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Thread: Emergency/Disaster Situation Lighting

  1. #61
    *Flashaholic* Burgess's Avatar
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    Default Re: Emergency/Disaster Situation Lighting

    Quote Originally Posted by eh4 View Post


    . . . . and get in the habit of using the least amount of light necessary.


    This is always good advice !


    No need to blast away with 50-100 Lumens, when 1 or 2 will be sufficient.






    Try it.

    Make it a habit.

    Get comfortable doing this.


    You may find it to be an Eye-Opening experience.


    Literally.

  2. #62

    Default Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Sam View Post
    The fact that AA's are so common is as bad as it is good. Some years back a hurricane was headed up the Chesapeake Bay. A few days before it hit my sister went out to buy some batteries. All of the common ones were gone. All sold out. No AA's. No AAA's, and no D's. She did find some C cells. Don't know about 123's. Since she wanted to ride the hurricane out at home, I loaned her lights and batteries enough to last. She had no C cell lights or 123's. The blessing of using common batteries is also the curse. I agree with the guys that say to plan on recharging batteries as much as possible (from cars). Otherwise use batteries that have the longest life like 123's in lights that give ample burn time. Though I have AA lights and recharge with Eneloops (and would bring them for sure), I'm really taken with the 18650 lights like the SC600 for max versatility and burn time. Bring a couple rechargers since you may not have time to only charge two batteries at a time. For more range and the additional back up use of 123's, I have a couple of TK21's (and others of course). Plan for the worst. Bring what you need and something to share. A bring a box of 123's & L91's just in case all your other plans turn to crap. A D cell and an c cell led light would be a good idea too as others have suggested. My 2 cents worth today.
    I've been preaching this for years, brother!

    AA batteries are fine to use and easy to find while there is a supply line for them.

    Once that supply line stops, the high demand for AA batteries will deplete the existing supply rapidly.

    If you're using CR123, the demand is EXCEEDINGLY low (at least in my place) unless you're a keen photographer in a long-term disaster. All those camera shops and specialty electronics shops will have CR123 batteries long after the last AA departs. Why would anyone with a AA or D light (99.99% of public) pick up those 'funny-looking' short batteries that don't fit any of their stuff?

    Granted the overall supply of CR123 is not as prolific as AA, however the supply is enough for the few people that will be using them.

    Also, call me crazy, but I did a little hunting last year and found all the warehouses, battery stores, electronics shops, etc in my area... Anywhere that probably has CR123 cells or even AA ... And I put pinpoints on a map of the area I have.

    If anything goes down and looks like it ain't coming back up, I'll be keeping a keen eye on those warehouses and buildings. If they look deserted, I'll be moving in to take what I need.

    Personally I recommend:

    - Keeping a supply of AA batteries for barter. Need a can of beans? Someone probably needs a pair of AA batteries. Very useful to have your own hidden stock of AA.

    - Use a light that runs on a less-common cell such as CR123. People who have them likely have no use for them and thus the barter price would be lower. Also, due to lower demand, long after the twinkies and candies have been pillaged from gas stations, you'll probably be able to find a few CR123 cells left on the rack... No one takes the funny-lookin cells.

  3. #63

    Default Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F

    Quote Originally Posted by eh4 View Post
    The LED lights are so much better now that I have no idea how it really compares, but I have an old CMG Infinity light with a red led, takes a single AA. I've run it repeatedly in power outages hung from the ceiling, lent it to a friend with his power cut off, again hung from the ceiling... I have no idea how long it runs, I never use a new battery with it but use it to kill old AA batteries, which it does a terrible job of, never seems to kill them.
    ...
    There's always been a bunch of other things eating batteries and spitting them back up with enough charge for the red led.
    I'm looking forward to seeing how the new neutral led AA Zebralight compares to it on low.
    It would be difficult for the ZebraLight to match it--that could only happen if the CMG Infinity's boost circuit were fairly inefficient, which does not appear to be the case. Among regulated white LED flashlights, however, the SC51/H51 series should be among the best--if not THE best--at draining single AAs because they do have exceptionally efficient circuits.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dean N View Post
    Yep, I have a couple lights like that. I don't know why red LEDs last so long... something else to look up, I suppose.
    It must have something to do with the inherently lower minimum forward voltage of red LEDs (as low as 1.7V), which in turn probably has something to do with the lower energy level of red photons. Typical white LEDs are actually based on high-intensity blue LED dies, which require a significantly higher voltage to light up at all. Obviously it is easier to boost nearly-dead cells to a lower voltage than a higher one, which helps red LED flashlights drain more energy from the cells than white LED flashlights can, and therefore run for longer, all else being equal.

    Quote Originally Posted by tsask View Post
    good point mentioned here about CR123s @$5-8 each being available in stores after the D's C's AA AAA are gone
    That's in the context of finding batteries in stores during an emergency, however--scrounging batteries from other devices at home and even other people is another matter.

    Quote Originally Posted by pblanch View Post
    Ok well as soon as I posted this I thought what would any self respecting CPF'er do. Well I opted the cheap way with a alkaline that I had after rummaging through the cupboards. I only had a pair of AA's so I stuck 1 into my ZL H51 and ran it till only the L1/L2 where able to be activated (man that thing gets hot with 1.5hr on high). So still had the 2 low levels running fine (and suspect would do so for a long time yet). Stuck it in the Xenos E03 and NOTHING not even a spark of life. I am sure it is not considered a battery vampire but just another reason why I will be keeping my H51 in my bag. I would love to hear from anyone who would have some knowledge in regards to the use of the PA40 and the amount of juice left in their "dead" batteries and if it will work in a H51.
    I've not done any serious testing because I don't want to risk having a battery leak from being completely drained, but I can say from experience that the H51 is really good at draining batteries for what it is, which is a regulated white LED 1xAA flashlight. Other types of flashlight (e.g. unregulated, multiple cells, red LED, etc.) may potentially do even better, but nevertheless I think the H51 is a great choice for emergencies (and lots of other things). By the way, one hint as to its efficiency is that it can hold regulation on an alkaline cell at the second-highest output level--H2, which is 140 lumens with the cool white model--for over half an hour, while most 1xAA flashlights cannot hold regulation on an alkaline cell at all when their output is anywhere near 100 lumens.

    Quote Originally Posted by pblanch View Post
    I know, I am really close to doing this experiment my self but L91's cost $20AUS here so this would be an experiment that is prohibitively expensive for me here. I wouldn't expect anyone else to do it either but am hoping someone has already tried it as Zebra light is quite a respected brand around the forum and would consider a H51 as a fantastic disaster/emergency light (I certainly do, I am a remote locality medic and is what I carry with me when I go out at night).
    I haven't done any formal testing, but one thing I'd like to point out is that it's actually easier to completely kill an L91 than an alkaline cell. L91s don't regulate as well as eneloops on H1, but will run for substantially longer on all modes--this and their other qualities make them great for some uses, including long-term backup. However, it is possible to run an L91 down so low on the high and medium modes that hardly any energy remains even for the low modes. In comparison, eneloops will step down to lower modes sooner and more abruptly, but they will usually have more energy available for the lower modes afterward. Wimpy alkalines weaken quickly on the higher modes, but seem to linger forever on the low modes, especially if you let them rest every so often. But run an L91 long enough even on M1 or M2, and it can and sometimes will DIE there--I mean dead as a doornail, no juice left even for L2. I'm not sure whether this is an H51 thing or a lithium thing or a combination of both, but I've seen a couple of CR123As die like that, too (in other flashlights).

  4. #64
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    Default Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F

    I also found that my ZL H51 was an excellent battery vampire - my 2nd best in fact. Doesn't mean I'd be rushing to put almost dead alkalines in it, too much risk of leakage and damage.

    My best battery vampire is a real cheapy from Windeal on ebay - it was still glowing (not brightly, but usably), when I pulled the battery out and it was showing 0.26v on my dmm.
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  5. #65

    Default Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F

    I've been playing with Zebralight H51Fc for a couple of weeks now and I've managed to get a brief flash on low with it using a dead battery that won't fire the old red CMG Infinity at all. I'm impressed.

    Gregozedobe I'm curious what the make/model of your cheapy battery vampire?
    Last edited by eh4; 12-25-2011 at 03:18 PM.
    The brighter the light, the darker the shadow.

  6. #66

    Default Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F

    Quote Originally Posted by Burgess View Post
    This is always good advice !


    No need to blast away with 50-100 Lumens, when 1 or 2 will be sufficient.
    Very true--for most tasks, especially under dark conditions, a couple of lumens is quite enough whether we need to conserve or not, and even 1/10 of that or less can often suffice.

    Quote Originally Posted by eh4 View Post
    I've been playing with Zebralight H51Fc for a couple of weeks now and I've managed to get a brief flash on low with it using a dead battery that won't fire the old red CMG Infinity at all. I'm impressed.
    That IS impressive! Frankly, I wouldn't have expected this, as red LED flashlights have a clear theoretical advantage in this respect, but obviously in practice there are a lot of other factors involved. The H51/SC51 series circuit must be really, really efficient (and the same circuit would have an advantage with red LEDs, by the way).

  7. #67
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    Default Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F

    Quote Originally Posted by eh4 View Post
    Gregozedobe I'm curious what the make/model of your cheapy battery vampire?
    It is labelled as: "Powerlight HX-G011 3W LED", ebay item # 140571826345 I'd have given you the link to make it easier, but that seems to be a no-no these days, especially for cheap lights. After a quick bit of google-fu they seem to be available from other (ahem) budget light sellers as well (Dx DD). All in all, a very cheap ($2.20 delivered) light that produces usable illumination that is ideal for "I don't really care what happens after I have gifted it" giveaways, and if a leaking alakaline kills it then not too many tears lost.

    Quote Originally Posted by GaAslamp View Post
    The H51/SC51 series circuit must be really, really efficient (and the same circuit would have an advantage with red LEDs, by the way).
    Note that not all ZL AA lights are equal performers in this respect. Based on my testing using a very depleted alakline AA, my Mk I H51 (GITD ring, no clip) is noticeably better than my SC51, SC51c and H501 (old model). Of course it may just be the LED in this particular light has a lower than average vf.
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  8. #68

    Default Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F

    ok, I'm still up and just read your replies, Merry Boxing Day all.

    Gregozedobe thanks for the recollection, it worked fine. I'm saving that search result but I'm also hoping that's not a fluke. It makes me wonder if technology wise there wasn't a thing that happened where the electronics tech exceeded the leds for a time before led tech exploded and efficient circuitry was scrapped for more powerful designs that could utilize the newer, more capable leds. ...And now there's lots of really well made, outdated circuitry out there in some really cheap electronics, subject to their quality of assembly of course. Just an outside view not knowing the particular realities of electronic design, I assume I'm missing some things.

    GaAslamp, I double checked that with the same battery (saved it because I thought it was cool) and I Was Wrong.
    The initial flash that I described is some capacitor thing in the light itself.......
    (drum roll)
    The battery will do much more than make a flash, it will tolerate being turned on to Med level with a double click (first click defaults to High with a momentary flash, second of double click sets level at Medium.) There is a brief flash, three or four seconds of dimmer brightness and then it goes into a flickering low. Minutes later typing this the light is still emitting a sickly dim flickering glow, the light dimming briefly about 8 times per second.
    I put the battery in the old CMG right before trying the H51Fc to give the CMG more of a chance, nothing though.
    I have run batteries down in the CMG to where the head came off with a high pressure pop before (more than 2 atmospheres I wager, definitely not worried about the CMG water tightness with it's 12+ years old o-rings).
    Test is over now, been typing slowly for the last 5 minutes or so and I turned it off and it wouldn't turn back on.
    Battery reads at .61v.
    I got another flash out of it, but now there is nothing, I'll bet I could get another few minutes of sickly flickering out of it tomorrow.

    Also just as Gregozedobe mentioned that the ZL led might have a lower vf (I don't know that term yet) another variable is of course that this particular CMG might be Less efficient than an average Red CMG for whatever reason.
    But I'll bet that the circuitry is just that much better, coupled with a nice led... too cool.
    Now if it'll just last as long as the CMG has I'll really be impressed, hope I outlast both of them. ;-)
    Last edited by eh4; 12-26-2011 at 01:49 AM.
    The brighter the light, the darker the shadow.

  9. #69
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    Default Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F

    Quote Originally Posted by eh4 View Post
    ...... the ZL led might have a lower vf (I don't know that term yet)
    I'm not that up on the techo side myself, but my understanding is that Vf (forward voltage) is the voltage that a particular LED needs to light up properly. From what I remember white leds usually take more voltage than red leds to fire up, which is why lights with red leds have a reputation as being good battery vampires.

    The efficiency of the boost converter needed to boost the single cell battery voltage sufficient to run a led is the most significant factor in a good battery vampire. I have an idea that some boost converters use more current to run themselves than others do, and at low light levels this can be more current than they actually supply to the led.

    ZL has a reputation as having some of the best boost converters around, which is why they get such good results from their x51xx series of AA lights.
    Last edited by Gregozedobe; 02-28-2012 at 03:13 AM. Reason: correcting spelling error
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  10. #70

    Default Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F

    Quote Originally Posted by Gregozedobe View Post
    Note that not all ZL AA lights are equal performers in this respect. Based on my testing using a very depleted alakline AA, my Mk I H51 (GITD ring, no clip) is noticeably better than my SC51, SC51c and H501 (old model). Of course it may just be the LED in this particular light has a lower than average vf.
    That's probably it. The Luxeon Rebel used in the ZebraLight "c" models, for example, has a typical Vf of 3.0 V at 350 mA, a minimum of 2.55 V, and a maximum of 3.99 V, which is a pretty wide range, I think. The Vf range for the CREE XP-G used in the other models isn't given in the data sheet, but the typical voltages are identical, so it's quite possible for one particular LED, regardless of whether it's an XP-G or Rebel, to have a meaningfully lower Vf than another. LEDs will vary in overall output efficiency as well, but not as much as they do in the minimum voltage required to get any light out of them at all, apparently.

    Quote Originally Posted by eh4 View Post
    GaAslamp, I double checked that with the same battery (saved it because I thought it was cool) and I Was Wrong.
    The initial flash that I described is some capacitor thing in the light itself.......
    (drum roll)
    The battery will do much more than make a flash, it will tolerate being turned on to Med level with a double click (first click defaults to High with a momentary flash, second of double click sets level at Medium.) There is a brief flash, three or four seconds of dimmer brightness and then it goes into a flickering low. Minutes later typing this the light is still emitting a sickly dim flickering glow, the light dimming briefly about 8 times per second.
    I put the battery in the old CMG right before trying the H51Fc to give the CMG more of a chance, nothing though.
    Even more WOW! Or maybe the boost circuit in the CMG is not nearly as efficient as we had suspected.

    Quote Originally Posted by eh4 View Post
    Also just as Gregozedobe mentioned that the ZL led might have a lower vf (I don't know that term yet) another variable is of course that this particular CMG might be Less efficient than an average Red CMG for whatever reason.
    That's a possibility with regard to the red LED. For comparison, the usual Vf range for these is 1.6-2.0 V versus the 2.55-3.99 V range given for the Rebel LXM3-PW51 LED used in your H51Fc. If your red LED's Vf is 2.0 and your white LED's Vf is 2.55, for example, then the superior efficiency of the H51Fc can make up the difference, although the red LED is still inherently easier to light up. I was already somewhat surprised that your H51Fc lit up at all, but being able to run on Medium even for a moment is even more impressive.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gregozedobe View Post
    I'm not that up on the techo side myself, but my understanding is that Vf (forward voltage) is the voltage that a particular LED needs to light up properly. From what I remember white leds usually take more voltage than red leds to fire up, which is why lights with red leds have a reputation as being good battery vampires.
    As pointed out above, red LEDs are still easier to light up, although the difference is not quite as pronounced as I had initially believed (on the average, yes, but not at the adjacent extremes).

  11. #71
    *Flashaholic* StarHalo's Avatar
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    Default Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F

    Quote Originally Posted by synersol View Post
    What do you think of these personnel beacons, www.triagelights.com ?
    What would you do with it?

  12. #72
    *Flashaholic* Burgess's Avatar
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    Default Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F

    to synersol --


    One additional question, if you please . . . .

    Are you *connected* to the Seller/Manufacturer ? ? ?



    I notice yer' CPF Username is suspiciously similar to the Maker of those devices.







    Oh, by the way -- Welcome to CandlePowerForums !


    _

  13. #73

    Default Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F

    Light sticks are use quite often in the construction industry e.g. when concrete companies have a major pour at a project (like the one I was on) thats a mile an a half from the paved road. They'd use then by the dozens to mark the way into and out of the project. These pours would start at 22/23:00 thru 06/08:00.

    So it would be a use to hang one on someone you're trying to keep tabs on in zero to low light conditions.

  14. #74

    Default Re: Emergency/Disaster Situation Lighting

    I think you are looking at the wrong priorities here. In a SAR situation your priority are:

    - Your own safety: ATEX certified lights, so you will not blow your self up near flamable gasses.
    - Lights should be dependable. Crush, water, dustproof. (IP 8 or higher)
    - Lights should have a bright colour, to ease finding.
    - Lights should not roll away, when putting it down.
    - Lights should be big enough and have large buttons/switches so it can be used with gloves.
    - Light batteries should be standarized with your supply chain. (AA, C, D's)

    Lights that comply with these standards are usually the Peli, UK, etc style lights.

    Other things to be aware of: Do not stick a light in your mouth! Use a Headlight or angle light on you clothing.

    Remeber you said you want SAR light. So don't think like a flashoholic. Think practical. You don't need multiple settings from fancy lights. Stop playing with light settings when search, you got beter things to do. Don't get 18650 cells if you every want to depend on supplychain. Keywords are Simple, rugged and practical.

    All you need on a person are:
    - A good headlight/angle light, depening on your clothing/helmet setup.
    - Large handheld flashlight for bright purposes.
    - Smaller flashlight for close up work.

  15. #75
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    Default Re: Emergency/Disaster Situation Lighting

    @ synersol: 4 of your posts (one here, the others elsewhere) have been deleted.

    Shill posts are not acceptable. You need to read the CPF/CPFMP Advertising Policies if you wish to continue posting here.
    Resistance is futile...

  16. #76

    Default Re: Emergency/Disaster Situation Lighting

    Sorry about this, I was just providing information relative to the discussion. You define Shill in the following manner "For the purposes of this policy, a "shill" is defined as "a person who poses as a customer in order to decoy others into participating and/or one who publicizes or praises something or someone for reasons of self-interest or personal profit,".

    1. I never posed as a customer, I just suggested a new product that I happen to use, manufacture, sell and developed. I did not write the case study or paid anyone to do the case study that was mentioned in the response. The case study was from an unrelated third party and the link was not a link to my website. I only posted to contribute new information that may be of interest to the folks who have participated in this topic.

    2. Please specify what I wrote that was not acceptable so that I do not make the same mistake or cause the same misunderstanding again. I would be happy to state I am the "inventor/manufacture" before any post if this would help.

    3. I look forward to continue to be part of this forum. I have found it informative.


  17. #77
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    Default Re: Emergency/Disaster Situation Lighting

    Quote Originally Posted by synersol View Post
    Sorry about this, I was just providing information relative to the discussion.
    Your connection with the manufacturer was unclear - see Burgess's post #72 above.

    You made 8 posts, 4 of which I deleted; they were unsolicited promotional posts, advertising a particular product. It didn't matter at that stage whether you were the manufacturer or someone acting for him; both of these methods of advertising are prohibited by Rule 6.

    Your other four posts were left, as they were made in response to specific enquiries by other members; you were therefore given the benefit of the doubt on these.

    You have now clarified your connection with the company you were promoting; that is fine, but before you proceed with any further posts here, you need to read the CPF/CPFMP Advertising Policies, as I mentioned above.
    Resistance is futile...

  18. #78

    Default Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F

    Basically replace chemical lights and use for any number of different signalling purposes, including low light illumination. Folks are using them for a bunch of outdoor activities from hunting to diving. A really cool article on their sporting applications can be found at the Yakangler website (make sure to scroll down and read the comments). Here is the link:http://www.yakangler.com/articles/ne...496-e/t-lights . Let me know if you would like to know how SWAT and the military are utilizing them.

  19. #79

    Default Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F

    Thanks for the welcome, I am glad I learned about this forum. It seems to be very active and informative. To answer your question I am the inventor and manufacturer of the E/T Lights.

  20. #80

    Default Re: Where to but Quark AA2-T & Zebralight H51F

    Hello AZPops, the use you suggested is one of many uses they could be used for and thanks for the input. They transition from one task to another very easily and are very durable. The military is actually using them as friend or foe identifiers as one of the applications. Turns out these do not wash out your NVG's like other IR beacons in the market.

  21. #81

    Default Re: Emergency/Disaster Situation Lighting

    Thanks for the prompt reply DM51. I went ahead and responded to the comments that followed Burgess's post #72. Thanks for pointing it out. I appreciate you leaving the other posts and am glad to be a member of this forum. I will carefully read the advertising policies and will comply to the rules.

  22. #82

    Default Re: Emergency/Disaster Situation Lighting

    Hello Tjin, thanks for the input and you are correct about the priorities. Luckily the lights meet all of them.

    1. Your Own Safety - Notice that the lights electronics are encapsulated and sealed inside a 66ft water pressure seal.
    2. Dependable, crush, etc.. - They are. They are currently being used in combat and have been subjected to extreme testing by the US Military and several foreign military's. Following is a brief run through of the tests done by a Flashlight Enthusiast and expert. (Dropped it hundreds of times, placed it in a washing machine for 45 minutes, placed it in a drying machine for over 30 minutes, froze it in a freezer, then froze it in dry ice (down to -109F), then dropped it and waited for it to turn back on, then placed it in boiling water, attached it to the bumper and drove with it bouncing around for 1 km. Finally lost the light. I sent a second one for testing and all the tests were repeated plus tested the magnetic end cap and it stayed when placed on the hood of the car or on the side window panel of the car. Further the light was then taken to the Ocean down to 30 meters for 30 minutes, 20 meters for 30 minutes and 18 meters for 45 minutes with no issues. The user then placed them in a running stream for 3 days and they still functioned properly. At the end decided to run them over on grass and the lights survived. He then ran over them on concrete and he broke the light but then proceeded to use a piece of foil paper and brought two of four LED's back on for days.
    3. Bright colors - There are four bright colors in each device. The Yakangler article I mentioned in another post confirms 3/4 of a mile visibility. Bright enough for medics and support to find you but not bright enough to give away a units position from a great distance or wash out your NVG's.
    4. Lights should not roll away- That is why there is an optional cross bottomed magnetic end cap. Basically you can do the following, Stand them for expedited landing zones, throw/drop them and they will stay in the throw/drop area because of the cross bottom(it stops it from rolling), you can clip them if desired and you can magnetically attach them for clear roomed indicators to door hinges, switch plates, etc...
    5. Use with gloves - that was one of the requirements given by the JSOC unit I developed the lights for. that is the reason for the notch above the switch area. You can easily find it and access all light functions, even blind while wearing standard flight gloves.
    6. Batteries - The CR2 is part of the supply chain. In fact it was selected by the military unit who the lights were originally designed for.

    Regarding the comment about thinking practical. I agree and that is one of the reasons this light was created. Why carry four or more bags of different colored chemical lights. With these lights you reduce the chemical light stick budget by over 90%, you reduce weight and volume carried by the responder by over 60%, when using lights for triage you reduce patient collection times by over 30% and reduce patient collection errors from 4 errors down to 1 error. You have a single tool that has many varied applications and uses. Some Sheriffs down in South Texas use to send rescue teams after rescue teams when responding to calls in ranches (they get lost). Now they throw the lights along the ranch road and everyone else follows. The "keep it simple and practical" statement is the reason we have so many versions. If you want only IR with two clicks you have that option, if you want simply R/Y/G/B with no flashes you have that option, if you want to have 15 different flash/color settings you can do that also but with a different version.

    I look forward to hearing from you soon and thanks for taking the time to contribute.

  23. #83

    Default Re: Emergency/Disaster Situation Lighting

    I was not actually talking about a particulair light, but about a SAR light in general. Not a 'combat' light.

    1. Waterproof does not equal a ATEX certification. ATEX certification does usually indirectly means waterproof.
    3. With bright coloured, i mean the body. Putting down a flashlight on a heap or dibris and finding it back.
    5. Heavy duty working gloves are not like combat gloves. i do mean BIG buttons/switches. Most lights are not easily operated with heavy duty working gloves/ fire fighting gloves.
    6. In SAR conditions CR2, seams to me like a awfull choice to me.

  24. #84

    Default Re: Emergency/Disaster Situation Lighting

    Good stuff!!

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