Sunwayman V60C & Charging Base review (runtime, beamshots, pics )

turboBB

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Sunwayman created quite a stir when they first introduced their revolutionary Variable Magnetic Control System (MCS) as it allowed one to quickly and easily "dial up" the brightness they wanted. The MCS features prominently throughout the V series line; starting with the V10R up through to their latest, the V60C. However, the MCS is no longer the real news here but rather the new "soft contact" charging system that Sunwayman has incorporated into their newest V light. While a rechargeable light is not a novel concept, it's the execution that is. Let's see how well it does.



MFG SPECS
● CREE XM-L T6 LED, with a lifetime of 50,000 hours;
● Digital Sensor Magnetic Control system - slightly twist the Rotator Ring from left to right to select your desired mode ranging from 5 to 728 lumens, super-low standby mode, or a strobe function;Hidden SOS Mode: when the light is at Strobe mode, twist the rotator ring to the Max output and back to the strobe within 2 seconds, the SOS mode is activated; twist the ring away from the SOS mode and stay for more than 2 seconds, the Strobe Mode is resumed and SOS is hidden.
- Max Output: 728 Lumens (2hrs)
- Min Output: 5 Lumen (150hrs)
- Strobe: 728 Lumens
- SOS
● Constant current circuit, constant output
● Effective range of 395 meters
● Uses 3 x 18650 batteries (V60C charging base can be applied to charge the batteries); or 6 x CR123A primary batteries; or 6 x 16340 rechargeable batteries, but V60C charging base must NOT be applied to the 16340!
● Working voltage: 5.5~25.2V
● High quality reflector maintains great throw distance and spread with an ideal beam pattern
● Dimension: 165mm (length) x 57mm (head diameter) x 45mm (body diameter)
● Weight: 354.6g(battery excluded)
● Aerospace-grade aluminum alloy
● Military Specification Type III- hard anodized body
● Waterproof, in accordance with IPX-8 standard
● Ultra-clear tempered glass lens resists scratches and impacts
● Tail stand capable- can be used as a candle
● Included Accessories: lanyard, O-ring, holster



PACKAGING
The V60C arrived in a cardboard box w/foam inserts that provided ample protection:


Items shipped with the light were:
- Holster
- Lanyard
- 1 x large o-ring
- 2 x small o-ring's
- Instruction manual
- Warranty card
- Mini product pamphlet



DESIGN / FEATURES
The V60C will be instantly recognizable to anyone familiar with Sunwayman's lights as it features many of the same design motifs:
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This is akin to the strategy that certain car manufacturers have employed to make their entire line distinctly recognizable as their brand (e.g. the famed kidney grill on BMW's).

The V60C features what normally would be considered a turbo head @ 2.25" (56.9mm) but the batteries are arranged in the carrier in a triangular side-by-side-by-side formation, adding considerably to the diameter of the battery tube thus not giving it that impression. Here it is next to a M3LT (2.5" head) but unlike the V60c, the batteries are arranged inline with the tube:
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The flat stainless steel bezel was easily removed without any tools; it secures a AR coated lens (this isn't mentioned in the manual or product page) which I did not try to remove:
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The LED was just a tad off-center on my unit but it didn't contribute to any flaws in the beam that I could make out.


Just aft of the bezel is what looks to be an anti-roll ring, however it's purely cosmetic as it's actually slightly smaller in diameter than the bezel (so if you must lay the V60c on it's side, make sure it's a even surface otherwise it will go rolling off somewhere!). This gradual tapering effect continues sequentially down through the four cooling fins before finally leveling off at the control ring:
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The base is completely flat and offers a very stable foundation for tailstanding (albeit it won't rest evenly if the lanyard is in use):


There are springs on both the cathode and anode (in which case, it's covered):
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NEW 9/30: One thing I discovered while testing is that if I set the light on a hard surface with enough force, the light would temporarily black out. Upon investigating what might be causing this, I found that the rate of cathode's spring at the bottom of the battery tube to be very light. When dropping in the battery carrier, it will cause the spring to fully compress and bottom out. I speculated that what was happening was that when I set the light down w/force, it temporarily disengaged the carrier from the anode spring thus causing the temporary "off" state.

I raised this to Sunwayman's attention and their reply was that this was in fact by design to protect the batteries. They tested the light w/springs of various rates and found that when a spring with a strong rate was used, it transmitted more of the shock to the batteries during impact testing (which in certain cases, led to damages to the anode tips). Thus they purposely went with a spring w/a lighter rate.

With additional testing, I ran vigrously with the light and was not able to induce any blackouts. Only with extreme start/stop shaking motions that runs parallel with the light was I able to induce any blackouts. So from my perspective I don't think this is a major issue and actually appreciate that some thought was put into this and not that it was a design flaw. END NEW 9/30

The battery tube is a single integrated unit without a traditional tailcap or switch. The anode/cathode charging contact points within the base are uniquely designed to be exposed for easy docking to the charger and is affixed via four hex bolts adding to the rugged good looks of this light:


There have been some concerns raised that this creates a risk of shorting, however, given the anode is recessed, it lessens this risk greatly (but doesn't completely mitigate it):
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There is a built-in protection in the battery carrier that acts like a fuse in case a short does actually ever occur, however, once that happens the carrier will need to be replaced. I've made a suggestion that perhaps a PCB can be installed at each end of the carrier to help solve this problem.

NEW 10/3: To clarify what I mean when I say the anode/cathode are exposed, here's a pic of me taking a voltage reading by placing the leads on them:

END NEW 10/3

The battery carrier is smartly designed so that it can be inserted either way into the battery tube without worries of reversing polarity (you still however have to be mindful of inserting the batteries into the carrier in the correct polarity though). It achieves this by making a "parallel" connection of the anode/cathode through the bars (which are now heat-shrinked vs. the bare ones shown on Sunwayman's product page) that hold the two end pieces of the carrier together.


To expound (explanation to come):




The batteries are connected serially and can accomodate either 3 x 18650's (12.6V) or 6 x CR123's or RCR123's (18V & 25.2V respectively):
NEW: 10/5 END NEW



SIZE
The form follows what has been dubbed on the forums as a soup can shape; that is, short and "chunky" :nana::
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I don't currently have any other lights in this form factor so have compared it to the larger lights in my collection:
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From L to R: RediLast 3100, Dereelight DBS V2, Sunwayman V60C, Lumapower TurboForce Kit, SureFire M3LT, Klarus XT20

However, it doesn't feel overly large in my medium-sized hand: NEW 10/1



FIT & FINISH
This is now the fifth light from Sunwayman that I've had the privilege of testing/owning and I've come to expect a high level of quality and the V60C does not disappoint. Everything, from the solid build to the flawless finish, is truly top notch:
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As can be seen in pic above, the anodizing is flawless and matched between the head and tube.

The control ring offers just the right dampening to allow smooth control without being so stiff so that one handed operation in an underhand grip is possible with the forefinger and thumb. If there was but one nitpick here, it's that the the control ring clicks solidly when it hits the detents when rotating it CCW (ie: shutting off the light) but it doesn't have the same feel when rotating CW.

I also noted some very minute spots where the ano was missing on the square-cut threads on my sample but this would be the first Sunwayman for me that exhibited this:
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UI
As previously mentioned, the V60C doesn't have a conventional switch. The control ring is used for turning the light on/off as well as controlling brightness and accessing strobe and a hidden SOS mode. The ring offers approx. 135 degrees of travel total of which the brightness adjustment covers 110 degrees and the remaining 25 degrees of travel allotted to accessing the strobe/SOS mode. Save for a few design grooves, the control ring is smooth and doesn't feature any knurling. This may cause operational difficulties with gloves on.
[MORE TO COME]



RUNTIME
The relevant battery stats are provided above each runtime graph along with:
- Voltage of the battery at the start and end of the test
- Current draw as taken right before the test (to come)
- Actual runtime until the battery first starts to cut out (first in HR and then in M so in the case of the AW2600, read this as 2.1 Hrs OR 128 Min)
- For testing on Max (in which case a fan was used), temperature: ambient, the head at start and the max it reached



Axis: X = Time in Min and Y = Relative Output

I've only managed to get the runtime on 3 x AW 2600 for now but anticipate getting a 3rd RediLast 3100 by next week so will add those results later. I was able to exceed the stated ANSI runtime since the 2.1hrs were for the total time the V60C stayed on Max brightness.

NEW 10/5: Runtime on 3xRediLast3100 now posted; total runtime on Max was 2.6hrs. END NEW


INDOOR BEAMSHOTS
All shots on Canon S3 IS using WB that yields the closest to what my eyes see (left = 1/13" @ f2.7 | right = 1/80" @ f2.7).

Click on pics to load full size.

Due to the smooth and deep reflector, the V60C is definitely geared towards throw but still provides very good flood. It is currently the best thrower in my collection. Please refer to this post for beamshots and comparo to 17 other lights.



OUTDOOR BEAMSHOTS
All shots on Canon S3 IS, ISO 80 @ f2.7 using Daylight WB but the tint is actually not as green as depicted here. Distance to the white wall is 21.3 ft (6.5m) and to the steps (at the forefront of the bottom of the pic is 12ft).

Shutter speeds: left = 1/4" | center = 1/20" | right = 1/80"

Click on pics to load full size.

Please see outdoor comparo beamshots for V60C (and 23 other lights) here.

NEW 10/11: LONG DISTANCE (565ft / 172m)

Full details for this shoot and comparo vs. other lights here.



GALLERY
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Disclosure: V60C provided by Sunwayman for review.
 
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turboBB

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V60C Charging Base Review

If I'm not mistaken, the V60C's charging base is the first of its kind that allows one to charge a light directly though the bottom of its base (I'm aware of Pelican's Big Ed, but the prongs are on the side of the base and not directly beneath it). This offers extremely simple charging of 3x18650 batteries (6xRCR123's are NOT supported) without having to remove them from the light by simply dropping the light into the base where the respective anode/cathode contact points will mate (solely by the pressure of the weight of the light) and initiate charging:

For clarification of which is the anode/cathode; in the pic above, the anode point in the base of the light (surrounded by the white plastic ring) mates with the spring-loaded protruding anode point (surrounded by black plastic ring) in the charging base.

There is no twisting or connections that need to be manually made, just place the light into the base and easily remove it with one hand when you need to use it (however this also causes it to disengage easily when being charged in a car and going over strong bumps).



PACKAGING & CONTENTS
The V60C Charging Base comes in its own "cardboard w/cut-out window" style packaging:


The version I received comes with a US style connector on the adapter which supports 100-240V with a rated output of 12V 600mA:




SPECS & INSTRUCTIONS
Rather than retype the whole thing, I've taken a pic of the instructions and specs:

Note: I found it interesting that the cigarette adapter accepts the 24V system which I don't believe we have here in the states (please feel free to pipe in if you know differently).

The charger will only initiate charging if the collective voltage of the batteries are at 12V or less (+/- .1v).

The diameter of the base measures 3.06in (77.8mm) and fits perfectly in my car's cupholder: NEW 10/3

Obviously every car is different so the base might not fit if the cupholder is particularly small. END NEW 10/3



CHARGING ALGORITHM
NEW 10/22: In order to log both the V and C, I needed a second data logging DMM. There was a used 189 on the MP and although it was going for an excellent price, it's still a bit more than I can shell out at this time after I already splurged on the 289 earlier in the year and given I would also need to purchase another USB/IR adapter. I ended up in my local Radio Shack to pick up some cables and it just turns out they had two 22-812's in stock. I first found out about this DMM thanks to one of Mr. Happy's posts. At $49.99, it can't be beat for my needs so I picked one up as well as a RS232/USB cable. After a little hunting for COM ports, it detected the meter so I was set!

Or so I thought... as it turns out, neither the charging base nor the battery carrier are magnetic so I had to abandon my magnetic leads idea and start from scratch. After a little digging around in my parts bin, I ended up using:

- 2 x mini-ratcheting clamps
- 1 x 16340 spacer
- 2 x alligator jumpers
- 2 x alligator clip lead adapters
- 2 x short jumpers (old wires)

and jerry-rigged this contraption:


After I double-checked the wiring, I held my breath and plugged it in... WOO HOO! :party: it's working as expected (I think) :thinking::


In order: Charging base | batteries and carrier | Fluke View Forms & Radio Shack Meter View programs


Also, here is the wiring diagram:

So basically:
- Positive lead from Fluke 289 & RS 22-812 are connected to anode of charger
- Negative lead from 289 connected to jumper on anode of battery carrier
- Negative lead from 22-812 and cathode from battery carrier are connected to jumper of cathode of V60C charging base

Thanks to insight provided by HKJ's "How do I test a charger" write-up, I think I got the wiring correct but if one of you more knowledgeable folks see something wrong, by all means, please let me know.

It's currently charging up 3 x RL 3100's that were drained down to about 3.53V each (total V measured at start was 10.6V). The V has been steadily climbing (now at 11.39V, was 11.07 at start) while C has been holding steady around 419mA. I'll post the graph when it's done.

UPDATE 11PM: V now at 12.16 and C has dropped ever so slightly to 417mA.

NEW 10/23: OK, so I got the data points and plotted in Excel and it looks like this:



I'm not an expert on deciphering CC/CV charge curves but it looks like it conforms to that algo. The current was reduced down to 76.3mA right before termination and does not go into a trickle charge (no current detected). The ending V for the 3 cells totaled 12.4V (4.12, 4.13 & 4.15) so this didn't reach a full charge to 12.6V.

I have some stacking banana patch cords coming in next week and should be able to reduce some of the clutter. I'll also label each cells to track the V @ start/fin to provide additional details but again this isn't a balancing charger so eventually some of the cells will be a little off.

As mentioned, this is my first go at reviewing a charger so if anything is amiss, please feel free to pipe in.

Cheers,
Tim

P.S. Kilted has posted a great thread re: solar charging the V60C that might be of interest.
 
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candle lamp

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Re: Sunwayman V60C (review in progress... but now w/runtime, beamshots, pics )

Excellent reveiw and thanks for your time. turboBB! :thumbsup:

The runtime shows very good regulation. I think the build quality is as very high as other Sunwayman lights.

I know this review is in progress, but I have some questions as follows. Sorry about that. :confused:

The battery tube is a single integrated unit without a traditional tailcap or switch. The anode/cathode charging contact points within the base are uniquely designed to be exposed for easy docking to the charger and is affixed via four hex bolts adding to the rugged good looks of this light:
There have been some concerns raised that this creates a risk of shorting, however, given the anode is recessed, it lessens this risk greatly (but doesn't completely mitigate it)

Could you explain what the source of shorting is in more detail and show the picture of the charging base(or charger)?

The battery carrier is smartly designed so that it can be inserted either way into the battery tube without worries of reversing polarity (you still however have to be mindful of inserting the batteries into the carrier in the correct polarity though). The batteries are connected serially and can accomodate either 3 x 18650's (12.6V) or 6 x CR123's or RCR123's (18V & 25.2V) respectively.

Will you post the picture of the battery carrier?

Thanks in advance.
KH
 

infinus

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Re: Sunwayman V60C (review in progress... but now w/runtime, beamshots, pics )

Great job TurboBB!
 

Echo63

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Re: Sunwayman V60C (review in progress... but now w/runtime, beamshots, pics )

where is the switch on this one ? is is it the big charging contact on the back ? or just the MCS ring ?
 

Kilted

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Re: Sunwayman V60C (review in progress... but now w/runtime, beamshots, pics )

It seems to me a cap or a rubber plug to cover the charging port on the tail of the flashlight would work if you are in a hostile climate might help.

Excellent review I've been waiting on this for awhile.

=D~~Kilted
 

turboBB

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Re: Sunwayman V60C (review in progress... but now w/runtime, beamshots, pics )

Excellent reveiw and thanks for your time. turboBB! :thumbsup:

The runtime shows very good regulation. I think the build quality is as very high as other Sunwayman lights.

I know this review is in progress, but I have some questions as follows. Sorry about that. :confused:

Could you explain what the source of shorting is in more detail and show the picture of the charging base(or charger)?

Will you post the picture of the battery carrier?

Thx KH! All will be clear when I add some major updates to this review later today (inclduing pics of the charger and battery carrier)


Great job TurboBB!

Thx!


where is the switch on this one ? is is it the big charging contact on the back ? or just the MCS ring ?

Just the MCS ring, I'll be adding the UI section later today so check back in for updates.


It seems to me a cap or a rubber plug to cover the charging port on the tail of the flashlight would work if you are in a hostile climate might help.

Excellent review I've been waiting on this for awhile.

Thx! and good suggestion. The one that I sent to Sunwayman was that it'd be neat if they created a magnetic cap that could be easily BE "snapped" into place to cover the exposed base as well as have a USB port so that one can use it to charge USB devices in an emergency. This would be a great feature on a camping trip since you can then charge the light during the day in your car (or 12V cigarette socket power source).

Anyways, I still have a bit more to add to this review but will need to create some magnetic leads so that I can graph the charging algo. More to come...

Cheers,
Tim
 
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CobraMan

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Re: Sunwayman V60C (review in progress... but now w/runtime, beamshots, pics )

Thanks for the great review! I have been hoping someone would provide information on the V60C ever since it was announced.

Few questions still in my mind before I commit to buying one:

1) What is the rotation angle associated with the adjustable brightness? I am hoping it is something at least 270 or more.

2) Are there any concerns for charging the batteries inside the body of the light with heat build-up? Can the battery carrier be charged in the cradle outside the light?

3) Any chance of getting some long distance outdoor beamshots?

Cheers,
Tim
 

Kilted

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Re: Sunwayman V60C (review in progress... but now w/runtime, beamshots, pics )

OK, question; I made the dumb assumption all along that there is a blocking diode in the flashlight tail contact assembly. This is what I would do and it never occurred to me until now that there may not be one there.

Can you check with a meter to see if a blocking diode has been installed?

Thank you

=D~~ Kilted
 

turboBB

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@Candlelamp - battery carrier pics (as well as additional materials) posted as well as further explanation of anode/cathode points.

@CobraMan - Thx! And as to your questions:

1) I added this to the newly posted UI section but just to reply here, I measured about 135 degrees of travel of which 110 is for the brightness and 25 for the strobe/SOS mode. While this may be disappointing to you, consider using the V60C one handed in which I can commit the full travel in about 3 turns with my thumb and forefinger. I'll graph the output later.

2) I haven't done extensive testing yet but given the charge rate and use of healthy cells, I'd say there should be no concerns with heat buildup.

3) The weather here simply hasn't been cooperating but I'll eventually get some long distance shots soon.

@Kilted - No, there is no blocking diode, I can taking a voltage reading by placing my leads on the anode/cathode points in the base of the light.
 

Kilted

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Whoa! :confused: That's a bone head move!

From a safety point of view yes. If there were a blocking diode then the snap on tail cover with usb charger port would not work. Any one care to take on the task of designing the V60C USB charger port? Remember you are stepping down 12DC to 5VDC and a linear regulator may not be the best. Let's say round-about $20.
 

Kilted

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The 24VDC charger input is for aircraft. Many aircraft power systems are 24VDC. Remember travel inverters have 12/24vdc input, check the power adapter and see if the back end unplugs for the 24VDC plane adapter.

Great job with the review!!!

=D~~ Kilted
 
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turboBB

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Thx, I didn't realize the 24V system was also used for non-automotive purposes. As for the adapter, the wire is fixed and not removable. Has been a busy weekend but I'll be adding more to this review this week.

Cheers,
Tim
 

candle lamp

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@Candlelamp - battery carrier pics (as well as additional materials) posted as well as further explanation of anode/cathode points.

Thanks again. turboBB! :)

There have been some concerns raised that this creates a risk of shorting, however, given the anode is recessed, it lessens this risk greatly (but doesn't completely mitigate it).

I've read & seen the post again, but I'm still none the wiser. I'm sorry for my bad knowledge. :( Please let me know the reason for shorting.
 

turboBB

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@candlelamp, I've added a pic where I'm taking a voltage reading directly off the anode/cathode points in the base of the light (search 10/3). Hopefully this clarifies things.

I've also posted pics of the charging base in the car.

Cheers,
Tim
 

Kilted

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Tim,

Interesting photo of the voltage reading. In general the anode looks deep enough not to worry about it. But for those who do I would go to the local hardware store to find a plug to cover the anode.

Perhaps of even more concern what if the light was dropped in the water? IPX8 only means water ingress into the body of light protection. Off more concern would be to drop the light into salt water, I would expect the battery to be completely discharged as the electrodes electrolyze the water into hydrogen and oxygen.

Now for the charger to work it needs to be able to measured the battery voltage. There could still be a blocking diode with a high ohm sense resistor to provide voltage feedback. Check with ohm meter thru the shell.

I am not overly concerned and will keep mine on order.

=D~~ Kilted
 
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candle lamp

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@candlelamp, I've added a pic where I'm taking a voltage reading directly off the anode/cathode points in the base of the light (search 10/3). Hopefully this clarifies things.

I've also posted pics of the charging base in the car.

Cheers,
Tim

Now, I get it. I think your suggestion is good and hope Sunwayman approves it.
Thanks,
KH
 
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