it would look better with a flush LED.
it would look better with a flush LED.
Last edited by Light11; 10-30-2011 at 03:30 PM.
I prefer flush, but would buy either. I hate to say it, but I don't care for the MBI on the button. If I bought one of these I would wear it daily around my neck, along with my crucifix, and would like a plain, clean, neutral design, or at the most my initials or even a cross design (two-fer one there). I totally understand and respect you having the MBI on there though, just throwing out my thoughts.
I would agree the flush LED and the blank button are more aesthetically pleasing.
Can you please slow down a bit with the new light concepts? I can only work so much overtime in a given period.
Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds.
-- Albert Einstein
With the right LED, I think beam pattern and output should be mostly the same.
For the record, flushed is my preference too, was just showing a quick custom version.
I wish I could send everyone 2 each just so you could compare.
The only functional advantage of slightly protruding, is that If/when we can add a circuit, slightly protruding is far more visible and could easily double as a "see me" kind of light (in flashing mode) but we can cross that bridge when we get to the circuit version.
Re: Switch on the side, its possible but not sure if would be a good thing for waterproofing, or the look?
though it does provide the extra advantage of no accidental on if you were to keep one in your wallet.
The current button is very flush with the body and rather firm.
I've not had any accidental "on" happen but I could imagine it's possible if you sit on your wallet,
though I would not recommend that.
Based on the protos I'd say very little chance of accidental on in keychain/neckchain use.
If its a necessity to have it, very happy to consider it but perhaps version 2 in combination with the circuit?
So does this mean you prefer a flush LED ?
Flush it is!
I appreciate the kindly worded feedback.
Understood! I wouldn't expect you to have my personal monogram on your shirt either (unlike that Ralph guy).
If the MBI was small enough to fit on the 3.5mm side (though seems unlikely) and not obvious, then, would you find it ok?
Everyone one else, please dont worry about offending me, I'm really happy to have your honest feedback.
Yes, I should be careful not to overwork you guys
Here's an idea:
Earlier, you had mentioned perhaps using two CR2016 cells, to get 6 volts.
You stated this would drive the LED very bright.
Yes, indeed, it certainly Would be bright !
PLUS -- it would give people like ME the opportunity to use a single CR2032 cell, instead.
I already know (from converting numerous Photons and Fauxtons),
that a single CR2032 battery driving a 5mm LED gives PLENTY of light !
( for MY purposes. Your mileage may vary )
We would LOVE having that Flexibility with this cool little beauty.
As you may have noticed, some of us prefer Lower Light Levels.
Just a thought.
I've submitted a revised design, and approved up to 1 or 2mm longer/wider (but not thicker) to accept either 2x CR2012 or 1x CR2025, as the standard and it "should" pending test accept 1x CR2016, 1x CR2032, 2x CR2016
The CR 2016,2025,2032 were all available at the 7/11 I stopped by this evening so they must be widely available.
The main challenge now is finding a decent led (that is flat).
The one used in the manufactured proto are not too bright & pure flood (not focused at all).
The ones I filed down from 5mm leds still keep their lens/focus, are bright and work well but I don't want to be custom filing hundreds of leds, I'd much rather find a bright, high mcd, flat led.
(If anybody knows a good source for those, please let do me know).
I've tried a small cree which is bright, but will need extra housing & custom tiny reflector/lens, so I'll have to hold that led choice for a future version.
Updated the internal layout a little to improve space usage as well as implemented the slightly angled hole, and some other fine tuning (so its easier to open).
One thing I noticed is that even with the straight (squarish) hole in the proto, it seems to hang straight, even when the chain is positioned to the left or right.
+1 more on flat/flush LED
+1 on accepting different batteries
I would prefer if the MBI name was VERY discrete and would not mind if it was not there at all, since this definitely fits more the looks of a piece of jewelery. (I'll show off the MBI on my torpedo proudly to make up for it )
Could the button cover be exchangeable or modifiable? by the user? It would be a very practical way to personnalise the Ti
Plus one on Flush.
Why not make it a mule type of design which will be 100% all flood.
No matter what you make, sign me up for 1 at least.
Surefire 6P with Malkoff M60 simple, bright, efficient.
Flush would limit the abuse the LED might incur in pockets if this beauty does go into someone pocket.
Its possible the button could be replaceable. Not exactly sure what you mean by modifiable though (something different to just changing the button?)
Blank should be a possible option.
Thanks so much for the feedback and interest.
100% flood is the easiest thing to do in terms of led choice, but so far in my tests,
when the lumen output is low, pure flood seems useful/practical in dark situations with little/no ambient light.
Not quite enough to find something on the floor of the car unless you hold the Core Ti near the floor.
Though it will depend on final lumen output, so far I've found with even a modestly focused beam, it's a little more practical as an all purpose type of light.
6200k @ 80CRI: http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/O...otfSEQKQ%3d%3d
5600k @ 80CRI: http://search.digikey.com/ca/en/products/LW Y87C-T1U1-3C5D/475-1055-2-ND/565007
At 1.25 lumens, I don't think they're exactly what you're looking for though.
I was looking at some of the Osram SMD's yesterday (similar size to the above but much brighter, and also the Oslon SX) but the datasheet's are not very useful at <50ma, so the only way to be sure is to get some sample's and test.
In terms of waterproofing though, I think a through-hole (standard 5mm type led) will make it easier to achieve that.
Battery/Led choice and size implications....
Please give me your feedback
In order to use a CR20xx series of battery (eg. CR2012,2016,2025,2032)
we will need to adjust the dimensions slightly...
Now: width 22mm, length 32mm
Proposed: width 24mm, length 35mm
Can you let me know this is ok for everyone?
Thickness will be the same.
If we use a CR16xx series battery, we can keep the current size,
but the CR20xx are much more widely available and provide the option for more brightness without needing more thickness.
A) eg. 2x CR2012 = 2.4mm
B) eg. 2x CR1616 = 3.2mm
With A) we can keep the thickness around 3.5mm~3.6mm (definitely under 4mm)
With B) we would be at roughly 4mm~4.5mm
The current prototype (in the photos) uses 1x CR1616 and is about 3.6mm (with internal room to spare)
CR20xx gets my vote
I agree with the 20xx these batteries are available everywhere and I have a Petzl emergency headlamp that uses 2032 I believe.
Have you seen this thread? http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...w-much-current someone there tested a couple of button cells and they performed poorly with fairly low current, how much current is your led going to be drawing?
I cannot pretend to feel impartial about tint colours. I rejoice with the brilliant ones and am genuinely sorry for the poor browns.
~Sir Winston Churchill
I like multiple battery options. I prefer 20XX, the width and length difference are negligible and I can get those virtually anywhere.
Could we stilll put just one 20XX or one 16XX with this configuration?
That's a lot of possibilities! I have lights for which I need a reminder card on how to program or the runtimes... Never had one for which I need a reminder card on all the batteries it can take! Me Likes!