PALIGHT BG-QS88

Anyone tried this light?

Looks pretty good on specs.
8mm thick lens,
2 18650 or 26650 Li Ion cells
XR-E LED but I am guessing a XP-G would be a easy swap while a XM-L and 3 amp driver may be a bit more challenging but offer up to 2.5 hours run time at full power.

looks like a form factor I'd like, but I could only find it priced at $60+ from my quick google search.

you have a link to a cheaper deal?

I'm about to to order a Piranha/Dorcy 220... wondering why this one is more expensive?

Different product and so different pricing.

Unsure what the Piranha/Dorcy 220 light is but I am willing to pay a little extra for a light that takes 2 26650 cells.

I have seen it as cheap as $39.95us but thats a 10+ price + shipping.

In the end I paid $76us inc shipping +2 26650 cells and charger.

where do you source them ? fleebay

thanks

Na, I got it from a Chinese site.

Anyway it turned up over the weekend.
First impressions its that its a pretty well built light but heavy as hell. ( 530grams)
Size is same length as a W200 at about 200mm but slightly wider at the head at 47mm
Reflector seems to be slightly smaller than MR11 at 34mm
LED is XR-E cool white.
Driver is 3 mode. High, low and strobe.
Batteries are either 18650 or 26650 Li Ion. I got a package with 26650's spacers for 18650's, charger and foam filled case to hold it all.

All in all a nice package to suit any diver wanting a XR-E powered dive light capable of "up to" 8 hours run time. It just so happens that thats not me so I threw in a XM-L, KD driver and Ahorthon aspheric with custom made heat sink. With some modification to the original reflector I may be able to swap between it and the aspheric.

How are they compared to a W200? Still in need of a backup light and I'm wondering which one would be the better choice to mod...

Much heavier, a little wider, similar beam but longer run time due to use of Li Ion cells ( up to 4000mah 26650's)

As far as modifying goes they are easier.

Personally I prefer using the W200's that I have modified.

Well, I would use AW 2900 18650 in the W200.
And why do you prefer the W200's?

Mainly due to the weight and size issue.

Hey Pack,

Could you tell us If the palight has the led module (led+heatsink+driver) glued into place?
If so, how did you loosen the thing? just nose plyers and a hard twist? Or is heating needed?

Thanks for the info.

I just used needle nose plyers. ( from memory).

Hi Guys

I have one of these and I was very impressed until the back plate with the spring of the LED came unstuck. I now need a replacement LED and was wondering where is the best place to get one (probably best with the heatsing as I can't seem to get the led out of the housing and in my clumsy attempts to remove it appear to have damaged the led (not the heat sink).

Thanks anyway, any help gratefully received.

BOb

Hi Bob
I ve repaired quite a few of these
I am fairly sure I ve seen other threads where CPF members have mentioned that these will corrode if the head gets active, when turned off in salt water
This is because the pill was not anodised like the Hollis backup of which its a cheap knock off
The pill as Packy said is removed using needle nose plyers , you might need to use a shifter as well to get enough leverage as its likely the manufacturer may have used epoxy/glue to try to isolate the pill
The led is on a 20mm star, you can use something like this Xm-l plus a little smear of headsink compound underneath
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1609/10001903/1137103
If the driver needs replacing its not that easy as its a odd size
You need to mess around with a piece of $2 , 20mm plumbing copper pipe(its the joiner for 3/4 inch pipe) to make a small ring as a spacer plus and a bit of P60 pill to get this driver to fit if you don't know someone with a lathe
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S010093
The link for a P60 pill
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1616/10002799/1208606-driver-pillar-for-flashlight-diy
Most important is to isolate the screw thread of pill from the thread in head using a few layers of plumbers teflon tape
Check with a voltmeter that no current is passing when the torch is off
Also a good idea to replace the o rings
When diving its preferable to use this torch as your primary as when its on its not going to corrode
Hope this info is helpful

Hey Tambjaman,

cool, many thanks. If I'd kept up the clumsy attempts a bit longer i would have got the old led off. Yes you were right about the epoxy, I have now cleaned all this off.

thanks again for the advice, I'll let you know how I go.

see ya
Bob

Hi Guys

Just wanted to let you know that I followed your tips and hey presto !!! torch back working as new. Just FYI I managed to re-use (with some crude but careful adjustment) the old driver seat with a hold ground in the middle. All looks great, more solid than before and it works both over and under water.

Thanks for the help and the advice.

See ya

Bob