ZebraLight H600(w) XM-L 750 Lm

[tony613]

Thought I remember some folks having trouble with the highest power setting drawing so much as to trip the protection on some cells?

That could be but for what it's worth, I'm using EagleTac 3100 mAh protected cells in the H600W. I've used the combination on turbo beyond the point that the step down kicked in (the 'lower' high, not the battery low voltage protection circuit), and I've used the light on a combination of medium and high for 30-40 continuous minutes. I can report that with this cell the protection circuitry has not been tripped. Keep in mind this battery is a Panasonic and the whole battery package wrapping the cell seems to be very good quality. Other cells no doubt will vary.

[varuscelli]

Hmmmm.

OK, talk of H600f aside (one that doesn't seem to show up on the ZebraLight Future Products list yet), I was under the rough impression that the H602 (and H602w) was the projected flood lamp for their 18650 headlamps (the H602/H602w actually being listed on the Future Products list).

Perhaps the H600f is seen as an "easier to implement" version that just hasn't been placed on the Future Products listing yet.

I personally don't have a need for a floody 18650 based headlamp. The AA models I have suit my needs for that just fine. For biking though, I would like an 18650 based headlamp, but prefer throw for helmet mounting. I'm still suspicious that an H600w would be too floody for that, so have been considering a Spark ST6-460nw instead.

B0wz3r, I feel kind of strange even saying this, but your reply seems to have almost nothing to do with the statements you quoted from me, so I'm a bit confused about the connection you're seeing between what I wrote and what you wrote. I dunno, maybe you meant to quote someone else's post. I mean, I can see what you wrote as a set of standalone statements, but not a response to my musings about the H600f versus H602. It seems to me that the the H600f will just be floody (based on diffusion) while the H602 will be a true flood (not relying on diffusion)

But to make a point about what you wrote about biking, I can't think of ANY true flood headlamp (or even pseudo-flood based on diffusion -- "floody" as ZebraLight labels them) that would be useful for biking, unless bike speed was kept to an extremely slow pace...so I think that none of the yet-to-be-released ZebraLight 18650 flood lamps (or "floody" lamps) would be practical as bike lights.

If anyone were considering the H600 versus H600w (neither of which are floods nor floody based on the way ZebraLight uses the terminology), as a helmet light for biking, I'd choose the H600 over the H600w just by virtue of having more output on the higher levels (tint aside). But I'd recommend one of those only if the user were comfortable with using the High level as opposed to Turbo for output. In my opinion, any light/headlamp that has a timed drop down in output from Turbo to High after only a few minutes is too much of a hassle as a bike-related light, UNLESS the High mode is adequate to meet the needs of the rider. Yeah, you can always run it in Turbo, wait for it to drop to High, then click it back to Turbo -- but what a pain to keep having to do that every few minutes while riding. But if you can get by on the High mode, you can get quite a long run time from the H600/H600w, so for some folks it might be practical.

[B0wz3r]

Sorry, it's just me being scatterbrained. Never mind!

[Barbrady]
Move along people! Nothing to see here!
[/Barbrady]

B0wz3r, I feel kind of strange even saying this, but your reply seems to have almost nothing to do with the statements you quoted from me, so I'm a bit confused about the connection you're seeing between what I wrote and what you wrote. I dunno, maybe you meant to quote someone else's post. I mean, I can see what you wrote as a set of standalone statements, but not a response to my musings about the H600f versus H602. It seems to me that the the H600f will just be floody (based on diffusion) while the H602 will be a true flood (not relying on diffusion)

But to make a point about what you wrote about biking, I can't think of ANY true flood headlamp (or even pseudo-flood based on diffusion -- "floody" as ZebraLight labels them) that would be useful for biking, unless bike speed was kept to an extremely slow pace...so I think that none of the yet-to-be-released ZebraLight 18650 flood lamps (or "floody" lamps) would be practical as bike lights.

If anyone were considering the H600 versus H600w (neither of which are floods nor floody based on the way ZebraLight uses the terminology), as a helmet light for biking, I'd choose the H600 over the H600w just by virtue of having more output on the higher levels (tint aside). But I'd recommend one of those only if the user were comfortable with using the High level as opposed to Turbo for output. In my opinion, any light/headlamp that has a timed drop down in output from Turbo to High after only a few minutes is too much of a hassle as a bike-related light, UNLESS the High mode is adequate to meet the needs of the rider. Yeah, you can always run it in Turbo, wait for it to drop to High, then click it back to Turbo -- but what a pain to keep having to do that every few minutes while riding. But if you can get by on the High mode, you can get quite a long run time from the H600/H600w, so for some folks it might be practical.

[varuscelli]

Sorry, it's just me being scatterbrained. Never mind!

Yeah, sorry. I was just scratching my head a little bit for the connection. No biggie.

[B0wz3r]

Yeah, sorry. I was just scratching my head a little bit for the connection. No biggie.

Just free associating really... got stuck in a "Freud moment"! LOL!

[Changchung]

I was thinking in wait for the flood version, but another member toll me that is I buy the H600 I can install some scotch film to the glass and make it flood... Know my concern is the tint... How warn or neutral is the W version??? Can some one post some white wall shoots to make clear my final decision???

[evgeniy]

>>" Can some one post some white wall shoots to make clear my final decision???"

On _any_ photo you will see result of processing, and white tint depends from "white balance" settings.
With WB set to "daylight" (6500K) result from H600 will be white , from H600w - white-yellow.
With WB set to 4000-4500K result from H600w will be white , from H600 - white-green-blue.

For example, SC51 - with WB="daylight" http://www.terrasvet.com.ua/uploads/...hots/sc51f.jpg
SC51w - http://www.terrasvet.com.ua/uploads/...ots/sc51fw.jpg

But with corrected WB you will see clear white on photo from "W" LEDs.

[Changchung]

>>" Can some one post some white wall shoots to make clear my final decision???"

On _any_ photo you will see result of processing, and white tint depends from "white balance" settings.
With WB set to "daylight" (6500K) result from H600 will be white , from H600w - white-yellow.
With WB set to 4000-4500K result from H600w will be white , from H600 - white-green-blue.

For example, SC51 - with WB="daylight" http://www.terrasvet.com.ua/uploads/...hots/sc51f.jpg
SC51w - http://www.terrasvet.com.ua/uploads/...ots/sc51fw.jpg

But with corrected WB you will see clear white on photo from "W" LEDs.

Thanks, but I think that this warm tint is too warm for me, I think that a perfect tint for me will be a neutral, maybe something close to 5300K

[Changchung]

Sorry, double post...

[evgeniy]

Thanks, but I think that this warm tint is too warm for me, I think that a perfect tint for me will be a neutral, maybe something close to 5300K

Unfortunately, Zebralight produce lights only with ~~6300 and ~~4200K LEDs.
Some users on CPF modify Spark's and install any requested LED to ST5/ST6/SD6. May be, you need this service.
======
I also love ~~5000 - 5500K light , but current models on Zebra and Fenix not use this tint.

[Changchung]

Unfortunately, Zebralight produce lights only with ~~6300 and ~~4200K LEDs.
Some users on CPF modify Spark's and install any requested LED to ST5/ST6/SD6. May be, you need this service.
======
I also love ~~5000 - 5500K light , but current models on Zebra and Fenix not use this tint.

I have a SD6 and a neutral xm-l led, but the pcb is to big and I dont want to damage it trying to take the led off to the original pcb...


SFMI4UT

[Ian2381]

I Just received my H600w today and I'm really happy with it. It seems this light could fit any protected 18650 batts as even my XTAR 18700 fits(Bought some AWs for this light).
Can't wait to use it on my next Climb.

[my_crib_too]

I used my ZebraLight H600 for the first time last night walking my dog in a very dark area. I like the light but it's more floody than I thought it would be. Great construction and the dog loves the extra light.

bruce...

[surferraven]

I'm trying to decide if I should get the h600w or the Spark ST-6 460NW. I've searched high and low and can't find any beam shots of the h600w. I'd like to see how it looks compared to the Spark. Is it more floody with less throw? I like how you can change the Spark to flood with the diffuser lens. I suppose I could use some film on the h600 if needed. I'd just like to see how it looks out of the box. Does anyone who has one have an outdoor shot of the beam?

[Ian2381]

I Just received my H600w today and I'm really happy with it. It seems this light could fit any protected 18650 batts as even my XTAR 18700 fits(Bought some AWs for this light).
Can't wait to use it on my next Climb.

I would just like to correct my post, Some of my very thick 18650 batteries won't fit, it just happen some of my XTAR 18700 2600mah fits(Red lettering) and some doesn't(violet lettering).
It doesn't matter though as Im going to use my AWs.

[spelunkik]

I took your guys' suggestion and went through the website to request a replacement after describing what I assumed was obviously a defective light. In an interesting twist to this frustrating saga, I received a reply this morning:

"You have to use high quality batteries such as the Panasonic NCR18650 or batteries with that cell in it (e.g. AW2900)."

Okay, there are a few alarms going off for me right now. First, if the light is not compatible with cells other than "high quality batteries," why is this not stated on the website? What Zebralight has just told me is that I've wasted money on two 18650s that do not work with the light, an expense they could have easily prevented. Second, Zebralight gives me no clear definition of what a "high quality battery" is. If I buy a Redilast 2600 or something other than an AW2900 and my H600w does not work, Zebralight can just say I am still not using a "high quality battery." Third, if my current cells are the issue and not the light itself, why is it that I had perfect performance for a significant period of time using both cells, then randomly my light does not work properly and exhibits the same problem using either cell?

I am going to take a deep breath on this one and buy a "high quality cell." I am not going to buy anything other than a NCR18650 or AW2900 because if the light will still misbehave than Zebralight can say it is my fault. As a matter of fact, I am going to buy a NCR18650 that way if the light does not work correctly Zebralight can't blame it on a faulty protection circuit within the 18650 I'm using.

To be honest, I have been looking for a legitimate reason to spend money on a high performance cell. I guess now I have one. Also, I must admit if I were Zebralight I'd be telling a customer like myself the same thing: eliminate all other potential points of failure before replacing a costly product. I sure hope this solves my problem, but I have my doubts at the moment...

I'll keep you guys informed. Hopefully it's a battery issue. If it is, I hope everyone can learn from my experience and know that only certain cells are compatible with the H600w so that they don't waste money on inappropriate cells either.

Well, the Panasonic NCR18650a I ordered finally arrived on Monday of last week. I popped it into my headlamp, and it was no surprise that my light's issues were still present.

Some additional symptoms I discovered while waiting for the NCR battery: the light made a high-pitched noise on turbo that continued to get higher in pitch (it sounded like it was going to blow up), the turbo mode would not shut off after 3 minutes, and the light turned off with no warning once the battery became drained enough. I discovered this last one while deep in a cave... not cool at all.

It took me a couple of tries through Zebralight's website to get an RMA #, but I finally did and sent it out last Saturday. I'm looking forward to a properly functioning light.

It is weird that my light worked fine for over a week, then randomly acquired problems. Looking at the internal design, I wonder what would happen if you put a too-long battery in the H600 and really tried to fully tighten the tailcap? The ciruit board doesn't really look reinforced, and I can't help but think it's possible that you could crush that board if you really tried. I am convinced this is not what happened in my case since I always used the same battery, but I wonder just the same...

[B0wz3r]

Well, the Panasonic NCR18650a I ordered finally arrived on Monday of last week. I popped it into my headlamp, and it was no surprise that my light's issues were still present.

Some additional symptoms I discovered while waiting for the NCR battery: the light made a high-pitched noise on turbo that continued to get higher in pitch (it sounded like it was going to blow up), the turbo mode would not shut off after 3 minutes, and the light turned off with no warning once the battery became drained enough. I discovered this last one while deep in a cave... not cool at all.

It took me a couple of tries through Zebralight's website to get an RMA #, but I finally did and sent it out last Saturday. I'm looking forward to a properly functioning light.

It is weird that my light worked fine for over a week, then randomly acquired problems. Looking at the internal design, I wonder what would happen if you put a too-long battery in the H600 and really tried to fully tighten the tailcap? The ciruit board doesn't really look reinforced, and I can't help but think it's possible that you could crush that board if you really tried. I am convinced this is not what happened in my case since I always used the same battery, but I wonder just the same...

Hard to say. I've had some unusual behavior from my SC60w. When I first got it, it wouldn't work with any of my flat top AW cells, so I bought some of those little rare earth magnet spacers to make a button on the positive pole. Worked fine for a few months and then one day I go to turn it on and the UI has gone all wonky on me. Wouldn't properly cycle through the modes with press and hold, wouldn't correctly switch sub-levels with a double click, etc. As a hunch, I took the magnet spacer out and put the batter back in. It now works fine with a flat top cell. I have no idea why it didn't before or what changed, or why the magnet didn't affect it before but now does. Fortunately the light still works fine for me.

[OpenTrackRacer]

Just pulled the trigger on a H600 from IlluminationGear. I figured for mine exploring, the extra lumens would be better than the warmer color. Besides, all my other lights are cool white already so they'll all more or less match for light painting.

Thanks for all the comments in this thread, they were very useful!

[spelunkik]

Hard to say. I've had some unusual behavior from my SC60w. When I first got it, it wouldn't work with any of my flat top AW cells, so I bought some of those little rare earth magnet spacers to make a button on the positive pole. Worked fine for a few months and then one day I go to turn it on and the UI has gone all wonky on me. Wouldn't properly cycle through the modes with press and hold, wouldn't correctly switch sub-levels with a double click, etc. As a hunch, I took the magnet spacer out and put the batter back in. It now works fine with a flat top cell. I have no idea why it didn't before or what changed, or why the magnet didn't affect it before but now does. Fortunately the light still works fine for me.

Haha, that sounds as "wonky" as mine was. Glad to hear the problem corrected itself, albeit in a mysterious fashion. "Them crazy electronics... a million durn things ta go wrong, and no one knows how to fix 'em!!"

Just pulled the trigger on a H600 from IlluminationGear. I figured for mine exploring, the extra lumens would be better than the warmer color. Besides, all my other lights are cool white already so they'll all more or less match for light painting.

Thanks for all the comments in this thread, they were very useful!

OpenTrackRacer, I have been caving with cool whites for years. The cool tint never bothered me until I started caving with those who had neutral tint lights. It was frustrating to see their lights render up-close objects so beautifully, and then for me to look at the same thing as if I were looking through a boring, blue filter. Still, it didn't bother me much, most of the time. However, when I finally decided to pull my own trigger on a H600, I went for the neutral version because I didn't want to be jealous of another caver's tint anymore. Most of my motivation behind getting an H600 was to make other cavers jealous, and it simply wouldn't do to still have the issue of being jealous of neutral tint lights. I'm very happy I chose neutral, because now everything seems more realistic... less hostile even. I find myself enjoying the underground views more. Also, you wouldn't believe the psychological difference it makes for me when I'm underground, especially in particularly wet/cold environments. Inhospitable is now somehow less inhospitable. Really, really cold is now just really cold. Of course, it's quite possible I'm just crazy. Anyway, yes, a cool white will reach a little farther than a neutral, but keep in mind that the H600 isn't much of a thrower anyway. I can see far, but... I always wish I could see farther. That's an H600 issue though, not a CCT issue. I would like to see in person the difference between an H600 and H600w underground, but I'm almost certain I'd still prefer the H600w. There, that's my two cents for the day...

[OpenTrackRacer]

Yeah, I may end up regretting my choice but I'm so used to cool while LED lights at this point that I don't think it'll matter. All my lights (TrustFire H3, SSC P7, TR-J12, custom headlamps and backup lights) are cool white and I'm an ace at working out the proper while balance for pictures by now. I wouldn't even have gotten the H600 except my neck and shoulder has been bothering me. My standard helmet rig has proven to be too heavy lately so I've been forced to use my backup which has a H3 and a generic 75 lumen AA light. The H3 is great but the beam is too much of a flood for seeing any distance at all. The H600 should do the trick for both and I always have the handheld photon hoses for the real distance stuff.Taking underground this weekend (along with the TR-J12) for the first time so we'll see!

OpenTrackRacer, I have been caving with cool whites for years. The cool tint never bothered me until I started caving with those who had neutral tint lights. It was frustrating to see their lights render up-close objects so beautifully, and then for me to look at the same thing as if I were looking through a boring, blue filter. Still, it didn't bother me much, most of the time. However, when I finally decided to pull my own trigger on a H600, I went for the neutral version because I didn't want to be jealous of another caver's tint anymore. Most of my motivation behind getting an H600 was to make other cavers jealous, and it simply wouldn't do to still have the issue of being jealous of neutral tint lights. I'm very happy I chose neutral, because now everything seems more realistic... less hostile even. I find myself enjoying the underground views more. Also, you wouldn't believe the psychological difference it makes for me when I'm underground, especially in particularly wet/cold environments. Inhospitable is now somehow less inhospitable. Really, really cold is now just really cold. Of course, it's quite possible I'm just crazy. Anyway, yes, a cool white will reach a little farther than a neutral, but keep in mind that the H600 isn't much of a thrower anyway. I can see far, but... I always wish I could see farther. That's an H600 issue though, not a CCT issue. I would like to see in person the difference between an H600 and H600w underground, but I'm almost certain I'd still prefer the H600w. There, that's my two cents for the day...

[B0wz3r]

Last summer, when I was caving up at Lava Beds with my son, we went on a guided explore through one of the tubes there. The NFS ranger who lead it had one of those big and bulky traditional cavers headlamps on her helmet. I think it was one of those carbon ones, but I'm not sure. I had my Spark ST5-190nw on my helmet, and my H51w as backup in my pack. She was amazed at how bright it was for its size at first, and didn't realize it was an LED because of its tint. When I told her what it was, she got a little snobby about it not being an incan though... Although it was only my first time for any real caving, I already knew more about lights than she did. I guess it's like any other activity though, were you've got "purists" who insist on traditional equipment and look down their noses at anything that isn't like what they approve of, and the iconoclasts who don't give a smurf about such things... I guess that puts me in the latter of the two groups!

[evgeniy]

Hi

I received my H600w and checked color temp. of installed xm-l by my colorimeter Spyder2pro.few measurements, from 4030 to 4220K.
Result : 4100 +-100K.
Very good result for declared 4200K !

[TEEJ]

The warmer version does render colors better....even if the lumens are lower, the detail rendering is better. I use lights for forensic investigations, so the tints that provide the best details are the ones I go with. When I do disaster response, depending on the function, either tint can work, but if you are in a triage situation for example, and people need to judge wounds, etc...there is a clear preference for more natural lighting.

[jk42]

Just got my H600w. Very impressive. And now I'm waiting for a SC600w...

Pity there's no clip included, had to roll my own. Here's my take, which should look very bad to Zebralight's eyes...
Maybe they'll come up with an official one after seeing THIS.



Donor: Quark 123² Turbo "X", where it was absolutely useless.
Grips the H600 very tightly, but does not provide quite as much spring force as on a Quark.
The light can be attached to the normal head band without removing the clip.
I find the setup very useful (and pretty enough).

--
jk

[Changchung]

I'm trying to decide if I should get the h600w or the Spark ST-6 460NW. I've searched high and low and can't find any beam shots of the h600w. I'd like to see how it looks compared to the Spark. Is it more floody with less throw? I like how you can change the Spark to flood with the diffuser lens. I suppose I could use some film on the h600 if needed. I'd just like to see how it looks out of the box. Does anyone who has one have an outdoor shot of the beam?

In cpfmarketplace, Craig, from Illumination Supply post a compare pics of the two models, I buy the W version, is not to warn for my taste...


SFMI4UT

[v0idware.prohibited]

Hmmmm.

OK, talk of H600f aside (one that doesn't seem to show up on the ZebraLight Future Products list yet), I was under the rough impression that the H602 (and H602w) was the projected flood lamp for their 18650 headlamps (the H602/H602w actually being listed on the Future Products list).

Perhaps the H600f is seen as an "easier to implement" version that just hasn't been placed on the Future Products listing yet.

I think the future products list isn't all that reliable.

[witness]

I'm a newb looking for a good wilderness headlamp and stumbled on this. Just for laffs I ordered the H600. Can anyone tell me the best battery (brand) and charger to get for this to get the longest run time?

[Changchung]

I'm a newb looking for a good wilderness headlamp and stumbled on this. Just for laffs I ordered the H600. Can anyone tell me the best battery (brand) and charger to get for this to get the longest run time?

Hi, welcome to the Zebra adiction... I just buy 4 panasonic 3100 protected, the best ones tested by HKJ are from intl-outdoor 3100 panasonic with pcb protection. I just buy as well a i4 V2 charger, this is for sale in 25$ in the cpf market place. I dont know if this one is the best, but is a new model.


SFMI4UT

[B0wz3r]

I'm a newb looking for a good wilderness headlamp and stumbled on this. Just for laffs I ordered the H600. Can anyone tell me the best battery (brand) and charger to get for this to get the longest run time?

You can't go wrong with anything from AW, RediLast, or Kallie's Kustoms. All great cells. I suggest you get the Pila li-ion charger for your 18650's. Best consumer level li-ion charger on the market right now.

[127.0.0.1]

h600w as bike light ?

I race CX and MTB and have been using the h600w as backup when I go out with no lights and end
up in the dark 'cuz I am out longer than expected. anyhow, bombing trails in the big ring the h600w is
plenty of light, better than a NiteRider trinewt. it has enough throw for hammering above lactate threshold
in the woods believe me

and it does not ever bounce off angle, the COG is neutral... it stays put wherever you aim it