Review of ThruNite Scorpion V2 with outdoor beamshots

HKJ

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[SIZE=+3]ThruNite Scorpion V2[/SIZE]

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ThruNite has for some time been known for the Catapult (Made in V1, V2, V2 XML and V3), a large and very solid thrower light, but lately they have expanded the range of light with more models, in this review I am going to look at the Scorpion V2 tactical light. This light has five modes (lockout, infinite (variable brightness), firefly, strobe, momentary) that can be selected by turning the tailcap, on/off and momentary is done with an electronic tail switch. The light is made of aluminum with hard-anodized (Type 3) finish.

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The light is delivered in a solid black cardboard box with a wrapper around that shows what model is in the box. Inside is foam with cutouts for light and holster.

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The box contains the light, a manual, a warranty card and a holster. There was no o-rings or lanyard.

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The light has a smooth reflector with a XM-L led at the bottom, to protect the glass and give the light a solid front it has a stainless steel bezel.

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It is possible to unscrew both the bezel and the reflector. The reflector part of of the head uses square cut threads with a o-ring.

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As usual on high power lights it has some cooling fins, the rest of the light is covered in knurling.

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The light has a removable clip and it is easy to remove, remove the tailcap and loosen the lock ring (There are no o-rings to remove), now the clip and be removed or mounted again.

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The tailcap is unscrewed by turning on the antiroll roll ring or the knurling just behind the ring. The ring works very well for antiroll, but is not very good for holding the light cigar style.

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The tailcap is mounted with square cut threads, but there is no o-ring on the outside.

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Looking into the light it can be seen that it uses a spring for + connection, i.e. it will work with flattop batteries. Inside the battery tube there is a plastic insert and just above the insert is a o-ring.

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The tailcap is a plastic button and a plastic ring to select mode. The actual function of the button depends on the selected mode. The inside of the tailcap is one big unit. When mounting the tailcap the pins on the tailcap must match a grove in the body, this works automatic, there is no need to do any alignment, just screw it on without using a lot of pressure and the pin will catch the grove.

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  1. Lock-out, button is locked half way down (When turning the ring the button will be pulled down).
  2. Infinite, press button to turn on or off, hold it down when turning on and the brightness will change.
  3. Firefly, press button to turn on or off, this is the lowest mode.
  4. Strobe, button is momentary, strobe is always full brightness.
  5. Momentary, button is momentary, on is always full brightness.

This interface makes it possible to select momentary/strobe/firefly mode before turning the light on. If the light is is on in Infinite or Firefly, the tail can be moved to another position and the button pressed to change to that function.

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The 3 button position: Lock-out, not-pressed and pressed. Except for the lock-out position, the tailcap can be turned to all the other positions with one finger. All positions has a click-stop.

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Here is a adjustment sequence from infinite mode. The button is held down and after 1.5 second the light starts changing brightness, until the button is released again. Both max. and min. is marked with a double flash, there is ample time after the flash to release the button and select min. or max.

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The light is supplied with a holster.

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ThruNite has also made a turbo head for the light, this has a larger reflector to give more throw. In the beamshot comparison I have included the light with both the regular and with the turbo head.


The Scorpion is a very powerful light for its size and has a simple and flexible user interface that can be controlled with one finger and includes lock-out. With the turbo head it is possible to increase the throw a bit. The light is mostly for 18650 batteries, with CR123 it is best to keep the brightness down and only use full brightness in momentary mode.
I like the light with its high brightness and easy user interface.



[SIZE=+3]Technical specification and measurements[/SIZE]

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This light is designed for 2xCR123 and 1x18650 batteries. All sizes of 18650 will work from 65 mm to 70 mm long with button or flat top.

Measured size and weight standard head:
Length: 165 mm
Diameter: 25 mm to 35 mm
Weight: 203 gram with CR123 and 217 gram with AW18650-26

Measured size and weight turbo head:
Length: 173 mm
Diameter: 25 mm to 41 mm
Weight: 220 gram with CR123 and 234 gram with AW18650-26

The light uses a Cree XM-L T6 led, this is a cool white led. ThruNite has also made a limited run with a neutral white led.

Usual a tailcap with controls need a extra connection to the head, but this tailcap get around this and only has the usual connection to the head. To transfer the tailcap selection is used magnets, the selector moves a magnet and the button pushes it forward. Inside the plastic insert in the body is hidden some magnetic sensors (probably reed relays).

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In the above table I have collected all modes. I have also included off as a mode, because the light uses a small amount of power. All the estimated runtimes are with a 2600mA LiIon battery. The estimated lumen is scale from the specified maximum. The brightness is a relative measurement from a lux meter.
All the values are measured at 3.7 volt. The battery warning was observed in infinite mode at 2.7 volt.

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The first voltage sweep is done in high mode and I have used a couple of minutes for this, at a about 5.6 volt the 1 minute step down can be seen. Some of the brightness drop is all due to temperature.

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To get around the 1 minute step down I also did a fast voltage sweep, here the light hits is maximum current drain of 3 ampere. Using RCR123 cells the maximum current drain will be about 2.2 ampere, just before the cell is empty!

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At infinite the maximum current drain is about 2.7 ampere.


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Some more curves with different settings in infinite mode.

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Runtime again shows that the brightness is depends on battery voltage. On the LiIon track some ticks can be seen from 80 minutes, this is the low battery warning. The light works very well with LiIon cells, reducing the output to a low value and flashing a alarm, before the cell is discharged too much. Using CR123 batteries only gives about 10 minutes at full brightness (Tested with Panasonic cells), they are best used at lower brightness settings!
With two IMR16340 cells the brightness is more stable and it has a decent runtime (35 min), but the light will over discharge them, because the warning is designed for one cell.

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The above two traces shows the first 3 minutes with LiIon and CR123 batteries, the specified drop after one minute can be seen, but it is rather small (Note: These curves are made with my high-speed equipment that samples the brightness more than 1000 times each second in the above curves, i.e. any fast variation in brightness is shown).

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I did also make a curve of infinite high setting, there is no brightness step down.

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The strobe is 10 hz with 50% duty cycle and is using maximal brightness.



[SIZE=+3]Comparison to other Flashlights[/SIZE]

ThruNite Scorpion V2, ThruNite Scorpion V2 with turbo head, Fenix TK21
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Fenix TK35, JetBeam BC40, Crelant 7G3,
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For the full comparison to other lights with graphs and beamshots see here




[SIZE=+3]Notes[/SIZE]

The light was supplied by ThruNite for a review.
 
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calipsoii

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Nice review, thank you!

I placed an order for their neutral v2 Scorpion with Turbo head a few days ago. I haven't been this excited for a small thrower in a long time.

I definitely appreciate the runtime graph comparing the IMR cells to the RCR ones. I know the current drain is high but I was hoping I could use my protected 18650's for long runtime instead of having to buy IMR's. Glad to see it will work with both.
 

HKJ

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I definitely appreciate the runtime graph comparing the IMR cells to the RCR ones. I know the current drain is high but I was hoping I could use my protected 18650's for long runtime instead of having to buy IMR's. Glad to see it will work with both.

I did not do runtime with RCR123, if you by RCR means LiCoO2 cells, maybe I better change the "LiIon" label on that chart (It is supposed to mean LiCoO2 18650 cells, more specifically AW18650-26 cells).


Edit: Label has changed on chart.
 
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rickypanecatyl

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I'm curious about the firefly mode - do you think it would be bright enough to read a book at night in a tent with night adjusted vision?

Also any opionions on how strong the tail cap is? If the light was dropped from 1.5 m on the pavement any guestimates as to whether it would survive?

Thanks! Rick
 

HKJ

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I'm curious about the firefly mode - do you think it would be bright enough to read a book at night in a tent with night adjusted vision?

Easily, but remember that the light has a hotspot, i.e. you will have to move the light around to read a page.


Also any opionions on how strong the tail cap is? If the light was dropped from 1.5 m on the pavement any guestimates as to whether it would survive?

It looks solid, but I am not going to test it. I have passed the question to ThruNite, maybe they have a answer.
 

candle lamp

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Great review and thanks a lot. HKJ!

I can find an black o-ring on the inner side of the battery tube at the tailcap side in my Scorpion V1.
(ie, It is just right behind the plastic insert.)

Did you check the current draw on IMR16340s at tailcap?
 

HKJ

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I can find an black o-ring on the inner side of the battery tube at the tailcap side in my Scorpion V1.
(ie, It is just right behind the plastic insert.)

I will check this later today.


Did you check the current draw on IMR16340s at tailcap?

No, the light needs the tailcap mounted to work and extending it with two wires did not work. Maybe I need to do a few more experiments with this.
You can guess at the current draw: the IMR cells are rated at 550mAh and they last about 0.5 hour, that would give a average current draw of around 1A at 7.4 volt. The actual current draw will change with battery voltage.
 

candle lamp

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You can guess at the current draw: the IMR cells are rated at 550mAh and they last about 0.5 hour, that would give a average current draw of around 1A at 7.4 volt. The actual current draw will change with battery voltage.

Thanks for the reply.
I've noticed 2xRCR123A are not suitable to run because of excessive discharge ratio.
In this regard, I'd like to estimate the discharge ratio when using 2xRCR123A(750mAh), but can't.
Do you have any idea to predict it?
 

HKJ

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Thanks for the reply.
I've noticed 2xRCR123A are not suitable to run because of excessive discharge ratio.
In this regard, I'd like to estimate the discharge ratio when using 2xRCR123A(750mAh), but can't.
Do you have any idea to predict it?

LiCoO2 has about the same voltage is IMR cells (A bit lower at high currents, due to higher Ri), i.e. they will have close to the same current draw. My guess is that the actual current drain will be below 1.5 ampere, even when the batteries are nearly empty (This is for high mode, momentary will be higher).
 

candle lamp

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LiCoO2 has about the same voltage is IMR cells (A bit lower at high currents, due to higher Ri), i.e. they will have close to the same current draw. My guess is that the actual current drain will be below 1.5 ampere, even when the batteries are nearly empty (This is for high mode, momentary will be higher).

1.5A is quite high to RCR123A and almost 2C. So IMR is an alternative.
But "the light will over discharge IMRs, because the warning is designed for one cell" makes surprise me.
Is there any problem on IMR cells when IMRs are over discharged to the very low voltage?

Thanks a lot in advance. HKJ!
 

selfbuilt

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Excellent technical review and write-up HKJ, as usual. :thumbsup:

One question - do you do your runtimes under a cooling fan? I ask because of the apparent difference between our runtimes on 2xCR123A on high. On Titanium Innovation cells (under a cooling fan), I had ~30 mins of relative high power, followed by a slow drop-off. The pattern you show on Panasonic cells looks a lot like what I saw on the earlier Catapults on 4xCR123A (i.e. step down at a certain point, followed by a lower steady state and a rise as the battery nears exhaustion). If you look at my recent Catapult V3 review, you will see a very similar pattern for Catapult V2 SST-50, but not the later V2 XML or V3 XML versions.

I'm guessing, but I would suspect this has to do with a thermal cut-off feature in the circuit (i.e. the cooling fan is enough to prevent it from going off on my Scorpion/Catapult XM-L based lights, but was insufficient on the older SST-50 model, where the batteries still got too hot). I wasn't aware that Thrunite had continued that circuit feature on the Scorpions.

Good luck with your investigation of tailcap current draws. It was certainly beyond my ability to figure out how to measure. If anyone can sort it out, it would be you. :)
 

HKJ

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One question - do you do your runtimes under a cooling fan? I ask because of the apparent difference between our runtimes on 2xCR123A on high. On Titanium Innovation cells (under a cooling fan), I had ~30 mins of relative high power, followed by a slow drop-off.

Yes, I nearly always use a cooling fan. Only time I do without cooling fan is low power modes or because I wish to test a temperature shutdown.
Not only the Cat. shows this type of curve also the Olight M31. I am not sure its is due to a thermo sensor, it might also be due to the battery chemistry at high temperature.


Good luck with your investigation of tailcap current draws. It was certainly beyond my ability to figure out how to measure. If anyone can sort it out, it would be you. :)

If I succeed I will post the result, but the measurement will probably be rather limited in precision (Clamp meter and unspecified battery voltage).
 

HKJ

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I can find an black o-ring on the inner side of the battery tube at the tailcap side in my Scorpion V1.
(ie, It is just right behind the plastic insert.)

You are correct, the V2 also has a o-ring there, I have adjusted the review text.



This light must be using some sort of magic with the tailcap. I can not see more than two connection (Battery and tube), but it does not work if I move the tailcap 4 cm away with extension wires :confused:?
 

selfbuilt

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Yes, I nearly always use a cooling fan. Only time I do without cooling fan is low power modes or because I wish to test a temperature shutdown. Not only the Cat. shows this type of curve also the Olight M31. I am not sure its is due to a thermo sensor, it might also be due to the battery chemistry at high temperature.
Yes, it's true I observed the same on the Olight M31 as well as the Catapult V2 (both SST-50-based). Just a guess, but I suspect those SST-50 lights are harder on the batteries than the more recent XM-L lights.

I have re-tested my V2 sample without a cooling fan, and posted to my review thread, reproduced below:

Scorpion2-HiCR123A-cool.gif


Mine lasted longer (22 mins), but the same effect occurred as you saw. Originally, on those other lights, I presumed it was a circuit feature to step-down output if a certain internal temperature was reached. But I suppose it is possible this may actually be a battery chemistry issue at high temperature. :thinking:

UPDATE: Thrunite informs me that they use a resistor which varies with temperature. So when the temperature is high, the resistor will drive the current lower. As the temp drops in the CR123As (driven less hard), output gradually recovers. This outcome is therefore normal, they say. I'm still not quite clear as to why the drop in output is so sharp, though.
 
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HKJ

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Mine lasted longer (22 mins), but the same effect occurred as you saw. Originally, on those other lights, I presumed it was a circuit feature to step-down output if a certain internal temperature was reached. But I suppose it is possible this may actually be a battery chemistry issue at high temperature. :thinking:

UPDATE: Thrunite informs me that they use a resistor which varies with temperature. So when the temperature is high, the resistor will drive the current lower. This outcome is therefore normal, they say.

Interesting, even without cooling you have better runtime than I have with cooling. Maybe the Titanium batteries are better than Panasonic at high current drain? Do you have the possibility/time to test with Panasonic and does anybody know if EU and US Panasonic CR123 batteries are the same?
 

selfbuilt

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Interesting, even without cooling you have better runtime than I have with cooling. Maybe the Titanium batteries are better than Panasonic at high current drain? Do you have the possibility/time to test with Panasonic and does anybody know if EU and US Panasonic CR123 batteries are the same?
Just so happens I do - I have a couple of made-in-USA Panasonics, bought about a year ago (expiry date code 4-2019). I will try them without cooling and see what happens. Stay tuned ...

EDIT: Wow, just gave it a try, and the light stepped down around 4 mins into the run (on Panasonics, without cooling). It didn't drop quite as low as the Titanium Innovation cells (~95 on my relative output scale, instead of ~70 shown above). I will let this run continue, to see what happens, and then do another run with cooling. That will use up my last Panasonic cells, though.
 
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selfbuilt

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Ok, here are my results on 2xCR123A on max, on Titanium Innovations CR123As and Panasonic made-in-USA CR123As, with and without external cooling:

Scorpion2-HiCR123A-cool2.gif


As you can see, cooling didn't make much of a difference on the Panasonic runs - I got ~5 mins to step down without it, and ~6 mins with it. :ohgeez: The only real difference cooling seems to make is in the rate of the recovery phase.

So it seems the Panasonic cells can't handle the current load and heat up faster than the Titanium Innovations cells. This is turn either triggers some sort of stepdown circuit/resistor, or causes some sort of battery hiccup.

Interesting .... I've just posted a synopsis of the situation in the batteries/electronics forum. Let's see what the experts there think!
 
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HKJ

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Interesting, I checked my cells, on the cells it says EU, but the package says "made in USA", the cells has a 2020 date code.
I wonder if I can make a test to see if it is the batteries or the light. I cannot do it with the Scorpion, but maybe the M31 can be used (But I will hate wasting 3 expensive cells on that test). Doing a run where I log battery voltage, current and brightness would show it. If the battery voltage drops it is due to the battery, if the battery voltage raise it is because the light is throttling down.
 
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