Hot Diggity Dog! 7x123 and MR16....

Equals one BRIGHT mother huncher light!

It's a 4D M*g with 1" Schedule40, and 3/4" Water pipe spacers.

I found a Sylvania 20W 8 degree MR16 at Lowes. I tried soldering wires to it and then to pins, no go. I tried crimp connections. Nope.

I dremeled the fat pins skinnier, and took some material off so it would sit down in the PR adapter a bit.

I tried 6 cells first, and it was pretty bright. So I stuck a 7th of unknown strength (pretty sure it wasn't used much) and VOILA! Very close to the light, the beam is so intense that I could feel heat on my foot, and had to see it with peripheral vision!

It may not last long, and I don't dare leave it on for more than seconds at a time.

But HOLY MOLEY what a LIGHT!

Yeeha! Incandescents on the edge are FUN!

Dang, I got my MR16 setup (same exact bulb) running in a Mag 3D with three of Da Wiggum's (thanks, Chief!!!) 4AA holders for 18V,and while it does emit a huge flood of bright light, it is not quite up to the nearly-exploding-bulb class of output that I (don't we all?) crave.

Sooooo, how to do this, how to add a "lucky" 13th AA into the mix?

Plus I hear there's a 6° MR16 bulb also!

PBJoe,

You're a true crazyman. I did 6 and you just had to do 7 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif So, you're putting around 19 volts into a 12 V bulb? I can hear the tungsten screaming in agony /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Hearing about your difficulties in making the connection makes me want to whip up a special MR to PR adapter. I'm thinking of using some pinsockets, opened up a bit to aacept the MR16 pins. Then solder 24 gauge wire to the connector end. Run the other end of the wire into a hollowed out PR base. Solder the ends. Of course, I would need some sort of nonconductive spacer to hold the PR/plunger back from the MR pins but I don't think that should be hard at all.

Seeya back here in a couple of days.

Wilkey

I dare you to run a 35W MR16 on a 2x6 stack of liths. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Yeah Wilkey...

I may very well be crazy!

The weak link in my hookup (might be all kinds of resistence built in) is the barely hookup of the pins.

If you can come up with a drop in, I would certainly love to have one or two!!!

I just had it outside in my usual test zone(s). Where most lights I have tried out there will light the house OR the tree approx. 150 feet away... this makes both DAYLIGHT!

At this moment, this may the be absolute best in both throw and volume of ANY light I have. The only one that may be EVEN close, is <runs to test> my Expeditions rechargable SLA battery Spot Light. It has a brighter (but probably because it's tighter) but yellower (DEFINATELY!) beam. The MR16 is a flood light with THROW! AMAZING!

How does one easily run two stacks of batts???

Try running two parallel banks of the 123's for even more output Amps!!!

How to easily do this? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

I think milkyspit was working on some kind of spacers for just this kind of configuration. Check out the MR-X thread.

Also, for an even brighter light, you should check out trying to get a Decostar or Philips Masterline bulb. A 20W bulb in one of these two flavors is the equilivalent of a standard 35W MR16 halogen!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif
Look here to order the Decostar

UPDATE: Hot Diggity Dog! 7x123 and MR16....

... MR16 50W this time!

I can't tell for sure. Can't have them both on at the same time. This 50W has a 12 degree spot. Sylvania Tru-Aim 58629 50MR16/NSP/RP (EXT).

I am pretty sure it would like to draw from a paralel stack of 123s, it looks a trifle yellow compared to the 20W.

The outside test (house and tree some 150-175 feet away) was as good as the 20W as far as lighting the house AND the tree!!!

It takes several seconds for the filament to stop glowing, so I know I'm close!

I think a 35W spot would hit the spot so to speak!

SuperBright On The EDGE Incandescents sure are fun!!!

Re: UPDATE: Hot Diggity Dog! 7x123 and MR16....

Joe,

A 50 watter? That's intense. I'm sure the 4.17 amps it's drawing is too much for a single stack of 123s. A double stack should be right up its alley /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif ...until the bulb pedestal melts from the heat!

I love watching the filament "coast down" It's like watching a sunset of your very own. This is a very "Hot Wire Guy" pleasure. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Wilkey

BTW, you are the farthest out on the edge in a long time. How's the view over?

Re: UPDATE: Hot Diggity Dog! 7x123 and MR16....

I am going to be watching for other SPOT MRs...

Also going to watching for how to make a two stack. I had an idea, but my idea won't work without pipe...

The view backwards towards normal sure looks dim....

Re: UPDATE: Hot Diggity Dog! 7x123 and MR16....

Joe,

". . . how to make a two stack . . ."

When I make a two-stacker, I start with a forward bulkhead. It's an insulating disk, like plastic. I put a hole through the center. I attach an aluminum disk to the backside with a bolt. The nut is attached to the front, flush with the end of the screw, and it makes contact with the plus terminal of the Mag body. The aluminum disk will make contact with the front ends of the 2 battery stacks.

I then put in a piece of dowel, just the right length and just the right diameter. It rests gently on the bulkhead. I may have to thin it with a plane or knife. Then the two stack of batteries, touching one another, go in. I finish this up with an aluminum plate that has three strategically located holes. I pass a sheet metal screw through the plate to attach securely to the dowel. Also there are two rivets piercing the plate that extend forward and contact the 2 negative terminals.

The two battery stacks are now in parallel.

Because the dowel and rear plate are attached, the rivets are in the proper position to reach down into the negative terminals of the last batteries. You won't be able to screw the end cap of the Mag on yet, because of the bumpiness of the end plate. So insert a blank disk of aluminum or a washer first. You should be good to go.

I have done this for 2x3x123, 2x4x125, and even 2x5x123. The only difference is the length of the dowel. Be sure the dowel is short enough so that it doesn't press on the forward bulkhead, but long enough so that it does extend to about the middle of the forward pair of batteries.

Be aware that the voltage applied to your bulb with two stacks will be higher. If you have a 1.8 amp bulb, the batteries will be supplying only 0.9 amps. The voltage will be a little higher, and the run time will be about twice as long. What I'm saying is that you're even closer to that edge with two stacks. Don't fall over. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I wrote up this description -- or something like this -- a while back, but am unable to find it. So I hope this version is helpful to you. Good luck, and keep us posted.

Paul

E D I T . . . This works really well for the Tigerlight lamp assembly and reflector. It's quite a bit brighter than a single stack, and the extra voltage from 2x3x123 doesn't seem to bother it. Run time is over an hour. It's a sweet light. It draws 17 watts, about as bright as an M3 HOLA, 225 lumens.

Re: UPDATE: Hot Diggity Dog! 7x123 and MR16....

That sort of concurs with the way SOME of my thoughts are running...

I think I shall try 2x6x2 against that 50W to start with...

Re: UPDATE: Hot Diggity Dog! 7x123 and MR16....

DRAT!!!

Doing a Two Stack is going to take a trip or three to the hardware store. It is a lot more trouble than I thought... as easy as it sounds.

SO, I was going to put the 20W back in, since the batts seemed to handle it okay. But now one of the pins has fallen out. I can't make contact, therefore another MR bites the dust. ARGH!

I REALLY need an MR socket that I can wire in somehow. I've looked at Lowes and Home Depot... best I can find is a 20 odd dollar fixture I could rob the socket from. And at that, all I have found are the big rectangular sockets that I don't think there is room for anyway.

I think these pins are coming unsoldered from the flat links that I see in there. It may come from serious overdrive, or maybe from my modding the MR to fit in the first place.

Any thoughts???

Re: UPDATE: Hot Diggity Dog! 7x123 and MR16....

Ok, found this:

MR16 Round Socket

How difficult will it/would it be to get the other end of the wires to power and ground?

Re: UPDATE: Hot Diggity Dog! 7x123 and MR16....

I have been operating a 50W MR-16 spot for some time now. Nothing special in the way of battery power, just a 7Ah SLA. I know, it's heavy, but the runtime is worth it--my next design will be using 10-12 NiCd or NiMH cells in series...possibly two sub-C 7.2V R/C car packs? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Re: UPDATE: Hot Diggity Dog! 7x123 and MR16....

Oh, even I know how easy I could hook the wires to an SLA or car battery!

I mean getting connections inside a M*glite!!! I think ground might be easy enough, but hooking to the output from the switch is scaring me!

Re: UPDATE: Hot Diggity Dog! 7x123 and MR16....

Yes, I understand your situation. I didn't mean to be off-topic from your connection issue, but I thought I would mention it while we were on the subject of 50W MR-16s. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Heck...I can't even figure out how to remove the switch assembly from my Mag. I just need to sit down and mess with it...I would also be worried about the switch handling the extreme current involved in your setup! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif

As for sockets, I've tried modifying the pins on MR-16 lamps and it usually ends in failure. Any excessive stress will loosen them from the brittle ceramic cement that holds them in place, and once that goes the lamp wires quickly break, leaving you with your dead lamp. I would not solder to the pins, as the lamp base gets quite warm and could result in failure. You *definitely* need a ceramic socket, or something that's "hot-proof"...I have heard stories of high-temp JB weld used to mount pin receptacles in a PR base. Good luck!!!

Re: UPDATE: Hot Diggity Dog! 7x123 and MR16....

I made a MR-16/PR base adapter using a couple of old sockets from a automobile connector (I think) I had to enlarge the sockets to fit the MR-16 pins, but that's easy. Then I just potted the whole thing in a empty PR base bulbs using Alumiseal, it's a putty type of epoxy. When it dries, it almost feels like ceramic. So far, it's been able to handle a 20W MR-16 running off 12 Ni-mh AA'sin a Mag3D body with no problem. Plus, it's easily removable so I can replace it with another MR-16 bulb or a PR base bulb with no soldering.

JSWrightOC,
to remove the mag switch, just take off the rubber cover and there's an hex screw underneath. Just loosen it(you don't have to remove it, its just a set screw) and slide the switch assembly out the tailcap. The switch seems to handle 20 watts no problem, no arcing or burning noticed. I think they're rated for 2+ Amps.

Re: UPDATE: Hot Diggity Dog! 7x123 and MR16....

PBJoe, I think that socket is ok. I found some that were made by Gilway Lamps. Ceramic bodies with Teflon and silicone insulated wires leads. Their model H989 looks very promising. The leads come out the rear of the connector body making it easier to wire up to a PR adapter base.

InTheDark, I use aluminum-filled JB Weld epoxy for making my high amp PR bases.

Wilkey

Re: UPDATE: Hot Diggity Dog! 7x123 and MR16....

Eh, It's OK anyhow.

While out getting some needed stuff earlier, I went by Lowes and got another 20W (actually two!). I was VERY VERY careful to only lightly remove some material from the pins, and as before tension from the lense holds the MR to the PR adapter which is held into the pedestal without a ring.

It is back to being whiter, but perhaps not as much TOTAL light. It is still just short of AWESOME!

In any case, I couldn't really come up with 5 more 123s just now to do the double stack thing with the 50W.

Wilkey, you mean solder the wires to a PR base? I never thought of that! It sounds pretty easy too! But is there room for all the components if it's done that way???

Re: UPDATE: Hot Diggity Dog! 7x123 and MR16....

Joe,

I don't know that there would be room. It'd be pretty tight at least.For non-focusing torches, I'm wondering if it would be possible to remove the spring loaded pedestal entirely and solder some wire with blade connectors on the other end directly to the contacts in the switch. I did this soldering for a Luxeon mod so I know it can be done.

In fact, in this way, you could actually even skip the MR socket entirely, just run two lengths of high temp insulated wire with blade connectors down to the switch body and solder them to the contacts. Since the MR16 is held in place by the bezel, you could just slip the blade connectors onto the pins like you would for the TigerLight LA. No sockets, just wire. I think that's how a TL works from the pictures of the internals I've seen.

Wilkey

Re: UPDATE: Hot Diggity Dog! 7x123 and MR16....

I can't go ordering it anyway.

I think I'll just be happy as it is now.

But I do need to take another M*g apart, and I'll check out how it looks.