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Thread: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

  1. #1111

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    Okay, so I decided to procrastinate and take a few pics. Oh, and by the way, WARNING, PIC-HEAVY (ish)


    This first is to illustrate what I am talking about. The latest ZL headbands come with a small slit at the top. I have no idea if this is what it's supposed to be used for, but it seems very likely. I didn't spend much time fiddling with the straps because I wanted to do this as quickly as possible, but you should get the picture (LITERALLY ZOMG). The H502 is on my forehead, and the SC51 strap is looped through the slit and around the back of the H502 strap:





    Then, for the purposes of illustrating the difference, here are some very rough and ready shots (taken with my phone) of the difference it makes to the beam. Also, please do not mock my tiny kitchen/apartment. I have to cook there.


    H502 by itself:






    SC51 by itself:






    H502 and SC51 on at the same time:






    Hopefully that helps!
    Last edited by Philonous; 07-26-2012 at 04:45 PM.

  2. #1112

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 X-ML

    Quote Originally Posted by Cataract View Post
    Mine just shipped yesterday and I already dreamt I received it. Actually, in my dream, I had 2 H502d and 1 H600W. the 502's were golden, had the diameter of a pencil and there was a reflector that could be installed/removed along with a diffusing material made of plastic (like every beam profiles in 1!!!) The H600 could run on 1XAA by removing an extension and the AA just held by spring pressure since the tube is too wide. I should stop eating so late.
    Good to hear that I'm not the only one having flashlight dreams! Unfortunately, when I wake up, I can't remember them much longer than a single alkaline AA can deliver enough current to fully enjoy a Zebralight on high . Others have better memory though, and I'd love to hear about your dreams. I think the topic deserves a dedicated thread in the Café. If no one else creates one I might, in Cataract's honor of course.
    Last edited by Swede74; 07-26-2012 at 04:46 PM.

  3. #1113

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    Quote Originally Posted by Philonous View Post


    Hopefully that helps!
    That looks ... excellent! It almost makes me want to consider the SC51 rather than the HL51

  4. #1114

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    It's a touch stressed there because I didn't bother to set the straps up right (my SC51, combined with a TwoFish, already serves as my bike light, so keeping it that way all the time isn't an option), but if you set it up right, and run the SC51's strap doubled-up through the rubber holder (makes it more stable), it really is ace. I mean, they're both so light that the extra specialisation is totally worth any weight penalty. Plus, you get 460 lumens total, with totally respectable 200+ lumen specialised outputs.


    To be honest, I can't figure why they're not selling this harder. And if it's because it wasn't their intention, well... it ought to be!

  5. #1115
    Flashaholic* B0wz3r's Avatar
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    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    Quote Originally Posted by Philonous View Post
    Okay, so I decided to procrastinate and take a few pics. Oh, and by the way, WARNING, PIC-HEAVY (ish)


    This first is to illustrate what I am talking about. The latest ZL headbands come with a small slit at the top. I have no idea if this is what it's supposed to be used for, but it seems very likely. I didn't spend much time fiddling with the straps because I wanted to do this as quickly as possible, but you should get the picture (LITERALLY ZOMG). The H502 is on my forehead, and the SC51 strap is looped through the slit and around the back of the H502 strap:




    That's pretty much exactly how I have my bike helmet set up. I strapped one of my extra ZL brackets on under the visor and have a two fish lock block on top for a regular flashlight. I use my H51w on the front, and my Jet III Pro ST on the top. The ST gives me a nice throwy beam for getting light down range, and the H51w gives me good up close flood light.

    Here's a pic of it.



    I generally only use the ZL when I'm off the bike. I have a neutral QAA on another lock block on my handlebars for light directly in front of my bike.
    What? Me? Derail a thread?

  6. #1116
    Flashaholic* psychbeat's Avatar
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    Same general idea on my helmet light.
    Just integrated into one box.






    With a van quad xpg on the bars of course

    I used to use an H51 coupled with one of my p60 hosts zip tied to my visor.

    Was a bit fiddly.

    The 18650 w version of the h502 might be too hard to pass up for me.. Depending on the tint bin used.

  7. #1117

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    nice full-face, psychbeat!

    Do you ride that on the road, as well?

  8. #1118
    Flashaholic* psychbeat's Avatar
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    ^^naw I've got a skid lid for riding around the city.

    Then I just use my h501w on blink as a necklace (mines on an adjustable shock cord) facing to the rear.
    And one of my p60 hosts on the bars.

  9. #1119

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    Not getting how the SC51 is strapped in. I didn't know the SC series flashlights even came with a headlamp type holder. How is the strap held in place going longitudinally from the front of your head to the back? What is holding it in place as it is not wrapped under your chin. Also what is this slit you are referring to?

  10. #1120

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    Beacon of Light, to elaborate a bit on the post by Philonous, sometime back in 2011 ZebraLight started issuing headband lamp holders with a slit that many of us speculate was for use with a top headband support. Although ZL has never released an actual top support to go along with this (as far as I know), the slit is still there and a few folks have rigged top supports for themselves.

    When Philonous said, "The latest ZL headbands come with a small slit at the top," what he meant was that the headband lamp holders have a small slit at the top. Sorry, Philonous -- just clarifying that part.

    Here are a couple of pics clearly showing the ZL holders with slits:





    Referring back to the photo that Philonous posted: Using that slit, it's easy enough to loop an extra length of headband material (like an extra ZL headband which often comes as part of the headlamp purchase) through the slit and around the part of the headband that's at the back of the head, forming a top support. It's also easy to slip an extra ZL holder of the right size onto the rigged up top support and slide in whatever flashlight will fit (ZL or other, depending on what you've got that has the right approximate diameter and small size...but since the ZL holders come in several sizes, they can accommodate a pretty good range of small flashlight diameters, so you'd pick a holder of the right size to accommodate the flashlight you want to use). I don't have any pics of that the last part I described, but maybe Philonous will post a pic or two showing the top and back in a little more detail.

  11. #1121

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    Sorry, been away for a few days. Yes, varuscelli has it pretty much covered. I'll try and post some pictures in the next few days, but all I have is my camera phone, so it's hard to take a pic of myself (and the ever-patient gf is away at the moment).

  12. #1122
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    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    I'd like to give some quick, use specific, observations regarding my new 502d. I was hesitant to get another Zebralight since I don't use my SC600 due to the sickly green light it produces but after using the 502d for the past week, I couldn't be more impressed.

    Knowing that I'd be spending several days wiring low voltage interfaces in areas with very low light, I ordered the 502d just in time to start the project. Compared to the cool white headlamps I'd used previously, conductor colors were easy to distinguish and there was little annoying glare reflecting from the shiny shields on the interfaces. The flood beam made perfect head positioning unnecessary, which greatly reduced fatigue. The creamy white color is easy on the eyes, no headaches! All of the work was done with the 40 L setting and the 502d lasted a whole shift on 1 freshly charged Eneloop.

    After a day I did find the strap slightly irritating and ended up clipping the light to the brim of a ball cap and used it this way for the next 4 days.

    While the 502d would not be my choice for running or biking etc, I could tell from the first minute of use that I'd chosen the perfect tool for this particular need. I really like the daylight tint and hopefully it will find it's way into other Zebralight products as well.

  13. #1123
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    Finally, after being soooo hesitant about it for over a month, I ordered the H502D from zebralight. I'll see how it helps me on the aircraft for running my checklists and while in flight. Will post my results here I guess.


    -Alex

  14. #1124

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    I've received my 502d recently as well, and it's far brighter than I expected. I can see the next couple meters very clearly even on the 40 lm setting, and 72 is plenty enough for most of my needs. I have SC600 for throw anyway. Huge viewing angle is definitely an asset to this light!

  15. #1125

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    EDIT: Oops, accidental doublepost. >_>

  16. #1126

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    Is the H502d just available at ZebraLight's website? I recently placed an order, and the cheap ass in me is wondering if I bought it at the lowest price possible.

    I was stoked when I found out the H502d fit my criteria for a new light. It's my first light from ZebraLight. Not only is the H502d made by a company that I'm highly interested in, it has all the key characteristics of a light I want (and not just some).

  17. #1127

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    So what are the numbers for the daylight compared to the cool white, neutral and then warm white on the color spectrum? Is daylight closer to cool white or closer to neutral? I have tried warm and neutral lights before and I cant stand the sickly yellow 1970's incandescent tint. It sort of depresses me thinking back to that time when a flashlight took 2 D cell batteries and was a monstrocity. LED lights were a big innovation with whiter light and longer lasting bulbs and more efficient. I haven't looked back to the 1970s and don't care to with my flashlights.

  18. #1128

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    Hi all,

    I have a question that I hope you might be able to help with. I work on film sets and we're doing a couple of months of night shoots, so my working 'day' is in the dark, and we're outdoors on a runway. So far I've been using a petzl myolite as my headtorch and a 4sevens QuarkAA as my throw/detail light.

    Last night my quark stopped working. I'm going to send it back but in the meantime it's given me pause to think about getting a new light or headtorch. Most of what I'm using it for is hunting around the cameras getting lens serial numbers, reel numbers etc, and as additional light to type things up on my laptop. Would a flood beam like the 502 be sufficient for seeing detail in the close up environment like this and would I notice the lack of hotspot for getting details or is it bright enough in it's own. Ultimately I'll have the quark back for pointing into awkward, hard to reach places, but I'm thinking a decent headtorch would replace 90% of what I currently use the quark for while remaining hands free.

    Also, does the flood beam tend to be blinding to people working around you, as there are usually 2-3 other people working on the camera or rig at the time.

    The other lights I looked at are the H51w and H51fw, would either of these be a better solution do you think?

    Thanks for your help.

  19. #1129
    Flashaholic* Bolster's Avatar
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    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    Magicfingers:

    Generally a floody headlamp is considered superior for work out to a yard (or a couple of yards) away as it gives you good peripheral vision, and no hotspot that causes your iris to shut down unduly. A hotspot means you either have to wait for your iris to open back up before you can see normally in low ambient light, or you must use another bright light to compensate. If you must go from seeing lit items close-up and then seeing in ambient darkness, then a hotspot is actively working against you. You'd want a light that didn't ratchet down your iris so much. A hotspot is like a caffein hit...you can see great while it's on an object but then you're blind when it's gone and need more to continue. Not so with a soft floody light; the eye adapts quickly between lit and unlit with a soft flood.

    A flood also means you don't have to swivel your head around to get the bright part of the beam into position. Given the tasks you state, it sounds like a floody headlamp would be appropriate.

    Whether your flood will blind others depends on the level you have it at, and where the others are looking at your face a lot. On the lower mid and lower levels, I've not had complaints from co-workers, or seen them look away, and sometimes, co-workers "borrow" the wide beam themselves (even while it's still on my head, they can see their work better).

    If you are using your headlamp for a lot of walking or fast movement at night, you might find the H51fw best as it throws a bit farther--it's more the favorite of the night hikers and trailrunners. However if your work is primarily examining numbers and your laptop, then an H502 on a low setting should be ideal. It's a favorite of workers who use their hands. I do a lot of contracting work and the H502 is the best I've owned for handwork. Also works great for late night computer sessions, providing just enough light to see the keyboard.
    Last edited by Bolster; 08-08-2012 at 09:45 AM.

  20. #1130

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    yeah I do know about the slit now that I see what you are talking about. I noticed that on my new H502s.

    My brain is still struggling to visualize where the top strap connects to in the back? I am assuming the strap is basically holding on in the front by the thin rubber strip, which it would seem over time would result in the strip breaking if a bit of stress was continuously pulling on that thin piece of rubber. Where does the band connect to in the back?

    Pictures would be great to display this as I cannot visualize this at all. As well as not visualizing where the top band connects to the horizontal H502 holder or strap in back, I cannot visualize how 2 closed looped bands can cross each other. Seems like a magic trick where the magician is holding 2 round metal hoops and with a razzamatazz he can make them link together even though they are completely solid rings with no openings. That is my visualization of the Zebralight straps. Seems like magic.

    Quote Originally Posted by varuscelli View Post
    Beacon of Light, to elaborate a bit on the post by Philonous, sometime back in 2011 ZebraLight started issuing headband lamp holders with a slit that many of us speculate was for use with a top headband support. Although ZL has never released an actual top support to go along with this (as far as I know), the slit is still there and a few folks have rigged top supports for themselves.

    When Philonous said, "The latest ZL headbands come with a small slit at the top," what he meant was that the headband lamp holders have a small slit at the top. Sorry, Philonous -- just clarifying that part.

    Here are a couple of pics clearly showing the ZL holders with slits:





    Referring back to the photo that Philonous posted: Using that slit, it's easy enough to loop an extra length of headband material (like an extra ZL headband which often comes as part of the headlamp purchase) through the slit and around the part of the headband that's at the back of the head, forming a top support. It's also easy to slip an extra ZL holder of the right size onto the rigged up top support and slide in whatever flashlight will fit (ZL or other, depending on what you've got that has the right approximate diameter and small size...but since the ZL holders come in several sizes, they can accommodate a pretty good range of small flashlight diameters, so you'd pick a holder of the right size to accommodate the flashlight you want to use). I don't have any pics of that the last part I described, but maybe Philonous will post a pic or two showing the top and back in a little more detail.

  21. #1131

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    Quote Originally Posted by Beacon of Light View Post
    So what are the numbers for the daylight compared to the cool white, neutral and then warm white on the color spectrum? Is daylight closer to cool white or closer to neutral? I have tried warm and neutral lights before and I cant stand the sickly yellow 1970's incandescent tint. It sort of depresses me thinking back to that time when a flashlight took 2 D cell batteries and was a monstrocity. LED lights were a big innovation with whiter light and longer lasting bulbs and more efficient. I haven't looked back to the 1970s and don't care to with my flashlights.
    I've no idea what do you mean by neutral, but for me the d version's tint is the very definition of neutral. There isn't a single hint of blue, purple, or green; white looks white with a slight nudge towards ivory at higher brightness levels. I'll try making a white wall beamshot with manual white balance tonight, and probably some comparison shots with a couple other lights I have.
    Last edited by moozooh; 08-08-2012 at 11:14 AM.

  22. #1132

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    I actually got the numbers I was looking for on Zebralight's product comparison.

    6300k - Cool White XP-G and XM-L
    6000k - Cool White XP-E (H501)
    5000k - Daylight (H502D)
    4200k - Warm White XP-E, XP-G and XM-L
    4000k - High CRI XP-E Rebel

    I'm not sure but I would assume the H30w I have is the same as the readings from the list at 4200k. That said I cannot stand using my H30w for any length of time (as well as a H31w I returned to Going Gear last year for the cool white version) as it is a sickly yellow casting on everything. Not sure the daylight at 5000k which is only 800k more than the warm white I cannot stand would be enough of a difference to make me like it.

    Quote Originally Posted by moozooh View Post
    I've no idea what do you mean by neutral, but for me the d version's tint is the very definition of neutral. There isn't a single hint of blue, purple, or green; white looks white with a slight nudge towards ivory at higher brightness levels. I'll try making a white wall beamshot with manual white balance tonight, and probably some comparison shots with a couple other lights I have.

  23. #1133

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    Quote Originally Posted by Beacon of Light View Post
    I actually got the numbers I was looking for on Zebralight's product comparison.

    6300k - Cool White XP-G and XM-L
    6000k - Cool White XP-E (H501)
    5000k - Daylight (H502D)
    4200k - Warm White XP-E, XP-G and XM-L
    4000k - High CRI XP-E Rebel

    I'm not sure but I would assume the H30w I have is the same as the readings from the list at 4200k. That said I cannot stand using my H30w for any length of time (as well as a H31w I returned to Going Gear last year for the cool white version) as it is a sickly yellow casting on everything. Not sure the daylight at 5000k which is only 800k more than the warm white I cannot stand would be enough of a difference to make me like it.
    Isn't 4200K neutral, instead of warm?

  24. #1134
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    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    Yes.
    Hopefully Zebralight will change their nomenclature to 'n' instead of 'w'.
    Real warm-white is circa 3000K.

  25. #1135

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    So if Zebralight's "W" designation is in reality a "neutral white" I would definitely not like a true "warm white" when the H30 I own is the ugliest tinted beam and the only reason I bought it is it was on clearance from Zebralight for $49. It is definitely not my "Go-to" headlamp, but I will use it if it is the closest one around when I need it. I much prefer any of the cool white models of theirs I own H50/H50B/H31/H502x2 and now just ordered H51 and H51F. Wish the H501 was still for sale. I may have to score one used if I can even find one.

    So my question remains: Is the Daylight model closer to the cool white or the "w" (Neutral white)?

  26. #1136

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    Quote Originally Posted by moozooh View Post
    I'll try making a white wall beamshot with manual white balance tonight, and probably some comparison shots with a couple other lights I have.
    So I have, but it turns out my camera doesn't give me absolute control over the combination of exposure, shutter speed, and aperture settings; iow. I can't set all of them manually in the same camera preset. That didn't let me take faithful brightness shots, but I did manage to take a tint comparison shot with white balance set to match what my eyes could see as closely as possible—which, mind you, was still far from perfect match. The camera is Canon PowerShot G9, by the way.

    From left to right: noname Chinese 16x LED headlamp with 8 LEDs active; H502d; cheapo Camelion 7x LED 2x D cell light; SC600 with XM-L U2. The wall is very very light grey, almost pure white.



    (Click the image for a larger version.)

    Unfortunately I gifted my Thrunite Ti to my girlfriend, which is a shame because 502d's tint is closer to it than to anything else on the image. IIRC the Ti has XP-E 5700K inside. SC600 is 6300K or so, the other two on this photo are 7000K+. I don't have anything warm-tinted/incan in the household anymore... well, at least something I could use for such a comparison. Anyway, this tint is the future. The imperfect color balance on the camera and the wall's inherent muddiness made the beam appear a tad greenish, but actually it's very clean creamy white going into ivory. If H502d needs anything it's more brightness per watt, everything else about it is, to put it simply, perfect.

    By the way, to address the earlier discussion about the green fringe on vanilla 502: it's not there on the 502d. None at all! Keep in mind that it might have something to do with XM-L being around three times larger than the Rebel used here and thus interacting with the GitD reflector differently with its sidespill.

  27. #1137

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    Quote Originally Posted by Beacon of Light View Post
    So what are the numbers for the daylight compared to the cool white, neutral and then warm white on the color spectrum? Is daylight closer to cool white or closer to neutral? I have tried warm and neutral lights before and I cant stand the sickly yellow 1970's incandescent tint. It sort of depresses me thinking back to that time when a flashlight took 2 D cell batteries and was a monstrocity. LED lights were a big innovation with whiter light and longer lasting bulbs and more efficient. I haven't looked back to the 1970s and don't care to with my flashlights.
    I only have the Xeno E03 as a point of reference and its 5000K XM-L (different LED, I know) gives a slightly yellow cast when reading off white paper. I prefer cooler tints as well and I find the 5000K CCT relatively unoffensive compared to some of the warmer ones I have seen. As a cool fan, 5000K would probably be the lowest I would go.

  28. #1138

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    moozooh, thanks for the beamshots. You mention the H502D is closest in tint to the Thunite Ti, and I have 7 of these little guys. Love the .04 moon mode and the tint is perfect. I may have to consider a H502D or whatever they come out with in the 5000k Daylight tint. On your picture even if the camera white balance isn't exact, I think I prefer the SC600 with the H502D in second. I never used to mind the angry blue tints of the cheapo LED lights but after having quality lights they just seem like cheap toys with that blue / violet tint.

  29. #1139

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    Quote Originally Posted by Beacon of Light View Post
    yeah I do know about the slit now that I see what you are talking about. I noticed that on my new H502s.

    My brain is still struggling to visualize where the top strap connects to in the back? I am assuming the strap is basically holding on in the front by the thin rubber strip, which it would seem over time would result in the strip breaking if a bit of stress was continuously pulling on that thin piece of rubber. Where does the band connect to in the back?

    Pictures would be great to display this as I cannot visualize this at all. As well as not visualizing where the top band connects to the horizontal H502 holder or strap in back, I cannot visualize how 2 closed looped bands can cross each other. Seems like a magic trick where the magician is holding 2 round metal hoops and with a razzamatazz he can make them link together even though they are completely solid rings with no openings. That is my visualization of the Zebralight straps. Seems like magic.

    Sorry, I just haven't been able to take any decent pictures yet. Too busy during the day, too poor a camera to do so at night. But let me explain a couple of things.


    First of all, the ZL headbands aren't "closed" loops. If you look closely at the two plastic 'buckles' on the band, you'll notice then end of the strap looped into one of them. This can be taken out of the buckle, so that the headband is no longer a closed loop and can be looped around (or through) something else. So you undo headband B, and pass it through the slit on headband A. Then at the back, you simply loop headband B around headband A, and then reconnect it.


    Secondly, it does look strained in that pic, but as I say, it was very tight there because I didn't take the time to set it up properly. There'd probably still be some strain, but really, that rubber is pretty tough. You wouldn't believe what I did to my last holder (really!), and it took months to break.


    Anyway, I will try and post a pic tomorrow.

  30. #1140

    Default Re: ZebraLight H502 XM-L

    Bolster, thanks very much for that, does sound like a the 502 would be best for me, now to consider the temp options, wish they'd hurry up with the warm option.

    Cheers.

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