Looking for a spotlight for Photgraphic lightpainting

[MikeAusC]

. . . . . It seems that poor quality LEDs have a low Colour Rendering Index (CRI). However, the flashlights I am looking to potentially purchase use Cree LEDs which, I have read, are high quality. Unfortunately I have been unable to find out the CRI value for Cree LEDs such as the XP-G LED.
Can anyone help me? I'm hoping someone can confirm (or not) that using a flashlight with Cree LEDs for light painting will not return a colour temperature that is difficult to correct in post processing.
. . . .

I've put KaiDomain 4 watt downlights over the Dining Table and I regularly use them for lighting small objects - Auto White Balance has no problem.

On film sets, I regularly see LED Panels being used as fill lights - here it's critical that the fill light matches the CT of the main lights.

If you think LED lights have a CT/WB problem, have look at the spectrum of Fluorescent lights - they have huge spectral peaks compared with LEDs - yet you can usually find a WB setting that works.

[AreBee]

Thanks Mike, that helps me a lot. As mentioned previously, I am familiar with adjusting white balance when required, so if it's as simple as shifting the slider for colour temperature in the image editing software I use then the task is simple. My concern was that I would be required to make adjustments to individual red/green channels. This may not have turned out to be a problem, it's just that I have no experience of doing so previously...and it'd be a shame to spend money on an LED flashlight only to discover that I struggled to correct white balance at a later date.

[AreBee]

Folks,

I'm close to making a purchase and in preparation am now investigating chargers. The Jetbeam RRT-3 XML, which is probably my current top choice, comes with 3 No. 18650 rechargeable batteries but no charger. I could simply purchase a charger for an 18650 type battery but if I am not mistaken should be able to use the charger I use for LiPo (I am aware that 18650 type batteries are LiIon and not LiPo) batteries: the Cellpro Powerlab 8.

If I purchase a battery harness like this and solder a pair of banana connectors on the wire ends am I all set to recharge, or would it be unadvisable without a balance lead? Or do you recommend I simply purchase an 18650 charger unit like this?

Cheers,

Rob

[AreBee]

Folks,

In the end I ordered the Jetbeam RRT-3 XML flashlight. I spotted a website that also threw in a charger with the flashlight, and all for a price less than I'd found elsewhere, so opted for that, as it also solved my issue related to charging, noted previously. I received the flashlight today, charged the batteries (big suckers, to someone who has never before seen 18650 type batteries) and tried it out this evening.

Initial impression is that it certainly is powerful, but the jury is out on whether a less floody beam like the Olight SR90 would be more appropriate. I guess I'm just a little uncertain how the flashlight will backlight the wind turbine blades, given that these will be the most distant from where I will be standing. Time will tell I guess.

Ultimately I'll be keeping the Jetbeam as it is clearly a very fine flashlight. I can also use it as a less specialised light too, as it has a collar to adjust the light output. Actually this was a feature that greatly appealed to me at the time I considered purchasing, because in my opinion it makes this flashlight more versatile.

Thanks for the advice offered by those who responded. Much appreciated.

Rob

[Leoht]

Nice very nice, I look forward to seeing the Pictures. I like the Jet Beam RRT-3 XML I seriously considered buying one a while back.

[AreBee]

...I look forward to seeing the Pictures.

Don't hold your breath. The photograph I have in mind requires:

1. A wind speed less than approximately 5mph so that the turbine blades are not turning (the blades would otherwise be invisible for a long exposure photograph)
2. A clear sky for a significant time duration in order to see the stars;
3. A new moon (i.e. no moon) in order to best see the stars;
4. Snow on the ground in order that unsightly wind farm access tracks are covered over;
5. Perfected backlighting 'turbine light painting' coverage and duration by me.

When all the above are considered together, I suspect the opportunity to capture this particular image will be few and far between. Still, I am prepared to wait. It'll come to me eventually.

Cheers,

Rob

[Marsel]

Rob - I'm also looking for a powerful flashlight for lightpainting large objects from variable distances, and I was wondering if you have used the Jetbeam by now, and whether it uses the Cree XM-L warm white LED's or the cooler ones. Thanks for your help.

[AreBee]

Hey Marsel,

Sorry for the delayed response but I have been on holiday for the previous week.

...I was wondering if you have used the Jetbeam by now, and whether it uses the Cree XM-L warm white LED's or the cooler ones. Thanks for your help.

I've had a play about with the flashlight a little. I do not know the answer to your question with certainty but my guess is that the light produced is of the 'cool' variety.

I recently ran a test in which I shot an indoors scene lit under incandescent light, with the camera white balance also set to incandescent. I then reshot the scene with the light turned off, and the flashlight turned on. Camera white balance was left at incandescent.

The photograph lit by the flashlight has a very pronounced blue colour cast compared to when lit by incandescent lighting. However, this can be remedied in post processing by increasing the colour temperature significantly from 3000 (incandescent range) to approximately 7000 (fluorescent range) degrees Kelvin and reducing the tint. This makes both images broadly comparable, though of course neither look like they would under daylight lighting conditions.

Please take into account that the above values derive from a quick test only. I will need to experiment further to determine the best values to adopt for images that matter.

Hope this helps.

Rob

[md.easin1988]

Thanks for the information, Roger! Those shots of Picasso were taken by Man Ray, actually. I’ll look into Patrick Rochon now.




[IMG]1. http://www.thecoolist.com/light-graffiti-10-masters-of-light-painting-photography/[/IMG]

[kevspiers]

Cant believe I have missed this thread!! I painted in the pylon with a Sunwayman M60R from directly underneath.

[DM51]

^ What on earth are those hollow blue hemispherical lights sitting on the straw bales??!!?

[kevspiers]

In light painting terms they are Domes There are other hollow objects such as orbs

[JDM]

I've been shooting landscapes for over 30 years, but just started light painting about a year ago. Done properly, it can produce some spectacular results. Like many folks on this forum, I've got quite a few lights. I only use one of them for my light painting - a lowly $60 Led Lenser P7. I much prefer it to my $300 lights due to it's unmatched versatility with the adjustable focus. If your beam is too focused and powerful, the beam itself will actually be rendered on the image. If the beam is too soft, insufficient illumination will result. If the beam is too floody (wide), you may end up lighting up subjects that you are trying to keep out of the picture. The P7 is perfect because I can adjust it just right to avoid all of these issues. Below are 2 examples of light painting shots I took last April in Arches National Park near Moab, Utah. Both images were shot at about 3:00am using my P7.



"Stargate"



​"Balanced Rock and Milky Way"

[DM51]

WOW!! JDM, those 2 pics are amazing!

[JDM]

WOW!! JDM, those 2 pics are amazing!

Dear DM51,

Thank you for your kind words. Thank you also for all of the work you put into this forum. It's because of people like you that I can come to this place and learn so much! Hopefully these 2 pictures will show photographer/flashlight enthusiasts that they don't need a ton of money to have fun with light-painting.

[dta116]

JDM, Would you please share the exposure info? SmugMug will not process any EXIF on stored files.

Thank you for the great shots.

[JDM]

JDM, Would you please share the exposure info? SmugMug will not process any EXIF on stored files.

Thank you for the great shots.

dta116,

Both images were shot wide open (f/2.8) at 30 seconds, asa 3200 on a 5DMKII. I tried some longer exposures, but at exposures greater than 30 seconds I started getting star trails. The star trails can be a cool effect, but it's not what I was looking for. I waited until just after moonset at 2:40 am to make the shots. I didn't want any light pollution from the moon to diminish the visibility of the stars or the Milky Way. Focusing was very difficult because Canon lenses do not have hard stops at true infinity. At f/2.8 there is no room for error on the focus. It took me a few iterations before I finally got it right.

It's kind of weird being out late at night in the middle of nowhere all alone. Every sound I would hear caused my imagination to run wild. I can't wait to get out and do it again though. Good luck with your light painting dta116 - have fun!

[dta116]

Doug, The focus issue is one of the reasons I always carry a keychain light so not to bother fellow Photographers when it is pitch black and I can't even see my hand. It helps check the settings and focus after dark. ....Been there..Done that...

[sniper]

GREAT Photos, JDM; of one of my favorite parks...altho I've never been there at 3 A.M.! I thought they closed the gates at sundown.

I've done some light painting, mostly using electronic flash. Whoever said watch those artifacts was right. MOVE that light! I found out the hard way when using a flashlight in conjunction with my electronic flash, to take photos of freeway roadbed damage. A definite " learning experience"!

If I were trying that again, I would probably use an incand MagLite for throw and power, maybe lightly diffused, with the camera white balance pre-set at Incand. That may be too small for your projects, tho. TRIPOD!

I think if you can do most of the manipulation in-camera, you're ahead of the game.

My thing was to dress in dark clothing, plan what I wanted to light, then walk quickly through the exposure area with my electronic flash, IF the exposure was long enough. 30 sec. is obviously not enough, unless you are really fast! A willing assistant helps, like my voice activated, carbon-based remote...my granddaughter.

[JDM]

.........A willing assistant helps, like my voice activated, carbon-based remote...my granddaughter.

I've got to get me one of those........