastic combination and the tint is great outdoors at night in a very compact light. :thumbsup:

lovecpf