**BEAMSHOTS** Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE vs Xenonics Nighthunter One

So yesterday, finally, a brand new Ushio UXL-75XE lamp arrived at my office. I wanted to test it on my Gen2 (G2-20) MB with use of the bulb adapters made by Parker VH and make a comparison beamshot between this lamp and the official "Ushio" MB lamp.

First of all, let's see the visual difference between the lamps: in the below picture you find all the lamps that you can currently use on your MB:

http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/971/mblamps1.jpg
http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/2724/mblamps2.jpg

1) Older "ARC" lamp. Cylindrical arc tube, bad optical displacement.
2) Newer (current) "Ushio" lamp. Small round arc tube, better optical displacement. Peak Beam changed design from ARC to Ushio in the Gen3 lights, and asked Ushio to custom produce a lamp for them, based on the UXL-75XE.
3) Standard UXL-75XE lamp, with the Parker VH bulb adapters installed.

Notice how the round bulb in the UXL is much bigger than in the "Ushio" MB lamp!!!

Technically speaking, a bigger bulb like that would create even less arc displacement (better). That's why I wanted to test it on the MB and make a comparison test.

BUT:
I installed the UXL on my MB and... it light up once, then I shut it off, and it didn't light up ANYMORE...!!! It only makes a spark in the lamp base but that's it... does not work!!!!
Why???????

I am using, on the "Ushio" MB lamp, a 14,4 V battery pack (LiPo 4s), and it works fine... is it too much for the standard Ushio UXL-75XE lamp which is rated at 12,5 V?

Did I already "brake" the lamp?

Bottom line is: the UXL-75XE on my MB worked ONCE... now it does not. Any thoughts?

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE

Somewhat randomized thoughts and not any conclusions yet. Sort of talking to myself.

Your 4S Lipo will peak at 16.8 Volts, 14.8 is nominal. As long as the MB ballasts' input Voltage range is good up to 16.6 or so, the ballast will work ok.

Regardless of the input Voltage from your battery (again, assuming the ballast will handle 16.6V) then power output from the ballast to the bulb is going to be the same (also assuming that the arc gap, gas fill pressure and gas composition is the same). Ballast output should not change with changing input Voltage assuming the bulb specs are the same.

Is the power handling capability (Voltage range spec and Amperage range spec) of the non-MB Ushio the same as the MB-specific bulb?

"Only makes a spark in the lamp base". (The Anode/large, rear electrode end of the bulb?) Obviously, the bulb is not going to light off unless there is a spark across the gap. The purpose of the small wire (Trigger Wire) around the chamber is to ionize the Xenon during the ignition cycle and then the spark at the electrode ignites the ionized gas. Do you mean you see arcing between the bulbs' original base and the new adapters? Or is it arcing within the bulb chamber but well behind the electrode tip? Or is it arcing between the new adapter and the MBs' original contact? Have you tried to identify the location in a very dark environment (be very careful not to flash yourself if the bulb lights off)

Did you run the non-MB bulb in the momentary 75 Watt mode during the one run?

I have a loaner MB Clone. I used Parkers' adapters and the same non-MB Ushio bulb in this light with no issues and many, many starts.

Did you clean the bulb with hi-percentage alcohol and all the contact areas?

Does the original MB Ushio bulb still work ok?

On first blush, if you see arcing, then the ballast is PROBABLY OK (the ignition circuit, anyway). It seems like you might have a loose/electrically-poor contact issue or the power rating of the non-Ushio bulb is less than the MB-specific bulb and the non-MB bulb may have been damaged. Also, look closely at the metal ribbon connector material between the back end of the electrode and the bulb base for breaks. In you pic, there are wide/large ribbon connectors on MB-specific bulbs 1 & 2 but the connector looks very small on the non-MB bulb. (I realize there is distortion thru the quartz so I cannot really tell much on the bulb #3.) Also, the trigger wire on the MB-specific bulb is connected to the anode base and then runs down to, and wraps around the chamber. I cannot see any such connection on the non-specific bulb? Is there one? (There should be) If so, does it come from the Anode (large electrode) base?

The more I look at the pic, the more it looks like the Anode metal ribbon connector is gone and the small line that appears to be that ribbon connector, is actually the shadow of the Trigger wire?

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE

BVH, I'll answer your questions on your post:

Somewhat randomized thoughts and not any conclusions yet. Sort of talking to myself.

Your 4S Lipo will peak at 16.8 Volts, 14.8 is nominal. As long as the MB ballasts' input Voltage range is good up to 16.6 or so, the ballast will work ok.

Regardless of the input Voltage from your battery (again, assuming the ballast will handle 16.6V) then power output from the ballast to the bulb is going to be the same (also assuming that the arc gap, gas fill pressure and gas composition is the same). Ballast output should not change with changing input Voltage assuming the bulb specs are the same.
This is what I think too

Is the power handling capability (Voltage range spec and Amperage range spec) of the non-MB Ushio the same as the MB-specific bulb?
That I do not know for the MB bulb, I know that the standard UXL-75XE bulb is rated at 12,5V and 4,5A max. But if adapters were made for it, it means that it should work... my guess

"Only makes a spark in the lamp base". (The Anode/rear electrode end of the bulb?) Obviously, the bulb is not going to light off unless there is a spark across the gap. The purpose of the small wire (Trigger Wire) around the chamber is to ionize the Xenon during the ignition cycle and then the spark at the electrode ignites the ionized gas. Do you mean you see arcing between the bulbs' original base and the new adapters? Or is it arcing within the bulb chamber but well behind the electrode tip? Or is it arcing between the new adapter and the MBs' original contact? Have you tried to identify the location in a very dark environment (be very careful not to flash yourself if the bulb lights off)
The spark (very blue) is made between the new adapter and the MBs' original contact


Did you run the non-MB bulb in the momentary 75 Watt mode during the one run?
Gosh now I don't remember

I have a loaner MB Clone. I used Parkers' adapters and the same non-MB Ushio bulb in this light with no issues and many, many starts.

Did you clean the bulb with hi-percentage alcohol and all the contact areas?
Yes, also metal parts, except from the spring assembly on top.

Does the original MB Ushio bulb still work ok?
I don't know as I don't have any other ballast/starter to use to run it...

On first blush, if you see arcing, then the ballast is PROBABLY OK (the ignition circuit, anyway). It seems like you might have a loose/electrically-poor contact issue or the power rating of the non-Ushio bulb is less than the MB-specific bulb and the non-MB bulb may have been damaged. Look closely at the metal ribbon connector material between the back end of the electrode and the bulb base for breaks.
Ballast is OK, as the MB bulb works.
Regarding the Ushio UXL: the bulb seems OK at a first glance... all i can hear when I fire it up is a buzzz but nothing more... no dust inside the arc chamber or anything else...


Today I'll try running it from the 12V DC socket of my car...

Any other thoughts given this new info?

Appreciate very much, thanks!

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE

troller_cpf said:

BVH, I'll answer your questions on your post:

Or is it arcing within the bulb chamber but well behind the electrode tip? Or is it arcing between the new adapter and the MBs' original contact? Have you tried to identify the location in a very dark environment (be very careful not to flash yourself if the bulb lights off)
The spark (very blue) is made between the new adapter and the MBs' original contact

Does the original MB Ushio bulb still work ok?
I don't know as I don't have any other ballast/starter to use to run it...

On first blush, if you see arcing, then the ballast is PROBABLY OK (the ignition circuit, anyway). It seems like you might have a loose/electrically-poor contact issue or the power rating of the non-Ushio bulb is less than the MB-specific bulb and the non-MB bulb may have been damaged. Look closely at the metal ribbon connector material between the back end of the electrode and the bulb base for breaks.
Ballast is OK, as the MB bulb works.
Regarding the Ushio UXL: the bulb seems OK at a first glance... all i can hear when I fire it up is a buzzz but nothing more... no dust inside the arc chamber or anything else...

Today I'll try running it from the 12V DC socket of my car...

Any other thoughts given this new info?

Appreciate very much, thanks!

Click to expand...

Am I understanding your answer above that the arcing you see is between the Parker adapter and the MB contact? If so, that is your problem. Starting Voltage is limited and designed to just jump a certain arc gap length. If you introduce other "gaps" (where the arcing you are seeing is taking place) they are cumulative and the ballast may not produce enough KV to jump the combined gaps. Is the non-MB bulb very tight in the adapter? It should be - mine was.

I added some possibilities after you replied so look at those - pertaining to the trigger wire and metal ribbon material. Get a magnifying glass and look very closely. If the metal ribbon connector is burned up/gone, then the high voltage will look for the next easiest place to jump and that could be in the adapter contact area.

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE

Thanks again!
1) What do you mean by "metal ribbon" ? Can you please show me it in a picture?
2) Themetal small wire (Trigger Wire) around the chamber on the UXL-75XE is NOT connected to the cathode or anode metal end... is just one wrap over the bulb... is it supposed to be that way or should it be connected to one end of the lamp like in the MB "Ushio" bulb? See picture...

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE

In your pic of the bulbs sitting vertical - Look at bulbs 1 & 2. In fact, your black digit "1" and black digit "2" sit right over the ribbon. The Anode and Cathode electrodes are a solid and round piece of special metal with tapered tips at the gap. After these "round rods" leave the arc chamber, they are connected out to the lamp bases with a thinner and flatter piece of metal that the quartz seals around. This is the metal ribbon. If the bulb was driven with current to a point well beyond its' capability to handle, or it was just defective, it would most likely burn out a small piece of the ribbon (sort of how an automotive fuse might burn out) and you'd see some type of gap in it.

Well, with the trigger wire, I am not 100% sure. I have seen working bulbs built both ways. My only thought is that if the factory MB bulb Trigger is connected to the base, then so should the trigger wire on the bulb you're trying to replace it with. I would think that whether the TW does or does not connect, would be a factor/requirement of the electronics pkg, not the bulb but that is a guess on my part. (Do you see any evidence that the trigger wire was once connected to the base and that it might have partially burned up?)

But it sure sounds like your problem is back with the Parker adapter-to-MB contact if the arcing is taking place back there. You didn't mention how tight that connection is and the tightness of the bulb base-to-Parker adapter is?

My clone anode connection/metal contact to the bulb is a radial series of about 8 or so bronze or brass'ish looking fingers. Does the genuine MB have the same system?

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE

The adapter is a bit tiny bigger than the standard lamp, and so it needsa to be forced a bit inside the MB socket.
But surely it becomes well inserted!

The MB socket is made of a center "hole" and a outer metal skirt. The current goes through the center or the outer skirt?

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE

Without seeing it, chances are that the electrical connection is designed to go thru the outer skirt. How does the skirt get its' electrical connection? A separate wire or is it somehow connected to the "center hole" metal piece? The hole is primarily for alignment. So the skirt is more or less a solid ring into which the bulb base (parker adapter) goes into with some good, solid interference fit? (Mine also fit a bit tighter than the original bulb) Make sure, what ever you have to do, that all of those connections are very clean and very tight. You didn't mention the tightness of the Ushio bulb-to-Parker adapter? High Voltage makes this an imperative requirement.

EDIT: I just looked at my Ushio and although it's a bit difficult to make out when installed, I do not see any anode connection of the trigger.

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE

I found the solution! It is not a full-time solution, it is quite "strange" as solution, also because I still didn't find the problem.

The lamp works BUT it turned out that it ONLY works (light up) when I push it hard in the DEEPEST position, as to get the maximum flood beam. I need to press it hard down and manually "engage" the electonic zoom mechanism.
Once the lamp is deep down (the bulb is almost touching the reflector opening hole), the light turns on. Then I can move the zoom up&down as I wish, BUT, I NEED TO BRING IT BACK to full "down position" before turning it off and turning it on again!!!!

If I leave the bulb half-way, it will not start again!!

This surely has something to do with the Parker adaptor, but still I can't figure out how...

Anyway:
Now the light works, and tomorrow evening I'll be going to take a beamshot to compare it to the standard MB lamp, to see if the Ushio UXL-75XE is any better than the other...

stay tuned for beamshots, coming up soon!!

PS: Thank you BVH for info and help!

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE

Glad you got it going to prove the bulb and ballast are ok. Just thinking out loud...What happens when the bulb/adapter ***'y is retracted. 1. The adapter front spring pressure is reduced. More later. Think I will open up the clone again to see what else is going on with the movement you need to do for startup.

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE

95% sure I got it figured out. Keep in mind that the following comparisons are between the old straight tubular lamp and the standard, non-MB lamp with the large arc chamber. Also, I do not know if the configuration of your MB is the same as my clone in the area of where the bulb fits into its' seat and where your aluminum reflector support casting - those two pieces, come together.

Possible factor 1. Look at the original bulb Anode base length (not including the small pin) Look at the overall length of the Ushio bulb Anode base when fit inside the Parker adapter. Its about .025" to .030" longer which means that the Anode metal base/Parker assembly ends up closer to the aluminum reflector support housing where it funnels down in size right around where the bulb fits into its' hole. This is a potential grounding spot.

Factor 2. I took a diameter measurement of the old original bulb Anode base and then the Ushio fit inside the Parker adapter. It measures about .006" larger, which means each side is about .003" closer to that same part of the reflector housing support.

Are these enough to shorten the distance to this potential grounding spot and create a spark jump to ground? I'm not 100% sure but it looks very suspect when you factor in that when you move the focus mechanism all the way back, the metal bulb base/Parker adapter moves further away from the possible grounding spot.

My light has no issues starting in any focus position but again, I don't know if a Maxabeam is constructed like clone is in this area of the light.

A different subject: You're aware that there are outside accessible bulb X and Y positioning adjustments?

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE

Troller, Very sorry to hear you're having problems with your light. Please keep me posted as I will do everything I can to make it right if it proves to be an adapter problem. I have had no problems with my Gen. 2 with the adapters and and the UXL 75XE bulb. On my original straight wall bulb without the adapters, the thin igniter wire, (trigger wire), was broken as such it would only ignite occasionally. You might get lucky and it would ignite twice in a row or you could try it 20 times and it wouldn't ignite.

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE

Bob, any others report any problems? I'd guess you have quite a few out there and I've not heard of any other issues?

Any way you could measure the adapter-to-aluminum casting distance on your MB for comparison?

Troller, here's another thought. When I took my clone apart today, i noticed the X&Y position adjustments of the back of the bulb put the Anode base much closer to the aluminum casting on one side versus all other sides - so-to-speak. Do you think your adjustment could be out of whack creating an easy arcing distance? Mine could be out by as much as 1/8" + a bit more. The mounting hole for the lamp should end up pretty much centered within the back hole of the reflector.

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE

I don't know if I got "out of range" with the X&Y adjustments. What I usually do with every lamp I use is to center it by hand without the lens installed, get it as perfect as possible, and then close all and adjust it with the X&Y screws...

I was thinking also about the issue of the Anode base dimension... and other two thoughts came to my mind:
1) What if I DO NOT use the spring+sleeve on top of the lamp, the one that goes into the center hole of the lens?? Is that essential for the light to work? I'd say NO, as the return wire makes contact before the spring...
2) What if I unscrew the reflector assembly from the Electronic ECU? Could I find something useful down there? Example: I see closely the socket and see what I can do...

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE

I have not had any negative reports from any other buyers. I will try the adapters on my second maxabeam tonite and see if there is any problem there. It sure seems odd but hopefully we can resolve this issue.

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE

troller_cpf said:

1) What if I DO NOT use the spring+sleeve on top of the lamp, the one that goes into the center hole of the lens?? Is that essential for the light to work? I'd say NO, as the return wire makes contact before the spring...



2) What if I unscrew the reflector assembly from the Electronic ECU? Could I find something useful down there? Example: I see closely the socket and see what I can do...

Click to expand...

The lamp would physically light up but it definitely needs support from the front support pieces to stay focused and not have the bulb flop around.

This is what I did yesterday and if my clone is anything like the MB, there is nothing to be gained by doing this.

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE

I just tried the Ushio bulb with the adapters in my second Maxa Beam and it seemed to work fine. No problem igniting and I ran it all the in and out from spot to flood. The only thing I did notice was the light only stayed on high power mode if I hold the switch over. I thought it was supposed to stay on high for about 30 seconds or so? I'm pretty sure my other one does this. Maybe it's a function of the circuit board version?

BVH, What do you want me to try and measure? I don't know what you mean by the aluminum casting?

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE

Parker VH said:

The only thing I did notice was the light only stayed on high power mode if I hold the switch over. I thought it was supposed to stay on high for about 30 seconds or so? I'm pretty sure my other one does this. Maybe it's a function of the circuit board version?

Click to expand...

This is normal, all Maxa Beam does that.

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE

Parker VH said:

BVH, What do you want me to try and measure? I don't know what you mean by the aluminum casting?

Click to expand...

Troller, can you take out your bulb and do a macro/close-up photo of the bulb hole and surrounding area?

Having a clone, I have no idea what the real MB looks like in this area and it would be good to know if everything I've speculated on has any relevance. If they are different, then I'm wasting everyone's time.

Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE vs Nighthunter One - BEAMSHOTS ADDED!

To BVH: Please don't make me open once again the lamp... sigh!!

To Parker VH: any chance I can ask you to ship me, once you have the new batch of adapters, only one more of the LOWER piece... the one that goes into the MB socket?


Anyway I managed to get it "going" (roughly), so I can post some beamshots!

- Target is a telecom antenna 1,1 km far away (3600 ft)
- Camera is set on ISO 200, F2.8, 1" exposure


The three lights compared are:
- Maxabeam, Gen2 (G2-15) with Gen3 "Ushio" brand lamp (MB proprietary design).
- Maxabeam, Gen2 (G2-15) with Ushio UXL-75XE lamp and Parker VH adapter
- Xenonics Nighthunter One. This light also uses the Ushio UXL-75XE as standard


First up, Control Shot


Then we have Gen2 MB with Gen3 lamp

Then we have Gen2 MB with standard Ushio UXL-75XE bulb

Finally, just for reference, we have Xenonics NightHunter One




Same pics, but Zoomed this time to the Antenna only:

Control


MB Gen2 with Gen3 lamp


MB Gen2 with Ushio UXL-75XE


Xenonics NH1




Some comments on above pictures:

• Xenonics NH1 uses, as a standard lamp, the Ushio UXL-75XE lamp, as it is. They just "insert" it in a lamp base and sell the whole piece, already factory aligned.
• The MB with the Ushio UXL-75XE performed BETTER than with the original Peak Beam "Ushio" lamp. We can see from the pictures and I can also tell you by other tests I made (visually) without taking pictures.
• So, in the MaxaBeam, the UXL-75XE standard lamp is BETTER than the CUSTOM one Peak Beam asked Ushio to make!!
  
• In any case, the Xenonics NH1, even if it uses the UXL-75XE lamp, has a significantly lower performance than ANY Maxabeam (ALSO lower than the older MB with the older "ARC" tubolar lamp!). This is due most probably to the electronic circuit, that does not go over 65W of power and the reflector. I need to justify the NH1 anyway, because:
  • The lamp on the NH1 was pretty old, maybe the arc gap became a bit bigger
  • The NH1 features a so-damn-complicated-and-stupid lamp alignment system that I NEVER made it to perfectly align the ceter spot.. so it is out of alignment
• But still, the NH1 is always defeated by the Maxabeam, but it is still veeeery cool also as design...
  
• So now I ask myself (and I would like to ask Deb&Grant from Peak Beam: Peak Beam made a "mistake" once in choosing ARC brand over Ushio. Then they swapped to Ushio brand. When they swapped to Ushio, Ushio was already producing the UXL-75XE lamp. Why did they asked Ushio to custom make for them a lamp, which is different from the standard? Couldn't they just ask them to produce the metal extensions on a standard UXL lamp? ....

anyway... cheers!