Aluminum P60 style (D26) 26650 Light Housing ** Interest / Discussion **

[Mike Docherty]

Well, Sorry I posted that new picture. This new version can't be made. It was just a fun rendering.

Ok. It really can be made. It will cost more for the horizontal grooves since I will have to put it in the mill, after the lathe, which adds more operation. So if I did the horizontal slots on the body also that is adding yet another mill operation. I was trying to keep the cost down for everyone when I first started designing this light with something that looks nice without too many different operations which add to the cost.

This new rendering that I did still uses the standard D26 style front on the battery tube. I believe there is an adapter that can convert a C series to an M Series isn't there? So you would be able to use a D36 head on a C series body with a C2M Adapter.

I could always try to make a D36 Accessory head for this also.

Here is how I see it so far. It seems the newest design is the most popular so far so as of right now it will probably be this style that will get machined.

I can still put a lanyard hole in the tail cap without any problems. It will be on the horizontal milled slot towards the back.

Trit slots will probably be better on the tail cap now. Either on or in between the horizontal milled slots. I MIGHT be able to put them vertically on the front of the head right behind where the crenulated bezel will screw on. If someones understands what I am talking about and would like to photoshop or paint the trit slots in where I have indicated that would be great. I just don't have the time right now to do that.

-There is a C to M adaptor from Lumens Factory that works very well, in fact the gray color of the adaptor looks like it could work very well with the color of the host in your renderings.

If you are interested in playing around with D36 options. I can send you: 1) A Nailbender D36 drop-in 2) A Lumens Factory C to M adaptor 3) A Surefire M3 head

When I find something I like, I tend to grab at least two so I have these things lying around...Also I believe I'm the closest to your shop. Just let me know.

Mike Docherty

[Drywolf]

I have started on a couple prototypes. Well, the bodies that is. Once I finish the proto I will submit a picture.

"I'm ready"

[supersuby]

I can still put a lanyard hole in the tail cap without any problems. It will be on the horizontal milled slot towards the back.

Trit slots will probably be better on the tail cap now. Either on or in between the horizontal milled slots. I MIGHT be able to put them vertically on the front of the head right behind where the crenulated bezel will screw on. If someones understands what I am talking about and would like to photoshop or paint the trit slots in where I have indicated that would be great. I just don't have the time right now to do that.

Throw me on the list if we can do the trits in the tail and head. Black or natural does not matter, but Blue trits please

[Glenn7]

I don't see my name on the list.
I'll need one for that D36 drop in your going to make/test that Drywolf is helping me to get to you Chris.

[TnC_Products]

Ok Glenn7, I got you on the list now.

[supersuby]

Sweet i made the list, I am so looking forward to this one

[supersuby]

Trit slots will probably be better on the tail cap now. Either on or in between the horizontal milled slots. I MIGHT be able to put them vertically on the front of the head right behind where the crenulated bezel will screw on. If someones understands what I am talking about and would like to photoshop or paint the trit slots in where I have indicated that would be great. I just don't have the time right now to do that.

Not the greatest at photo shopping but i gave it a try, did one in Blue and one in Green

[Glenn7]

D36 Drop in is on its way to being built/sent - hope its still on your agender Chris?

[Baddog]

man since the 26650 format has hit the streets it has made the 18650 obsolete for me, cant wait for this one Chris, btw ever thought about an extension for an extra 26650? the mind boggles...

[Drywolf]

btw ever thought about an extension for an extra 26650?

What I think would be cool is an extension for another 26650 and a channel down the inside of the body so the cells could be wired in 2P format and not just 2S.
Color me foolish,
Frank

[Baddog]

What I think would be cool is an extension for another 26650 and a channel down the inside of the body so the cells could be wired in 2P format and not just 2S.
Color me foolish,
Frank

not foolish at all woolfy, in fact its the next best thing...

[ipreferpie]

Wow! Can't wait to see the finished product I'll second the 2P extension too -- would definitely buy that as well.

[supersuby]

I am in either way, but i would also love a 2p extension that would be sweet

[Drywolf]

Hi Chris,
How's it going? If you have time can we get a quick update.
Thanks,
Frank



.

[TnC_Products]

Ok. Here is an update. I am trying to accomodate the D26 and D36 heads. It seems that the Nailbender D36 drop-in will not quite work with the C to M Adapter. So, now I am going to go a different route with this project. Basically, back to the way I started it.


These will be the parts to the 26650 light:

• Tail Cap that can use a McClicky switch with C adapter or a Fettie switch
• 26650 Battery Tube
• Head that will use a D26 Drop-in

Parts that can be purchased in addition to the 26650 D26 Housing:

• Head that will fit a D36 Drop-in
• 26650 Extension Tube
• TnC High-Powered Head (Threaded Module for much better heat transfer between parts) ??? In Designing Stage - No ETA

Not sure about the slot inside the tube for P2 Setup as the two tubes would have to be timed so the slots would line up when they were tightened together. Sounded like a really good idea though. But it could be done after you receive your light by using a hacksaw. (Remove the blade, put it through the Battery tubes, attatch the blade, then saw your slot in both tubes as they are screwed together.) Just a thought.

[Drywolf]

These will be the parts to the 26650 light:

• Tail Cap that can use a McClicky switch with C adapter or a Fettie switch
• 26650 Battery Tube
• Head that will use a D26 Drop-in

Parts that can be purchased in addition to the 26650 D26 Housing:

• Head that will fit a D36 Drop-in
• 26650 Extension Tube
• TnC High-Powered Head (Threaded Module for much better heat transfer between parts) ??? In Designing Stage - No ETA

This is an awesome list!
Can't wait Chris
This light will be legendary


I'll take:

2x26650 light
Head that will fit a D36 Drop-in
26650 Extension Tube

Frank

[Drywolf]

But it could be done after you receive your light by using a hacksaw. (Remove the blade, put it through the Battery tubes, attatch the blade, then saw your slot in both tubes as they are screwed together.) Just a thought.

I might use this instead:

[Rat]

Thanks for the update.
So will your main goal will be to get the first stage out ASAP?
Than the other addition parts after the complete 26650 D26 torch has been completed.


That’s sounds like a good plan as my anxiety levels is getting out of control waiting


cheers

[karlthev]

Sounds great Chris, particulrly the hacksaw suggestion! I'm in!!


Karl

[supersuby]

I am already on the list but this is what i'll take

• Tail Cap that can use a McClicky switch with C adapter or a Fettie switch
• 26650 Battery Tube
• Head that will use a D26 Drop in
• 26650 Extension Tube
• And trit slots on the head and tail ( more=better )

[Baddog]

Ok. Here is an update. I am trying to accomodate the D26 and D36 heads. It seems that the Nailbender D36 drop-in will not quite work with the C to M Adapter. So, now I am going to go a different route with this project. Basically, back to the way I started it.


These will be the parts to the 26650 light:

• Tail Cap that can use a McClicky switch with C adapter or a Fettie switch
• 26650 Battery Tube
• Head that will use a D26 Drop-in

Parts that can be purchased in addition to the 26650 D26 Housing:

• Head that will fit a D36 Drop-in
• 26650 Extension Tube
• TnC High-Powered Head (Threaded Module for much better heat transfer between parts) ??? In Designing Stage - No ETA

Not sure about the slot inside the tube for P2 Setup as the two tubes would have to be timed so the slots would line up when they were tightened together. Sounded like a really good idea though. But it could be done after you receive your light by using a hacksaw. (Remove the blade, put it through the Battery tubes, attatch the blade, then saw your slot in both tubes as they are screwed together.) Just a thought.

what we really need is an IMR equal to 2x 26650's...

[ledaladdin]

Sounds great Chris, particulrly the hacksaw suggestion! I'm in!!

[TnC_Products]

It was just a suggestion that anyone could do if they really wanted to run a wire to make the batteries parallel.

Once I can start putting these proto parts together I will start submitting pictures.

[karlthev]

Karl

[Halibut]

I really like this design. Is it too late to jump on the bandwagon?

-Dan

It should be less than half the price of the Ti version. Once we finally get to the final design then I can actually get a better estimate of the cost.

I was just playing around with the head a little for better heat dissapation for the High current drop-ins. I enlarged it a little and added more fins. Here is just a quick rendering. Not sure if I am going to add this to the maybe list.

[TnC_Products]

Not too late Halibut. I am just working on the protos. I am thinking that maybe when these are produced they should be bead blasted for more of a matte finish.

I am just waiting for some new tooling to arrive so I can finish off the protos. I am hoping to have some parts done so I can post pictures of the progress.

[Nokoff]

I'm interested to see which iterations materialize..I hope that the affordable aluminum workhorse 26650 C head body with, or even better, without a head is still in the mix somewhere. whoever rocks that need first is going to sell a bundle

[Halibut]

Not too late Halibut. I am just working on the protos. I am thinking that maybe when these are produced they should be bead blasted for more of a matte finish.

I am just waiting for some new tooling to arrive so I can finish off the protos. I am hoping to have some parts done so I can post pictures of the progress.

I think a matte finish would be fantastic--no sharp edges to mess up the HAIII! I'm glad I'm not too late, this is just the host I was looking for.

-Dan

[Rat]

Hey TnC
What’s the chance of having one of these bodies made with a thicker wall making the outside diameter bigger ?
I will get the diameter soon but in the mean time I was just wondering if it could be done ?

cheers

[TnC_Products]

Hey TnC
What’s the chance of having one of these bodies made with a thicker wall making the outside diameter bigger ?
I will get the diameter soon but in the mean time I was just wondering if it could be done ?

cheers

Rat, that can be done. I just need to know what Diameter you would like it to be. The only problem with that is it will change all the diameters of all the rest of the parts. Now if the threads can stay the same and just the body is a larger dia then I can work with that.

Chris