Zebralight H51F and H51W

marcis

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Jan 29, 2010
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Hello

I have owned the zebralight H51F now for about a month and a half now, but I am not sure if I would like the H51W more. I have read several of H51(X) comparisons/beam shots/etc on this forum, but have never really read much comparing the H51F with any of the other H51 models.

Does anyone have both of these models ? which is more useful ?

I currently use my H51F for everything.. I work at a recording studio and its often low lit. I use it to find cables in low lighting, cleaning in low lighting. More recently I have been using it to do night time yard work (leaf blowing, raking, etc). I use it for everything. Which is a more useful beam for all purpose ? maybe even one of the other h51 models, that I did not mention, or any upcoming model ?

I know lots of h51 threads exist, I have read most all of them. I just have never really found my answers. I would love to own all zebralight models, but money does not allow for that right now.
 

Bolster

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Just my personal opinion, but the only H51X I'm interested in is the H51Fw. I think you'd find the neutral tint useful for tracking colors of wires, and also for distinguishing natural green/brown colors. Whether you want spot or flood is your call, but have a look through the flood list referenced in my sig line.
 

marcis

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How about the small difference in lumens between models ? 164 h51fw vs 190 h51f. I have read comments left by a few people saying its not that noticeable, but I can see a big difference between 133 and 190 on my h51f.
 

Bolster

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wrong link ????

?? No ... what's wrong with it?

Cut and paste from that link to help answer your previous question:

4. Beam tint & artifacts -- more and more enthusiasts are turning to neutral and warm tints in LEDs as top manufacturers make them available. They excel in the out-of-doors, where they allow the user to better distinguish shades of brown and green, and also for workers who must distinguish colors (of electrical wires, for example). They're usually a few lumens less than the cool-tints. Enthusiasts tend to shun green and purple tints. Blue tints, a.k.a. 'cool tint,' are readily available and are preferred by some for their brilliance. Beams with no discernible tint are highly sought after. Recently coming to the market, high-CRI lights (which may come in a variety of tints) attempt to more closely mimic the full spectrum of color that incans are blessed with, and do a better job of illuminating browns, oranges, and reds, since red emissions are weak for traditional white LEDs. Tint is very much an area of personal preference, as well as task. For example, does tint really matter when you're using the light to read a book? But once you determine your tint preference, you may find tint preference becomes more important than a light's brightness. It's common to see enthusiasts giving up lumens for a preferred tint.

Specialty red and green LEDs are available for people (such as astronomers, soldiers, sailors, and hunters) who are trying to retain night vision. Some manufacturers build a red LED into multi-beam lights for an all-in-one solution.

Many enthusiasts are intolerant of beam artifacts of any sort. Most manufacturers have figured out how to eliminate them. Mild artifacts are of little consequence if you're hiking at night, but can be annoying if you're trying to read with them, or check paint coverage on a wall, etc. Artifacts become worse at closer distances.

5. Brightness required (often discussed as lumens) depends on usage. Newbies think that brighter is always better, and sometimes, that's true. Bicyclists, joggers, search-and-rescue, and cavers generally can't get enough light, and crave multi-hundred (or even thousand) lumen headlamps. Don't chase small percentage increases in brightness, however. A 20% increase in intensity may be barely noticeable, if you're concentrating on seeing a difference, but it takes around 100% increase before a beam looks significantly brighter, and intensity must be 300%-400% to look twice as bright. And yes, a light can be too bright. If you are working in a crawlspace or attic, you may find anything above 50 lumens is too bright. If you're reading in the dark, 10 lumens can be too bright. If you're on a sailboat at night, observing stars, checking on your sleeping kids, or otherwise trying to preserve your night vision, you may find even 1 lumen too bright. So make sure your light goes as low as you need it, not just as high as you need it.
 
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5150Bronco

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I am looking to the the h51w for backpacking. Any experience with this specific application?
 

tedh

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Oct 27, 2009
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yes, that's what I use it for. I rigged up my own removable diffuser because I wanted the option of a floodier beam. Still, the unadulterated beam profile is good enough to spot trail markers, while also functional around camp. I have two gripes - one, the silicone holder is a bit bouncy, and not that comfortable. Somebody posted a replacement mount they rigged from an old Petzl Tikka baseplate with two clips to hold their ZL, and that seems like a good idea. Second, because the emitter is so close to your head, the sidespill seems to catch the edge of my glasses, giving a bit of glare. It's not a big deal (and no issue if you don't wear glasses), but it's mildly annoying. The color tint is great, though, and the light weight is excellent.

Ted
 

5150Bronco

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Thanks Ted. Did you get diffuser for around camp? Did you find out about the silicone holder?

I wonder if the light is fine just for average walking though.
 

tedh

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That's right, the diffuser was for around camp (or reading). I'm not sure I understand your question about the silicone holder? And yes, it's perfectly fine for average walking. It's great for that, my complaints are minor.

Ted
 

5150Bronco

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May 1, 2011
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yes, that's what I use it for. I rigged up my own removable diffuser because I wanted the option of a floodier beam. Still, the unadulterated beam profile is good enough to spot trail markers, while also functional around camp. I have two gripes - one, the silicone holder is a bit bouncy, and not that comfortable. Somebody posted a replacement mount they rigged from an old Petzl Tikka baseplate with two clips to hold their ZL, and that seems like a good idea. Second, because the emitter is so close to your head, the sidespill seems to catch the edge of my glasses, giving a bit of glare. It's not a big deal (and no issue if you don't wear glasses), but it's mildly annoying. The color tint is great, though, and the light weight is excellent.

Ted

here where you mentioned the silicone holder is bouncy....Thanks for the input.
 
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