I'm a park ranger in New Hampshire who does mountain SAR and on vacations I climb in alpine situations, including the Andes, the Alaska Range, and Everest. For route-finding on crevassed glaciers- where you never know if you're going to punch through, a good light can come in handy. However, I must say, I used to use a Petzl Tikka with three old LEDs and they probably gave out 30-50 Lumens, and once I even forgot to turn it off- and when I went to pick up my helmet it was on- but we were harnessing up and I tossed in extra batts and believe it or not it suffice for routefinding in glaciated terrain. On Everest a few years ago everyone seemed to have Tikkas and they worked fine.
I use the PT Apex Pro- but thinking seriously about new Black Diamond Icon- 200 Lumens- as an alternative to the PT Apex Pro. Also coming this Spring is a Petzl with auto-adjust brightness to extend battery life and allow you to read a map and then look up, then back, without blinding yourself. These will both probably serve you well- they were designed for alpine climbers. Lately I carry a BD Storm as backup, and a Tikka as a 2nd backup. As for the more esoteric lights that people on this forum use, SPARK, Zebralight, I don't know how well they hold up in bad conditions- but Black Diamond is at least tested by alpine climbers. Use Lithiums in sub-zero temps. You also may want to consider something that takes batts that are available in Jackson Hole or Quito or Kathmandu. That's usually BD or PT or Petzl. Petzl is used by mountain SAR , Urban SAR, and Cavers, which says something about their durability I suppose.
As for the suggestion that you have a hand-held- light CR123's are light enough, and compatible with the Apex Pro, that even if they're hard to find elsewhere you can carry a box of them to the Himalayas and you won't have to worry about running out of batts- also they're lithium so once again good at subzero temps. Any of the 2 x CR123 units with throw that are recommended by people here would work. The only thing is I have frankly never used a handheld in a climbing situation- my hands are usually preoccupied with my ice tools, the rope, placing gear, or even trekking poles. (If you're using CR123 batts anyway, consider the Surefire Minimus.)
As a park ranger in a small state (NH) where you're never far from a charger, I have the luxury of recharging, so I use the Petzl Ultra- but that's because I'm never more than one night out on a search or rescue. By the way, the so-called-SAR lights advertised here- ultra high throw lights- seem to be next to useless for finding people in the mountains in NH. There's too much scrub or trees to penetrate. Sometimes we will use the penetrator (on a siren) to try to attract lost people, but light gets blocked pretty quickly by vegetation, esp in the summer. It's amazing what you can see from a Blackhawk with FLIR at night- in a wilderness situation a cell phone light is better than a bright light if you want to be found, and it doesn't blind the pilot. I'd be curious if others who do SAR actually find these very cool, (but heavy) long throw lights useful. I use them for LE when I'm not on patrol in the mountains- to blind someone who looks like they are going to be a problem-usually drunk and rowdy campers- but not for SAR.