Limited Edition (RUN SOLD OUT): solid copper Alpha (or two tone w/ alu body)

[archer6817j]

Hi folks, I had someone request a custom with a copper head and raw body. I have enough material to make about 10. Any interest? Body decoration can be customized to your preference because these will be raw (unplated) lights. This is a massive chunk of copper and weighs a ton. Be sure to wear a belt.

These are mechanically the same as my regular Alphas and will have the Boom reflector. I have a FEW TIRs compatible only with the 5700K XML. These should be about 7700 lux @ 1m (vs 4400 for the boom reflector). Beam angle is 5 degrees FWHM (10 degrees total width).

This is a special run of 10 lights. Each light will be stamped with a number from 0-9. #0 is already spoken for.









LED choices:

1. MCE - 6000K N-Bin (add $10), 5700K M-bin, 4000K K-bin
2. XML - 6000K U2, 5700K T6, 5000K T5
3. XPG - High CRI 3000K (1.4A driver and 160 lumens)

Pricing:

1. Titanium Pocket Clip: FREE
2. FULL COPPER light (solid copper head + copper body + copper TC) $400
3. grooved/fluted head (to your specification): Add $50.00 (unless you want something really crazy that might take a lot of time)
4. 3 tritium vials (any color that B@rt has available) installed in pockets on the sides of the head or tailcap: $50 (this includes machining the pockets, the cost of the trits, and the installation) If you want more than three let me know. I won't order the trits until you purchase the light so this isn't going to be a rush job. Obviously I'd like to place one bulk order (instead of shipping 3 trits at a time) so sign up sooner to avoid shipping delays. If you want your light NOW I can order trits for your light only but you will have to pay the international shipping.

Ordering:

These lights are for sale on my site but please email me if you want any special machining or other special requests.

[archer6817j]

All prices include a Ti pocket clip, flamed or natural, your choice.

Any interest? Comments welcome as well!

[archer6817j]

No interest? What if it was ALL copper...?

[GLOCK18]

Whats the price point for all copper body and head.?

[archer6817j]

Whats the price point for all copper body and head.?

Good question Probably add $50 to what is already posted for pricing. I'll have to special order the material for the body and tailcap. I realize that's starting to be a lot of money but there will only be 10 pcs made, you can customize the appearance, and copper is positively miserable to machine...so there ya go

It's going to be ridiculously heavy in full copper...but that's a good thing right?

[easilyled]

Have you thought about doing a matching Copper tail-cap and keeping the body Aluminium?
How easy is it to knurl a band on the copper head to match the knurling on the Al body?
I'd be interested in this combination with the 3 trit option and an XM-L with 5-degree tir-optic.

[archer6817j]

Have you thought about doing a matching Copper tail-cap and keeping the body Aluminium?
How easy is it to knurl a band on the copper head to match the knurling on the Al body?
I'd be interested in this combination with the 3 trit option and an XM-L with 5-degree tir-optic.

That might look great Let's call the copper tailcap $20 extra (as opposed to $50 for the whole body and TC).

As far as knurling on the head, would you want the band the same width as on the body and then flanked by the wide grooves? Shouldn't be "too" hard

Where would you want the trits located? I still need to write a program to cut the trit slots so I'll get to work on that

[easilyled]

That might look great Let's call the copper tailcap $20 extra (as opposed to $50 for the whole body and TC).

As far as knurling on the head, would you want the band the same width as on the body and then flanked by the wide grooves? Shouldn't be "too" hard

Where would you want the trits located? I still need to write a program to cut the trit slots so I'll get to work on that

EDIT: I've been giving this a lot of thought but have decided that I'd prefer an all Copper light. Sorry to change my mind.

If its easy to knurl copper nicely, then I'd like some bands of knurling on the body and head delineated by grooves on either side of the knurling. If not, then some other patterning such as grooving on the body and grooving and fluting on the head.

I'd like 3 yellow trits circumferentially around the end of the tail if possible and prefer tail-standing capability.

Regarding the emitter, I'd prefer the U2-bin 6000K XM-L with the 5-degree TIR optic.

I'm on vacation for a week from this Saturday (22nd Oct) and probably won't have Internet access.
So, perhaps I could reserve a spot for the above and then settle up with you on my return?

[archer6817j]

EDIT: I've been giving this a lot of thought but have decided that I'd prefer an all Copper light. Sorry to change my mind.

If its easy to knurl copper nicely, then I'd like some bands of knurling on the body and head delineated by grooves on either side of the knurling. If not, then some other patterning such as grooving on the body and grooving and fluting on the head.

I'd like 3 yellow trits circumferentially around the end of the tail if possible and prefer tail-standing capability.

Regarding the emitter, I'd prefer the U2-bin 6000K XM-L with the 5-degree TIR optic.

I'm on vacation for a week from this Saturday (22nd Oct) and probably won't have Internet access.
So, perhaps I could reserve a spot for the above and then settle up with you on my return?

This is going to be awesome!

I'll have to check and make sure I can knurl both diameters evenly...sometimes a knurl doesn't like a particular diameter. Also, I plan to make the knurls fairly shallow so it won't destroy your pocket. Is that okay? The full depth knurls are crazy aggressive and will also be very prone to damage since the copper is so soft.

Just ordered copper tube stock for the body and I'll get the trits on order. I have almost every other color in stock (green, ice blue, white, orange)

I can't guarantee the TIR will work with the U2 XMLs I have. The optics match my T6 5700K XMLs that are on slightly thinner boards than the U2 (1.6mm vs 2.0mm). I'll experiment with a U2 and see if I can figure out how to make it fit (before I build the light). Is it a deal-breaker if I can't get the U2 to fit?

[easilyled]

This is going to be awesome!

I'll have to check and make sure I can knurl both diameters evenly...sometimes a knurl doesn't like a particular diameter. Also, I plan to make the knurls fairly shallow so it won't destroy your pocket. Is that okay? The full depth knurls are crazy aggressive and will also be very prone to damage since the copper is so soft.

Just ordered copper tube stock for the body and I'll get the trits on order. I have almost every other color in stock (green, ice blue, white, orange)

I can't guarantee the TIR will work with the U2 XMLs I have. The optics match my T6 5700K XMLs that are on slightly thinner boards than the U2 (1.6mm vs 2.0mm). I'll experiment with a U2 and see if I can figure out how to make it fit (before I build the light). Is it a deal-breaker if I can't get the U2 to fit?

Thanks very much for being so obliging.

If you haven't already ordered the yellow trits, then ice-blue trits will be great and just as nice.

I'm having second thoughts about the knurling because copper is soft (as you point out) and I'm not sure that the knurling won't scratch up, or wear with time for this reason.

An alternative would be to machine bands of fine checkering instead (delineated by grooves). Is that possible?

I'd certainly be happy with T6 5700K XMLs, if the U2 XMLs are awkward.

I take it that the optics also don't match the T5 5000K XML boards? (these would be my second preference after the U2s)

[aflashinthenight]

would the copper head fit the Alpha I just purchased? And would you sell a head alone?
TIR optics with XML T5 5000K? but as easyled I would take the T6 ..
How much would you charge for that?

[archer6817j]

Thanks very much for being so obliging.

If you haven't already ordered the yellow trits, then ice-blue trits will be great and just as nice.

I'm having second thoughts about the knurling because copper is soft (as you point out) and I'm not sure that the knurling won't scratch up, or wear with time for this reason.

An alternative would be to machine bands of fine checkering instead (delineated by grooves). Is that possible?

I'd certainly be happy with T6 5700K XMLs, if the U2 XMLs are awkward.

I take it that the optics also don't match the T5 5000K XML boards? (these would be my second preference after the U2s)

I'll double check and make sure I still have three ice blue. I also think knurling will be fine (in terms of wear) if the knurling is fairly light...pretty typical for most lights really. Also, the TIR tends to make a weird square shaped spill. I've sold several and people don't seem to mind it though.

@ aflashinthenight: yes, the copper heads are identical in size to the standard heads. A head would be 2/3 of the full price...so about $200. I'll get back to you guys on if I can make the TIR work with my thicker MCPCBs. I know I can make it fit with a custom optics holder but I'm not sure how it will affect the beam.

[easilyled]

I'll double check and make sure I still have three ice blue. I also think knurling will be fine (in terms of wear) if the knurling is fairly light...pretty typical for most lights really. Also, the TIR tends to make a weird square shaped spill. I've sold several and people don't seem to mind it though.

PM sent.

[fabienne]

Is there any option for the coating / finishing for the full copper body ? I take it since it's full copper body, then it wouldn't have any tail-lock-out feature then ?

[archer6817j]

Is there any option for the coating / finishing for the full copper body ? I take it since it's full copper body, then it wouldn't have any tail-lock-out feature then ?

Are you interested in a particular finish or coating? Generally people like the copper raw but I do plan to "brush" the lights unless you prefer something different. I'll also provide a pad of scotchbrite if you ever want to "tune up" the finish.

None of my lights have lockout but the button is recessed to prevent accidental activation and allow for tail-standing.

[fabienne]

Being soft material, is there anyway copper can be hard-anodized or cerakoted ?

[archer6817j]

Being soft material, is there anyway copper can be hard-anodized or cerakoted ?

Only aluminum can be anodized. Copper can be nickel plated like the rest of my lights. They also have to be nickel plated before cerakote. Although I'm not sure why you would coat a copper light; then it would look exactly like my aluminum lights

I should also say that coating a very soft material won't really protect it because it is still soft underneath. It will probably look worse over time. Think of a soft boiled egg

Of course if you are set on having one nickel plated and cerakoted that can be done. It will add between $55 and $100 though.

[archer6817j]

Hey all, so since this is moving so slowly I've decided to list this on my website instead of keeping it an exclusive CPF deal. Hope you understand

Remember, this run is limited to 10 pcs (stamped 0-9) and I machine the head and body to your specification! (within reason) Who else does that? I must be nuts!

[archer6817j]

Thought I'd post a shot of a "one-off" copper light I just finished

[helios123]

that looks REALLY SWEET!

[easilyled]

Wow! The light pictured in post #19 is drop-dead gorgeous. Magnificent work.

[GLOCK18]

WOW that light in post 19 is really nice, is that a 18650 battery design, are you going to make more like that one.

[archer6817j]

WOW that light in post 19 is really nice, is that a 18650 battery design, are you going to make more like that one.

#19 is a one-off custom. PM me if you are interested

It's the exact same size as the other Alphas (18650)

Otherwise, I have 8 solid copper lights available from the limited edition run (see the original post for photos)

[Chauncey Gardiner]

Thought I'd post a shot of a "one-off" copper light I just finished

I wanted to view these pictures together, didn't think anyone would mind. I believe the second two were taken by easilyled, the proud owner.

[easilyled]

I wanted to view these pictures together, didn't think anyone would mind. I believe the second two were taken by easilyled, the proud owner.

Yes, indeed, I took the second two and hope that I managed to do some justice to this beautiful light.

Jason, you did a magnificent job and I'm very grateful. Many thanks.

[supersneeze]

Does anyone have any pics of there copper light aged a bit?

[Silgt]

How easy or difficult is it to maintain a copper light, especially if it is lightly knurled and brilliant polished? I understand the material will get a unique patina over time but gosh, this is sweet and I would like to keep it this way for as long as possible...

[easilyled]

How easy or difficult is it to maintain a copper light, especially if it is lightly knurled and brilliant polished? I understand the material will get a unique patina over time but gosh, this is sweet and I would like to keep it this way for as long as possible...

I agree with you. I'm trying to maintain the shine.

Its not difficult at all. I just keep on top of it by giving it a quick going over with a dab of metal polish every 1-2 weeks when I see tiny spots forming. (takes about a minute)

[Chauncey Gardiner]

Same here. If I was fortunate enough to own a Maratac Cu and the Alpha Cu, I would polish the Alpha as often as needed to keep it brilliant, but the Maratac, which L@@Ks great new, I'ld let tarnish to the beautiful patina seen in this picture of member Sparky's Magic eight month old one.
I don't know why I'd polish one but not the other......Perhaps if I had two Alpha's, I'd let one tarnish and the other I'd only touch while wearing those little white gloves.

~ Chance



Here is a new edition owned by member mhphoto.

[archer6817j]

Does anyone have any pics of there copper light aged a bit?

The very first pic of the two-tone light has some minor tarnish. I actually have one that I've been holding for a friend that is quite tarnished, but not polished by carry. I'll try and remember to take a photo.

Also, I've started shipping the copper lights with a few squares of abrasive pad and a wad of Nevrdull so you can maintain the appearance. Of course the abrasive pad is only good if you have a brushed finish. The Nevrdull is amazing though. I used to use it for polishing print making plates. It's a cotton wadding loaded with some sort of "magic stuff" that literally just wipes the tarnish off and the copper looks brand new. Maybe I'll do a before and after on my buddy's light

If anyone has purchased a copper light and wants a little packet of Nevrdull I'll send you one. Of course you can buy an entire tin (lifetime supply) for about $10 including shipping. I just finished a tin I've had for about 10 years and it's still working fine. I bought two new ones for customer lights though