Poor Man’s Zebralight-Inspired Headlamp

Hi all!

This is a Trustfire Z-1

And this is after some reflector trimming to decrease throw and enhance spill.



With clip removed and a single layer of milky tape added on the glass, the Z-1 was turned into a Zebralight like headlamp.



Well you don't actually have to shorten the reflector...There are some benefits but it is up to you to decide if it is worth the trouble. More gains were gotten from the addition of the milky tape concerning flood performance.
But sometimes we do things 'cos this is CPF, don't we?

Overall Impressions

Build quality is very good for such a price ($15). Pics show it...

http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/7514/webigp7104.jpg
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Very good levels (high-low-strobe)....High is 170-180 lumens, Low is 25 with RCRs. Levels are a bit lower with CR123s. Low mode is very good for reading, something that my H501 did not end up being good at, with too high a medium mode and too low a low one (for my reading light likes).

And one bad thing. It warms up pretty much but not that much as soem othe rcheap lights. I have inserted 2 pieces of aluminum food tray material under the rubber band that holds the light. Holding pressure was regulated to be better than the ZLs yet allow removal of the light and not stretch the rubber too much decreasing service life.

Measurements



Comparing numbers after the modification hotspot intensity was reduced by 25%, spill (one foot from center) was increased 10% and the addition of the milky tape robbed only 4 %, which is very close to the Zebralight losses for the –F models

Beamshots



Trustfire Z-1 & Sunwayman M10R (0 Stop)



Trustfire Z-1 & Sunwayman M10R (-2 Stop)



Z-1 "flood beam", very close to the ZL x01F models (0 & -2 Stop)

Seems I like this compromise beam more and more. It is great for short range work, but maintains a hotter center good for close work. Yet is not objectionable for tasks light reading.
Infact, after 3 days of bedttime reading I like it even more!

I looks like it would be a better thrower than my ZL H31w. I like the GITD button - nice touch. Wish there was some way to attach a pocket clip to my H31w too without using the rubber sleeve they give you.

Just one question - does this headlamp use PWM to control the lower settings?
I know the ZLs do on the subsettings but since the frequency is so high it doesn't really bother me.

Nice review. I have one being shipped at the moment as well.

just a sec, it is not a headlamp....its is a flashlight turned headlamp....

was my hand stiching that good to pass like a factory one? LOL

I did not check for PWM on low, but at a price of 15-17 bucks and coming from china I would be my car taht it is PWM controlled!

If you unscrew the reflector housing and remove it entirely, do you get a wide floody beam?

Imon said:

Just one question - does this headlamp use PWM to control the lower settings?

Click to expand...

Yes. My Z1 has quite noticeable PWM on the Lo setting (much more so than my H501 and H51F on medium, which is sort of equivalent to the Z1's Lo).

Bolster said:

If you unscrew the reflector housing and remove it entirely, do you get a wide floody beam?

Click to expand...

Yes, it gives a suprisingly even beam, a bit wider than my H501 (maybe 120 degrees wide compared with the 80 degrees of the H501). It does leave the LED a bit vulnerable though, as the reflector itself screws into the light, so it can't be run with the head installed without the reflector inside).

I wish I owned a lathe. All I own is a mill. With a lathe it would be a cinch to machine a fitting that screws in, but whose job is just to protect/seal the LED. Then you'd have a floody light.

Nice writeup/review. What are you using for a headband?

Thanks,
baker

Gregozedobe said:

Yes. My Z1 has quite noticeable PWM on the Lo setting (much more so than my H501 and H51F on medium, which is sort of equivalent to the Z1's Lo).

Click to expand...

Yeah .... thanks! I should have been more specific with my question

High frequency PWM doesn't bother me. I have a ZL H31w and even on the low subsetting I have a hard time noticing it unless I'm observing either one of two thing - moving water or falling/flying objects. Those two things, for me, is the bane of PWM flashlight everywhere.
I have a Coleman Exponent headlamp that uses a low frequency PWM on its low setting but I don't use it anymore because using it on moving water gives me a headache. Also I remember once my buddy threw me a drink and watching it fly through the air was like watching it in slow motion - it threw me off and the drink slipped through my fingers :duh2:

Hmmm, I'm probably not the best person to comment, as low frequency PWM just doesn't seem to bother me.

I can say the PWM of the Z1 on Lo seems about the same as the PWM on Lo on my older (M/L/H) Maratac AAA light, and definitely more noticeable then the PWM of my ZL SC30 set to Lo/Lo.

If you can list any other lights that have PWM that you can/can't tolerate I will compare with them if I have them.

Bolster said:

I wish I owned a lathe. All I own is a mill. With a lathe it would be a cinch to machine a fitting that screws in, but whose job is just to protect/seal the LED. Then you'd have a floody light.

Click to expand...

well i would go a step further...I would open up the hole and install a larger fiiting/lens

Now, on the PWM issue, I just tried it.....it is rather slow, but not as slow as my fenix L0D-CE..to get teh impression if you point the light at you and move your hand fast, but not very fast, you will see those images of light taht are spaced apart about 1/3 of the light disc diameter....(my L0d_Ce goes a full diameter apart...)

Mine just arrived today. It's impressive for the price. Regarding taking the head off for a flood beam. It doesn't seem like it would be hard to protect that opening. A piece of clear tape would even be a temporary solution.

I used some 1/8" bungee and made a necklace which works fairly well. I just stretched the bungee and tied the knots tight to it easy to adjust the up/down orientation of the beam. I left the clip on so it can also be clipped to a belt. It can sit upright on a table and with the head removed makes a very light flood light.

I bought it just to play around/experiment with and I'm pleased so far. It uses one CR123 and is much brighter than my BD Spot on high and with a nicer beam.

You could just clip it on any headband but the orientation would be a bit annoying with the body in the horizontal position...you eyes would be looking at the end of the body.

Now that I look at it you should be able to get the reflector out of the head...they had to put it in there after all. I'm not sure I could do it without damaging the reflector but if all you ever wanted as a flood beam you could probably do it.

gcbryan said:

Now that I look at it you should be able to get the reflector out of the head...they had to put it in there after all. I'm not sure I could do it without damaging the reflector but if all you ever wanted as a flood beam you could probably do it.

Click to expand...

As I said in post #7 on my example the reflector itself screws into the head, and the head screws onto the reflector. So unless you can make up a dummy spacer with two lots of threads to replace the reflector I can't see any way to properly attach the head to the body without using the reflector.

I found it pretty easy to unscrew the reflector from the body, and it wasn't difficult to unscrew the head from the reflector.

Gregozedobe said:

As I said in post #7 on my example the reflector itself screws into the head, and the head screws onto the reflector. So unless you can make up a dummy spacer with two lots of threads to replace the reflector I can't see any way to properly attach the head to the body without using the reflector.

I found it pretty easy to unscrew the reflector from the body, and it wasn't difficult to unscrew the head from the reflector.

Click to expand...

Ah! My mistake. You are right. I hadn't noticed that. I suppose you could paint the reflector matte black and leave it in if you wanted to permanently have a flood light.

Or just put a piece of translucent tape over the glass as Kospap has already done.

(oops wrong thread/post lol. sollie.)

Ultrafire and Trustfire copy everybody.

they probably were both inspired by the old Fulton anglehead military flashlights.

> machine a fitting that screws in, but whose job is just to protect/seal the LED. Then you'd have a floody light.

I wish someone would. Or just tell me what the thread/pitch/size is so I can go looking for a threaded ring to replace the whole reflector piece.

Meanwhile I've cut little plastic domes out of the carriers that hold an individual contact lens; those bulge a bit put behind the bezel and diffuse pretty well.