6000 lumen video light set up

Twin heads. Triple XML's,HallSW,8x AMC7135 drivers, thermal protection, E/O style cables.


Just need to add rotating ring and magnet for the switch

Looks good, but does it shine? I knew of a guy who was interested in buying this style awhile back.

Have not really given it a good run yet. Judging on my similar 2 x SST-50 single light It think this will shine plenty.

nice clean build, how are you planning on mounting them ?

That looks cool

I have built them for someone else.

Personally I'd just cable tie them to some strobe arms but I think he has something else in mind.

Hi Packhorse, what would a pair of these cost me?,
You can reach me at gruvdykarnatgmaildotcom if you prefer.

email sent.

What kind of beam pattern are you getting out of such a configuration?

How thick was the acrylic tube, and what depth have you tested them to?

Unsure of beam angle. The light exits the LED at 130 odd degrees before if drops below 50% max intensity but this may change due to the curved internal wall of the acrylic and the fact that the outside curved wall is in contact with water which changes the refractive properties.
The following video was made with a single twin SST-50 version and a G11 camera. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6w9N_SD_C4s&feature=g-all-u&context=G26b7cfeFAAAAAAAAAAA

Acrylic is 3mm thick untested to depth. While that is pretty thin compared to most dive lights flat front lens I dont believe its a 1:1 comparison since its a tube and a very strong shape since its compressed by all angles at the same pressure. Look how thin a steel dive cylinder is. A flat steel plate the same size rolled out flat wouldnt handle anywhere near 3000 psi.

Packhorse said:

Unsure of beam angle. The light exits the LED at 130 odd degrees before if drops below 50% max intensity but this may change due to the curved internal wall of the acrylic and the fact that the outside curved wall is in contact with water which changes the refractive properties.
The following video was made with a single twin SST-50 version and a G11 camera. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6w9N_SD_C4s&feature=g-all-u&context=G26b7cfeFAAAAAAAAAAA

Acrylic is 3mm thick untested to depth. While that is pretty thin compared to most dive lights flat front lens I dont believe its a 1:1 comparison since its a tube and a very strong shape since its compressed by all angles at the same pressure. Look how thin a steel dive cylinder is. A flat steel plate the same size rolled out flat wouldnt handle anywhere near 3000 psi.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. Look s like you're getting a pretty even beam off them too, though lens on the G11 isn't widest so that might be a consideration. I agree in that 3mm round is very different to 3mm flat.

I'm thinking about following a similar pattern but incorporating it into a camera strobe arm (with 1" balls on each end). It'd be an interesting concept I think, but I'm not sure the form factor constraints would be worth the hassle.

These attach to an existing arm with ease.

I'm trying to get rid of the battery canisters, so thought about merging them into the strobe arms. Was also trying to figure out a way to get more positive buoyancy into the rig without causing additional bulk.

The more I think about it, the idea doesn't seem practical.

Hi Guys,

I'm new to the forum and this is my first post. I'm interested in building a pair of these video lights as a project and to save some money. I've been searching this forum and the net for various options and think that this is my best and most suitable option. I am a machinist by trade so making the parts is no problem............however, electronics (LED's, Drivers etc) - no idea. I do have a good knowledge of battery technologies and soldering etc.

I am currently using a GoPro Hero 3 Black with twin Intova iMini LED lights (53* beam angle). The lights work OK but I'd like a wider beam angle - especially when close to the subject.

Is anyone willing to offer their opinion as to whether these lights would go well with my GoPro? Also some specifics about the Triple XML's and HallSW and how to wire up the system would be appreciated. I assume that as these lights are being driven at 7.4volts that 2S Li-on cells are being used? I hope I'm not asking too much.

Thanks Boagy

Definitely not asking too much. We love to answer questions and help others, as long as you aren't asking the same questions that were answered to the last one... But you aren't.

You will want a driver, as that controls the current to the LEDs. He mentioned an 8x AMC7135 (350mA each, a number you will quickly get to know) which gives 2800 mA, or 2.8A. Since an XM-L is rated at 3A, I assume he's running them in series, using a special circuit to run at higher than the normal allowable voltage for '7135s. That would mean at least 3x 3.35V = 10.05V input, so probably 3S (11.1V) LiIon pack, or 10S (12V) NiMH pack.


If you want to use 7135 drivers someone will post the link to how to wire them for higher voltage. I don't have it at my fingertips.

Thanks for the help DIWdiver. It would be great if someone could post the link. I'm assuming that HallSW refers to a Hall sensor switch and that the rotating ring and magnet (assuming it is mounted on the end) are to operate the switch. Is there any info on how to 'wire up' this type of switch and is it possible to have high/low as well as on/off with this setup?

Would there be any advantage in running at a higher voltage e.g 5S LiIon pack (18.5V)? I recall reading somewhere that there were advantages at higher voltages.

Thanks

HallSW is a small board from Taskled.com that is easy to use. just solder the battery contacts and driver contacts to the board and you're in business. wiring info is on the website.

Johan

Thanks for the input jspeybro. I'm starting to get my head around this project. The mechanics of it is not hard.....its just the electronics that is more difficult for me. The forum content is massive. I've had a search but can't find a link on how to wire up AMC7135 drivers for higher voltage as DIWdiver suggests. Anyone able to post the link? Also, it looks fairly simple to rig up a Hall effect switch for on/off, but how would one go about rigging up a switch for on/off as well as high/low? Is this possible with a Hall effect switch or does it require something like a piezo switch?

Boagy

Here's the link. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?220768-AMC7135-s-in-series&highlight=7135+series

But the Hallsw needs to go in the black line above where the Mag Sw is shown in the diagram.

I've looked at this, and I think it's a bit of a stretch to run it this way. I would do this ONLY if the driver were wired hard on, meaning when you apply power, it's on. No modes, no dimming, etc. If you apply power and turn the driver off, you're likely to over-voltage the driver and destroy it. You could protect the driver by adding a 6V zener diode across the battery input terminals. This would mean that if you turn the driver off, or if it has modes with dimming or flashing, the bottom two LEDs in the diagram will probably never turn completely off. The only way to turn them completely off would be to turn the switch off. So I would consider this for a single-mode light only. Also, I wouldn't use it with low-voltage (less than 3.2V) LEDs like Philips. And only with a battery with a max voltage at full charge of no more than 12.6V, which means a 3S LiIon is okay, but a 10S NiMH is not.

I appreciate the advice DIWdiver - thanks. Mmmmm, just wondering now whether this is the way to go. I like the physical setup of these lights as I can make them easily and the output (3000 lumens each) seems to be right. I'm going to need the option of have a dimmer light output as well as full power so I don't overpower close subjects. In other words, a high & a low setting as well as on/off.

I would like the light to be able to run at full power for at least 40 minutes (50min - 1 hour would be ideal). I can see no problems making the cannister and I'd prefer to run LiIon cells (LiFePO4 is also possibility). Its just a matter of deciding on what cells and how many (voltage). I was advised off forum to feed to a power source over 12V.

DIWdiver (or anyone else who is willing), are you able to suggest a more appropriate driver setup and switching that I could use in this head setup that would suit my needs?

Boagy