Zebralight SC80

[marinemaster]

Thanks guys is working but ONLY after I changed to a different battery. So with the original battery what it was doing after 7 clicks I had only 1 high level no strobe at all. Just 1 High level. I tried that like 10 times still only 1 High level. Only after changing the battery it started working with the 2 levels of the High mode. Then I put back the original battery and only 1 High level. I measured the battery that gives only 1 High level and it was 1.28 volts, then I measured the battery that has 2 High levels and it was 1.49 volts. So I guess when the battery is low you only get one high level. Thanks very much again.

[LightWalker]

1 AA has it's limitations, the 200 lumen high will be very short lived.

[marinemaster]

I do not like any or my lights running more than 80 lumens. On the High two levels I used the lowest one. I am not sure with the battery I am using now what level is running since is only one High level. I am wondering if it default to the highest level

[shane45_1911]

1 AA has it's limitations, the 200 lumen high will be very short lived.

Its runtime on AA is not that much shorter than a CR123.

ZL indicates:
CR123 220lm 1.2 hrs.
AA 200lm 0.9 hrs.

[LightWalker]

It's runtime on AA is not that much shorter than a CR123.

ZL indicates:
CR123 220lm 1.2 hrs.
AA 200lm 0.9 hrs.

I stand corrected, the runtime on max is very impressive and after looking at Selfbuilt's runtime graphs for the SC51, I have no doubts.

[aau007]

I like the SC80 idea with the internal battery adapter for 123 and aa battery. However, the 220 lm seems to be a little behind when other brands are pushing 500 lm and up with rcr123a battery.

So, how about an updated SC80 model with the following features:
1. Same internal adapter to use 123a and aa batteries.
2. Pushing upward of 500 lm or more with rcr123a battery.
3. Same 200 lm or more using aa battery.
4. Same side switch UI as current with a moonlight mode of no more than 0.5 lm.
5. Not sure if possible but an optional forward clicky tail switch just for instant access to max brightness and strobe.
Yes? No? Thoughts?

[Brasso]

I like it the way it is. If you put an xml in there it would be all flood and no throw. If you got it bright enough to throw the runtime would be horrible. And it's made to run on nimh AA's primarily. To put a tail switch on it would make it the same size as other lights and would ruin it's main feature, it's small size. 220 lumens is plenty for a pocket light. The HDS is only 200 lumens and people are paying $200 for them....gladly. There are a lot of small, high output, xml lights out there already.

[B0wz3r]

I like it the way it is. If you put an xml in there it would be all flood and no throw. If you got it bright enough to throw the runtime would be horrible. And it's made to run on nimh AA's primarily. To put a tail switch on it would make it the same size as other lights and would ruin it's main feature, it's small size. 220 lumens is plenty for a pocket light. The HDS is only 200 lumens and people are paying $200 for them....gladly. There are a lot of small, high output, xml lights out there already.

+1. I'd much rather have 50 lumens for 4 hours than 500 lumens for 4 minutes.

I wouldn't mind having a light like an SC80 with an XML though; I prefer floody pocket lights.

[nanucq]

+2, if i need 500 lm, i'll choose a 18650 (or multiple AA), runtime matters.

[dstat]

Hi all,

Here are some comparison shots between the three led models. The left is the sc80 (cree xp-g cool white), middle is sc80w (cree xp-g neutral white), and right is sc80c (philips luxeon rebel)










Below are some head-on shots. First is sc80c (philips luxeon rebel), middle is sc80w (cree xp-g neutral white), and third is sc80 (cree xp-g cool white).

Hope this is helpful!

[TyJo]

dstat, thanks for the great post. This is the next light on my list and I am leaning towards the SC80w. Do you have any real world usage experience or preference between any of the models?

[dstat]

Hi TyJo,

I really like these lights - I specifically bought them because they can take c123 or aa without any additional parts/extenders etc. They are going to be my "in case of emergency" lights for my cars and home. They are small and compact, pretty much the size of my mcgizmo sundrop. They do produce a bit of heat if kept on high for too long, but it is not something I am worried about for my usage. I think the sc80w is a good choice - it is my favorite of the three, and a good balance in terms of warmness/brightness. The Sc80 is a little cool for my tastes, and the sc80c feels a bit less bright compared to the others.

User interface is fine, I prefer clicky tail caps but these work pretty well. It is a little difficult to access the strobe/3rd "high" setting, but I don't see myself needing to use that feature very often. I do really like the flat end that lets it stand on its tailcap. I also like the super-low brightness setting around 0.1 lumens with a stated runtime of 29 days (good for dark-adapted vision in up close work).

The pics i posted btw were all running surefire 123a's. I also tested them all with energizer lithium aa's and with no problems.

[TyJo]

Awesome, thanks for the info. If I have the funds I will get the SC80w, I love my SC600w.

[burntoshine]

Did anyone else have any issues with their o-rings fitting properly? Mine do not make a seal on either head or tail. Unacceptable.

I am very fond of the SC600w and the H600w, although the anodizing seems to get lighter with each purchase. I can see the o-ring a bit on my H600w, but it's just barely tolerable; that headlight rocks for night bike rides, btw. But the SC80w that I got has significant gaps when the light is together (head & tail tightened all the way).

[peterharvey73]

I like the SC80 idea with the internal battery adapter for 123 and aa battery. However, the 220 lm seems to be a little behind when other brands are pushing 500 lm and up with rcr123a battery.

So, how about an updated SC80 model with the following features:
1. Same internal adapter to use 123a and aa batteries.
2. Pushing upward of 500 lm or more with rcr123a battery.
3. Same 200 lm or more using aa battery.
4. Same side switch UI as current with a moonlight mode of no more than 0.5 lm.
5. Not sure if possible but an optional forward clicky tail switch just for instant access to max brightness and strobe.
Yes? No? Thoughts?

I like it the way it is. If you put an xml in there it would be all flood and no throw. If you got it bright enough to throw the runtime would be horrible. And it's made to run on nimh AA's primarily. To put a tail switch on it would make it the same size as other lights and would ruin it's main feature, it's small size. 220 lumens is plenty for a pocket light. The HDS is only 200 lumens and people are paying $200 for them....gladly. There are a lot of small, high output, xml lights out there already.

+1. I'd much rather have 50 lumens for 4 hours than 500 lumens for 4 minutes.

I wouldn't mind having a light like an SC80 with an XML though; I prefer floody pocket lights.

Both XP-G and XM-L versions would be good in different ways; both have their pros and cons - neither versions are perfect.
Rather than just having an XP-G version only, or selling just an XM-L version only, why don't we suggest that Zebralight have both versions - to suit different uses and different tastes.
Just like Toyota gives us the choice of a manual gearbox, or an automatic gearbox; they don't just force us to use manual, or auto only.
Even Zebralight themselves presently offer a choice of cool, or warm tints, rather than just forcing everyone to use cool, or forcing everyone to use warm tints.
I think both versions of emitters should be available for sale, alongside each other.
Even the 4Sevens and the V10R comes with a choice XP-G and XM-L emitters.

For aau0007, likewise, we could make multiple models with small variations in user interface too including side switches, tail end switches, and even magnetic rings.
But like Brasso says, the main thing to remember with tail end switches, is it will add up to 10mm to the overall length; unless we use CR123 size only, and delete the AA size adaptor.
Likewise, we could even have a magnetic ring; the main thing to remember is that it too may add to the overall length, while giving infinite brightness capability, but low lumen runtimes will be diminished.
Each model variation has it's pros and cons; none are perfect.
It's just like the new iPad HD being available in: 16 GB, 32GB, or 64GB; then there's the same three models available in your choice of Wi-Fi only, or Wi-Fi + 4G; then there's black or white colour etc.

Thus, it doesn't hurt to expand the number of minor model variations available, to suit different uses and different tastes.
As long as we don't have too many model variations, which would prove to be very costly for the manufacturer.
We must get our balance right - not too little, not too much.


1) Btw, does anyone know the size of the SC80's hot spot, compared to the size of the SC600's hotspot? [I have the SC600 only].
2) Also, how bright is the SC80's spill compared to the brightness of the SC600's spill??
3) Finally, now does the SC80's hotspot brightness compare with the SC600's hotspot brightness?
I am thinking about getting the SC80 too...

[Fitz]

Got an SC80C yesterday, really nice beam. clean and a nice creamy white. I was surprised at the difference between it and the SC600W, makes the SC600W look really green and "ringy" by comparison. Output on high is close to the SC600W on medium by eye. Nice light, running it on a regular CR123 right now.

[Romanko]

Hi. Please, help. Which one is better to take SC80w or SC80c? Warm has more lumens. But maybe high cri is better?

[Brasso]

Romanko,

The c model will be slightly better than the w model in rendering color, but it's not much. If you're not a tint snob, like I am, you would probably like the higher lumens of the w model. I don't care as much about lumens and prefer a nicer tint, but to each their own. The overall output of both lights side by side won't be very noticeable either.

It comes down to whether you want brighter or better tint.

[edc3]

I don't have either of the SC80, but I've got both the SC51w and SC51c and the one I use most is the SC51w. Both the tint and the color rendering of the 51c are very slightly better (to me), but I carry the 51w for the extra brightness, better battery life at comparable levels and the slightly better (again, for me) beam pattern. I don't think you could go wrong with either, but it comes down to personal preference and tint/color rendering vs. efficiency.

[RonSD]

Between CR123 and L91, which would be the preferred battery for this light? I assume the CR123 would give a little more brightness, but would the lithium AA give more runtime?

[jeveux]

Between CR123 and L91, which would be the preferred battery for this light? I assume the CR123 would give a little more brightness, but would the lithium AA give more runtime?

I've been running my SC80W on alkalines and, believe me, the run time on H1 (max) is very short. Within minutes, there's no difference between H1 and H2. The output thereafter slowly diminishes further. Have now switched to L91 lithium - hope to fare better.

[burntoshine]

...So no one else has had any issues with the o-rings? Both the head and tail of my SC80w had either the wrong size o-rings, or were machined improperly. The o-rings were so loose that I wouldn't even grant the light a water-resistant rating. I know what properly fitted o-rings should be like. When you've owned many flashlights, you can tell when there is a good seal and you can also tell when there's absolutely no seal at all. I returned the light. Perhaps mine was the only problem. It is strange to me that the head and tail were completely equal in being defective. I thought for sure that because the head and tail were so consistent with each other, that there'd be other lights affected. Maybe a machining error...?

Zebralight is one of my favorite brands of flashlights. I had just recently purchased two SC600Ws and a H600W; they're fantastic torches. I have been using a SC50W+ for a few years at work. Someone recently offered to buy it from me. I had been wanting to try the SC80W since they were announced and saw this as a good opportunity. I sold my SC50W+, but now since I returned the SC80W, I have had to start using my NW 4Sevens Ti MiNi 123. I wanted that recessed soft clicky. I had thought about an exchange, but I just recently had another defect from a different company and I am getting tired of getting burned.

[B0wz3r]

Between CR123 and L91, which would be the preferred battery for this light? I assume the CR123 would give a little more brightness, but would the lithium AA give more runtime?

You'll get a slight boost in brightness, but it will hardly be noticeable if at all. You might only be able to tell with a meter or sphere. The run time should be comparable.

[RonSD]

You'll get a slight boost in brightness, but it will hardly be noticeable if at all. You might only be able to tell with a meter or sphere. The run time should be comparable.

Thanks, B0wz3r. I also asked ZL, and they responded that a lithium AA would provide "almost the same" runtime as a CR123 in the SC80. According to Energizer data sheets, the L91 appears to actually have more Wh capacity than a 123, but I'm guessing that the 123's higher nominal voltage would enable the light to use a greater percentage of that battery's capacity. Is that correct?

[B0wz3r]

Thanks, B0wz3r. I also asked ZL, and they responded that a lithium AA would provide "almost the same" runtime as a CR123 in the SC80. According to Energizer data sheets, the L91 appears to actually have more Wh capacity than a 123, but I'm guessing that the 123's higher nominal voltage would enable the light to use a greater percentage of that battery's capacity. Is that correct?

Something like that, yeah. I'm no EE but as far as I know the higher voltage allows more current to be supplied to the driver/emitter. Technically speaking, I think that means a 123 has more mah than an L91, but I honestly haven't been able to do anything with a 123 primary I couldn't do with an L91. In fact, If I lego my Quark 123^2 head onto an AA^2 body, 2xL91 lights it up just fine.

I've got an SC80c on my wish list, but am holding off currently because I bought two of the Quark HCRI 123's last fall, and spare AA and AA^2 bodies. I use one with the AA body as my regular EDC, and the one I put on my AA^2 body lives in my hiking pack as my dedicated hiking/camping flashlight. It's a little bulkier and more awkward, but with both the AA and 123 bodies, I have the same flexibility as the SC80. The only real advantage is the nice side-clicky design, which I do prefer, but for now, the Quark works for me.

[Brasso]

Eneloops or some other rechargeable AA is the way to go.

[RonSD]

Thanks again, B0wz3r. I do have a technical background, but I'm new to this whole flashlights-and-batteries business and still figuring out the reasons for the various choices of battery types, switch styles, emitters, etc. etc. I really like the side button on my SC51w, and for now I'm happy with lithium batteries, so I was thinking about getting an SC80w in order to have the 123 option. I had assumed from their relative popularity that 123s must have some performance advantage over lithium AAs, but apparently that's not really the case. I see that there's some cost advantage, but if that becomes a factor I'll probably switch to NiMH. So the remaining reason for me to try an SC80 would be the shape, and I'm still undecided about that.

[B0wz3r]

Thanks again, B0wz3r. I do have a technical background, but I'm new to this whole flashlights-and-batteries business and still figuring out the reasons for the various choices of battery types, switch styles, emitters, etc. etc. I really like the side button on my SC51w, and for now I'm happy with lithium batteries, so I was thinking about getting an SC80w in order to have the 123 option. I had assumed from their relative popularity that 123s must have some performance advantage over lithium AAs, but apparently that's not really the case. I see that there's some cost advantage, but if that becomes a factor I'll probably switch to NiMH. So the remaining reason for me to try an SC80 would be the shape, and I'm still undecided about that.

Happy to help. The whole AA vs 123 argument is one of those things that there's no end to. Some people on here are die hard 123 adherents and insist that they're the only "real" flashlight battery, and consider anything that runs on AA's to be a "toy". I'm an AA adherent myself. Not that I don't have a few lights that can/do use 123's, it's just that I find AA's to be much more practical. They're much more widely used and cheaper in general. Also, I consider a light like an SC80 to be a better overall choice because of both its design and versatility. I'd rather have a light that can use two different cell formats than just one, and I like the way ZL has designed it so it doesn't need an extender, or a different body, etc. As I said, I'd love to have one, but I already have more lights than I can actually use, so I've put it off so far. I'll still eventually get one though, just gotta figure out how to keep my wife from knowing about it!

[keriya]

I just got a SC80c. Looks like a very nice light. There's just one thing that bothers me: when switched off, the light emits some kind of locator flash / beacon once per minute. Is there a way to turn this off?
I hope someone here can help me

[Fitz]

I just got a SC80c. Looks like a very nice light. There's just one thing that bothers me: when switched off, the light emits some kind of locator flash / beacon once per minute. Is there a way to turn this off?
I hope someone here can help me

Odd, mine doesn't do that. I know there's a strobe you can set under the high menu but I wasn't aware of any sort of beacon.