I'm not going to fin the head as I originally planned, so chance of beam shots tonight pending if curing of arctic adhesive.
Waiting to see those beam shots cdrake261.
You can try to connect your driver to your car battery. It must light up a single or triple XM-L with that... Maybe you have a broken power supply...
good news is that the one cell was tripped...putting it on the charger elevated that. If the driver isnt dead, it probably just shorted out. testing driver with a simple cell/led setup to check functionality now
Driver works with simple setup....now just have to remove arctic alumina and reseat driver onto the heatsink... But first I'm going to modify the heat sink to help prevent grounding out the wires that passes through the heatsink
Alright...everything tested and everything works!! Phew!! Going to grab me some liquid electrical tape to make sure there's no grounds anywhere....beam shots tonight, unless another failure...
Glad to hear she's alright. Looking forward to seeing the beam shots. You have put alot of effort it in to this build I was hoping you had not killed it.
My head came in, gotta grind the old epoxy off the heatsink, get more epoxy, solder up the new driver, and assemble...
Good job Jesus Hernandez
How much % more surface area do you get with this?
Glad to see you are about to get her going again. I just wanted to ask if you had put any thermal paste on the surfaces of where the heatsink contacts the mag. Such as heatsink compound made for cpu's not the epoxy thermal compound. I use Artic silver thermal compound. Without the compound you want get as much heat trasfer to the head so that it can give off the heat. It will for the most part just stay in the heatsink.
Last edited by moderator007; 10-01-2011 at 09:27 PM.
Meh... got the new board wired up, but the light stays on. I checked for continuity and it works as it should, but when I put the batteries in, I'm getting a small voltage across the two lead wires ranging from .0001 to .06 volts and if I unsolder them from the driver and use a paper clip to short the two signal ports, the driver turns on and off as it should. Where could this small voltage leak be coming from?
Can you post a pic which show how your driver is mounted on the heatsink?
Did you used a thermal pad to mount it?
And how do you prevent all these tiny pins on the back side from shorting out on the heatsink?
Yeah I know. But when its on the heatsink how do you know that there is enough epoxy under it that those contacts doesnt come in contact with it?
Hopefully you dont kill another driver because of that.
Sorry to hear about your bad luck with the first board. Perhaps George can repair it? Better than just throwing it away. I like the way you drilled new holes in the heat sink for the LED output wires. It gives a full size mounting surface as well as taking advantage of the H6Flex's ability to monitor temperature. That's a nice solution to a difficult problem. I had imagined using something like an H6Flex by putting a very thin layer of Arctic Alumina epoxy on the back of the board with an old credit card and let it harden. A second layer after light sanding would safely glue it in place without danger of a short. Perhaps like The_bad_Frag said, the Bond-Ply pad that comes with the H6Flex if not as effective might be safer than thermal epoxy.
I thought about coating a thin layer of superglue or fingernail polish to the exposed solder and electrical points before thermal epoxying this driver down. But I need to get the switch situated first. Might rebuild the switch to make sure I did it right.
Also, anybody know where to find m2 screws? I lost two of three, they hold the led board down...
You should be able to get M2-0.4 at the local hardware store. A good way to make sure it's a regular 0.4mm pitch thread. Home Depot also sells metric screws. But you'll probably have to get a pack of more than you need. Google has a ton of hits on M2's if you don't have any hardware stores nearby.
Anyways, anybody have any ideas on the switch problem? I just need to know where to start looking.