Sure, there are some in this thread pg 13.
Sure, there are some in this thread pg 13.
I tested various SST-90, SST-50, XM-L, with and without DOME.
Lux will increase 25%~~
Lumens drop 30~40%
For me personally the drop in lumens is just not worth it.
The VaraPower Turbo is my next light. Lamdalights is just very busy but hopefully next month I can have my own.
I am getting a special one made. Mine will be 16A or so. This is possible due to copper to LED bonding. I have an XR-E R2 EZ1000 pill with LED to copper bonding at 12 watts it stays nice and pure white tint. Yes, 12~13 watts out of XR-E R2 Lamdalights helped with bonding them.
Last edited by bigchelis; 02-10-2012 at 07:53 AM.
Surefire 6P with Malkoff M60 simple, bright, efficient.
I think my aim on the CW Hydra was a bit different than that on the NW one. The optics are more efficient at gathering the light. I've got a few other optics that I can test, medium and wider beam. But to my eyes the CW lights always appear less bright or more sterile feeling, but it comes down to personal preference, maybe genetics or something.
I'd too like to see the VPT vs a TK70 and have thought about buying one. But as nice as it is, I think it'd be a let down. I believe the TK-70 a bit longer than the SR-90 at 15.9" v 13". If your carrying something the size and length of a cow femur, you'd expect it to be bright. For instance, the SR-90 is a really bright light, that is, iff you've not seen a VPT first. But the numbers say it all, basically the same lux as an SR-90 but with 7-800 or so more lumens. With a 3" v 4" reflector means more spill as well. I do have a Xtar D31 which is a 3MCE set up and does have some throw that I could get a distance shot maybe similar to a tk70.
Here is a shot beamshot I did of the D31. I know it's more flood but it'd be the most similar thing that I would have at this time.
Here is the animated SR90 and VPT .gif; barn is at 1038'
If it's not too cold this weekend I'd like to take a few of the big lights out and take some pictures. Forecast was saying -20°F wind chill, least the LEDs will be overheating and keep my hands warm.
I've got to say that this is one of those lights that you turn on and you wonder what cars half a mile away must be thinking when you are lighting up a field or the sky. This light is the king of LEDs though. I've got 7 other LED lights that would classify as 2000 OTF and it's no contest. In person the difference is more than you can see above because the spill extends further than you can tell. But this is the only light I've ever seen that really is comparable to HID.
Last edited by Fresh Light; 02-10-2012 at 02:41 PM.
+1 to what JudasD said...
Also when you have a 'stock' VPT, how is the heat on high in normal mild temps? And what about the custom one your having built?
I love overkill, but its kinda a bummer if you can only blast away for a couple minutes at a time.....
I am also curious why there is the desire to use either 4C or 3D batteries and not just 4D batteries? the VPT sounds awesome. Just with there was a little more info about it. I realize it is a custom build, but getting information via secret-handshake is sort of a bummer.
Ok, quick dedoming is simply removing the hard lens that is attached to power LEDs. It takes care though not to damage the substrate or bonding wires. Anyways 4c cells are used in a 3d size M@G simply for convenience and portability over a 4D size. The 4D would provide the potential for a more Amps, but these lights are pushed pretty much to the max as they are. What info/secret handshake are you looking for? Like a link? Here you are, Kevin is excellent to work with http://www.lambdalights.com/index.html
As far as color temps, I love the 4500k, but it in not available in the higher flux bins that the 5700 and 6500k ones are. The 6500 will provide higher lumen output and lux as mechanically measured, but from my experience the 5700 will appear brighter. So until Luminous comes out with their higher CRI SST90 and makes it available the 5700 is my personal preference.
I'm blown away at how well the VPT did against the SR90. Looks to me that it beats it despite being much smaller which is very hard to do. Seems I will have to amend a recent post. Good job Lamda.
Last edited by Fresh Light; 02-11-2012 at 03:14 PM.
There were 3 VPTs available, I know they are hard to get
I would really love to see some beamshots of VPT domed 6,500 vs. VPT dedomed 6,500 vs. TK70. That would be awesome! I only ask for TK70 since that is the brightest light that i own and would love to see a VPT compared against it so i can see bright the VPT actually is.
While I am really happy that Olight and Fenix have produced industry leading output lights, but the lights that I've purchases from domestic manufacturers have been by far more impressive. Compare the Olight pic above with a large brass heat sink to the huge, 6.2oz, heat sink on the VaraPower lights. The production VPT had to cut down the Cu heat sink a small amount but was made up and more by the large Al finned connector. The VaraPower lights have over 30 levels so they can be used where super low light is desired and no strobe to skip over or think about, SR90 makes it available by double clicking but I consider it an unnecessary annoyance. But my opinion is that this is the most significant LED light that I have yet to see, it is really that good.
Last edited by Fresh Light; 02-14-2012 at 11:28 AM.
Last edited by BLUE LED; 02-18-2012 at 12:46 PM.
200k lux, that is amazing, do you have any other lights for comparison with your meter? What is the Amps? You'll have to get a beamshot at the longest distance you can find! I think it's funny people ask about the runtime on high. Really it's prob just 3 to 4 min before it's going to get too hot to hold. But i don't think i've ever had it at high more than just a min or so at a time. Thanks
BTW I do have the 75mm DX glass aspheric and it is a bit thicker than the one that I have that Saab made for the DEFT. The glass one does work and could be good but the DEFT lens and spacer ring gave a significantly tighter brighter spot.
So can you just simply screw on the DEFT lens/head onto the VPT light?
I just stumbled onto this thread and WOW! What a hell of a light! I've been wanting a SR90 but after seeing the VPT... this is the one I want! I plan on ordering one now, but have a few questions...
I get the dedoming deal, more lux but less lumens, but I don't really understand what the pros/cons are. Is it brighter? throw further? etc. I guess I've always been a little confused on what lux vs lumens really means.
For you were once darkness, but now you are light in the Lord. Live as children of light (Ephesians 5:8 NIV)
VPT vs TK70
VPT vs SR92
Domed vs de-domed
How long can you have it on at its highest output?
Kind of crazy I went from never wanting a lighter larger than my TK35 to saying "you know, I can make something like this work" just because it appears to be so insanely bright.
I am partial to the warmer tints, 4500k is great, but since it to my knowledge is not available in a N or P flux bin, I go with the 5700 since it is, along with the 6500k. The 6500 does put out higher lumens and that is great for some people but I think a hundred or two lumens out of more than 2000 is acceptable. I've thought about getting a TK70, but the 3XML Hydras put out way more light, more floody but they are only 2D mag size compared to the 16 inch TK70.
This VPT 5700k is my 4th SST-90 Lambda light and it is by far the brightest of any light that I have owned. The other SST-90 VaraPower lights are the 6500k domed and another Dedomed and a 5700 Dome intact. The 6500k lights do put out more measurable light, but to me they are not as bright. I'm not sure what color temp the SR90 uses, but usually they uses the highest output so prob the 6500k.
I think others that own one of these things would agree that after you have used one of these everything else seems weak. Not to mention the 30 or so power settings so it is useable without messing up night vision.
I tested the VPT Dedome 6500k with 4x Powerex 5000mAh C cells. It started at 199,980 lux. I know it's a little down on my first 7 tests which showed 200,000 lux. I used a stop watch and ran it on maximum output for 12 minutes. The new aluminium heat-sink really makes a difference. The lux after 12 minutes was 144,600 lux. I could have gone on longer, but I wanted to preform a test test with the 3xD Powerex 22,000mAh. I ran this for 8 minutes and it was only warm.
Some lux readings for a few of my other lights.
VPT Dedome 6500k 4xC cells 200,000 lux
VPT Dedome 6500k 3xD cells 138,210 lux
Wolfeyes 24w Boxer HID 83,140 lux
Wolfeyes 10w Boxer HID 69,800 lux
Dereelight DBS-T EZ900 R2 2MT-S, 64,300 lux
Deft EDC 39,100 lux
Deft EDC LR 50,300 lux
Crelant 7G5 56,800 lux
Olight M3X 55,200 lux
Eagletac M3C4 XM-L 41,000 lux
Olight SR92 44,310 lux
I have a Canon EPS 5D mark II, but have the artistic talent of a iPhone 4S switched off. Plus my digital multimeter is no longer working. I will have to buy another one along with a tripod and ask friends for advice on photography techniques.
I will try to make time to preform some detailed tests, as my long awaited Crelant 7G5 V2 is still on transit to me.
Last edited by BLUE LED; 02-19-2012 at 08:06 AM.
Out of curiosity, what type of light meter are you using?
here, 4500k SST-90s are in fact avalaible in Bin N . I'm thinking of getting one during the next few months .
By the way has anyone found a diffusor for the turbo?
Last edited by The_Driver; 02-19-2012 at 04:00 PM.
Of course the taking of lux readings needn't be restricted to just the area within the hotspot. You could just as easily measure the intensity of the spill portion of the beam by aiming the hotspot slightly away from the lightmeter. But nine times out of ten, flashaholics want that hotspot centered on the light meter so as to be able to estimate the potential throw of the light.
The lumen rating, on the other hand, is simply a cumulative measurement of the total amount of light that a flashlight (or in some cases its emitter) is putting out in all directions. A specialized sphere is the preferred device for measuring lumens because it, unlike a lightmeter, is capable of recording luminous intensity at many points simultaneously, effectively capturing and measuring all the photons that are being emitted out the end of the flashlight.
Thus it is, that through the use of larger reflectors, optics, aspherical lenses, etc., you can easily have a situation in which one light with a tightly focused beam and high lux rating is easily able to out throw another light producing many more lumens, but with a less focused beam.
Take the example of a mini maglite. If I turn it on and adjust the reflector for the tightest beam, I could shine that hotspot on a lightmeter several feet away and maybe get a lux reading of 1000 cd (an estimate made strictly for illustrative purposes). Now, if I completely unscrew and remove the head of the flashlight using it in candle mode, I may only get a max lux reading of 50 cd at the same distance. In both instances we have the exact same batteries powering the exact same bulb putting out exactly the same amount of emitter lumens. But the luminous intensity is drastically reduced in the second instance because there is no reflector to focus the light energy.
Last edited by Bronco; 02-20-2012 at 09:02 AM.
Very nice numbers and good info. Thanks.
I used to use the AEMC CA817 lux meter and take my readings at 5M and calculate back to 1M. For the bigger lights I think 10M may give better numbers.
When I had the DEFT FTP, I got 60K lux out of it when I actually measured at 1M. When I measured at 5M and did the calculation to 1M it was 98K lux. I think I needed to measure at 15M and calcualte back to 1M to get the 120K lux others got. I just ran out of space.
My DEFT EDC got me 35K lux
You have an Aluminum Heatsink on that VARAPower?
I show almost linear OTF lumens with copper to LED bonding but with aluminum its not so.
Last edited by bigchelis; 02-20-2012 at 12:47 PM.
Surefire 6P with Malkoff M60 simple, bright, efficient.