My first modified maglite - 2500 Lumens Goal

[cdrake261]

Alrighty, here's my attempt at building my first mag-lite after doing a whole lot of reading from every corner of the internet. I'll keep on updating this first post with my lastest update as it may take a little while. My goal here is to try and get 2500 lumen by using three cree XM-L, TaskLED H6Flex, Sandwich Shoppe perfect tri-star heatsink, and my 4D grey mag-lite as a host.

I was considering lithium ion 32600's x 4 in series to get me 17.2v at 5,000mAh depending what brand you are looking into. Three XM-L's equals out to 9v plus 2v to run the H6Flex, so I'll need 11v minimum. Or switch to a C cell mag-lite and beef up on the heatsink and use 26650's...

I should also note that I won't be using these XM-L's but I'm on the hunt for star shaped PCB with XM-L's. Please feel free to make a suggestion or comment, they are weclome'd as I progress with this project.

Some pictures thus far:

[tx101]

Will you be using reflectors or optics for your build ?

[The_bad_Frag]

I should also note that I won't be using these XM-L's but I'm on the hunt for star shaped PCB with XM-L's. Please feel free to make a suggestion or comment, they are weclome'd as I progress with this project.

I don't know if I understood it right... You mean all XM-Ls on 1 star? Like this? Or each LED on its own star like this?

[cdrake261]

Will you be using reflectors or optics for your build ?

Reflectors...This one below just needs a little fitment:

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/3-cree-...m-x-50mm-11922

I don't know if I understood it right... You mean all XM-Ls on 1 star? Like this? Or each LED on its own star like this?

Three XM-L's on stars in series to reach 9v needed for the LEDs and another volt or two for the driver. I'll need at least 11volts to make sure I can reach full brightness but with 32600/32650 in a 4D maglite, I'll end up with between 14.8v and 17.2v, I'll be using this heatsink...

[GulfCoastToad]

Looks good so far. What have you spent, and what's your budget?

[tx101]

Are you sure the PTS and DX reflector will
fit inside the Mag head ?

[cdrake261]

Looks good so far. What have you spent, and what's your budget?

I'll have to get back to the house and check on what I spent, budget around $300...preferably less.

Are you sure the PTS and DX reflector will
fit inside the Mag head ?

Honestly, not sure... I have to find out what tolerance I have to work with. When I get free time, I'll look over dimensions again and double check. If I need to, I'll just have a new bezel machined to fit that that heatsink and reflector. I know that I need to turn down the reflector OD to fit the head, so this is a chance for a good fit(and additional mass to draw heat away. I'm also considering finning the head if it helps any...

[moderator007]

Finning the head does help. As this increase the aluminum's surface area. Just like heatsinks for pc's do.

[tx101]

Just got home from work and had a rummage thru my parts bin.
I think you may run into problems using the PTS and DX reflector

I have taken a photo to show you


PTS-C and DX reflector for XREs


The recesses for the stars will not allow the reflector to sit over the emitters
If you have access to a lathe you need to turn the PTS completely flat.

I more or less always use member Downloads "Multi-sinks" for multi-emitter
builds. They offer a range of adjustment to suit different height reflectors

[cdrake261]

Finning the head does help. As this increase the aluminum's surface area. Just like heatsinks for pc's do.

Alrighty then, I'm going to make that a point to have done, I'm sure this flashlight will get hot very quickly.

Just got home from work and had a rummage thru my parts bin.
I think you may run into problems using the PTS and DX reflector

I have taken a photo to show you


PTS-C and DX reflector for XREs


The recesses for the stars will not allow the reflector to sit over the emitters
If you have access to a lathe you need to turn the PTS completely flat.

I more or less always use member Downloads "Multi-sinks" for multi-emitter
builds. They offer a range of adjustment to suit different height reflectors

So "download" makes and sells heatsinks? I really like to use that reflector with the convenience of using a bolt to make a reflector, heatsink, LEDs sandwich.

[hellokitty[hk]]

17.2/4 = 4.3v per battery?

[cdrake261]

17.2/4 = 4.3v per battery?

Absolutely max voltage... 4.2v is more realistic max though

[cdrake261]

Alrighty, I reworked the switch a little bit as the angles of the wires and shoddy soldering was bugging me but looks much better now my soldering skills are getting better. I also got the wires soldered to the driver and plans to use some small quick connects so should I need to detach the head, I can just pop those apart. I did forget to mention that I wanted this switch to be a little heavier gauge switch and used 18 gauge wires for the positive(red) and negative(black) wires, 26 gauge for the signal(green) wires... in theory, this switch should be able to handle 6amps but I'm planning to use either 3.6amps or 5amps as my max. I'm also considering using an low output blue led for the on board voltage monitor to alarm me that the voltage has dropped below a certain set value, kinda like this one:




...and a quick picture of my wired up H6Flex driver:



How is everything looking so far? Remember, questions/comments/suggestions are welcomed!!

[cdrake261]

Been busy for a little while, here's some updates I made on other forums about a week ago:

-----------------------------------------------------

The driver I'm using has an diameter of 33mm and the heatsink ID is 27mm and the OD is 34mm, if I tried to machine it down, I'd be left with a 1mm wall. So I'm going to cut the rear of the heatsink off so I can mount my driver to the heatsink and still be able to use thermal protection. I'll do some more thinking when I have everything in my hands, however I'll be working on voltage monitor led this week which will include a resistor, a small circuit board, and an led in the color of red, orange, blue, or green...which color do you guys think?

Total spent on this project thus far(rounded off of course):

$22 4D maglite
$67 4x 32650 lithium ion batteries
$14 2x UCL glass lens
18€ 3x reflector
17€ Aluminum heatsink
27€ Custom star pcb with three xm-l t6 LEDs
3.45€ International shipping

So far around $200, budget is at $300

I may add glow in the dark o-rings like I have on my xm-l mini maglite, as well as a stainless steel bezel for looks and added durability.

-----------------------------------------------------

Been a couple days since my last update, hadn't done much but got my simple battery voltage monitor led put in. Didn't get good pictures and I'm honestly not 100% satisfied with the looks of the messy epoxy glob, but it does hold and it does works. If I can locate another maglite switch, I may make a version 2 mag switch without the messy epoxy and use plastic spacers and screws instead.

I'm also thinking about getting into the business of building custom maglites...err....another thread on that later.

It's been suggested to use clear plastic rods instead of fiber optic cables to transfer light from the voltage monitor led to just above the switch. I'm getting excited now!

I'm out of town now, but two of three packages should have arrived today or will arrive on Monday. I'm wondering if my package from germany has been delayed due to irene. Aside from making version 2 of my switch and drill the hole for my optical plug, I'll be at a standstill without my headsink...

-----------------------------------------------------
(6 days ago)

Just contacted my supplier in Germany that he shipped out on the 24th, so I'm expecting my order to be in around sept 2nd to 7th. My lithium ion cells and UCL glass should be arriving any minute now.

Going to Lowe's to look at drill presses, since I figured out my fiber optics problem thanks to a member on here(credit will be given when I find his/her screen name).

-----------------------------------------------------
(4 days ago)

Well, the messy white epoxy killed my original maglite switch so version two is in the works with a different wiring layout and the circuit board with the status led and resistor will be screwed on instead of epoxied like the last switch. Also note that this is the newer model maglite switch and not an older model like my original modified maglite switch. Here's some teaser pictures:





Amazing how much better quality switch one can make with a new drill press, perhaps I can upload pictures of that, but currently sitting in a hospital room. Maybe tomorrow....

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(3 days ago)

Some video updates:

d0faa4a8.mp4 video by cdrake261 - Photobucket

1d1d6140.mp4 video by cdrake261 - Photobucket

Also, I forgot to mention my 4 lithium ion batteries went AWOL but hopefully they will show up today, I'm also expecting my german shipment on Friday, so keep a look out for more updates.

[cdrake261]

I finally got my lithium ion batteries the other day after figuring out they were sent to my old address, but you don't really take in how much larger these batteries are to the alkaline D cell...



See? I told you so... These do not fit my 4D maglite, so either buy a 5D, extension tube, or custom tail cap. For the last two option, how much and where do you suppose I can get quality parts?

As I was saying earlier, my version mag switch got goobered up so I had to make a version 2 and let me tell you, it was a PITA! So much so I may never create another one unless I was offered lots of money or come up with a better solution to engineering it. The inconvenient gaps around the switch didn't give me the bite I really wanted to secure the PCB/LED so I had to go into the switch. If I were to offer this type of construction to somebody, it would after I got a lathe so I can make a solid piece with no gaps. Anyways, here's more pictures:








In case anybody was wondering, the PCB with the LED and resistor is around 28.5mm...just small enough to clear the snap ring inside the maglite but large enough to give me some surface area to put some small bolts through.



As you may notice in the above picture, I made a safe battery pack to test my driver and LED...all works well, getting used to the menu on the driver is funky at first but you will get the hang of it rather quickly.

[The_bad_Frag]

Looks good so far.

Where did you got the 32650?

I wanna see your driver heatsink solution.

[cdrake261]

Looks good so far.

Where did you got the 32650?

I wanna see your driver heatsink solution.

http://m.novaeproducts.com/site/mobi...etwork=fw#3220

The pictures shows them wrapped in blue, but mine came in green... 3.815v-3.825v range is what they measured at.

Still waiting for my heatsink, LEDs, reflectors to show up from Germany... No idea when it will show up since I do not know if the package got hung up by hurricane irene

[The_bad_Frag]

You will use heatsink, led board and reflectors from DW now? I see in your parts list above that you forgot to order the o-ring!

Im also working on my triple Mag right now. I would really love to see both lights side by side.

[cdrake261]

I'll order the glow in the dark o-rings at a later date, or reuse my maglite o-ring

[cdrake261]

It came in!! I am seeing the conflict between my switch tower, my driver, and the heatsink. I may use use a specially made heatsink to side the driver sideways and still be able to use an status led, but trade off will be thermal monitor(lack thereof).

[cdrake261]

Alrighty, been a while since I've updated...The part of the main heatsink that slides into the body is roughly 26mm long and and the space between the top of the tube and the switch cut completely flat is also roughly 40mm, so that gives me 14mm to work with if I don't cut the main heatsink back(ideal for XM-L's heat management) or if I trim the heatsink back by 13.5mm(not ideal for XM-L's heat management) and I would then have 27.5mm to play with. So I am considering angling the driver, which throws the driver heat monitor and cut off features out of the picture, status LED may not even make it in the picture either...

The h6flex is a hair bigger then 33mm and the maglite tube is 34.16mm and originally I was going to lay the driver horizonal but that wouldn't give me enough room for my 18ga. wires(diameter of about 1.88mm). This driver is just plain too large for this maglite without fancy heatsinks to angle it.

Another option is to not use this driver and find a smaller 2 or 3 mode driver that will fit inside the heatsink ID of 26.5mm or smaller....any idea's?

Here's my thoughts on the driver heatsink if I decided to go with the TaskLED driver...

[cdrake261]

Got hole drilled for the plug, and plug installed...works better than expected!

[cdrake261]

[Rando]

Looking good, can't wait to see it fired up! Is the voltage monitor a function of the H6Flex or is it something separately installed?

[cdrake261]

Looking good, can't wait to see it fired up! Is the voltage monitor a function of the H6Flex or is it something separately installed?

Yes... Voltage monitor and cut off, as well thermal cut off and status led(green light) are part of the h6flex.

Heatsink will hopefully be done getting a trim job at my uncles shop, if so, I'll be mounting the driver this weekend. Send my maglite head out to Jesus today, or that's the plan anyways. I think I'm gonna get either an accurcell-8 or icharger equivalent. Ichargers are nice, but money is tight....

[cdrake261]

Scored a mitutoyo caliper at a pawn shop for $25 bucks...good deal?

[cdrake261]

Here's my heatsink machined down, this weekend I'm going to drill some holes to route power and ground to the led...

[cdrake261]

more pictures!!!


heatsink after being cut down, before heading to drill press...



Pictures after drill press...







You know the drill(like the pun? ), feel free to ask questions and make suggestions.

[Broker]

Scored a mitutoyo caliper at a pawn shop for $25 bucks...good deal?

That's a micrometer, not a caliper, & yes, that was a great deal!

[cdrake261]

That's a micrometer, not a caliper, & yes, that was a great deal!

Oops...tehe....

Anyways, flashlight build is on hold for now because power has been cut so the roofers won't kill themselves...