Actually, my bedside haiku batteries fall under the 'other' category because I took the McClicky 2xAA from my Makai and switched it with the haiku. Now it runs with two eneloop AA and I find it easier to carry around the house. It also helped the makai since the balance was really head heavy with the 2xAA. My other haiku runs on surefire primaries.
Dare to reach out your hand into the darkness, to pull another hand into the light -- Norman B. Rice
I had to crack the light to see what was in there. I thought it would be an IMR, but it was a primary.
I voted Primary - Other as I have been using Rayovac CR123s lately and been very happy with the price to performance I am achieving.
I put two AW RCR123s on my Lighthound order today, along with some primaries. I am eager to try the li-ions and see how they do. Figure I can shove them in my Haiku and Mule since those are my EDCs and see the most use. Primaries for all the lights that only get occasional usage. Gotta love 10 yr shelf lives.
Got my AW RCR123s in today. Forgot that 16340s are too short for my Pila IBC even with the provided spacers. Cut down some bolts and ground them nice and smooth to use as spacers and charged those babies up!
Now they are in my Haiku and Mule EDC combo, and I gotta say they really run nicely. The shifts are very crisp with the extra power. Now I have two McGs on li-ions and two on primaries. I'm interested to see what kind of run-time I get. I'll probably just run them till the mode changes get wonky and then charge them. I read that the increased resistance of the bolt spacers decreases charged capacity of the cells so runtime can suffer a bit. I think I had a primary in my Haiku for 3 months, so even if now I go to charging every couple weeks or once a month, that's really not that big of a deal. Yay Guilt Free Lumens!
Some of the battery nomenclature is very confusing to a neophyte. Are these batteries: AW Orange 16340 3.7v 550 mAh LiMN rechargeable battery equivalent to the black label AW 16340 batteries, and as safe to use?
Thank you for this thread. I've got my first McGizmo, which will be a Haiku, in transit and I found this information very helpful!
Primaries only. I've been using the primary 123 batteries for what must be a couple decades now, mostly with an early incan Surefire E2D. My experience from that use is that these batteries last a very long time. Took me a couple of years to go through a Surefire package of 12. With the dog and using flashlights in my photography, I'm using flashlights a lot more these days, so, went ahead and got a 50 count box of Duracells from Battery Junction at a good price. This should be good for at least a year or more.
The other half of using primaries is a good battery tester. Been using the ZTS MBT-1 that tests every type of battery that I have; even coin cells and all types of lithiums.
I've used rechargeable's in the past, mostly AA's for strobes, where capacity was a critical issue. But, it took significant, time, energy, money to get it done right. Unless that extra capacity is a critical issue, rechargeable batteries just aren't worth it, IMO. And, nobody can deny the safety issues... just ask Boeing.
Believe I have read that Don doesn't use rechargeable batteries either. Can't recall off-hand why not.
However recently I have taken the plunge and do use RCR123's in the few lights I do use often and carry. I use protected cells as the converters in my lights do not have a low voltage shut off. My laptops, cameras and phones all use Li-Ion batteries and I can't imagine switching to a primary cell even if it were available. For an every day use device a rechargeable battery makes a lot of sense, IMHO. For a backup or emergency device that sits until such time it is needed, I think a good, not activated, primary cell is the best choice.
The most interesting implementation of Lithium batteries that I have seen is with the high end Nikon cameras: eg D700/D4. When checking the battery, it reports the percent charge, the number of shots taken since the last charge, plus the "age" of the battery. The age is rated from 0 to 4. Years or what, can't recall. But this is the type of information needed by a pro when using this type of battery. Not just the percentage charge, but the history of the battery, too. Is this battery reaching it's estimated end-of-life? With primaries, it's possible to go out with a new set with 100% confidence that they'll work. With rechargeables, at the beginning everything should be fine but how about some years down the road and hundreds of charges? Is there a way of determining the "health" of an old rechargeable? What is the expected life span of these rechargeables? Is the life span solely determined by the number of charging cycles or is there a shelf life?
Afaik the Nikon battery "age" is just encoded in the battery chip. Those "smart" batteries have a few more pins than just a positive and a negative side.
It would be a good practice to keep some sort of date on your batteries though. Or any form of identification if you have a lot.
I agree with Don on the usage; I try not too have too many different Li-Ion rechargeable because some of them are bound to be forgotten in a closet somewhere. Only lights that I edc (and/or use, not necessarily related) frequently are allowed to have a lithium ion inside them. The rest would be empty or using lithium primaries.
Don. I assume that both your present 3S and 6V LE will also take IMR batteries though they do not have a low voltage shut off. Is my assumption correct?
I use mainly rcr123 until recently a friend explained that using IMR is better. According to his explanation, the chemistry on an IMR is deem to be safer and less susceptible to venting.
Plus with its ability to serve up the current draw, it actually gives better runtime despite the lower mah rating.
It is supposed to have less sag.
In a single cell setup, I think that the safety advantages of a protection circuit (for ICR) likely trump IMR's somewhat greater thermal stability (for most reasonable use environments), in this particular situation (driver with moderate current draw).
... and for a two cell (series) setup, using unprotected rechargeable batteries would make me especially concerned ...
I consider many of you to be the experts on the RCR123 and the various chemistries now available. I purchased a few of the AW protected cells in the RCR123, 18650 and 14500 sizes and know very little about them. The actual compatibility with my lights is a function of size and voltage but no protection is offered the battery by virtue of being monitored by the converters.
Perhaps IMR is more suitable for high voltage devices. I have had no problems with RCR123 with Don's LE thus far. Never tried an IMR on them.
Sorry for digging up an old thread, but do you guys have recommended AW batteries/chargers for the McGizmo Haiku XM-L in 6V?
Thanks, Ben! Will keep it in mind
I'll probably be running primaries in mine, for the continence.
Wow, didn't know there would be twice the run time. That's a big difference. And I just caught my love typo. Continence! Hahaha. You know what I mean.
Thanks for the info!
The CR123 at 3.2 v have 1500mA of juice whilst the RCR123 / 16340 at 4.2volts only have 750mA. Depending on your charger maybe even less.
Though there is a voltage difference, as a ballpark, lets call it just under double the runtime. Good choice.
I knew there was the voltage difference which made them better for super high output (Like the tri-edc from Mac) but I didn't know there was such the difference in mah. I'm already learning a lot!
But the variance will be small. Something like 550mAh and 650mAh.
Although the primary looked like it has got double the juice but you will not get exactly double the runtime due to the difference in power draw at the 2 different voltages.