The SureFire P2X-B "Fury" 500lu flashlight thread

[kyhunter1]

Purchased mine mid Jan. Glass lens. #A69364

[Solscud007]

So brianna has been waiting ever so impatiently for my results. The results are from my own impressions. The area I tested is just outside my apartment complex. In a parking lot with quite a lot of ambient light. I know, from Wednesday night, I was at my shooting club meeting and from the meeting room balcony, looking out at the parking lot, the back of the parking lot is about 200 yds. The Fury lit up the back wall and if there were people there, I would be able to see their silhouette.

Now back to my test yesterday. The E1B hotspot is very tight and focused. The Fury has a hot spot but a LOT more corona surrounding it. The fury seems to light up more at the same distance than the E1B. Since the fury has so much light, it feels like it is almost a wall of light screaming out of that thing. Oh and this is testing both on high.

[jh333233]

The way i ask for comparison, lux, beamshot, etc.
Would be patient and friendly like: Would anyone please offer XXXXX of XXX light, if no one replies, i just let the post sinks
Keep biting the others doesnt mean you will get what you want, you would only annoy them, another bump won't bloom a data

In this case, if that SOB is acting like a mainlander(i wont say chinese cuz another SOB will come and be picky)
Then just ignore him and ask him to buy both light so that he can do whatever he wanted

Back on topic
Fury has 10k lux(if i remember) while with Lx2 optics + 200lm = 10k lux too
E1b = same optic as LX2butless lumen(110)
So i assume E1b will have a dimmer and tighter hotspot

[DM51]

Two posts have been removed. Keep the squabbling off the board, please.

[Owen]

Has anybody gotten to the emitter on these? I know the head's glued. That doesn't mean much.
May order one, regardless. With the <4V Vfs I've seen listed for XM-Ls, I wouldn't have a problem running R123s-it takes CR123As, so has to be a buck.
Looks like <25% less runtime for ~250% output over an E2DL on high with similar lux...nice.

[jh333233]

i can check tonight. I just got my freebie Fury from SureFire. The Wife's is probably waiting for her on her desk at work. She is away on business until Feb 20. But we both won Furys from SF.

Explain please? How come they became so generous

[jh333233]

Has anybody gotten to the emitter on these? I know the head's glued. That doesn't mean much.
May order one, regardless. With the <4V Vfs I've seen listed for XM-Ls, I wouldn't have a problem running R123s-it takes CR123As, so has to be a buck.
Looks like <25% less runtime for ~250% output over an E2DL on high with similar lux...nice.

Previously mentioned (Despite of the long-long-long thread)
XM-L + buck driver

Similar lux, but bigger hotspot
Might be greedy but for this pocket-rocket, i expect a tighter beam profile

Sentence below is slightly irrelevant
Subjectively: I prefer a XP-G @450lm for tight hotspot and higher lux, XM-L couldnt focus nicely into tight hotspot in small reflector in fury
Resulting in XP-G+D26 beam profile

[Solscud007]

Explain please? How come they became so generous

SureFire on Facebook, posted a "Holiday Light Display Photo Contest" Only a few people entered. I entered a picture. See thread link . . . http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...-from-SureFire!

[Owen]

I'm talking about removing the head to access and replace the emitter.

[Solscud007]

Anyone notice that the clicky is a little bit too deep? I have to really push the switch down 98% down to get it to click. Compared to my G2X pro, which is much easier to click on.

[jh333233]

I'm talking about removing the head to access and replace the emitter.

Theoretically (Dont know if i made any mistake, please correct if any occurs)
1. Boil the head/ heat the head-body junction to kill the threadlock
2. Unscrew the parts
3. Unscrew bezel ring and remove reflector and window
4. Now the guts is exposed, expected to see the emitter with screws and circuit board below

[youreacrab]

Let's talk about the user interface on these P2Xs. I have two P2Xs on hand, and each seemingly have two different programmings.

1) First click/press: low. Release and click/press within <1 second: hi. Release and click/press within <1 second: low.
2) First click/press: low. Release and click/press within ~3 seconds: hi. Release and click/press within ~3 seconds: hi.

I contacted Surefire and was told light 1 is defective.

Light 1 intrigues me because it makes getting to hi mode very deliberate, which is advantageous when 500 lumens would be absolutely blinding when you were expecting 15 (indoors, low ambient light).

Light 2 intrigues me because it allows "tactical" use of the hi mode by refusing to step down into low mode if you need to do a quick on-off-on-off sequence.

[Solscud007]

Hmm. Mine switches to high as fast as i can double tap the switch. So less than a second. Regardless of clicking. the click is merely a physical action. The activation of the head is where the switching occurs not the tailcap. The person you talked to doenst know what they are talking about.

[Hitthespot]

Anyone notice that the clicky is a little bit too deep? I have to really push the switch down 98% down to get it to click. Compared to my G2X pro, which is much easier to click on.

Mine does this also, but I don't find it a problem, I just have to re-grip the light sometimes to click it on.

[esfan]

Regarding cleaning the lens, what I did is to using some light detergent (ICE carwash which is what I used lol) and softly rubbing the lens for several time with finger, and rinse it off with slow flowing water, and in this way I haven't got any noticeable scratches for a while. Although the lens is so soft that mounting it onto the bike and the wind could make tiny scratches by the sand it carries. I clean the lens that way every other week, and I think this could be a good way for preventing scratches onto the polycarbonate.

[SuperTrouper]

Previously mentioned (Despite of the long-long-long thread)XM-L + buck driverSimilar lux, but bigger hotspotMight be greedy but for this pocket-rocket, i expect a tighter beam profileSentence below is slightly irrelevantSubjectively: I prefer a XP-G @450lm for tight hotspot and higher lux, XM-L couldnt focus nicely into tight hotspot in small reflector in furyResulting in XP-G+D26 beam profile

Have you ever seen an XP-G being driven hard enough to deliver 450lm? As I understood things, the XP-G was maxed out in the mid 300lm range at 1.5A, I don't believe it's capable of 450lm as a single emitter.

[jh333233]

Have you ever seen an XP-G being driven hard enough to deliver 450lm? As I understood things, the XP-G was maxed out in the mid 300lm range at 1.5A, I don't believe it's capable of 450lm as a single emitter.

XP-G is capable of delivering 493lm with outdated tech.
With quality brass base, you can do so
Despite an old reply, ive dug it out

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...Products/page9 #251
Someone insisted XP-G can go 500lm

By "Funder"

Secondly, is it possible to make 500lm light with XP-G? It is tough but possible.
Currently the best available (although very limited) XP-G Bin is S3, which is ~ 524-564lm @ 1.5A. Manufacturer like Surefire has a close relationship with Cree and other LED supplier, so they can get the very premium Bin before us. Lets remind 4sevens released S3 lights much earlier before the S3 bin is listed in the Cree official documents.

And the LX2U will not available very soon, so surefire can wait for the availability of better LEDs (or they can edit their claims in the catalog ).

Thirdly, Surefire give some hints in the catalog. They mentioned L2X ultra and X300 Ultra has some specially selected LED which has yellowish green tints. This fits what we saw in current very premium Bin Cree LEDs. We know P2X fury is powered by XML, it is 500lm and 9400cd. In 2012 catalog Surefire has revealed some similar-sized lights: UM2, ZM2 and DM2. These three has a larger bezel than LX2 ultra (37mm vs 29mm). If LX2 ultra use same LEDs (XML), then UM2, ZM2 and DM2 should outthrow LX2U because they have larger TIR lens. However, UM2, ZM2 and DM2 only have 9700cds. This indicates LX2U utilize some different LED which has a higher luminance when giving 500lm luminous flux.

[seattlite]

Theoretically (Dont know if i made any mistake, please correct if any occurs)
1. Boil the head/ heat the head-body junction to kill the threadlock
2. Unscrew the parts
3. Unscrew bezel ring and remove reflector and window
4. Now the guts is exposed, expected to see the emitter with screws and circuit board below

If one is able to remove the head, is the head SF C/P series compatible?

[seattlite]

Has anybody gotten to the emitter on these? I know the head's glued. That doesn't mean much.
May order one, regardless. With the <4V Vfs I've seen listed for XM-Ls, I wouldn't have a problem running R123s-it takes CR123As, so has to be a buck.
Looks like <25% less runtime for ~250% output over an E2DL on high with similar lux...nice.

So you are saying that the 8.4V from 2xRCR123's will be bucked? So no frying of LED nor circuit?

[Helmut.G]

If one is able to remove the head, is the head SF C/P series compatible?

no.

[dano]

The head on my Fury wasn't cemented, so I can unscrew it.

I really like this light, but still wish it was one mode.

-dan

[kyhunter1]

With your head being loose, swap the driver if possible and you can have a single mode.

The head on my Fury wasn't cemented, so I can unscrew it.

I really like this light, but still wish it was one mode.

-dan

[Owen]

So you are saying that the 8.4V from 2xRCR123's will be bucked? So no frying of LED nor circuit?

I'll throw in a "do so at your own risk", but that's my opinion. How many current regulating buck circuits have we heard of with an upper limit of 6V?
There was much discussion here in the past about running the E2DL on R123s, and warnings against it. Some people insisted that doing so would fry the emitter or damage the circuit, but the bottom line is that SF doesn't publicize the particulars of their circuits. I've been going through a pair or more of R123s per night, 5 nights per week, for a couple of years in an E2DL, and personally wouldn't hesitate to try running the P2X-B with them.

[Hitthespot]

Well, Against my better judgement I placed two R123's in the Fury and turned it on. Both the high and the low appear to function correctly and nothing went boom. I only left it on high for around 10 seconds. Guess I'm still a little scared. LOL.

Bill

[seattlite]

Well, Against my better judgement I placed two R123's in the Fury and turned it on. Both the high and the low appear to function correctly and nothing went boom. I only left it on high for around 10 seconds. Guess I'm still a little scared. LOL.

Bill

NICE!! Thank you for the confirmation. Nice to see that we have another battery option!

[MT7]

Hey everyone,
Are anybody know what's the Beam range of the SureFire P2X ''Fury''?
and another question-which flashlight is better-the SureFire ''Fury'' or the Led Lenser X14? (Luminous flux,beam range...)
thanks advance =)

[Stainz]

My Fury has been in use for three weeks today. Fresh S-F CR123A cells read 3.25V on my el-cheapo (Actually - free!) Harbor Freight DMM. My Fury's are at 3.01V now. My Olight M21 Warrior got fresh cells the day I started using the Fury. They are at 2.91V -close to exhausted. I didn't think I had used it more than the Fury - which seems noticeably brighter in the central spot on high than the M21. The M21 seems cooler - the Fury warmer - in color tint. The central spots are similar, with the spill rim being decidedly larger from the Fury - really a 'wall of light'. On low, my Fury and 6PX Pro are similar - both less defined than my old E1B's low. The E1B is my EDC - it's grown some use wear. The Fury, and mine is a s/n A73XYZ, has the same fingernail thump sounds as the E1B, E2DL, 6P LED, etc, glass lens - not the 6PX Pro's plastic sound, is a keeper... still not so fond of the M21. As I said, I did pay for the 'luxury' of walking out the door of a local store with my Fury... with it's glass lens... and me less $152!

My criticism... I'd prefer a tail-stander, even if it is nose-heavy. I got a replacement tailcap years ago for my then new belt/clip rider E2DL after it fell from my belt to the concrete sidewalk on it's first outing, mangling a serration. S-F sent me a replacement - I filed/sanded the original a bit and used it on my E1b Backup - wow - that needs to be a new version of the Backup. Low power on it's tail on the lavatory in the middle of the night, it lights up the room on low. Also worked well as a room light whe the power was knocked out last month (Tornado damage.). I can't imagine the Fury on a tailcap - on high! Maybe just an aftermarket 'foot'?

Stainz

[kyhunter1]

It's beam throws pretty good out to about a 100-150 yards. It will illuminate further. Dont know anything about the Led Lenser stuff.

Hey everyone,
Are anybody know what's the Beam range of the SureFire P2X ''Fury''?
and another question-which flashlight is better-the SureFire ''Fury'' or the Led Lenser X14? (Luminous flux,beam range...)
thanks advance =)

[MT7]

It's beam throws pretty good out to about a 100-150 yards. It will illuminate further. Dont know anything about the Led Lenser stuff.

Are you sure? my Led Lenser MT7 have only 200 lumens and it's beam throws pretty good out about 250 meters....
and are anybody knows which flashlight is better-SureFire P2X ''Fury'' or the Led Lenser X14?

[dmz]

Fury P2X-B is the best bang for the buck from SF.

Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B? Or come out with different variants such as a tactical version?
Will SF put a glass lens on it? How about a smooth reflector?

http://www.surefire.com/P2X-B-BK