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12V Low voltage home lighting system.

dat2zip

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Some of you may be wondering why your orders are are not being processed.

I have been working on my 12VDC low voltage home lighting system.

The key components are:

12VDC AC/DC brlck power supply.

Relay control box. Everything goes through this box. Power in, sunrise/sunset sensor, motion sensor and output distribution cables.

Sunrise/Sunset sensor. This gives me a closed contact when it gets dark. The closed contact is used to drive the relays to switch power to the output distribution lines. One line goes to power the front porch lights and the other main cable will feed the rest of the house of LED based lights.

CAT5 cable. This twisted pair cable cost less than 2 or 4 wire sheath wiring and as such I bought a box of 1000 feet of it at Fry's.

Purpose: Install moonlight level lighting in key dark spots of the house using tri-cluster'd 3mm and 1W Luxeon McCans where more light is needed.

While I have many LED night lights in key areas it is still too dark to walk from room to room without having to turn on the lights just to get to the next room. The kitchen is a good example. Just to pass through the kitchen to get to the family room and from there is door to the garage I have to turn on the kitchen light. Of course when I get to the other side I don't have another switch to turn it off. To be totally power miser I suppose I could then turn on the family room light, back track and turn off the kitchen light and then proceed to the garage and then backtrack to turn off the family room.

That's just too unrealistic and I just leave the lights on since backtracking would be a total waste of time.

I checked and found with one Arc AAA pointed up to the ceiling 12" down from almost any wall would provide a dim but navigatable flood similar as if there was a full moon. Since a large area is lit and not just a spot here and there it is quite easy to see and navigate. I tried the Arc AAA in various rooms and was quite surprised how well this worked in the hallway, kitchen and bathrooms. I think I'll even put one of these in each of my closets too.

Since the Arc AA is a single 5mm slightly overdriven LED I figure three 3mms should do as well if not better in these key situations.

I found one 1W on the porch pointing upward provided enough lighting to light up the key hole. Currently only the streelight across the street provides little if any when your body is standing between the keyhole and the light. It's impossible to see the keyhole currently.

Here some of the components I bought and will be installing.

e640_12vhomelighting01.jpg


Far left are the brass balls that take the rubber tri-cluster disk and three 3mm LEDs. Next to them are the 9 star housings. The rubber disk that goes in these accepts 9 3mm LEDs. Down the middle are the threaded tubes that screw into the brass balls giving them a threaded stalk to screw into the brass wall plates.

Center tray is all brass balls and the relay control box I made last week.

Upper right tray. The black box is the sunrise/sunset sensor kit. The brass wall plates that the brass balls mount to and some brass tri-clusters.

As I move along I will post additional pictures. Hopefully, I will get time to take the same exposure before and after pictures as I get it working. I'm taking a break right now since the attic is too hot to continue working up there.
 

Rothrandir

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awesome! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/drool.gif

talk about an ambitious project! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif
 

jtice

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Sounds like a great project Wayne.
I like that sorta accesnt lighting also, not too strong, but enough.

Please keep us posted on how it goes. We want pics of the finished product. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

IlluminatingBikr

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Cool! I would love to see some pics when you finish it of course. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

CM

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Keep us posted please. I have a similar project for outdoor lighting and would love to see how your indoor lighting project works out. I like the idea of using Cat5 for power distribution. It's cheap and easy to work with compared to the 14Ga stuff required for MR16 type current loads.
 

dat2zip

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Here is the first light on the system. It's for the front porch and the camera at low light levels doesn't do a good job in maintaining the correct color correction.

With Flash.
e640_DSCN7469.jpg



Without flash
e640_DSCN7470.jpg


With 1W Luxeon.
e640_DSCN7471.jpg

It looks a lot better than the picture shows.

My older Kodak shows both as black images. At least this one registered something.

Wayne
 

CM

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Sorry if this has been answered elsewhere but what is a McCan? I did a search and could not find a picture. Thanks.

CM
 

Darell

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LOCO is more like it.
The McCan is basically the head of a McLux to be used for a purpose OTHER than lighting the end of a McLux. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Way cool Wayne. Since you're freed up from filling orders, would you build me a relay box like that? That's pretty much my missing link at this point. I have the lights, I have the photo switch, and I have the power. Now I just need the relays and THE TIME.
 

dat2zip

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A McCan is/was the original fixed lighting that I started with Don when we worked on the McLux. If you recall our original partnering was in fixed lighting. The McLux head coupled with the Locline adaptor makes a fixed lighting fixture that uses Locline as the mounting mechanism.

I still have a few black Locline adaptors and now that I'm going full tilt, I might end up using them all.

You can find the locline adaptor listed on the shoppe (when it come back up).

You can also find locline stalks that are ready to mount and magnetic locline bases with locline.

All these components go together to make different configurations.

e640_DSCN7218.jpg


Wayne
 

McGizmo

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If I may......

Below is a McCan on a loc-line stalk:

McCan-stalk-rail.jpg


And below again is a McCan prototype with the bezel cap replaced by a flange for flush mounting:

McCan-flush-face.jpg


McCan-flush-side.jpg


Some of us like *real* hands free LED lighting that gets turned on automatically when the sun goes down..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Link to some LED lighting installations

- Don
 

McGizmo

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/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif
 

Ratus

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Miami,FL
Is there going to be a battery backup?

This sounds like a great blackout/emergency lighting setup.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

shankus

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Mojave, CA
[ QUOTE ]
Ratus said:
Is there going to be a battery backup?

This sounds like a great blackout/emergency lighting setup.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Good question...
 

CM

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So I take it the McCan can house a McFlood or an NX05 optic?

Doh, sandwich shop is down for maintenance. So if I wanted a McCan, I need to buy a McLux? More apologies for these questions but you guys got me worked up in a frenzy. I really thought I was on my own when I was looking at LED home lighting projects, didn't know I had these veterans around me.

CM
 

yclo

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fb236cf1.jpg


McCan, just like all McLux battery packs, can be screwed into all E-series bezels except for the KL4. The Black bit in the KL4 is too wide.

-YC
 

McGizmo

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Wayne and Darell,

I was only trying to add some examples here. Unless the lights are added as accent lighting or as elements of interest, the lights typically shouldn't be seen; rather they are used to illuminate areas or objects to be seen.

Wayne, your light doesn't suck! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif The one I showed above on the wood rail is mounted in a plastic project box very similar to yours. The box is mounted on the back side of the wood rail.

I think the coolest thing about using LED's for low level lighting is that they can, for all intents and purposes, be hidden and not part of the visual scene. It's cool mounting them in wood, rock, stucco or sheet rock and they aren't even noticed unless they are on.

Want an example of a light that "sucks" but does work well?

sf-install.jpg


These down lights are butt ugly, low budget and functional as heck. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif


As far as placing these LED light systems on battery back up, provided the timer or photo switch is on the low voltage side, it is very easy to power these off a deep cycle SLA which is charged, as needed, by a smart charger run on the A/C. In the event of a power outage, depending on the size of the SLA, you may have days of off grid lighting. The integrated system that I have in my home is probably good for about a week.

- Don
 

McGizmo

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As Wayne stated above, one of the primary objectives of the McLux project was to use the McLux head as a first round part for fixed lighting as well. We went with a modular approach so we could get more use from the same group of parts. Somehow we have been side tracked by portable lighting (flashlights) because they are fun and a challenge. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Now that Wayne has come out with the down boy, we can get back to work on the fixed lighting applications.

As YC has stated, the cavity in the existing loc-line adapter for E series heads has too small of an ID for not only the KL4 but the E-can as well. These parts were too expensive anyway and the next run will be compatible with more components as well as not so pricy.

As a side note, one could use a string of KL1's on either a 6 volt SLA system or off a computer 5VDC power supply. I think a 12 volt system is better as you can get by with smaller wire gauge as well as incoporate clusters of the small LED's along with the Luxeons. In many cases, the Luxeon is too bright and overkill for a low level, ingress & egress, lighting system.

- Don
 

CM

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Wayne & Don,

Looking forward to your work on fixed lighting applications. At least the wife will be more tolerant of $$ spent on that instead of "cool flashlights" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I agree 12V is ideal for power distribution, coupled with the ubiquitous Cat5, it's a very economical and safe distribution system.

CM
 

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