Vital Gear Switch Replacement Tutorials Note: 11/2/16. Many pictures were lost in a purge. The tutorial should still guide you well.
Low Current Option (Written by lightknot for replacement of a stock Vital Gear switch with another stock switch.)
This swap is very easy. Only one tool is needed, a pair of round nose pliers or snap ring pliers. A pair of snap ring pliers was used for this tutorial. (A big screwdriver or even a paper clip will work.)
Unscrew tailcap/ switch assemby.
Use snap ring pliers to remove brass retaining ring from inside the tailcap.
Push on outside end of rubber boot and the switch will pop out.
Reverse the procedure to install new switch.
This is not how it should look when you put the new switch in.
Push the rubber boot from the inside all the way until it seats. Then insert the new switch, white button first.
This is how it should look. Notice that the switch is sunken down below the threads of the tailcap:
Install the retaining ring manually. Make sure that the switch is seated properly in the boot and the brass ring before tightening. The circuit board of the switch must make contact with the brass ring. This is necessary to properly complete the electrical path. This step is not difficult, the switch will seat naturally and look like the picture below.
Then tighten with the snap ring pliers. Do not over tighten.
Screw the tailcap assembly back onto the body tube, assemble the head, and test.
High Current Option: (Written by nein166, reposted with permission.)
Another option is to replace the switch entirely with a DX reverse clikie high current switch.
Here is the light and the DX 11mm clickie
Bend the tabs out straight and very quickly solder a short spring on.
Now I found it necessary to dremel the hole the rubber boot fits in since the clickie is fatter than the micro-switch. Once the light is together the grind is not visible.
Insert the boot it should still be really tight.
And then press the clickie in there, its going to be really tight.
That's it just screw in the gold ring and put on the body. Don't try clicking it with out the light together since the clickie could pop apart. Maybe some glue along the tabs would keep this from happening. But as long as the batteries are in it should be fine.
More info will become available as testing progresses. Comments welcome.
Edit by Lightknot: By far the hardest part of this conversion is soldering the spring to the switch without melting the switch. I am supplying gold springs (as of OCT 2105) which flow solder very well. However, soldering skills are required!